In London, at any rate, strong drink flows like a river. There are 5300 licensed5 houses in the metropolitan7 area alone. In Kilburn, a suburb of more or less irreproachable8 respectability, there are twenty-five churches and chapels9 and thirty-five public-houses.[Pg 145] During late years public-house property has begun to be looked upon in the light of a gilt-edged investment. Turn where one will, one finds the older inns are being swept away, while on their sites are erected10 flaring11 gin-palaces, with plate-glass fronts, elaborate mahogany fitments, gorgeous saloon and private bars, painted ceilings, inlaid floors, and electric light throughout. Behind the bar, instead of mine host of a former day and his wife and daughter, there are half a dozen perked-up barmaids with rouged12 cheeks and Rossetti hair, and a person called the manager, who for £2 a week runs the place for its proprietors13—a Limited Company, which owns, perhaps, twenty or thirty other houses. In the conduct of these mammoth14 drinking-places three great points are kept in view: namely, that a quick-drinking, stand-up trade pays better than any amount of slow regular custom; that the English drinker of the lower class cannot tell the difference between good drink and bad, often preferring, indeed, the bad to the good;[Pg 146] and that, as bad liquor is cheaper than good, the sound commercial thing to do is to supply bad liquor.
With these admirable axioms continually before it, the English trade has prospered15 amazingly. More drink and worse drink is sold in England to-day than has ever been sold in England before. Through legislation intended to ensure sound liquor and the proper conduct of licensed houses the proprietors have consistently made a point of driving the usual brewer's dray. "In order to meet the Food and Drugs Adulteration Act, all spirits sold at this establishment, while of the same excellent quality as heretofore, are diluted17 according to strength." "The same excellent quality as heretofore" is choice, and so is "diluted according to strength." As for the beer, we dilute16 also the beer according to strength. When we are caught at it, it is a mistake on the part of the cellarman, who has been discharged; and the fine is so small in proportion to the profit on selling water, that we smile at the back of[Pg 147] our necks and keep on diluting18 according to strength. Our whole system, in fact, is designed to make people drink, and to make them drink the worst that we dare put before them.
Now, the Scot, drunkard or no drunkard, does have something of a taste in liquor. The best clarets have gone to Scotland (in spite of Mr. Crosland) since claret became a dinner wine. You cannot put off a Scot with either bad whisky or bad beer. He knows what whisky should be and what beer should be, and in Scotland, at any rate, he never has any difficulty in getting them. But the English, taking them in the mass, are quite the other way. Any sort of wine, provided it be properly fortified19 and sophisticated, passes with them for the real thing. Their Scotch20 whisky is about the most wholesome21 thing they drink; but large quantities of this are bought by English merchants in a crude state, and rammed22 down the public throat without a thought to maturing, blending, and otherwise rendering23 the spirit[Pg 148] potable. English beer, we have been told in song and story, is the finest beer in the world. Yet nobody can visit an English brewery24 without discovering that English beer is not English beer at all. Glucose25 in the place of malt, quassia and gentian in the place of hops26, finings in the place of storage, are the universal order; and so depraved and perverted27 has the fine old English taste in beer become that brewers who have set up to provide an honest article and sent it out to their customers have had it returned with the curt28 comment that "nobody would drink such hog-wash, and what the customers wanted was beer, and not brewer's apron29." Every now and again scares crop up in consequence of the use of improper30 ingredients; there is an inquiry31, a Royal Commission, and the Englishman still goes on stolidly32 drinking. Arsenic33 will not drive him away from his favourite tipple34, neither will cocculus indicus or any of the round dozen abominations upon which the brewer's chemist takes his stand.
[Pg 149]
If there is one thing more than another that is considered the chief necessity of life in the English household of the poorer class, it is beer, and its sister beverage35, porter. From morning till night the can is continually going between the house of the artisan and the neighbouring "public." The first thing in the morning the artisan himself must have a couple of goes of rum and milk; by eleven o'clock he is ready for a pint36 of four-half; at noon, when he knocks off for dinner, he will imbibe37 a quart or more of the same beverage; and at night, after work, he sits in the taproom till closing-time, and drinks as much as ever he can pay for or chalk up. Meanwhile, his wife must have her drop of porter in the morning, her drop of bitter to dinner, and her drop of something hot before going to bed. Also on Saturday afternoons, when the twain go marketing38 together, they must have a few drinks, just to show there is no ill-feeling; while on Saturday night the artisan not infrequently improves the shining hours by "getting[Pg 150] blind," to use his own elegant phrase. Thus it quite commonly happens that a third and even a half of the total income of a household of the artisan class is spent in alcohol. Thrift39, provision for a rainy day and for old age, become an impossibility. Underfeeding usually walks hand in hand with overdrinking; the man loses his nerve, the woman her comeliness40 and her capacity; and the end is pauperism41 and a pauper's grave, if nothing worse.
Among the English middle and upper classes there is distinctly a greater tendency to moderation than among the lower classes. For all that, the middle classes especially can point to a great many brilliant examples of the fine art of soaking. Publicans, betting-men, commercial travellers, proprietors of businesses, solicitors42' clerks, journalists, and the like get through an amount of drinking in the course of a day which would probably appal43 even themselves if they kept an account of it. "Let's 'ave a drink," is invariably one of the first phrases dropped when[Pg 151] two Englishmen meet. "We'll 'ave another" is sure to follow; and so is, "'Ang it, man! we must have a final." Among the middle classes, too, as also among the upper classes, there is a very great deal of secret drinking, particularly among women and persons whose professional or official positions necessitate44 the maintenance of an appearance of extreme respectability. The grocer's license6 and his fine stock of carefully selected wines and spirits offer a ready means of supply to the female dipsomaniac, who would not be seen in a public-house for worlds; besides, gin can be charged as tea in a grocery account, and many a bottle of brandy has figured in such accounts under the innocent pseudonym45 of "rolled ox-tongue."
Though the English upper classes, as I have said, drink with a certain moderation, their moderation really embraces a quantity of liquor which would send the artisan quite off his head. Whiskies-and-sodas at noon, Burgundy at lunch, with cognac to one's[Pg 152] coffee, three kinds of wine at dinner, followed by liqueurs and whisky, make no appreciable46 mark on a man who is living at his ease and can sleep as long as he likes; but the sum total of alcohol is quite considerable, and probably greater than that consumed by the "drunken sot" for whom my lord has such contempt.
Of English drinking, generally, one may remark that it is done in a very deliberate and unsociable way. The English cannot be said to drink for company's sake. They do not foregather and carry on their drinking merrily. In their cups they are neither witty47 nor happy, but just dull and dour48 and inclined to be quarrelsome. They drink for drinking's sake,—for the sake of intoxication49, and to drown trouble. I wish them good luck and less of their vile50 concoctions51!
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1 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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2 bard | |
n.吟游诗人 | |
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3 retaliate | |
v.报复,反击 | |
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4 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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5 licensed | |
adj.得到许可的v.许可,颁发执照(license的过去式和过去分词) | |
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6 license | |
n.执照,许可证,特许;v.许可,特许 | |
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7 metropolitan | |
adj.大城市的,大都会的 | |
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8 irreproachable | |
adj.不可指责的,无过失的 | |
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9 chapels | |
n.小教堂, (医院、监狱等的)附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 );(在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的)礼拜仪式 | |
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10 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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11 flaring | |
a.火焰摇曳的,过份艳丽的 | |
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12 rouged | |
胭脂,口红( rouge的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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13 proprietors | |
n.所有人,业主( proprietor的名词复数 ) | |
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14 mammoth | |
n.长毛象;adj.长毛象似的,巨大的 | |
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15 prospered | |
成功,兴旺( prosper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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16 dilute | |
vt.稀释,冲淡;adj.稀释的,冲淡的 | |
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17 diluted | |
无力的,冲淡的 | |
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18 diluting | |
稀释,冲淡( dilute的现在分词 ); 削弱,使降低效果 | |
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19 fortified | |
adj. 加强的 | |
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20 scotch | |
n.伤口,刻痕;苏格兰威士忌酒;v.粉碎,消灭,阻止;adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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21 wholesome | |
adj.适合;卫生的;有益健康的;显示身心健康的 | |
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22 rammed | |
v.夯实(土等)( ram的过去式和过去分词 );猛撞;猛压;反复灌输 | |
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23 rendering | |
n.表现,描写 | |
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24 brewery | |
n.啤酒厂 | |
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25 glucose | |
n.葡萄糖 | |
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26 hops | |
跳上[下]( hop的第三人称单数 ); 单足蹦跳; 齐足(或双足)跳行; 摘葎草花 | |
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27 perverted | |
adj.不正当的v.滥用( pervert的过去式和过去分词 );腐蚀;败坏;使堕落 | |
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28 curt | |
adj.简短的,草率的 | |
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29 apron | |
n.围裙;工作裙 | |
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30 improper | |
adj.不适当的,不合适的,不正确的,不合礼仪的 | |
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31 inquiry | |
n.打听,询问,调查,查问 | |
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32 stolidly | |
adv.迟钝地,神经麻木地 | |
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33 arsenic | |
n.砒霜,砷;adj.砷的 | |
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34 tipple | |
n.常喝的酒;v.不断喝,饮烈酒 | |
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35 beverage | |
n.(水,酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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36 pint | |
n.品脱 | |
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37 imbibe | |
v.喝,饮;吸入,吸收 | |
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38 marketing | |
n.行销,在市场的买卖,买东西 | |
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39 thrift | |
adj.节约,节俭;n.节俭,节约 | |
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40 comeliness | |
n. 清秀, 美丽, 合宜 | |
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41 pauperism | |
n.有被救济的资格,贫困 | |
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42 solicitors | |
初级律师( solicitor的名词复数 ) | |
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43 appal | |
vt.使胆寒,使惊骇 | |
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44 necessitate | |
v.使成为必要,需要 | |
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45 pseudonym | |
n.假名,笔名 | |
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46 appreciable | |
adj.明显的,可见的,可估量的,可觉察的 | |
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47 witty | |
adj.机智的,风趣的 | |
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48 dour | |
adj.冷酷的,严厉的;(岩石)嶙峋的;顽强不屈 | |
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49 intoxication | |
n.wild excitement;drunkenness;poisoning | |
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50 vile | |
adj.卑鄙的,可耻的,邪恶的;坏透的 | |
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51 concoctions | |
n.编造,捏造,混合物( concoction的名词复数 ) | |
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