The date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite was about the 21st of March, 1851. We were afterward1 assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of his band, that this was the first visit ever made to this valley by white men. Ten-ie-ya said that a small party of white men once crossed the mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to see it; Appleton’s and the People’s Encyclopedias2 to the contrary notwithstanding.10
It was to prevent the recurrence3 of such an event, that Ten-ie-ya had consented to go to the commissioner’s camp and make peace, intending to return to his mountain home as soon as the excitement from the recent outbreak subsided4. The entrance to the Valley had ever been carefully guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band. As a part of its traditionary history, it was stated: “That when Ten-ie-ya left the tribe of his mother and went to live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied by a very old Ah-wah-ne-chee, 71 who had been the great ‘medicine man’ of his tribe.”
It was through the influence of this old friend of his father that Ten-ie-ya was induced to leave the Mono tribe, and with a few of the descendants from the Ah-wah-nee-chees, who had been living with the Monos and Pai-Utes, to establish himself in the valley of his ancestors as their chief. He was joined by the descendants from the Ah-wah-ne-chees, and by others who had fled from their own tribes to avoid summary Indian justice. The old “medicine man” was the counselor6 of the young chief. Not long before the death of this patriarch, as if endowed with prophetic wisdom, he assured Ten-ie-ya that while he retained possession of Ah-wah-ne his band would increase in numbers and become powerful. That if he befriended those who sought his protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to make war upon him, or attempt to drive him from it, and if he obeyed his counsels he would put a spell upon it that would hold it sacred for him and his people alone; none other would ever dare to make it their home. He then cautioned the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands (the Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter Ah-wah-ne, his tribe would soon be scattered7 and destroyed, or his people be taken captive, and he himself be the last chief in Ah-wah-ne.
For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly9 guarded his valley home, and all who sought his protection. No one ventured to enter it, except by his permission; all feared the “witches” there, and his displeasure. He had “made war upon the white gold diggers to drive them from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah-wah-ne.”
The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the mountain tribes in this part of California; and the Ah-wah-ne-chee 72 and Mono members of it, were of finer build and lighter10 color than those commonly called “California Digger Indians.” Even the “Diggers” of the band, from association and the better food and air afforded in the mountains, had become superior to their inheritance, and as a tribe, the Yosemites were feared by other Indians.
The superstitious12 fear of annihilation had, however, so depressed13 the warlike ardor14 of Ten-ie-ya, who had now become an old man, that he had decided15 to make efforts to conciliate the Americans, rather than further resist their occupancy of the mountains; as thereby16, he hoped to save his valley from intrusion. In spite of Ten-ie-ya’s cunning, the prophecies of the “old medicine” man have been mostly fulfilled. White horsemen have entered Ah-wah-ne; the tribe has been scattered and destroyed. Ten-ie-ya was the last chief of his people. He was killed by the chief of the Monos, not because of the prophecy; nor yet because of our entrance into his territory, but in retribution for a crime against the Mono’s hospitality. But I must not, Indian like, tell the latter part of my story first.
After an early breakfast on the morning following our entrance into the Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty; and as the word was passed to “fall in,” we mounted and filed down the trail to the lower ford11, ready to commence our explorations.
The water in the Merced had fallen some during the night, but the stream was still in appearance a raging torrent17. As we were about to cross, our guide with earnest gesticulations asserted that the water was too deep to cross, that if we attempted it, we would be swept down into the ca?on. That later, we could cross without difficulty. These assertions angered the Major, and he told the guide that he lied; for he knew that later in the day the snow would melt. 73 Turning to Captain Boling he said: “I am now positive that the Indians are in the vicinity, and for that reason the guide would deceive us.” Telling the young Indian to remain near his person, he gave the order to cross at once.
The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it without serious difficulty, although several repeated their morning ablutions while stumbling over the boulders18.
The open ground on the north side was found free from snow. The trail led toward “El Capitan,” which had from the first, been the particular object of my admiration19.
At this time no distinctive20 names were known by which to designate the cliffs, waterfalls, or any of the especial objects of interest, and the imaginations of some ran wild in search of appropriate ones. None had any but a limited idea of the height of this cliff, and but few appeared conscious of the vastness of the granite21 wall before us; although an occasional ejaculation betrayed the feelings which the imperfect comprehension of the grand and wonderful excited. A few of us remarked upon the great length of time required to pass it, and by so doing, probably arrived at more or less correct conclusions regarding its size.
Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue from a cluster of manzanita shrubs22 that commanded a view of the trail. On examination, the smoking brands indicated that it had been a picket23 fire, and we now felt assured that our presence was known and our movements watched by the vigilant24 Indians we were hoping to find. Moving rapidly on, we discovered near the base of El Capitan, quite a large collection of Indian huts, situated25 near Pigeon creek26. On making a hasty examination of the village and vicinity, no Indians could be found, but from the generally undisturbed condition of things usually found in an Indian camp, it was evident that the occupants had but recently left; appearances indicated that some of the wigwams or huts had been 74 occupied during the night. Not far from the camp, upon posts, rocks, and in trees, was a large caché of acorns27 and other provisions.
HOUSEWORTH & CO. PHOTO.
HALF DOME28.
(4,737 feet in height.)
As the trail showed that it had been used by Indians going up, but a short halt was made. As we moved on, a smoke was again seen in the distance, and some of the more eager ones dashed ahead of the column, but as we reached the ford to which we were led by the main trail leading to 75 the right, our dashing cavaliers rejoined us and again took their places. These men reported that “fallen rocks” had prevented their passage up on the north side, and that our only course was to cross at the ford and follow the trail, as the low lands appeared too wet for rapid riding. Recrossing the Merced to the south-side, we found trails leading both up and down the river. A detachment was sent down to reconnoitre the open land below, while the main column pursued its course. The smoke we had seen was soon discovered to be rising from another encampment nearly south of the “Royal Arches;” and at the forks of the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, near the south-west base of the “Half Dome,” still another group of huts was brought to view.
NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES.
(3,568 feet in height.)
These discoveries necessitated29 the recrossing of the river, which had now again become quite swollen30; but by this time our horses and ourselves had become used to the icy waters, and when at times our animals lost their footing at the fords, they were not at all alarmed, but vigorously swam to the shore. 76
Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that the huts here had but just been deserted31; that they had been occupied that morning. Although a rigid8 search was made, no Indians were found. Scouting32 parties in charge of Lieutenants33 Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out to examine each branch of the valley, but this was soon found to be an impossible task to accomplish in one day. While exploring among the rocks that had fallen from the “Royal Arches” at the southwesterly base of the North Dome, my attention was attracted to a huge rock stilted34 upon some smaller ones. Cautiously glancing underneath35, I was for a moment startled by a living object. Involuntarily my rifle was brought to bear on it, when I discovered the object to be a female; an extremely old squaw, but with a countenance36 that could only be likened to a vivified Egyptian mummy. This creature exhibited no expression of alarm, and was apparently37 indifferent to hope or fear, love or hate. I hailed one of my comrades on his way to camp, to report to Major Savage38 that I had discovered a peculiar39 living ethnological curiosity, and to bring something for it to eat. She was seated on the ground, hovering40 over the remnants of an almost exhausted41 fire. I replenished42 her supply of fuel, and waited for the Major. She neither spoke43 or exhibited any curiosity as to my presence.
CATHEDRAL ROCKS
(2,660 feet in height.)
Major Savage soon came, but could elicit44 nothing of importance from her. When asked where her companions were, she understood the dialect used, for she very curtly45 replied “You can hunt for them if you want to see them”! When asked why she was left alone, she replied “I am too old to climb the rocks”! The Major—forgetting the gallantry due her sex—inquired “How old are you?” With an ineffably46 scornful grunt47, and a coquettish leer at the Major, she maintained an indignant silence. This attempt at a smile, left the Major in doubt as to her age. Subsequently, 77 when Ten-ie-ya was interrogated48 as to the age of this old squaw, he replied that “No one knows her age. That when he was a boy, it was a favorite tradition of the old members of his band, that when she was a child, the peaks of the Sierras were but little hills.” This free interpretation49 was given by the Major, while seated around the camp fire at night. If not reliable, it was excessively amusing to the “Boys,” and added to the Major’s popularity. On a subsequent visit to the Valley, an attempt was made to send the old creature to the commissioner’s camp; she was placed on a mule50 and started. As 78 she could not bear the fatigue51, she was left with another squaw. We learned that she soon after departed “to the happy land in the West.”
The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery of a small rancheria, a short distance above the “Cathedral Rocks,” but the huts were unoccupied. They also reported the continuance of the trail down the left bank. The other detachments found huts in groups, but no Indians. At all of these localities the stores of food were abundant.
Their cachés were principally of acorns, although many contained bay (California laurel), Pi?on pine (Digger pine), and chinquepin nuts, grass seeds, wild rye or oats (scorched52), dried worms, scorched grasshoppers53, and what proved to be the dried larv? of insects, which I was afterwards told were gathered from the waters of the lakes in and east of the Sierra Nevada. It was by this time quite clear that a large number of Ten-ie-ya’s band was hidden in the cliffs or among the rocky gorges54 or ca?ons, not accessible to us from the knowledge we then had of their trails and passes. We had not the time, nor had we supplied ourselves sufficiently57 to hunt them out. It was therefore decided that the best policy was to destroy their huts and stores, with a view of starving them out, and of thus compelling then to come in and join with Ten-ie-ya and the people with him on the reservation. At this conclusion the destruction of their property was ordered, and at once commenced. While this work was in progress, I indulged my curiosity in examining the lodges58 in which had been left their home property, domestic, useful and ornamental60. As compared with eastern tribes, their supplies of furniture of all kinds, excepting baskets, were meagre enough.
These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various patterns and for different uses. The large ones were made either of bark, roots of the Tamarach or Cedar61, Willow62 or 79 Tule. Those made for gathering63 and transporting food supplies, were of large size and round form, with a sharp apex64, into which, when inverted65 and placed upon the back, everything centres. This form of basket enables the carriers to keep their balance while passing over seemingly impassable rocks, and along the verge66 of dangerous precipices67. Other baskets found served as water buckets. Others again of various sizes were used as cups and soup bowls; and still another kind, made of a tough, wiry grass, closely woven and cemented, was used for kettles for boiling food. The boiling was effected by hot stones being continually plunged68 into the liquid mass, until the desired result was obtained.
The water baskets were also made of “wire-grass;” being porous69, evaporation70 is facilitated, and like the porous earthen water-jars of Mexico, and other hot countries, the water put into them is kept cool by evaporation. There were also found at some of the encampments, robes or blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from skins of water-fowl. There were also ornaments71 and musical instruments of a rude character. The instruments were drums and flageolets. The ornaments were of bone, bears’ claws, birds’ bills and feathers. The thread used by these Indians, I found was spun72 or twisted from the inner bark of a species of the asclepias or milk-weed, by ingeniously suspending a stone to the fibre, and whirling it with great rapidity. Sinews are chiefly used for sewing skins, for covering their bows and feathering their arrows. Their fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a cord so attached near the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed in a socket73 in the pole, was pulled out by the struggles of the fish, the tine and cord would hold it as securely as though held by a barbed hook.
There were many things found that only an Indian could 80 possibly use, and which it would be useless for me to attempt to describe; such, for instance, as stag-horn hammers, deer prong punches (for making arrow-heads), obsidian74, pumice-stone and salt brought from the eastern slope of the Sierras and from the desert lakes. In the hurry of their departure they had left everything. The numerous bones of animals scattered about the camps, indicated their love of horse-flesh as a diet.
Among these relics75 could be distinguished76 the bones of horses and mules77, as well as other animals, eaten by these savages78. Deers and bears were frequently driven into the valley during their seasons of migration79, and were killed by expert hunters perched upon rocks and in trees that commanded their runways or trails; but their chief dependence80 for meat was upon horseflesh.
Among the relics of stolen property were many things recognized by our “boys,” while applying the torch and giving all to the flames. A comrade discovered a bridle81 and part of a riata or rope which was stolen from him with a mule while waiting for the commissioners82 to inquire into the cause of the war with the Indians! No animals of any kind were kept by the Yosemites for any length of time except dogs, and they are quite often sacrificed to gratify their pride and appetite, in a dog feast. Their highest estimate of animals is only as an article of food. Those stolen from the settlers were not kept for their usefulness, except as additional camp supplies. The acorns found were alone estimated at from four to six hundred bushels.
During our explorations we were on every side astonished at the colossal83 representations of cliffs, rocky ca?ons and water-falls which constantly challenged our attention and admiration.
Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or 81 other sign of Indians, but no trail could be discovered by our eyes. Tired and almost exhausted in the fruitless search for Indians, the footmen returned to the place at which they had left their horses in the ca?ons, and in very thankfulness caressed84 them with delight.
In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly85 explored and names given to prominent objects and localities.
While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportunity to examine some of the numerous sweat-houses noticed on the bank of the Merced, below a large camp near the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. It may not be out of place to here give a few words in description of these conveniences of a permanent Indian encampment, and the uses for which they are considered a necessity.
The remains86 of these structures are sometimes mistaken for Tumuli. They were constructed of poles, bark, grass and mud. The frame-work of poles is first covered with bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud—as tenacious87 as the soil will admit of—is spread thickly over it. The structure is in the form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound88. After being dried by a slight fire, kindled89 inside, the mud is covered with earth of a sufficient depth to shed the rain from without, and prevent the escape of heat from within. A small opening for ingress and egress90 is left; this comprises the extent of the house when complete, and ready for use. These sweat-baths are used as a luxury, as a curative for disease, and as a convenience for cleansing91 the skin, when necessity demands it, although the Indian race is not noted92 for cleanliness.
As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed by civilized93 people, than are these baths by the Mountain Indians. I have seen a half dozen or more enter one of these rudely constructed sweat-houses, through the small aperture94 left for the purpose. Hot stones are taken in, the 82 aperture is closed until suffocation95 would seem impending96, when they would crawl out reeking97 with perspiration98, and with a shout, spring like acrobats99 into the cold waters of the stream. As a remedial agent for disease, the same course is pursued, though varied100 at times by the burning and inhalation of resinous102 boughs103 and herbs.
In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities104, hot air alone is generally used. If an Indian had passed the usual period for mourning for a relative, and the adhesive105 pitch too tenaciously106 clung to his no longer sorrowful countenance, he would enter, and re-enter the heated house, until the cleansing had become complete.
The mourning pitch is composed of the charred107 bones and ashes of their dead relative or friend. These remains of the funeral pyre, with the charcoal108, are pulverized109 and mixed with the resin101 of the pine. This hideous110 mixture is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until it wears off. If it has been well compounded, it may last nearly a year; although the young—either from a super-abundance of vitality111, excessive reparative powers of the skin, or from powers of will—seldom mourn so long. When the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, it is not a scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely112; but a mother will seldom remove pitch or garment until both are nearly worn out.
In their camps were found articles from the miners’ camps, and from the unguarded “ranchman.” There was no lack of evidence that the Indians who had deserted their villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the soubriquet of “the Grizzlies,” “the lawless.”
Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading from the different camps, all traces were soon lost among the rocks at the base of the cliffs. The debris113 or talus not only afforded places for temporary concealment114, but provided 83 facilities for escape without betraying the direction. If by chance a trail was followed for a while, it would at last be traced to some apparently inaccessible115 ledge56, or to the foot of some slippery depression in the walls, up which we did not venture to climb. While scouting up the Ten-ie-ya ca?on, above Mirror Lake, I struck the fresh trail of quite a large number of Indians. Leaving our horses, a few of us followed up the tracks until they were lost in the ascent116 up the cliff. By careful search they were again found and followed until finally they hopelessly disappeared.
Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned, although we were convinced that the Indians had in some way passed up the cliff.
During this time, and while descending117 to the valley, I partly realized the great height of the cliffs and high fall. I had observed the height we were compelled to climb before the Talus had been overcome, though from below this appeared insignificant118, and after reaching the summit of our ascent, the cliffs still towered above us. It was by instituting these comparisons while ascending119 and descending, that I was able to form a better judgment120 of altitude; for while entering the valley,—although, as before stated, I had observed the towering height of El Capitan,—my mind had been so preoccupied121 with the marvelous, that comparison had scarcely performed its proper function.
The level of the valley proper now appeared quite distant as we looked down upon it, and objects much less than full size. As night was fast approaching, and a storm threatened, we returned down the trail and took our course for the rendezvous122 selected by Major Savage, in a grove123 of oaks near the mouth of “Indian Ca?on.”
While on our way down, looking across to and up the south or Glacier124 Ca?on, I noticed its beautiful fall, and planned an excursion for the morrow. I almost forgot my 84 fatigue, in admiration of the solemn grandeur125 within my view; the lofty walls, the towering domes59 and numerous water-falls; their misty126 spray blending with the clouds settling down from the higher mountains.
GLACIER FALL.
(550 feet in height.)
The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses, for beside fording the Merced several times, the numerous branches pouring over cliffs and down ravines from the melting snow, rendered the overflow128 of the bottom lands so constant that we were often compelled to splash through the water-courses that later would be dry. These torrents129 of cold water, commanded more especial attention, and excited more comment than did the grandeur of the cliffs and water-falls. We were not a party of tourists, seeking recreation, nor philosophers investigating the operations of nature. Our business there was to find Indians who were endeavoring to escape from our charitable intentions toward them. But very few of the volunteers seemed to have any appreciation130 of the wonderful proportions of the enclosing 85 granite rocks; their curiosity had been to see the stronghold of the enemy, and the general verdict was that it was gloomy enough.
Tired and wet, the independent scouts131 sought the camp and reported their failures. Gilbert and Chandler came in with their detachments just at dark, from their tiresome132 explorations of the southern branches. Only a small squad133 of their commands climbed above the Vernal and Nevada falls; and seeing the clouds resting upon the mountains above the Nevada Fall, they retraced134 their steps through the showering mist of the Vernal, and joined their comrades, who had already started down its rocky gorge55. These men found no Indians, but they were the first discoverers of the Vernal and Nevada Falls, and the Little Yosemite. They reported what they had seen to their assembled comrades at the evening camp-fires. Their names have now passed from my memory—not having had an intimate personal acquaintance with them—for according to my recollection they belonged to the company of Capt. Dill.
While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage with a detachment who had been burning a large caché located in the fork, and another small one below the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch. This had been held in reserve for possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the flames were leaping high. Observing his movements for a few moments we rode up and made report of our unsuccessful efforts. I briefly135, but with some enthusiasm, described my view from the cliff up the North Ca?on, the Mirror Lake view of the Half Dome, the Fall of the South Ca?on and the view of the distant South Dome. I volunteered a suggestion that some new tactics would have to be devised before we should be able to corral the “Grizzlies” or “smoke them out.” The Major looked up from the charred mass of burning acorns, and as he glanced down the smoky valley, 86 said: “This affords us the best prospect136 of any yet discovered; just look!” “Splendid!” I promptly137 replied, “Yo-sem-i-te must be beautifully grand a few weeks later, when the foliage138 and flowers are at their prime, and the rush of water has somewhat subsided. Such cliffs and water-falls I never saw before, and I doubt if they exist in any other place.”
VERNAL FALL.
(350 feet in height.)
I was surprised and somewhat irritated by the hearty139 laugh with which my reply was greeted. The Major caught the expression of my eye and shrugged140 his shoulders as he hastily said: “I suppose that is all right, Doctor, about the water-falls, &c., for there are enough of them here for one locality, as we have all discovered; but my remark was not in reference to the scenery, but the prospect of the Indians being starved out, and of their coming in to sue for peace. We have all been more or less wet since we rolled up our blankets this morning, and this fire is very enjoyable, but 87 the prospect that it offers to my mind of smoking out the Indians, is more agreeable to me than its warmth or all the scenery in creation. I know, Doc., that there is a good deal of iron in you, but there is also considerable sentiment, and I am not in a very sentimental141 mood.” I replied that I did not think that any of us felt very much like making love or writing poetry, but that Ten-ie-ya’s remark to him about the “Great Spirit” providing so bountifully for his people, had several times occurred to me since entering here, and that no doubt to Ten-ie-ya, this was a veritable Indian paradise. “Well,” said the Major, “as far as that is concerned, although I have not carried a Bible with me since I became a mountain-man, I remember well enough that Satan entered paradise and did all the mischief142 he could, but I intend to be a bigger devil in this Indian paradise 88 than old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don’t intend to crawl out, either. Now Doc. we will go to camp but let me say while upon the subject, that we are in no condition to judge fairly of this valley. The annoyances143 and disappointments of a fruitless search, together with the certainty of a snow-storm approaching, makes all this beautiful scenery appear to me gloomy enough. In a word, it is what we supposed it to be before seeing it, a h—— of a place. The valley, no doubt, will always be a wonder for its grouping of cliffs and water-falls, but hemmed144 in by walls of rock, your vision turned in, as it were, upon yourself—a residence here would be anything but desirable for me. Any one of the Rocky Mountain parks would be preferable, while the ease with which buffalo145, black-tail and big-horn could be provided in the “Rockies” would, in comparison, make your Indian paradise anything but desirable, even for these Indians.”
NEVADA FALL.
(600 feet in height.)
The more practical tone and views of the Major dampened the ardor of my fancy in investing the valley with all desirable qualities, but as we compared with each other the experiences of the day, it was very clear that the half had not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views would be required before any one person could say that he had seen the Yosemite. It will probably be as well for me to say here that though Major Savage commanded the first expedition to the valley, he never revisited it, and died without ever having seen the Vernal and Nevada Falls, or any of the views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, except those seen from the valley and from the old Indian trail on our first entrance.
We found our camp had been plentifully146 supplied with dry wood by the provident147 guard, urged, no doubt, by the threatening appearances of another snow-storm. Some rude shelters of poles and brush were thrown up around the 89 fires, on which were placed the drying blankets, the whole serving as an improvement on our bivouac accomodations. The night was colder than the previous one, for the wind was coming down the ca?ons of the snowy Sierras. The fires were lavishly148 piled with the dry oak wood, which sent out a glowing warmth. The fatigue and exposure of the day were forgotten in the hilarity149 with which supper was devoured150 by the hungry scouts while steaming in their wet garments. After supper Major Savage announced that “from the very extensive draft on the commissary stores just made, it was necessary to return to the ‘South Fork.’” He said that it would be advisable for us to return, as we were not in a condition to endure delay if the threatened storm should prove to be a severe one; and ordered both Captains Boling and Dill to have their companies ready for the march at daylight the next morning.
While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to a night’s rest, the incidents of our observations during the day were interchanged. The probable heights of the cliffs was discussed. One official estimated “El Capitan” at 400 feet!! Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major Savage was in no mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a sheer perpendicularity151 of at least 1500 feet. Mr. C. H. Spencer, son of Prof. Thomas Spencer, of Geneva, N. Y.,—who had traveled quite extensively in Europe,—and a French gentleman, Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil engineer, who had joined us for the sake of adventure, gave me their opinions that my estimate was none too high; that it was probable that I was far below a correct measurement, for when there was so much sameness of height the judgment could not very well be assisted by comparison, and hence instrumental measurements alone could be relied on. Time has demonstrated the correctness of their opinions. These gentlemen were men of education and practical experience 90 in observing the heights of objects of which measurement had been made, and quietly reminded their auditors152 that it was difficult to measure such massive objects with the eye alone. That some author had said: “But few persons have a correct judgment of height that rises above sixty feet.”
I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the subject of the valley, and expressed myself in such a positive manner that the “enfant terrible” of the company derisively153 asked if I was given to exaggeration before I became an “Indian fighter.” From my ardor in description, and admiration of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed “Yosemity” by some of the battalion154. It was customary among the mountain men and miners to prefix155 distinctive names. From this hint I became less expressive156, when conversing157 on matters relating to the valley. My self-respect caused me to talk less among my comrades generally, but with intimate friends the subject was always an open one, and my estimates of heights were never reduced.
Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but on our expressing a design to revisit the valley at some future time, he assured us that there was a probability of our being fully5 gratified, for if the renegades did not voluntarily come in, another visit would soon have to be made by the battalion, when we could have opportunity to measure the rocks if we then desired. That we should first escort our “captives” to the commissioners’ camp on the Fresno; that by the time we returned to the valley the trails would be clear of snow, and we would be able to explore to our satisfaction. Casting a quizzing glance at me, he said: “The rocks will probably keep, but you will not find all of these immense water-powers.”
Notwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheerfully wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept, until awakened158 by the guard; for there had been no disturbance159 91 during the night. The snow had fallen only to about the depth of an inch in the valley, but the storm still continued.
By early dawn “all ready” was announced, and we started back without having seen any of the Indian race except our useless guide and the old squaw. Major Savage rode at the head of the column, retracing160 our trail, rather than attempt to follow down the south side. The water was relatively161 low in the early morning, and the fords were passed without difficulty. While passing El Capitan I felt like saluting162, as I would some dignified163 acquaintance.
The cachés below were yet smouldering, but the lodges had disappeared.
At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail over rocks that could not be re-ascended with animals. To return, we were compelled to remove a few obstructions164 of poles, brush and loose rocks, placed by the Indians to prevent the escape of the animals stolen and driven down. Entire herds165 had been sometimes taken from the ranches127 or their ranges.
After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encountered. The snow had drifted into the hollows, but had not to any extent obscured the trail, which we now found quite hard. We reached the camp earlier in the day than we had reason to expect. During these three days of absence from headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially166 explored one of the most remarkable167 of the geographical168 wonders of the world.
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afterward
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encyclopedias
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recurrence
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subsided
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| v.（土地）下陷（因在地下采矿）( subside的过去式和过去分词 )；减弱；下降至较低或正常水平；一下子坐在椅子等上 | |
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fully
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counselor
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| n.顾问，法律顾问 | |
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7
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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8
rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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rigidly
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| adv.刻板地，僵化地 | |
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10
lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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Ford
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| n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过 | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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depressed
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| adj.沮丧的，抑郁的，不景气的，萧条的 | |
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ardor
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| n.热情，狂热 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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17
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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18
boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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19
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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20
distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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21
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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22
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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23
picket
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| n.纠察队；警戒哨；v.设置纠察线；布置警卫 | |
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24
vigilant
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| adj.警觉的，警戒的，警惕的 | |
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25
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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26
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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27
acorns
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| n.橡子，栎实( acorn的名词复数 ) | |
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28
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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29
necessitated
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| 使…成为必要，需要( necessitate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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30
swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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31
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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32
scouting
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| 守候活动，童子军的活动 | |
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33
lieutenants
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| n.陆军中尉( lieutenant的名词复数 )；副职官员；空军；仅低于…官阶的官员 | |
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34
stilted
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| adj.虚饰的；夸张的 | |
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35
underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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36
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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37
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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38
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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39
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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40
hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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41
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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42
replenished
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| 补充( replenish的过去式和过去分词 )； 重新装满 | |
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43
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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44
elicit
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| v.引出,抽出,引起 | |
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45
curtly
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| adv.简短地 | |
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46
ineffably
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| adv.难以言喻地，因神圣而不容称呼地 | |
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47
grunt
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| v.嘟哝；作呼噜声；n.呼噜声，嘟哝 | |
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48
interrogated
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| v.询问( interrogate的过去式和过去分词 )；审问；（在计算机或其他机器上）查询 | |
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49
interpretation
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| n.解释，说明，描述；艺术处理 | |
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50
mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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51
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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52
scorched
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| 烧焦，烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（植物）枯萎，把…晒枯； 高速行驶； 枯焦 | |
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53
grasshoppers
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| n.蚱蜢( grasshopper的名词复数 )；蝗虫；蚂蚱；（孩子）矮小的 | |
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54
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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55
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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56
ledge
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| n.壁架，架状突出物；岩架，岩礁 | |
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57
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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58
lodges
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| v.存放( lodge的第三人称单数 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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59
domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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60
ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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61
cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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62
willow
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| n.柳树 | |
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63
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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64
apex
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| n.顶点，最高点 | |
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65
inverted
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| adj.反向的，倒转的v.使倒置，使反转( invert的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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66
verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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67
precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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68
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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69
porous
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| adj.可渗透的，多孔的 | |
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70
evaporation
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| n.蒸发，消失 | |
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71
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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72
spun
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| v.纺，杜撰，急转身 | |
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73
socket
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| n.窝，穴，孔，插座，插口 | |
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74
obsidian
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| n.黑曜石 | |
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75
relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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76
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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77
mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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78
savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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79
migration
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| n.迁移，移居，（鸟类等的）迁徙 | |
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80
dependence
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| n.依靠，依赖；信任，信赖；隶属 | |
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81
bridle
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| n.笼头，束缚；vt.抑制，约束；动怒 | |
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82
commissioners
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| n.专员( commissioner的名词复数 )；长官；委员；政府部门的长官 | |
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83
colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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84
caressed
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| 爱抚或抚摸…( caress的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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85
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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86
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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87
tenacious
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| adj.顽强的，固执的，记忆力强的，粘的 | |
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88
mound
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| n.土墩，堤，小山；v.筑堤，用土堆防卫 | |
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89
kindled
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| （使某物）燃烧，着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 )； 激起（感情等）； 发亮，放光 | |
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90
egress
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| n.出去；出口 | |
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91
cleansing
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| n. 净化(垃圾) adj. 清洁用的 动词cleanse的现在分词 | |
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92
noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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93
civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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94
aperture
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| n.孔，隙，窄的缺口 | |
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95
suffocation
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| n.窒息 | |
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96
impending
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| a.imminent, about to come or happen | |
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97
reeking
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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98
perspiration
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| n.汗水；出汗 | |
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99
acrobats
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| n.杂技演员( acrobat的名词复数 )；立场观点善变的人，主张、政见等变化无常的人 | |
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100
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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101
resin
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| n.树脂，松香，树脂制品；vt.涂树脂 | |
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102
resinous
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| adj.树脂的，树脂质的，树脂制的 | |
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103
boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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104
impurities
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| 不纯( impurity的名词复数 )； 不洁； 淫秽； 杂质 | |
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105
adhesive
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| n.粘合剂；adj.可粘着的，粘性的 | |
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106
tenaciously
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| 坚持地 | |
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107
charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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108
charcoal
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| n.炭，木炭，生物炭 | |
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109
pulverized
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| adj.[医]雾化的，粉末状的v.将…弄碎( pulverize的过去式和过去分词 )；将…弄成粉末或尘埃；摧毁；粉碎 | |
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110
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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111
vitality
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| n.活力，生命力，效力 | |
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112
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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113
debris
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| n.瓦砾堆，废墟，碎片 | |
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114
concealment
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| n.隐藏, 掩盖，隐瞒 | |
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115
inaccessible
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| adj.达不到的，难接近的 | |
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116
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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117
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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118
insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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119
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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120
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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121
preoccupied
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| adj.全神贯注的，入神的；被抢先占有的；心事重重的v.占据（某人）思想，使对…全神贯注，使专心于( preoccupy的过去式) | |
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122
rendezvous
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| n.约会，约会地点，汇合点；vi.汇合，集合；vt.使汇合，使在汇合地点相遇 | |
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123
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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124
glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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125
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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126
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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127
ranches
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| 大农场， （兼种果树，养鸡等的）大牧场( ranch的名词复数 ) | |
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128
overflow
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| v.(使)外溢，(使)溢出；溢出，流出，漫出 | |
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129
torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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130
appreciation
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| n.评价；欣赏；感谢；领会，理解；价格上涨 | |
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131
scouts
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| 侦察员[机，舰]( scout的名词复数 )； 童子军； 搜索； 童子军成员 | |
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tiresome
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| adj.令人疲劳的，令人厌倦的 | |
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133
squad
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| n.班，小队，小团体；vt.把…编成班或小组 | |
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134
retraced
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| v.折回( retrace的过去式和过去分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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135
briefly
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| adv.简单地，简短地 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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138
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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shrugged
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| vt.耸肩（shrug的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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141
sentimental
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| adj.多愁善感的，感伤的 | |
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142
mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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143
annoyances
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| n.恼怒( annoyance的名词复数 )；烦恼；打扰；使人烦恼的事 | |
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144
hemmed
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| 缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 )； 包围 | |
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buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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146
plentifully
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| adv. 许多地，丰饶地 | |
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provident
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| adj.为将来做准备的，有先见之明的 | |
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148
lavishly
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| adv.慷慨地，大方地 | |
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149
hilarity
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| n.欢乐；热闹 | |
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150
devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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151
perpendicularity
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| n.垂直，直立；垂直度 | |
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152
auditors
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| n.审计员，稽核员( auditor的名词复数 )；（大学课程的）旁听生 | |
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153
derisively
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| adv. 嘲笑地，嘲弄地 | |
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154
battalion
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| n.营；部队；大队(的人) | |
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155
prefix
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| n.前缀；vt.加…作为前缀；置于前面 | |
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156
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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157
conversing
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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158
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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159
disturbance
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| n.动乱，骚动；打扰，干扰；(身心)失调 | |
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retracing
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| v.折回( retrace的现在分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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161
relatively
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| adv.比较...地，相对地 | |
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162
saluting
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的现在分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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163
dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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164
obstructions
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| n.障碍物( obstruction的名词复数 )；阻碍物；阻碍；阻挠 | |
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165
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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166
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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167
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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