The streets are crowded with soldiers, as in Paris, and the ladies go about the streets holding up their dresses just the right height to attract attention.
The rain is over, and there is no more attraction in the spicy5 town of Strasborg, so I am going to Baden Baden, the spiciest6 gambling7 place in Europe. In the Park is a great large building in the shape of a country stable, but full of splendor8, called a Casino or conversation room, and this conspicuous9 appellation10 is conspicuously11 written on the front of the building. In this open hall—open to all—is gambling hours between each meal. The great gambling table is in the centre with numerous stools, such as are to be found in Stuarts, or any other fashionable Dry Goods store in America. On these stools are all classes of society that like excitement—dukes, earls, marquises, barons12, knights13, valets, and even liveried coachmen, betting from 5 francs to 10,000 francs. While I was in the Casino the Prince of Prussia broke the bank. Only thirty thousand francs is allowed in the Bank at once, and if broken no more business or amusement goes on that day in that Cassino; but there are others dealing14 on the same platform.
It is quite amusing to see the anxiety written on the brow of players, and to see the expression of disinterested15 persons, which we in America term “stuck on the game.” I have seen more excruciating pain come from an outsider by the loss of some pile of gold, than I ever saw come from the expression of the loser. Here comes a Count who has been betting and losing on another bank, and he came to change his luck. He threw down his last thousand and it won; he let it all stand on the red, and this time it all goes into the bank. He exclaims, “that’s my luck.” Then the outsiders would cast an eye of pity on him, and say, he might have known that he would lose it, when the very reason they were not betting, was, they were broke on the same bank perhaps a week ago. I see six beautiful noble ladies betting, with their money snugly16 piled up before them. Their bets generally range from twenty to one hundred francs. But the most amusing part of this crowd’s entertainment is, the airs that the money scampers17 put on. If a lady or gentleman should win, he pays it with an air of nonchalence and great pleasure; but if he wins, which he is sure to do in the end, he looks very melancholy18, as if it were the result of accident, and in his opinion it was very vulgar for the bank to win. I put down a five franc piece, it won; I let the ten stand, it won; I let the twenty stand, it won; I moved it, and it lost, and I quit. He attempted to console me by saying I ought to have let it stand where it was, “what do you bet on now sir,” said he; I don’t bet any more said I, I have already lost five francs. He took me to be a green Yankee and said no more to me. Another amusing sight was there; it was two more broken American youths, who said they were waiting for Mr. Peabody to forward them money, and was “sound on the borry.” I did’nt pride myself much here on my nationality, lest I would have some unprofitable fame. One of them owed two weeks’ board in the British Hotel. He was mighty19 polite when he met me in company, and placed me under the truly painful necessity of being introduced to some person of note whom he had himself been a bore upon. He asked me if I was acquainted with the Grand Duke, at the same time looking over the heads of the players, as if he would call him if he could only get his eye on him. Then he insisted on my going down to the other Bank, where the chances were better, and where the Grand Duke of Baden would most likely be. I declined all invitations, and got a carriage and went out of town to see the ruins of the Erhreinstein Castle.
Having returned and paid my bill, I left this little German town to go to Heidelburg, where once dwelled a good Castilian, Frederick the 1st, of the Palatinate.
James lived between Baden Baden and Heidelberg two or three years, and wrote the two following novels, which gives a better history of these, the Castles of Heidelberg and Erhreinstein, than any other history gives or can be obtained at present. He lived at Carlsruth. The Grand Duke lives at Baden Baden, and Carlsruth, and Heidelberg, and he is here now at Heidelberg, and was here when my American friend was hunting him in the Casino.
Tilly, the great French general, blew up the front side of this castle in 1620, since which all its magnificence has been known but as tradition. The picture gallery still remains20 perfect, that is to say, some wings of it. There is many talented artists now grouped about in its rural halls, for the grass has grown up in them, taking copies of these splendid pictures. The city of Heidelberg which this castle overlooks, is quite a large city for a German interior town. I was told by my landlord that its population was upwards21 of 60,000. The cellar of the old ruins still contains its wine casks. I saw one cask or vat22 said to hold 60,000 bottles of wine. Ten men can dine round a King Arthur’s round table on its head. In the cellar is the statue of one of King Frederick’s fools, with one side of his face painted green and one half of his hair red, whilst the other is not. He drank eighteen bottles of wine each day and lived one hundred years. Father Matthew never heard of that juice of such admirable longevity23, or it would have clapped the cap on his spouting24 eloquence25. German towns are spicy towns. Outside of the city, just across the Necker, is to be two duels26 to-day with short swords, and they fight duels on that duelling ground every day, either students or other citizens. It is considered a small gladiatorial arena27. The Grand Duke is about to leave for Carlsruth, and the people are parading with great glee. Children women and men are crowding the gates in solid batallions; you would think old Zack had come to town.
I am dizzy with reflections of these fast little towns of Germany. As I whirl along now towards the cradle of the Rothschild’s my brain is rocking its reflective matter from the canton of the quiet and religious Swiss here to the burghers of this profane28 people. But here I am, in the independent little territory of the Duchess of Darmstadt. Each mile-post is painted barber-pole style. This Duchess is better known as the Duchess of Nassau. The cars stopped at Darmstadt, and if a good big southern barber’s shop had been here the people all would have gone in it instead of Darmstadt by mistake. The gates are barberified in its style of designation.
I saw an American looking out of the cars at these posts until he felt his beard. All at once he threw himself back in his seat, as if he thought the country was too dull to look at, and of course impossible to produce anything sharp enough to take off beards.
Frankfort may be strictly29 termed the capitol of Germany; because all the German Princes meet here once a year and hold a conference on the great topics of interest to the whole German people. This gathering30 is called the Diet. This Diet enacts31 for the German principalities, some of the most wholesome32 and sound logical laws that comes from the parliament of any nation of these modern times. Frankfort has produced the most sagacious merchants the world ever knew. I have just been to look at Goethe’s house. It has stood the scathing33 weather of the main for five hundred years, but none of the calamities34 of time have laid their fingers upon it, save a slight decay.
“Frankfort on the Oder” must not be misconstrued so as to convey an idea of this Frankfort. This is generally designated as Frankfort on the Main. It is a town full of high spirited people, and lively as crickets, but less sedate35. Business is always good here. Each man is in some degree possessed36 with the ambition of a Rothschild. I am going to see the house of the primitive37 Rothschild, and then off to the Rhine.
Here I am at Mainz, on the banks of the Rhine. Looking at my ticket down the Rhine, I see this is the 17th of September, but the weather indicates summer time. This old, dead, but vast town, has the distinction allotted38 to it of producing the first book printer.
I will not attempt, as most chroniclers, to describe the impression the legend river of Europe made on me; suffice it to say that, on every peak, and that is saying a good deal, is the ruins of tyrants40, and every hole that is made through these turrets41, sends out a woeful wisp of a “Blue Beard’s wrath,” that quickens the pulse of a modern civilian42.
I am now in town, at a great hotel, called Disch. Here is a very old city, and in old times Roman emperors were proclaimed here. The wife of Germanicus, Aggrippa, the mother of the tyrant39 that “fiddled” whilst Rome was burning, was born here. In this city is a church which has already cost four millions of florins, and is not finished yet. In this church is one of the most imposing43 pieces of splendor the eye of man ever gazed on. Inside of this case of jewels is three skulls44 filled with jewels. They glitter about in the nose and eyes and ears like moving maggots, and causes man to gaze with amazement45 upon the peculiarities46 of the people of German towns. Its name is Cologne. Its modern merit is its production of Colognes, not little towns, but the fluid possessing requisite47 qualifications of admittance to the private apartment of the sweetest virgin48.
I must now bring this chapter to a close and go down among the Dutch.
点击收听单词发音
1 miseries | |
n.痛苦( misery的名词复数 );痛苦的事;穷困;常发牢骚的人 | |
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2 brass | |
n.黄铜;黄铜器,铜管乐器 | |
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3 seclusion | |
n.隐遁,隔离 | |
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4 disperses | |
v.(使)分散( disperse的第三人称单数 );疏散;驱散;散布 | |
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5 spicy | |
adj.加香料的;辛辣的,有风味的 | |
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6 spiciest | |
adj.用香料调味的( spicy的最高级 );有香料味的;有刺激性的;(故事、新闻等) 刺激的 | |
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7 gambling | |
n.赌博;投机 | |
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8 splendor | |
n.光彩;壮丽,华丽;显赫,辉煌 | |
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9 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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10 appellation | |
n.名称,称呼 | |
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11 conspicuously | |
ad.明显地,惹人注目地 | |
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12 barons | |
男爵( baron的名词复数 ); 巨头; 大王; 大亨 | |
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13 knights | |
骑士; (中古时代的)武士( knight的名词复数 ); 骑士; 爵士; (国际象棋中)马 | |
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14 dealing | |
n.经商方法,待人态度 | |
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15 disinterested | |
adj.不关心的,不感兴趣的 | |
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16 snugly | |
adv.紧贴地;贴身地;暖和舒适地;安适地 | |
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17 scampers | |
v.蹦蹦跳跳地跑,惊惶奔跑( scamper的第三人称单数 ) | |
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18 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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19 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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20 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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21 upwards | |
adv.向上,在更高处...以上 | |
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22 vat | |
n.(=value added tax)增值税,大桶 | |
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23 longevity | |
n.长命;长寿 | |
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24 spouting | |
n.水落管系统v.(指液体)喷出( spout的现在分词 );滔滔不绝地讲;喋喋不休地说;喷水 | |
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25 eloquence | |
n.雄辩;口才,修辞 | |
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26 duels | |
n.两男子的决斗( duel的名词复数 );竞争,斗争 | |
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27 arena | |
n.竞技场,运动场所;竞争场所,舞台 | |
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28 profane | |
adj.亵神的,亵渎的;vt.亵渎,玷污 | |
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29 strictly | |
adv.严厉地,严格地;严密地 | |
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30 gathering | |
n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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31 enacts | |
制定(法律),通过(法案)( enact的第三人称单数 ) | |
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32 wholesome | |
adj.适合;卫生的;有益健康的;显示身心健康的 | |
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33 scathing | |
adj.(言词、文章)严厉的,尖刻的;不留情的adv.严厉地,尖刻地v.伤害,损害(尤指使之枯萎)( scathe的现在分词) | |
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34 calamities | |
n.灾祸,灾难( calamity的名词复数 );不幸之事 | |
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35 sedate | |
adj.沉着的,镇静的,安静的 | |
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36 possessed | |
adj.疯狂的;拥有的,占有的 | |
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37 primitive | |
adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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38 allotted | |
分配,拨给,摊派( allot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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39 tyrant | |
n.暴君,专制的君主,残暴的人 | |
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40 tyrants | |
专制统治者( tyrant的名词复数 ); 暴君似的人; (古希腊的)僭主; 严酷的事物 | |
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41 turrets | |
(六角)转台( turret的名词复数 ); (战舰和坦克等上的)转动炮塔; (摄影机等上的)镜头转台; (旧时攻城用的)塔车 | |
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42 civilian | |
adj.平民的,民用的,民众的 | |
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43 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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44 skulls | |
颅骨( skull的名词复数 ); 脑袋; 脑子; 脑瓜 | |
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45 amazement | |
n.惊奇,惊讶 | |
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46 peculiarities | |
n. 特质, 特性, 怪癖, 古怪 | |
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47 requisite | |
adj.需要的,必不可少的;n.必需品 | |
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48 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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