The monks19 were passing to and fro in all directions. The best place to locate for a short time, is in the convent attached to the church; they make no charges against a pilgrim, but no pilgrim can come here unless rich, and no rich man will go away without giving something to so sacred a place as the tomb of our Savior.
These monks are strict in all their rules, and allow none to be treated with indifference20; they allow no chickens, ducks, cats, or dogs in the convent; as by their courting habits they might lead the mind of man from spiritual reflections, to groveling desires. These are undisputed facts, and I got them from the lips of a monk18’s aid. I walked round the walls of this celebrated21 city in one hour and a quarter, though when Titus took it, it contained about 2,000,000 souls. But as Jerusalem was considered by the Jews impregnable, the people from all the villages round about came here for safety. This accounts for its having so many people when taken. I am mounting a small Arab steed to go to Bethlehem. I can see it from here. In an hour after leaving Jerusalem, I passed by the tomb of Lazarus, and rode up to the walls of the convent at Bethel. It was closely shut on all sides. Our guide demanded in an authorative tone and air for entrance. A bare footed monk unlatched the door, and we walked in, and were carried direct to the altar built over the manger. We saw burning candles and flowers strewn around. We came out and wended our way towards Jericho, it could be seen in the distance. We came to a spring whose water was running freely, and the guide had the impudence22 to tell me that the cause of this water running so freely, was because the jawbone that Sampson fought so bravely with was buried here. He had told me another absurd story about Jeremiah’s cave, but I was not inclined to believe anything I heard from the people about here, because I knew as much as they did about it. I came to Jerusalem with a submissive heart, but when I heard all the absurdities23 of these ignorant people, I was more inclined to ridicule24 right over these sacred dead bodies, and spots, than pay homage25.
The same evening I camped at Jericho, about a hundred yards from where the Jordan empties into the Dead Sea. We took a bath in the Jordan, and tried some of its water with eau de vie, and found it in quality like Mississippi water. Then before we dressed, we took another in the Dead Sea. I cannot swim, but I could not sink in this sea; it is a strong brine of sulphur and salt, and stronger in holding up substances than the Mediterranean26 or the Atlantic. No living creature can live in it; the Jordan washes an immense quantity of small perch-like fish into it, but they instantly die, and are thrown out on the banks of the sea within twenty feet of the Jordan. The Jordan is frightfully rapid, but so narrow that a child could throw a stone across any part of it within a mile of the sea. Rabbits and birds are plentiful27 here; in the shrubbery in the valley of the Jordan I killed doves and quails28 enough for supper. Jericho is not worth mentioning, as there is not even a temple here left by time. The ground is covered with broken bricks and stones.
Having stayed in the city of Jerusalem seventeen days, I leave it, never wishing to return again, and am now leaving the wall, Calvary, Moriah, and Olivet, to see Gallilee, Tabor, Nazareth, and Damascus. I saw the sea, as no doubt it was when the whale vomited29; I saw the little house where water was turned into wine, I saw Tabor, ascended30 and took my chances with the wild boar; I returned from Tabor to Nazareth, where I had left my baggage and provisions; eat some camel’s meat. The soldiers were preparing for army stores, and I hurried on to Damascus to hear something about the decrees of St. Petersburg against the sublime31 Porte. The Turks all through Palestine were preparing for war; they said this year, 1853, was going to be a memorable32 one; the crescent and the cross were to shine gloomily, for the hungry Russian bear was seeking food beyond his lair33. About the 1st of July I arrived at the Paradise-plain City of Damascus, and bought a blade. I bought some silks, and old swords, celebrated as Damascus blades were, with one I cut a half a dollar into two pieces. The ambassadors of different nations were informing their country’s subjects that it was best to be among the missing, and said that some Russians were here yesterday, but were now gone to parts unknown. These ambassadors were more frightened than their subjects; one said to Col. Fellowes and myself, “as soon as the Sultan declares war, no christian13 will be allowed to pass the barrier of his boundary,” and as this is said to be a quarrel on religion, every christian head might fall “that is found where waves the little Turkish flag of the crescent and the cross.” I packed my trunk, paid my bill, and left Damascus and its sights, and traveled towards the Mediterranean. I looked at my old Damascus blade, and thought of those sharp scymaters, like reap hooks, and as I could see one in my imagination, I felt all over, and spurred towards Joppa.
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1 mosque | |
n.清真寺 | |
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2 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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3 fidelity | |
n.忠诚,忠实;精确 | |
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4 mounds | |
土堆,土丘( mound的名词复数 ); 一大堆 | |
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5 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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6 parched | |
adj.焦干的;极渴的;v.(使)焦干 | |
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7 charred | |
v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式);烧焦 | |
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8 dome | |
n.圆屋顶,拱顶 | |
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9 humble | |
adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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10 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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11 slabs | |
n.厚板,平板,厚片( slab的名词复数 );厚胶片 | |
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12 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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13 Christian | |
adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒 | |
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14 consecrated | |
adj.神圣的,被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣,给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 );奉献 | |
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15 prostrated | |
v.使俯伏,使拜倒( prostrate的过去式和过去分词 );(指疾病、天气等)使某人无能为力 | |
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16 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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17 mangled | |
vt.乱砍(mangle的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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18 monk | |
n.和尚,僧侣,修道士 | |
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19 monks | |
n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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20 indifference | |
n.不感兴趣,不关心,冷淡,不在乎 | |
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21 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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22 impudence | |
n.厚颜无耻;冒失;无礼 | |
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23 absurdities | |
n.极端无理性( absurdity的名词复数 );荒谬;谬论;荒谬的行为 | |
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24 ridicule | |
v.讥讽,挖苦;n.嘲弄 | |
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25 homage | |
n.尊敬,敬意,崇敬 | |
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26 Mediterranean | |
adj.地中海的;地中海沿岸的 | |
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27 plentiful | |
adj.富裕的,丰富的 | |
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28 quails | |
鹌鹑( quail的名词复数 ); 鹌鹑肉 | |
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29 vomited | |
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30 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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31 sublime | |
adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
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32 memorable | |
adj.值得回忆的,难忘的,特别的,显著的 | |
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33 lair | |
n.野兽的巢穴;躲藏处 | |
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