I
First Impressions
My first impressions of New York are enormously to enhance the effect of this Progress, this material progress, that is to say, as something inevitable1 and inhuman2, as a blindly furious energy of growth that must go on. Against the broad and level gray contours of Liverpool one found the ocean liner portentously3 tall, but here one steams into the middle of a town that dwarfs4 the ocean liner. The sky-scrapers that are the New-Yorker's perpetual boast and pride rise up to greet one as one comes through the Narrows into the Upper Bay, stand out, in a clustering group of tall irregular crenellations, the strangest crown that ever a city wore. They have an effect of immense incompleteness; each one seems to await some needed terminal,—to be, by virtue5 of its woolly jets of steam, still as it were in process of eruption6. One thinks of St. Peter's great blue dome7, finished[Pg 36] and done as one saw it from a vine-shaded wine-booth above the Milvian Bridge, one thinks of the sudden ascendency of St. Paul's dark grace, as it soars out over any one who comes up by the Thames towards it. These are efforts that have accomplished9 their ends, and even Paris illuminated10 under the tall stem of the Eiffel Tower looked completed and defined. But New York's achievement is a threatening promise, growth going on under a pressure that increases, and amidst a hungry uproar11 of effort.
One gets a measure of the quality of this force of mechanical, of inhuman, growth as one marks the great statue of Liberty on our larboard, which is meant to dominate and fails absolutely to dominate the scene. It gets to three hundred feet about, by standing12 on a pedestal of a hundred and fifty; and the uplifted torch, seen against the sky, suggests an arm straining upward, straining in hopeless competition with the fierce commercial altitudes ahead. Poor liberating13 Lady of the American ideal! One passes her and forgets.
Happy returning natives greet the great pillars of business by name, the St. Paul Building, the World, the Manhattan tower; the English new-comer notes the clear emphasis of the detail, the freedom from smoke and atmospheric14 mystery that New York gains from burning anthracite, the jetting white steam clouds that emphasize that freedom. Across the broad harbor plies15 an unfamiliar16 traffic[Pg 37] of grotesque17 broad ferry-boats, black with people, glutted18 to the lips with vans and carts, each hooting19 and yelping20 its own distinctive21 note, and there is a wild hurrying up and down and to and fro of piping and bellowing22 tugs23 and barges24; and a great floating platform, bearing a railway train, gets athwart our course as we ascend8 and evokes25 megatherial bellowings. Everything is moving at a great speed, and whistling and howling, it seems, and presently far ahead we make out our own pier26, black with expectant people, and set up our own distinctive whoop27, and with the help of half a dozen furiously noisy tugs are finally lugged28 and butted29 into dock. The tugs converse30 by yells and whistles, it is an affair of short-tempered mechanical monsters, amidst which one watches for one's opportunity to get ashore31.
Noise and human hurry and a vastness of means and collective result, rather than any vastness of achievement, is the pervading32 quality of New York. The great thing is the mechanical thing, the unintentional thing which is speeding up all these people, driving them in headlong hurry this way and that, exhorting33 them by the voice of every car conductor to "step lively," aggregating34 them into shoving and elbowing masses, making them stand clinging to straps35, jerking them up elevator shafts36 and pouring them on to the ferry-boats. But this accidental great thing is at times a very great thing. Much more impressive than the sky-scrapers to my mind is the large Brooklyn suspension-bridge. I have never[Pg 38] troubled to ask who built that; its greatness is not in its design, but in the quality of necessity one perceives in its inanimate immensity. It tells, as one goes under it up the East River, but it is far more impressive to the stranger to come upon it by glimpses, wandering down to it through the ill-paved van-infested streets from Chatham Square. One sees parts of Cyclopean stone arches, one gets suggestive glimpses through the jungle growth of business now of the back, now of the flanks, of the monster; then, as one comes out on the river, one discovers far up in one's sky the long sweep of the bridge itself, foreshortened and with a maximum of perspective effect; the streams of pedestrians37 and the long line of carts and vans, quaintly38 microscopic39 against the blue, the creeping progress of the little cars on the lower edge of the long chain of netting; all these things dwindling40 indistinguishably before Brooklyn is reached. Thence, if it is late afternoon, one may walk back to City Hall Park and encounter and experience the convergent41 stream of clerks and workers making for the bridge, mark it grow denser42 and denser, until at last they come near choking even the broad approaches of the giant duct, until the congested multitudes jostle and fight for a way. They arrive marching afoot by every street in endless procession; crammed43 trolley-cars disgorge them; the Subway pours them out.... The individuals count for nothing, they are clerks and stenographers, shop-men, shop-girls, workers of innumerable types, black-[Pg 39]coated men, hat-and-blouse girls, shabby and cheaply clad persons, such as one sees in London, in Berlin, anywhere. Perhaps they hurry more, perhaps they seem more eager. But the distinctive effect is the mass, the black torrent44, rippled45 with unmeaning faces, the great, the unprecedented46 multitudinousness of the thing, the inhuman force of it all.
bridge
ENTRANCE TO BROOKLYN BRIDGE
I made no efforts to present any of my letters, or to find any one to talk to on my first day in New York. I landed, got a casual lunch, and wandered alone until New York's peculiar47 effect of inhuman noise and pressure and growth became overwhelming, touched me with a sense of solitude48, and drove me into the hospitable49 companionship of the Century Club. Oh, no doubt of New York's immensity! The sense of soulless gigantic forces, that took no heed50 of men, became stronger and stronger all that day. The pavements were often almost incredibly out of repair, when I became footweary the street-cars would not wait for me, and I had to learn their stopping-points as best I might. I wandered, just at the right pitch of fatigue51 to get the full force of it into the eastward52 region between Third and Fourth Avenue, came upon the Elevated railway at its worst, the darkened streets of disordered paving below, trolley-car-congested, the ugly clumsy lattice, sonorously53 busy overhead, a clatter54 of vans and draught-horses, and great crowds of cheap, base-looking people hurrying uncivilly by....
[Pg 40]
II
The Coming of White Marble
I corrected that first crowded impression of New York with a clearer, brighter vision of expansiveness when next day I began to realize the social quality of New York's central backbone55, between Fourth Avenue and Sixth. The effect remained still that of an immeasurably powerful forward movement of rapid eager advance, a process of enlargement and increment56 in every material sense, but it may be because I was no longer fatigued57, was now a little initiated58, the human being seemed less of a fly upon the wheels. I visited immense and magnificent clubs—London has no such splendors59 as the union, the University, the new hall of the Harvard—I witnessed the great torrent of spending and glittering prosperity in carriage and motor-car pour along Fifth Avenue. I became aware of effects that were not only vast and opulent but fine. It grew upon me that the Twentieth Century, which found New York brown-stone of the color of desiccated chocolate, meant to leave it a city of white and colored marble. I found myself agape, admiring a sky-scraper—the prow60 of the Flat-iron Building, to be particular, ploughing up through the traffic of Broadway and Fifth Avenue in the afternoon light. The New York sundown and twilight61 seemed to me quite glorious things. Down the western streets one gets the sky hung in long cloud-barred strips,[Pg 41] like Japanese paintings, celestial62 tranquil63 yellows and greens and pink luminosity toning down to the reeking64 blue-brown edge of the distant New Jersey65 atmosphere, and the clear, black, hard activity of crowd and trolley-car and Elevated railroad. Against this deepening color came the innumerable little lights of the house cliffs and the street tier above tier. New York is lavish66 of light, it is lavish of everything, it is full of the sense of spending from an inexhaustible supply. For a time one is drawn67 irresistibly68 into the universal belief in that inexhaustible supply.
At a bright table in Delmonico's to-day at lunch-time, my host told me the first news of the destruction of the great part of San Francisco by earthquake and fire. It had just come through to him, it wasn't yet being shouted by the newsboys. He told me compactly of dislocated water-mains, of the ill-luck of the unusual eastward wind that was blowing the fire up-town, of a thousand reported dead, of the manifest doom69 of the greater portion of the city, and presently the shouting voices in the street outside arose to chorus him. He was a newspaper man and a little preoccupied70 because his San Francisco offices were burning, and that no further news was arriving after these first intimations. Naturally the catastrophe71 was our topic. But this disaster did not affect him, it does not seem to have affected72 any one with a sense of final destruction, with any foreboding of irreparable disaster. Every one is[Pg 42] talking of it this afternoon, and no one is in the least degree dismayed. I have talked and listened in two clubs, watched people in cars and in the street, and one man is glad that Chinatown will be cleared out for good; another's chief solicitude73 is for Millet's "Man with the Hoe." "They'll cut it out of the frame," he says, a little anxiously. "Sure." But there is no doubt anywhere that San Francisco can be rebuilt, larger, better, and soon. Just as there would be none at all if all this New York that has so obsessed74 me with its limitless bigness was itself a blazing ruin. I believe these people would more than half like the situation. It would give them scope, it would facilitate that conversion75 into white marble in progress everywhere, it would settle the difficulties of the Elevated railroad and clear out the tangles76 of lower New York. There is no sense of accomplishment77 and finality in any of these things, the largest, the finest, the tallest, are so obviously no more than symptoms and promises of Material Progress, of inhuman material progress that is so in the nature of things that no one would regret their passing. That, I say again, is at the first encounter the peculiar American effect that began directly I stepped aboard the liner, and that rises here to a towering, shining, clamorous78 climax79. The sense of inexhaustible supply, of an ultra-human force behind it all, is, for a time, invincible80.
One assumes, with Mr. Saltus, that all America is in this vein81, and that this is the way the future must[Pg 43] inevitably82 go. One has a vision of bright electrical subways, replacing the filth83-diffusing railways of to-day, of clean, clear pavements free altogether from the fly-prolific filth of horses coming almost, as it were, of their own accord beneath the feet of a population that no longer expectorates at all; of grimy stone and peeling paint giving way everywhere to white marble and spotless surfaces, and a shining order, of everything wider, taller, cleaner, better....
So that, in the meanwhile, a certain amount of jostling and hurry and untidiness, and even—to put it mildly—forcefulness may be forgiven.
III
Ellis Island
I visited Ellis Island yesterday. It chanced to be a good day for my purpose. For the first time in its history this filter of immigrant humanity has this week proved inadequate84 to the demand upon it. It was choked, and half a score of gravid liners were lying uncomfortably up the harbor, replete85 with twenty thousand or so of crude Americans from Ireland and Poland and Italy and Syria and Finland and Albania; men, women, children, dirt, and bags together.
Of immigration I shall have to write later; what concerns me now is chiefly the wholesale86 and multitudinous quality of that place and its work. I made my way with my introduction along white[Pg 44] passages and through traps and a maze87 of metal lattices that did for a while succeed in catching88 and imprisoning89 me, to Commissioner90 Wachorn, in his quiet, green-toned office. There, for a time, I sat judicially91 and heard him deal methodically, swiftly, sympathetically, with case after case, a string of appeals against the sentences of deportation92 pronounced in the busy little courts below. First would come one dingy93 and strangely garbed94 group of wild-eyed aliens, and then another: Roumanian gypsies, South Italians, Ruthenians, Swedes, each under the intelligent guidance of a uniformed interpreter, and a case would be started, a report made to Washington, and they would drop out again, hopeful or sullen95 or fearful as the evidence might trend....
Down-stairs we find the courts, and these seen, we traverse long refectories, long aisles96 of tables, and close-packed dormitories with banks of steel mattresses97, tier above tier, and galleries and passages innumerable, perplexing intricacy that slowly grows systematic98 with the Commissioner's explanations.
Here is a huge, gray, untidy waiting-room, like a big railway-depot room, full of a sinister99 crowd of miserable100 people, loafing about or sitting dejectedly, whom America refuses, and here a second and a third such chamber101 each with its tragic102 and evil-looking crowd that hates us, and that even ventures to groan103 and hiss104 at us a little for our glimpse of its large dirty spectacle of hopeless failure, and here, squalid enough indeed, but still to some degree[Pg 45] hopeful, are the appeal cases as yet undecided. In one place, at a bank of ranges, works an army of men cooks, in another spins the big machinery105 of the Ellis Island laundry, washing blankets, drying blankets, day in and day out, a big clean steamy space of hurry and rotation106. Then, I recall a neat apartment lined to the ceiling with little drawers, a card-index of the names and nationalities and significant circumstances of upward of a million and a half of people who have gone on and who are yet liable to recall.
The central hall is the key of this impression. All day long, through an intricate series of metal pens, the long procession files, step by step, bearing bundles and trunks and boxes, past this examiner and that, past the quick, alert medical officers, the tallymen and the clerks. At every point immigrants are being picked out and set aside for further medical examination, for further questions, for the busy little courts; but the main procession satisfies conditions, passes on. It is a daily procession that, with a yard of space to each, would stretch over three miles, that any week in the year would more than equal in numbers that daily procession of the unemployed107 that is becoming a regular feature of the London winter, that in a year could put a cordon108 round London or New York of close-marching people, could populate a new Boston, that in a century—What in a century will it all amount to?...
On they go, from this pen to that, pen by pen,[Pg 46] towards a desk at a little metal wicket—the gate of America. Through this metal wicket drips the immigration stream—all day long, every two or three seconds an immigrant, with a valise or a bundle, passes the little desk and goes on past the well-managed money-changing place, past the carefully organized separating ways that go to this railway or that, past the guiding, protecting officials—into a new world. The great majority are young men and young women, between seventeen and thirty, good, youthful, hopeful, peasant stock. They stand in a long string, waiting to go through that wicket, with bundles, with little tin boxes, with cheap portmanteaus, with odd packages, in pairs, in families, alone, women with children, men with strings109 of dependents, young couples. All day that string of human beads110 waits there, jerks forward, waits again; all day and every day, constantly replenished111, constantly dropping the end beads through the wicket, till the units mount to hundreds and the hundreds to thousands....
Yes, Ellis Island is quietly immense. It gives one a visible image of one aspect at least of this world-large process of filling and growing and synthesis, which is America.
"Look there!" said the Commissioner, taking me by the arm and pointing, and I saw a monster steamship112 far away, and already a big bulk looming113 up the Narrows. "It's the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. She's got—I forget the exact figures, but[Pg 47] let us say—eight hundred and fifty-three more for us. She'll have to keep them until Friday at the earliest. And there's more behind her, and more strung out all across the Atlantic."
In one record day this month 21,000 immigrants came into the port of New York alone; in one week over 50,000. This year the total will be 1,200,000 souls, pouring in, finding work at once, producing no fall in wages. They start digging and building and making. Just think of the dimensions of it!
IV
To Fall River
One must get away from New York to see the place in its proper relations. I visited Staten Island and Jersey City, motored up to Sleepy Hollow (where once the Headless Horseman rode), saw suburbs and intimations of suburbs without end, and finished with the long and crowded spectacle of the East River as one sees it from the Fall River boat. It was Friday night, and the Fall River boat was in a state of fine congestion114 with Jews, Italians, and week-enders, and one stood crowded and surveyed the crowded shore, the sky-scrapers and tenement-houses, the huge grain elevators, big warehouses115, the great Brooklyn Bridge, the still greater Williamsburgh Bridge, the great promise of yet another monstrous116 bridge, overwhelmingly monstrous by any European ex[Pg 48]ample I know, and so past long miles of city to the left and to the right past the wide Brooklyn navy-yard (where three clean white war-ships lay moored), past the clustering castellated asylums117, hospitals, almshouses and reformatories of Blackwell's long shore and Ward's Island, and then through a long reluctant diminuendo on each receding118 bank, until, indeed, New York, though it seemed incredible, had done.
And at one point a grave-voiced man in a peaked cap, with guide-books to sell, pleased me greatly by ending all idle talk suddenly with the stentorian119 announcement: "We are now in Hell Gate. We are now passing through Hell Gate!"
But they've blown Hell Gate open with dynamite120, and it wasn't at all the Hell Gate that I read about in my boyhood in the delightful121 chronicle of Knickerbocker.
So through an elbowing evening (to the tune122 of "Cavalleria Rusticana" on an irrepressible string band) and a night of unmitigated fog-horn to Boston, which I had been given to understand was a cultured and uneventful city offering great opportunities for reflection and intellectual digestion123. And, indeed, the large quiet of Beacon124 Street, in the early morning sunshine, seemed to more than justify125 that expectation....
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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inhuman
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| adj.残忍的，不人道的，无人性的 | |
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portentously
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dwarfs
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| n.侏儒，矮子（dwarf的复数形式）vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的第三人称单数形式） | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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eruption
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| n.火山爆发；（战争等）爆发；（疾病等）发作 | |
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dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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illuminated
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uproar
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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liberating
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| 解放，释放( liberate的现在分词 ) | |
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atmospheric
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plies
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| v.使用（工具）( ply的第三人称单数 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
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unfamiliar
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grotesque
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| adj.怪诞的，丑陋的；n.怪诞的图案，怪人（物） | |
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glutted
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| v.吃得过多( glut的过去式和过去分词 )；（对胃口、欲望等）纵情满足；使厌腻；塞满 | |
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hooting
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| （使）作汽笛声响，作汽车喇叭声( hoot的现在分词 )； 倒好儿； 倒彩 | |
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yelping
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distinctive
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bellowing
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tugs
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barges
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evokes
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| 产生，引起，唤起( evoke的第三人称单数 ) | |
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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whoop
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| n.大叫，呐喊，喘息声；v.叫喊，喘息 | |
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lugged
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butted
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converse
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ashore
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pervading
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exhorting
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aggregating
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straps
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| n.带子( strap的名词复数 )；挎带；肩带；背带v.用皮带捆扎( strap的第三人称单数 )；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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pedestrians
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quaintly
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microscopic
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| adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的 | |
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dwindling
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convergent
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denser
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| adj. 不易看透的, 密集的, 浓厚的, 愚钝的 | |
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crammed
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torrent
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rippled
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| 使泛起涟漪（ripple的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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unprecedented
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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heed
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| v.注意，留意；n.注意，留心 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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sonorously
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| adv.圆润低沉地；感人地；堂皇地；朗朗地 | |
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clatter
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| v./n.(使)发出连续而清脆的撞击声 | |
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55
backbone
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| n.脊骨，脊柱，骨干；刚毅，骨气 | |
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increment
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| n.增值，增价；提薪，增加工资 | |
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57
fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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58
initiated
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| n. 创始人 adj. 新加入的 vt. 开始，创始，启蒙，介绍加入 | |
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59
splendors
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| n.华丽( splendor的名词复数 )；壮丽；光辉；显赫 | |
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60
prow
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| n.(飞机)机头，船头 | |
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61
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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celestial
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| adj.天体的；天上的 | |
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tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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reeking
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| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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jersey
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| n.运动衫 | |
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66
lavish
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| adj.无节制的；浪费的；vt.慷慨地给予，挥霍 | |
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67
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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irresistibly
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| adv.无法抵抗地，不能自持地；极为诱惑人地 | |
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doom
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| n.厄运，劫数；v.注定，命定 | |
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preoccupied
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| adj.全神贯注的，入神的；被抢先占有的；心事重重的v.占据（某人）思想，使对…全神贯注，使专心于( preoccupy的过去式) | |
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71
catastrophe
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| n.大灾难，大祸 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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73
solicitude
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| n.焦虑 | |
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obsessed
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| adj.心神不宁的,鬼迷心窍的,沉迷的 | |
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conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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76
tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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accomplishment
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| n.完成，成就，（pl.）造诣，技能 | |
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clamorous
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| adj.吵闹的，喧哗的 | |
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climax
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| n.顶点；高潮；v.(使)达到顶点 | |
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invincible
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| adj.不可征服的，难以制服的 | |
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vein
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| n.血管，静脉；叶脉，纹理；情绪；vt.使成脉络 | |
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82
inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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83
filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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inadequate
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| adj.(for,to)不充足的，不适当的 | |
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replete
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| adj.饱满的，塞满的；n.贮蜜蚁 | |
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wholesale
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| n.批发；adv.以批发方式；vt.批发，成批出售 | |
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maze
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| n.迷宫，八阵图，混乱，迷惑 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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imprisoning
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| v.下狱，监禁( imprison的现在分词 ) | |
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commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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judicially
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| 依法判决地，公平地 | |
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deportation
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| n.驱逐，放逐 | |
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dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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garbed
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| v.（尤指某类人穿的特定）服装，衣服，制服( garb的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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sullen
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| adj.愠怒的，闷闷不乐的，(天气等)阴沉的 | |
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aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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mattresses
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| 褥垫，床垫( mattress的名词复数 ) | |
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systematic
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| adj.有系统的，有计划的，有方法的 | |
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sinister
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| adj.不吉利的，凶恶的，左边的 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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101
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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103
groan
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| vi./n.呻吟，抱怨；(发出)呻吟般的声音 | |
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104
hiss
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| v.发出嘶嘶声；发嘘声表示不满 | |
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105
machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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106
rotation
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| n.旋转；循环，轮流 | |
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107
unemployed
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| adj.失业的，没有工作的；未动用的，闲置的 | |
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108
cordon
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| n.警戒线，哨兵线 | |
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109
strings
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| n.弦 | |
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110
beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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111
replenished
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| 补充( replenish的过去式和过去分词 )； 重新装满 | |
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112
steamship
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| n.汽船，轮船 | |
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113
looming
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| n.上现蜃景（光通过低层大气发生异常折射形成的一种海市蜃楼）v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的现在分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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114
congestion
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| n.阻塞，消化不良 | |
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115
warehouses
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| 仓库，货栈( warehouse的名词复数 ) | |
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116
monstrous
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| adj.巨大的；恐怖的；可耻的，丢脸的 | |
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117
asylums
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| n.避难所( asylum的名词复数 )；庇护；政治避难；精神病院 | |
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118
receding
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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119
stentorian
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| adj.大声的，响亮的 | |
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120
dynamite
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| n./vt.(用)炸药(爆破) | |
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121
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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122
tune
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| n.调子；和谐，协调；v.调音，调节，调整 | |
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123
digestion
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| n.消化，吸收 | |
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124
beacon
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| n.烽火，（警告用的）闪火灯，灯塔 | |
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125
justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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