It is in Hauran that this mixture of races is most forcibly thrust upon one’s notice. In the villages south of Damascus, the crowd which gathers round the tents is sure to contain several smiling negroes, some of{86} them branded on the cheeks; Circassians, with sickle-shaped nose and thin lips, sharp-featured and small-limbed men with an untamable expression on their bitter faces; Arabs, darker of complexion3, and more languid of eye; and Turkish soldiers, thin and smallpox4 bitten. There are to be found the Jew, sneering5 complacently6 at the inferior world; the fanatical Moslem7, who will break the water-bottle your lips have touched; the Druse, who objects to coffee and tobacco, and to whom you hesitate to say “Good morning,” lest he may have conscientious8 scruples9 about that; and the cross-bred ruffian, who has no scruples about anything. Everything helps to strengthen the impression. In Damascus it seems always to be Sunday with one or other portion of the population, and a different set of shutters10 are up each day for nearly half the week. The railway, it might be supposed, must have blended the life of the composite East, but it only serves to emphasise11 the compositeness. In one of the Hauran stations we had some hours to wait. We spread our rugs in the shadow of the station-house, with a Turkish officer, an Arab soldier, and a long line of camels to watch till lunch was ready. When the time came, the hall of the booking-office was cleared of passengers of a dozen different nationalities, and our lunch was spread on the floor, just in front of the ticket-window! The train came at last, an hour late, drawn12 by a rather blasé-looking engine. Then began that babel of tongues which shows how nations meet in the East. All the world seemed to have sent its representatives to that{87} train—its wealth to the white-cushioned first-class; its middle-class to the bare boards of the second; its poverty to the cattle-trucks dignified13 by the name of third,—while behind the carriages came two waggons14 loaded with grain, their owner perched high on one, and a baby’s cradle on the other.
All this phantasmagoria of the present helps one to realise better the extraordinary history of the past. For thousands of years the flow of manifold human life through Syria has been continuous. At the mouth of the Dog River, whose valley has from time immemorial served as a main passage from the sea to the East for armies, there is, cut in smoothed faces of the solid rock, the most remarkable15 collection of inscriptions16 in the world. The Assyrian slab17 shows still the familiar bearded figure of the monarch18 with his air of strength untempered by compassion19. The Egyptian slab records its invasion in hieroglyphics21. The Greek, Roman, and French stones tell their similar tale. Throughout the land the same thing repeats itself. In Hauran we found a fine Egyptian hieroglyphic20 embedded22 in the mud-and-rubble interior wall of a private courtyard, an altar of the time of Titus lying exposed on a hillside, and many Graeco-Roman inscriptions built into the walls of houses.[15] The five names which we have selected from so great a number of invaders23 are those whose mark upon the land has been deepest and most permanent.
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1 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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2 minor | |
adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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3 complexion | |
n.肤色;情况,局面;气质,性格 | |
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4 smallpox | |
n.天花 | |
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5 sneering | |
嘲笑的,轻蔑的 | |
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6 complacently | |
adv. 满足地, 自满地, 沾沾自喜地 | |
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7 Moslem | |
n.回教徒,穆罕默德信徒;adj.回教徒的,回教的 | |
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8 conscientious | |
adj.审慎正直的,认真的,本着良心的 | |
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9 scruples | |
n.良心上的不安( scruple的名词复数 );顾虑,顾忌v.感到于心不安,有顾忌( scruple的第三人称单数 ) | |
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10 shutters | |
百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 ); (照相机的)快门 | |
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11 emphasise | |
vt.加强...的语气,强调,着重 | |
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12 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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13 dignified | |
a.可敬的,高贵的 | |
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14 waggons | |
四轮的运货马车( waggon的名词复数 ); 铁路货车; 小手推车 | |
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15 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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16 inscriptions | |
(作者)题词( inscription的名词复数 ); 献词; 碑文; 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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17 slab | |
n.平板,厚的切片;v.切成厚板,以平板盖上 | |
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18 monarch | |
n.帝王,君主,最高统治者 | |
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19 compassion | |
n.同情,怜悯 | |
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20 hieroglyphic | |
n.象形文字 | |
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21 hieroglyphics | |
n.pl.象形文字 | |
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22 embedded | |
a.扎牢的 | |
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23 invaders | |
入侵者,侵略者,侵入物( invader的名词复数 ) | |
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