From Turin I went by train to Milan. I ought to have gone direct past Magenta2, but by some mistake I found myself making quite a round-about journey, via Piacenza and Lodi; however, all’s well that ends well. I arrived at the hotel in Milan in time for table d’h?te. Now, although I am writing a book principally on travels and adventures in Egypt and the Soudan, I dare say my readers will excuse me if I attempt a description of my travels out and home. All the places I visited were extremely interesting to me, and I cannot forbear a little gossip and relating what I know respecting them. Those who have not visited these places will perhaps be pleased[14] to read my description, and those who have will be able to compare notes and see if they are correct. I had been told that the best time to visit Il Duomo—the Cathedral—was at eight or nine o’clock in the morning, on account of the splendid view obtainable from the roof; this I did on the morning following my arrival, and was richly rewarded for my trouble. Il Duomo is certainly a magnificent structure, inferior in magnitude to St. Peter’s at Rome, but in some respects not an unworthy rival. It is built of white marble, and is one of the most impressive ecclesiastical edifices4 in the world. In its present form it was commenced in 1387, and is not yet entirely5 completed. Its form is that of a Latin cross, divided into five naves6, terminated by an octagonal apsis, and supported by fifty-two octagonal pilasters of uniform size, except four, which, having to bear the cupola, are larger.
Around the exterior7 are 4,500 niches8, of which above 3,000 are already occupied by statues. In the interior everything is of the most imposing9 and gorgeous description. I said everything, but I should except an image of wax of the Virgin10 Mary, with the infant Saviour11 in her arms. The waxen face and arms looked very dirty, her attire12 was very commonplace-looking stuff, and I did not think her rather dirty-looking neck was much improved by a[15] bit of paltry-looking green ribbon encircling it. This image would certainly be more suitable at Madame Tussaud’s than in this beautiful cathedral. But I will finish with the exterior. The roof is a perfect forest of marble pinnacles13, nearly all crammed14 with most valuable marble statues. The celebrated15 marble flower-bed contains several thousand flowers, each distinct and each different in design. I leave the roof and ascend16 the tower, from which I obtain a magnificent view of the Alpine17 range, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, the St. Bernard and Matterhorn right away to the Superga and Mont Cenis.
In the interior we notice the rich stained-glass windows of the choir18, comprising about 350 subjects of Biblical history, the Gothic decorations of the sacristy, the candelabra in front of the altar shaped like a tree, and decorated with jewels, then the Chapel19 of St. Borromeo, which is a subterranean20 chapel of a most gorgeous and costly21 character, as it is one mass of jewels. The shrine22 and walls are silver, all inlaid with gold and precious stones. If I remember rightly, I paid a franc extra for my visit here, and had the gratification of seeing the embalmed23 body of St. Borromeo, with the valuable rings of office still on his fingers. A golden crown (presented by the unfortunate Maria Teresa)[16] is suspended over his head, and a large crucifix of splendid emeralds lies on his chest—this, I am told, was given by the Empress of Austria.
Of course, in Milan, as in all large towns in Italy, there are any number of beautiful and remarkable24 churches. Among the most remarkable edifices are the church of Sant’ Ambrogio, founded by St. Ambrose in 387, the churches of Sant’ Eustargio, San Lorenzo, Santa Maria delle Grazie, with a cupola and sacristy by Bramante, and the celebrated Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci; Santa Maria della Passione, a majestic25 edifice3, with excellent paintings and a magnificent mausoleum; San Paolo, San Carlo Borromeo, &c.
Immediately adjoining the Cathedral is a magnificent square, which was finished on the occasion of the Austrian Emperor’s visit to Milan in 1875. This is called the Piazza del Duomo. From this square I pass through the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, a very fine glass-roofed arcade26, or gallery, connecting the Piazza del Duomo with the Scala Theatre; the cost of this was about ￡320,000. It was commenced in 1865 and opened in 1867. The glass canopy27 is illuminated28 by 2,000 jets of gas, and when these and the beautiful and brilliant shops are lighted the effect is charming. The length of this kind of covered street is 320 yards. La Scala[17] Theatre was not open for performances when I was there, but by the judicious29 disposition30 of a franc or so I obtained admission just to see it. It is, I understand, capable of accommodating 3,600 spectators. I next strolled on to the Piazza d’Armi, which occupies an immense space, obtained by the demolition31 of the citadel32 and its outworks. Part of it has been converted into an amphitheatre, 800 feet long by 400 feet broad, used in summer for races and shows, and capable of containing 30,000 spectators. The castle, now a barrack, fronts the Piazza d’Armi on one side; at the opposite side is the Porta Sempione, with the fine Arco Sempione, or Arco della Pace. This is a lofty gateway33, with three passages, built of blocks of white marble, adorned34 with reliefs and statues, and bearing inscriptions35 commemorating36 the emancipation37 of Italy. My next visit was to the Palazzo di Brera, or Delle Scienze Lettere ed Arte, containing the Pinacoteca, or picture-gallery, with a very valuable collection of paintings and statuary, and containing also the library of the Academy (170,000 volumes). Besides this library, Milan possesses the Ambrosian library, the earliest and still one of the most valuable public libraries in Europe. There is also a valuable museum of natural history, a conservatory38 of music,[18] a military college, a theological seminary, and a veterinary school.
Though Milan is one of the most ancient towns in Lombardy, it has so often been partially39 destroyed and rebuilt that few antiquities40 remain. It is entered by eleven gates, several of which are magnificent. Its foundation is attributed to the Insubrian Gauls; but the first distinct notice of it occurs B.C. 221, when it was subdued41 by the Romans, under whom it acquired so much importance that in the division of the empire attributed to Constantine the Great it ranks as the second city of Italy. In the middle of the fifth century it was sacked by the Huns, under Attila, and again in the following century by the Goths; but greater horrors yet awaited it, for the Goths, who had been driven out by Belisarius, having regained42 possession by the aid of the Burgundians, gave it up to the flames, and put almost all its inhabitants to the sword. The most important manufactures are tobacco, silks, cottons, lace, carpets, hats, earthenware43, white-lead, jewelry44, and articles in gold and silver. The spinning and throwing of silk employs a large number of hands, and furnish the staple45 article of trade. The other principal articles are corn, rice, cheese, and wines.
In the evening of the second day (whilst engaged in the purchase of everything Milanese in the way[19] of photographs) I met with a Milan gentleman, who had lived some years in America, and who could speak English remarkably46 well. He was a genial47, good-hearted looking kind of fellow, and we soon got into an animated48 conversation. I was surprised to find how well up he was in English politics, and as for the Irish question, he could hold his own with any Englishman; he was, too, a great admirer of Lord Beaconsfield. When we had had about an hour’s chat I was about to return to my hotel; he then asked me how long I was going to remain in Milan. I told him I intended leaving next day for Bologna.
“Have you seen the lake of Como?” said he.
“No,” I replied. “I should like to do so very much, but fear I cannot spare the time, as I have to be at Brindisi on the 21st.”
“But you must not leave,” said he, “until you have been there; it is only a run of thirty miles to Como by rail. I live there. Come to-morrow and visit me, and I will put you in the way of seeing Bologna in half the time that you would do it in without assistance.”
This very kind offer I accepted, and spent next day a very agreeable time with my new acquaintance, who was most hospitable50 and friendly. We parted with mutual51 protestations of goodwill52, and[20] I took train for Bologna, which is several hours’ ride from Milan.
Bologna (anciently Bonovia) is one of the oldest, largest, and richest cities of Italy. It lies at the foot of the Apennines, between the Rivers Reno and Savena, 190 miles N.N.W. from Rome. It is five or six miles in circumference53, and is surrounded by an unfortified wall of brick; it has extensive manufactures of silk goods, velvet54, artificial flowers, &c. It struck me as being a quaint49 old city. All the houses, or nearly so, are built out over the shops and pavement, supported by large pillars, and forming a covered way nearly all over the city which affords shade and shelter to the foot-passengers.
Bologna was long renowned55 for its university, founded, according to tradition, by Theodosias, the younger, in 425, and restored by Charlemagne, which, in the centuries of barbarism, spread the light of knowledge all over Europe. It once had 10,000 students, but the number now averages only 300. The university formerly56 possessed57 so much influence, that even the coins of the city bore its motto—Bonovia docet. During 1400 years every new discovery in science and the arts found patrons here. The medical school is celebrated for having introduced the dissection58 of human bodies, and the[21] scientific journals prove that the love of investigation59 is still awake in Bologna. The chief square in the city, Piazza Maggiore, the forum60 in the Middle Ages, is adorned by several venerable buildings. Among them are the Palazzo Pubblico, which contains some magnificent halls, adorned with statues and paintings; Palazzo del Padesta, chiefly remarkable as having been the prison of Eugenis, King of Sardinia, and son of the Emperor Frederick II. who was captured and kept here by the Bolognese for more than twenty years, till his death; and the church or Ansilica of St. Petronio, which was commenced in 1390, and is not yet finished. The palaces and churches are too numerous to make any remarks on. The leaning towers, Degli Asmilli and Garisenda, dating from the twelfth century, are among the most remarkable objects in Bologna. The former is square, and of massive brick-work, built in three portions, and diminishing in diameter to the top. Its height is 321 feet, and its inclination61 from the perpendicular62 6ft. 10in. The Garisenda is 161 feet high, and inclines a little more than 8 feet. Bologna has always been famous for cheap living, and has been chosen as a residence by many literary men. Gourmands63 praise it as the native country of excellent maccaroni, sausages, liquors, and preserved fruits. The pilgrimage to[22] the Madonna di S. Lucca, whose church is situated64 at the foot of the Apennines, half a league distant from Bologna, and to which an arcade of 640 arches leads, annually65 attracts a great number of people from all parts of Italy. Bologna was founded by the Etruscans under the name of Felsina, before the foundation of Rome. In 189 B.C. it was made a Roman colony, and called Bonovia.
I had been told that the Certosa, or burying ground, was well worth a visit. It is about 2? miles outside the city by the Porta St. Isaia, so I took a cab and was well rewarded for my trouble, for this burying ground is the most beautiful and remarkable in Italy. Here we can walk for hours under cover between rows of statues and marble tablets of the greatest beauty. When I returned to my hotel I found dinner waiting, and afterwards it struck me that I must seek some more exhilarating mode of amusement after my visit to the Certosa. I accordingly made my way to the Teatro Communale, one of the three best theatres in Italy, San Carlos at Naples and La Scala in Milan taking precedence. The opera was “Mefistofele,” splendidly mounted and well supported by artistes. The orchestra was large and all that could be desired by the most fastidious critics, and there are plenty of them in a Bolognese[23] audience. Boxes are in every tier in the house, and the effect is very pretty.
As I had to start for Brindisi at 3 a.m. on Sunday, November 20th, I had not much time for sleep, notwithstanding which I got between the sheets until then, when I was conveyed to the station and finished my nap in the train.
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1
piazza
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| n.广场；走廊 | |
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magenta
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| n..紫红色（的染料）；adj.紫红色的 | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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naves
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| n.教堂正厅( nave的名词复数 )；本堂；中央部；车轮的中心部 | |
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exterior
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| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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niches
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| 壁龛( niche的名词复数 )； 合适的位置[工作等]； （产品的）商机； 生态位（一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位） | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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saviour
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| n.拯救者，救星 | |
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attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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crammed
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| adj.塞满的，挤满的；大口地吃；快速贪婪地吃v.把…塞满；填入；临时抱佛脚( cram的过去式) | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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choir
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| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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embalmed
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| adj.用防腐药物保存（尸体）的v.保存（尸体）不腐( embalm的过去式和过去分词 )；使不被遗忘；使充满香气 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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arcade
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| n.拱廊；(一侧或两侧有商店的)通道 | |
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canopy
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| n.天篷，遮篷 | |
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illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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judicious
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| adj.明智的，明断的，能作出明智决定的 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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demolition
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| n.破坏,毁坏,毁坏之遗迹 | |
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citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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commemorating
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| v.纪念，庆祝( commemorate的现在分词 ) | |
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emancipation
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| n.（从束缚、支配下）解放 | |
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conservatory
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| n.温室，音乐学院；adj.保存性的，有保存力的 | |
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partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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subdued
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| adj. 屈服的，柔和的，减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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regained
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| 复得( regain的过去式和过去分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
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43
earthenware
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| n.土器，陶器 | |
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jewelry
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| n.（jewllery）（总称）珠宝 | |
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45
staple
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| n.主要产物，常用品，主要要素，原料，订书钉，钩环；adj.主要的，重要的；vt.分类 | |
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46
remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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50
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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mutual
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| adj.相互的，彼此的；共同的，共有的 | |
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goodwill
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| n.善意，亲善，信誉，声誉 | |
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circumference
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| n.圆周，周长，圆周线 | |
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54
velvet
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| n.丝绒，天鹅绒；adj.丝绒制的，柔软的 | |
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55
renowned
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| adj.著名的，有名望的，声誉鹊起的 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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dissection
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| n.分析；解剖 | |
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investigation
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| n.调查，调查研究 | |
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forum
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| n.论坛，讨论会 | |
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inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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gourmands
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| n.喜欢吃喝的人，贪吃的人( gourmand的名词复数 )；美食主义 | |
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64
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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