In all directions I saw magnificent aisles8, and altars with burning incense9. Magnificent pictures representing all reverend worth, from the “Son of Man,” to saints of France. Golden knobs with inscriptions10 thereon, adorned11 the footsteps of every visitor thereof, denoting the downwardness of kings who had once ruled nations. Whilst standing there awestruck with departed worth, I gazed downward with a submissive heart, when lo! I stood upon the coffin of a king! I quickly changed my position, but stepped upon a queen. The valet was relating to me the many different opinions the people had about stepping on noted12 personages, and how unnecessary it was to take notice of such things as they were dead, when I got disgusted at his ignorance, and stepped from a Queen to a Princess.
To describe this gorgeously furnished sanctum, it is enough to say, that all the brilliant artists of this scientific people have been engaged for hundreds of years in its decoration. Not only employed by the coffers of the Church of France, but by the throne that upheld numerous kings, as well as the wish of the whole populace of France, and the spoils of other nations. Hundreds of people from different parts of the world visit it every day, and all leave a franc or two. Thousands of Parisians visit it every day, and they make no mark of decay. It stands a living monument of Church and State.
Drive me to the national assembly, I said to the coachman. In ten minutes I was going up the gallery. Before I went in, the valet went to a member’s coachman, and gave him a franc, and he gave in return a ticket to the gallery. Each member is allowed so many gallery tickets, and if he fails in giving them out, he makes his servants presents of them, and they sell them.
They were debating republican principles. Louis Napoleon was then President of the Republic, and on the door of every building and gate of France were these words in legible letters, “Liberte Eqalite Fraternite.” Louis Napoleon was not there that day, and they seemed to have a good time, like mice when the cat is away. The most incomprehensible part of their proceeding13 was, sometimes two would be speaking at once, regardless of the chair. The speaker hammered away furiously, but it was hard to tell, unless you knew, whether he was beating up a revival14 or a retreat from destruction; as they cooled off their debative heat, there was always twenty or thirty ready to throw agitating15 fuel in the furnace. As they would cool down a whiff, mushroom-like risings, would be perceptible in four or five different parts of the spacious16 hall. I could make nothing out of what was going on, save willingness to talk instead of listening, and I left. One handsome and intelligent looking gentleman descended17 at the same time, which I learned to be the correspondent of the New York Tribune. I then took a curve like tour back, across the Seine, by the Tuillieries, Luxomburg, and back to the same part of the Boulevards, which was more crowded with fashion, than when I passed along in the forenoon, and went home. Night came on, and with it, the gayest time of Paris. The valet said I must go to Jardin mabeille, (a ball), I rode there. This is a nightly ball, but there was no less than fifty vehicles of different comforts, which showed that a great many foreigners were there, because Parisians generally prefer promenading19 when going to such a feast of pleasure. I paid two francs and went in.
It was a garden about a square block in size. In all parts of it was shrubbery of the most fragrant20 odors. There was an immense number of little walks, with neat rustic21 seats for lovers to caress22 in, from the disinterested23 eye; and on my first preambulation, I got lost, and intruded24 more than was polite, but I did not know the importance of this discretion25, until I perilously26 saw the danger. Had I gone on without stopping, I would have led myself to the orchestra, where and when I could have taken part in the amusement to the approbation27 of all present. When I discovered that I did not know what I was about, I stopped quickly and looked scrutinizingly around those snug28 little bowers29. All in a minute out came a “bower lover,” as furious as a cat. I asked him “where the ball was;” he discovered that I was no Frenchman, and could not have meant intrusion; he directed me to go straight ahead, and I left him in his bliss30.
Like a round pigeon house on the end of pole, I pronounce the orchestra. A stair ran up to the pigeon house from the platform round the great pole, or post that supported it. A small enclosure was under the orchestra and occasionally the band would descend18 to the platform to play. Round this orchestra they danced. The spectators seemed to be exclusively foreigners; they made a ring around the gay lotharios as unbroken as the one they made around the orchestra. The bassy and fluty melodious31 Band, discoursed32 the sweetest waltz that ever tickled33 my admiration34. Off they glided35 like a scared serpent, winding36 their curvy way as natural as if they were taking their chances. There they come! But there is some still going in the ranks, and there is still a vacancy37. Twice they have made the circuit, and the hoop38 is complete. Now to me it is all dizziness, and it all looked to me as a moving body of muses39 from times of yore. Occasionally my eye would cling to a couple for an instant, but this was occasioned by the contrast between a large, fat, and heavy gentleman, that had become a troublesome neighbor to all that chose to get in his way. Whenever any of the lighter40 footed would discover their close proximity41 to his Appollo pedestals, like a shooting star they would flit away, and leave him monarch42 of all he surveyed.
I wish to describe a few of the most conspicuous43, but I will wait for a quadrille, where I can get them to take their places in description.
The name of my valet de place is Oscar.
“Oscar, what nation does that puny44 looking, red-skinned man belong to?” “A Maltese,” said he, as if he never would stop sounding the ese, but he added the “I believe.” I afterwards found out that he was some of the Canary Island’s stock; but the best of the stock. A beautiful French girl held him by the hind45 part of his coat with her left hand, whilst she held with her right his hand, lest he might go off in his glee, “half shot.” She was also afraid that some interested lady might take better care of him than herself. He was fashionably dressed, and in Paris, as a nabob, His actions represented some rich man’s foolish son.
I swear by my father’s head, I see a live Turk! Turban! sack hanging between his legs, more empty than Falstaff’s! one of the genuine breed that followed Saladin to the plains of Palestine and stood before Richard’s battle-axe with his scimitar! one of the head choppers of Christians46! Perhaps the next will be the amiable47 countenance48 of “Blue Beard.” The old Turk and his beard is trying to dance, but his bag won’t let him. He is let down, and goes off the track. He is now mixing some oakum with tobacco. Now he is looking on, like a poor boy at a frolic—yes! he would if he could. I am sure his first duty to-morrow will be to hunt a mosque49 and give up dancing. He is leaving and trying to get his money back.
I walked round on the opposite side, and saw several other incomprehensibles. “What tall, fine looking, yellow skinned man is that, Oscar, with that tall lady standing looking on?” “That, sir,” said he, “is a very rich quadroon from Louisiana, I believe New Orleans. He lives at No. 4, Boulevard Possoniere, when he is in town, but he has his country residence nine miles in the country. He has a very handsome French lady for a wife, and it is said he left New Orleans on account of their prejudice to color. He is a very popular man here, and is said to be worth $150,000.” Just then I saw Mr. Holbrook, of the New Orleans Picayune, and Mr. Fellowes of the firm of Fellowes & Co., step up to this man and shake him warmly by the hand, and said, “Mr. Cordevoille, don’t you know me? I patronized your tailor’s shop five or six years.” Cordevoille had been the largest tailorizer in the South, and accumulated a large fortune, and sold out to his partner, Mr. Lacroix, who still is carrying on the firm under the name and style of Cordevoille & Lacroix. Mr. Cordevoille was looking the very picture of a gentleman; he seemed to be a great object of respect to those that spoke50 to the lady he was conversing51 with in the French tongue. He reminded me more of Prince Albert in his manners than any other person around. Had his face not been pock marked, he would have conveyed a conception of an inferior Appollo; his tout52 ensemble53 had as many brilliant cuts of a true gentleman’s conduct, as the single diamond he wore. After some enquiry about New Orleans, he invited some American gentlemen to his country seat; it was to be on the following day, and they being high toned gentlemen of sense, they accepted, not so much for pleasure and information, as for giving Mr. Cordevoille to understand that they understood the duty of gentlemen; no doubt they felt that if they refused, Mr. Cordevoille might feel the weight of such a refusal. They agreed also to stay all night, which invitation had been extended by Mr. Cordevoille. Lest it be a censure54 on these gentlemen, I refrain from going any further with a subject so delicate.
I now walked under the roof of a very extensive hall; in it was all kinds of refreshments55. All one side of the hall was a door, so that when the crowd in the garden was likely to be overtaken by a shower, dancing went on in there. Immense crowds were seated about at tables smoking, and discussing politics, but not one gentleman had his foot on the table, except an American quietly seated in one corner in a profound soliloquy. He was chewing tobacco. I did’nt stop to see where he spit, for fear he might claim nationality. I learned that several of the quietly seated, were members of the National Assembly. It was now getting late, and gentlemen that had pretty mates were going through the gates in compact succession. Why gentlemen with pretty mates could not stay to the last was a mystery to me. But to solve that mystery I followed the crowd, and discovered that the nearer they got home, the more affectionate they got.
The most of these couples would stop at the first cafe and call for their tass du coffee and vere d’eau de vie (cup of coffee and glass of brandy). They would set the brandy on fire and burn the spirits out, and then pour it into the coffee. As soon as they began to feel the effects of this pleasant nourishment56, they would move again for home.
At 11 o’clock at night carriages were running in all directions from Balls, Theatres, Operas, Museums, Concerts, Soirees, Dancing Schools, and more amusements than could be named in one article.
I went to the hotel, seeking my own amusement. I could not conjecture57 a more comfortable place than the house I roomed at, after seeing all this night’s bustle58. Even if I could not find my own room, I was in the house of acquaintances.
I went to the room of an acquaintance, and talked and lingered in agreeable conversation and amusement until near day. I approached my own chamber59, and found that whilst I was out helping60 to make a city of dissipators, Elvereta had been to my room and arranged my wardrobe comme foi. This ends my “first night in Paris.”
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1
reined
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| 勒缰绳使（马）停步( rein的过去式和过去分词 )； 驾驭； 严格控制； 加强管理 | |
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peal
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| n.钟声；v.鸣响 | |
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3
sonorous
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| adj.响亮的，回响的；adv.圆润低沉地；感人地；n.感人，堂皇 | |
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4
flinch
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| v.畏缩，退缩 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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8
aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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9
incense
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| v.激怒；n.香，焚香时的烟，香气 | |
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10
inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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11
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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13
proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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14
revival
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| n.复兴，复苏，（精力、活力等的）重振 | |
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15
agitating
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| 搅动( agitate的现在分词 )； 激怒； 使焦虑不安； （尤指为法律、社会状况的改变而）激烈争论 | |
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16
spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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17
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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18
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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19
promenading
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| v.兜风( promenade的现在分词 ) | |
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20
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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21
rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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22
caress
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| vt./n.爱抚，抚摸 | |
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23
disinterested
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| adj.不关心的，不感兴趣的 | |
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24
intruded
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| n.侵入的，推进的v.侵入，侵扰，打扰( intrude的过去式和过去分词 )；把…强加于 | |
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discretion
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| n.谨慎；随意处理 | |
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perilously
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| adv.充满危险地，危机四伏地 | |
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approbation
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| n.称赞；认可 | |
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28
snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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29
bowers
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| n.（女子的）卧室( bower的名词复数 )；船首锚；阴凉处；鞠躬的人 | |
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30
bliss
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| n.狂喜，福佑，天赐的福 | |
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31
melodious
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| adj.旋律美妙的，调子优美的，音乐性的 | |
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32
discoursed
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| 演说（discourse的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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33
tickled
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| （使）发痒( tickle的过去式和过去分词 )； （使）愉快，逗乐 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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35
glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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36
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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37
vacancy
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| n.（旅馆的）空位，空房，（职务的）空缺 | |
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38
hoop
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| n.（篮球）篮圈，篮 | |
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39
muses
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| v.沉思，冥想( muse的第三人称单数 )；沉思自语说（某事） | |
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40
lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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41
proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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42
monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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43
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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44
puny
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| adj.微不足道的，弱小的 | |
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45
hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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46
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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47
amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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48
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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49
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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50
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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51
conversing
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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52
tout
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| v.推销，招徕；兜售；吹捧，劝诱 | |
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53
ensemble
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| n.合奏(唱)组；全套服装；整体，总效果 | |
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54
censure
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| v./n.责备；非难；责难 | |
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55
refreshments
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| n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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56
nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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57
conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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58
bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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59
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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60
helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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