The ship stopped here a day, and all the passengers, and the rest of mankind, went ashore7. The men were quite handsome for such a rough country; four or five young men and myself, were determined8 to see some of the Syrian ladies, if possible. On we went to the top of the city, through very narrow streets, and few ran over fifty yards without ending, and taking some unknown direction. After great exertion9 we reached the highest house, but, like Moses from his Pisgah, we saw the land but not its fruits. We were still inclined to prosecute10 our search, until our minds came to some definite conclusion. An exclamation11 of joy burst forth12 from one of our company, indicating success. We all moved closer to our guide, who, most wonderful to behold13, had discovered the figure of a woman with her back towards us. We passed respectfully by her, trying to conceal14 our emotion of success. The first that passed her, quickly turned round as if he would speak to our companions, just as you have seen a young lady walk a little ahead of her companion, to have an excuse to look back at some young gent who seemed to have admired her when passing, and lo! this woman’s face was bound in the fashion of death, her motion was as still as the grave, and well it might be, as it was nothing but a marble figure of some Grecian maid, long dead. We had one good laugh to reward the artist of so exquisite15 a piece of his skill. The young men went skipping down the hill towards our vessel. I, taking more interest in this monumental piece of affection, did not discover that my friends were gone until I found myself a “last Mohican.” I started to descend17 the theatrical18 looking town, by winding19 in and out of small passage ways, until I found myself up an alley20 with no outlet21, and when I turned to go out, the gate was fast and barred. A gate running in another direction was opened, and, old as a man could well be, was an old priest, seated on a stone beckoning22 to me to come in. I did not seem to comprehend, but he was determined I should, and came out with an extraordinary long string of beads23 nearly counted. He spoke24 several languages, and informed me that if my business was what all persons’ business is that enter that alley, that he was ready to give me absolution. I informed him in French that I was there through a mistake; and he then told me that it was usual in Syria for those wishing immediate25 absolution, to come to the priest’s residence at all times, when there was no services in church, and on payment of a small fee, get value received in full. He was a kind old man. He offered to give me absolution right off, for any mistake, or bad intention that I allowed to occupy my attention, whilst in Syria.
Whilst I was explaining to the priest, I heard a suppressed laugh at the gate. The priest opened the gate and let me out. My friends were close by; they had seen me go in the passage way with no outlet and fastened the gate on me, as they say “to have a lark,” but they little knew that they were then placing me in wisdom’s way; I had learned more with the priest than I could from them all day long.
Our sail is up, and on ahead of us is Smyrna, the birthplace of Homer, one of the seven churches of Asia Minor26, and it has 150,000 inhabitants, and it is close to the Isle27 of Patmos, where St. John wrote the Revelations and saw four angels standing28 on the four quarters of the globe holding up the four winds of Heaven, that they might not blow upon the sea nor the earth.
Smyrna has been destroyed ten or twelve times and still has a large population. Like Syra, Smyrna is on the side of a hill. None of its ancient buildings remain except a corner wall of an old church that resounded29 back the voice of St. John to the minds of his hearers, when he preached those very Epistles we hear every Sabbath, in all Christian30 lands. The streets and bazaars31 are densely32 crowded with business men from all smaller towns for hundreds of miles around, and the houses, which are only one story, seem to be as densely filled with pretty women. I see no window of a respectable looking house without a lady. I cannot describe the ladies dress as I was not fortunate enough to get inside, and as they are very seldom on the street. The dresses of the men were of so many styles it would not pay to describe them, it is enough to say that it consisted of a many colors as Joseph’s coat, of some cotton or silk woof of all qualities.
There being no accommodation here for travelers, we did not ask the captain to lay by all night. Next morning we were sailing through the rapid Hellespont, at the Dardenelles. About ten o’clock, A. M. we reached the part of the Hellespont where Lord Byron swam across from Europe to Asia—from Sestos to Abydos.
“If in the month of dark December,
Leander, who was nightly wont33
(What maid will not the tale remember?)
To cross thy stream, broad Hellespont!”
Here we stopped some minutes, and two or three yawls came from the Asia side in quest of something to do. At the hind34 part of one of these yawls was a large, fat and shiney black African, doing the lazy part of the work—steering. His heavy self weighed down the other end, containing two men and oars35. It was a beautiful day and the sun came down with a quivering heat in the distance, so, as it is said, that the natives in the interior of Africa cook their meat on sun heated rocks, he looked as if he was about to broil36. He attracted the attention and caused amusement for the passengers; and some one threw some orange peelings on his naked rotundity as he was half lying on his back with no clothes on above his loins. He pretended to take no notice of it until they came in such regular succession he could not but show signs of acknowledgement or cowardice37. After his patience gave out, he turned lazily around and looked up, like a duck at thunder, and shook his head; they followed up this amusement until he got agoing on the gibberish dialect, and that was more amusement yet; at last our boat left him, and one of our passengers translated his resentment38. It was merely, “according to his ideas of decorum, he had not been treated gentlemanly, and that he would remember it if ever we came to his country, and that he would not consider us worth taking notice of.”
On the morning of the 11th of May, the captain said to the sailors, “Bosphorus! down the hatch and bring the mail on deck.” I looked ahead and saw an immense number of steeples, towers and minarets39; to the eye no city on earth need look prettier. It was, indeed, the fairest sight I ever beheld40. I asked an old Turkish tar16 what it was, he said, “Stamboul, stamboul.” The captain said to the pilot, “right towards the Harem.” Gondoliers from all directions of the “golden horn” were racing41 to us; in one of them a couple of officers, in their gay colors came. All our baggage was gondoliered, and we, all afloat, approached the Custom House. I slipped a five franc piece, as I had been told, in an officers hand, to get rid of the trouble of unlocking trunks, and he went blind, and I passed unmolested with my contraband42, if I had any, into the great Mahommedan city, Constantinople.
点击收听单词发音
1 glided | |
v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 );掠过;(鸟或飞机 ) 滑翔 | |
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2 steered | |
v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 );操纵;控制;引导 | |
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3 firmament | |
n.苍穹;最高层 | |
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4 receding | |
v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 );向后倾斜;自原处后退或避开别人的注视;尤指问题 | |
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5 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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6 mole | |
n.胎块;痣;克分子 | |
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7 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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8 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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9 exertion | |
n.尽力,努力 | |
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10 prosecute | |
vt.告发;进行;vi.告发,起诉,作检察官 | |
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11 exclamation | |
n.感叹号,惊呼,惊叹词 | |
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12 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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13 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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14 conceal | |
v.隐藏,隐瞒,隐蔽 | |
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15 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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16 tar | |
n.柏油,焦油;vt.涂或浇柏油/焦油于 | |
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17 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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18 theatrical | |
adj.剧场的,演戏的;做戏似的,做作的 | |
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19 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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20 alley | |
n.小巷,胡同;小径,小路 | |
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21 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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22 beckoning | |
adj.引诱人的,令人心动的v.(用头或手的动作)示意,召唤( beckon的现在分词 ) | |
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23 beads | |
n.(空心)小珠子( bead的名词复数 );水珠;珠子项链 | |
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24 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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25 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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26 minor | |
adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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27 isle | |
n.小岛,岛 | |
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28 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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29 resounded | |
v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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30 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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31 bazaars | |
(东方国家的)市场( bazaar的名词复数 ); 义卖; 义卖市场; (出售花哨商品等的)小商品市场 | |
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32 densely | |
ad.密集地;浓厚地 | |
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33 wont | |
adj.习惯于;v.习惯;n.习惯 | |
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34 hind | |
adj.后面的,后部的 | |
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35 oars | |
n.桨,橹( oar的名词复数 );划手v.划(行)( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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36 broil | |
v.烤,烧,争吵,怒骂;n.烤,烧,争吵,怒骂 | |
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37 cowardice | |
n.胆小,怯懦 | |
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38 resentment | |
n.怨愤,忿恨 | |
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39 minarets | |
n.(清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的)光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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40 beheld | |
v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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41 racing | |
n.竞赛,赛马;adj.竞赛用的,赛马用的 | |
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42 contraband | |
n.违禁品,走私品 | |
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