March 23rd.—Leaving Khor-Maiatah at 8.45 a.m., we had an exceptionally unpleasant day of it. We had seen the last of that fine river, the Tacazze; now if water was wanted it could only be obtained by digging a few feet in the sandy river-beds. We travelled over mountains, plains, valleys, river-beds, and nearly all day through a forest of those horrid2 mimosas, finally arriving at Lakatakoora, in the Basé country, at 7 p.m., without the caravan. At about 11 p.m. Cheriff, with the canteen, Ali the cook, and a few only of the camels arrived.
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As we had not tasted food since about 1 p.m., Cheriff’s canteen was soon surrounded by us, and the contents of it cleared out in a very short time. Our dinner (which was a scanty3 one this time) did not appear until 12.30 a.m. Whilst this was being prepared by Ali we fired off rifles, burnt blue lights, and lighted a beacon4 fire for Suleiman with the hamlah to see where we were; but all to no purpose—they had lost their way. The moon retired5 for the night, and so many trees had to cut be down to enable them to come on, that at last they gave up the idea of attempting to find us, so slept out.
We also had rather a hard time of it. There was no choice of a camping-ground—there was but one. This was a large open space devoid6 of vegetation, but covered with a thick layer of impalpable dust, about an inch or so in thickness, infested7 with white ants. Fortunately our tents and bedding arrived. I did not wait for my tent to be pitched, but placed my bedding on the canvas covering of my tent on the ground, and there I managed to get through the night in a rather unsatisfactory manner. The other members of the party elected to remain up until their tents were pitched.
March 24th.—I passed a somewhat uncomfortable night amongst the white ants, lulled8 to sleep by the music of hy?nas, some of whom seem to[281] have been intensely amused at our situation, if one may judge from the bursts of merriment issuing from their camp, as they were evidently excited by uncontrollable fits of laughter, making the woods in the immediate9 neighbourhood resound10 by the exercise of their risible11 faculties12.
I awoke about 6.30 a.m., but did not arise until 7. Quite near to our camp I observed on a precipitous mountain side enormous basalt rocks, some single rocks as big as a good-sized house. This was the village of Lakatakoora; and amongst these rocks, concealed13 from view, lived some Basé. I had not been awake long ere many of the Basé ladies, covered with beads14, their eyelids15 and lips stained with kohl, rings in their noses and ears, and a strip of cloth around their waists, came and shook hands with me, murmuring “Mida” (good-day). Both men and women came in such increasing numbers that I decided16 to get up, and had to perform my toilet in their presence. They watched the whole performance with evident interest. Such a contrivance as a tooth-brush and tooth-powder elicited17 expressions of wonder and admiration18, but a hair-brush and comb pleased them still more. Water was scarce. I therefore had to wash à la Turk. Mahoom stood by me with a salmon19 tin full of water, pouring out little driblets[282] of water into my hands, finally douching my head with the remaining drop, about two ounces.
Our guide had been sent off at 6 a.m. in search of the lost portion of the caravan. He found it, and piloted it into our camp at 8.30 a.m. The Basé were very friendly and obliging in the way of water, for they brought us this invaluable20 liquid in very beautifully worked baskets, so closely woven that not a drop escaped, slung21 on the shoulder, like a pair of scales. They also brought us several gourds22 of wild honey, which we bought. Many beads and small looking-glasses were given to the ladies, who appeared highly delighted and amused when they saw their own faces reflected from a looking-glass for the first time in their lives. They crowded round the fortunate recipient23 of one of these reflectors, peeping over one another’s shoulders, giggling24 and laughing at their own reflection in a most amusing manner.
All being packed up by 10 a.m., we moved off a short distance, halting at Aboosalal at 12.30 p.m. on the sandy bed of a khor, surrounded on either side by lofty, precipitous rocks, along which scampered25 hundreds of enormous baboons26 and monkeys. Both men and camels seemed completely knocked up. A little way from camp was a little pool of water in this khor; and in the neighbourhood,[283] without exaggeration, were thousands upon thousands of doves and sand-grouse. I took my gun down there in the evening when they came to drink, and stationed myself behind a huge rock. In less than half-an-hour I bagged about 15 brace27 of sand-grouse and five brace of doves.
The day before we arrived here the natives had killed an elephant. They and the vultures had picked his bones pretty clean, as nothing but his skeleton remained when I saw it. His tusks28, of course, had been taken away. Later on they were offered to me by a Sheik’s son; but as they were damaged, small, and the price excessive, I was not a purchaser.
March 25.—Made a long march from Aboosalal to Sogoda, where water could be found. We started soon after 8 a.m., and long before we reached our destination darkness came on. This was a most unpleasant journey through prickly trees, again tearing our patched-up clothes and helmets. In one place we all got separated, each one selecting the way he thought best. I lost my way in a forest of kittar and mimosa bushes. I was obliged to dismount my camel, and presently got in such a fix that I could scarcely move either backwards29 or forwards. Noises became indistinct, and finally, I could not hear a sound. Others were, apparently,[284] in the same position as myself, for shots and revolvers resounded30 on all sides. Eventually we reached the camping ground in detachments at 8, 9, and 10 o’clock, dining at 11 p.m., bed at 12.30. In the evening, before dark, we came across the trail of a boa-constrictor, followed it up, and successfully despatched the reptile31, which measured 12 feet in length. The next day we pitched our tents at Fahncoub, on very good ground, surrounded by fine trees. Sogoda was a horrid place, the ground being covered with fine dust.
March 26th.—Starting from Fahncoub at 8.30 a.m., we once more reached Heikota at 11.30, having travelled a distance of 10 miles only. We found Herr Schumann, the animal collector, had gone, calling at Kassala, and taking all the animals with him to Souakin. I take the opportunity of sending a letter on to Kassala by Alki, who has been a very good trustworthy fellow, but who is now leaving us, as he has a bad whitlow.
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1 caravan | |
n.大蓬车;活动房屋 | |
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2 horrid | |
adj.可怕的;令人惊恐的;恐怖的;极讨厌的 | |
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3 scanty | |
adj.缺乏的,仅有的,节省的,狭小的,不够的 | |
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4 beacon | |
n.烽火,(警告用的)闪火灯,灯塔 | |
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5 retired | |
adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
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6 devoid | |
adj.全无的,缺乏的 | |
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7 infested | |
adj.为患的,大批滋生的(常与with搭配)v.害虫、野兽大批出没于( infest的过去式和过去分词 );遍布于 | |
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8 lulled | |
vt.使镇静,使安静(lull的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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9 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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10 resound | |
v.回响 | |
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11 risible | |
adj.能笑的;可笑的 | |
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12 faculties | |
n.能力( faculty的名词复数 );全体教职员;技巧;院 | |
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13 concealed | |
a.隐藏的,隐蔽的 | |
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14 beads | |
n.(空心)小珠子( bead的名词复数 );水珠;珠子项链 | |
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15 eyelids | |
n.眼睑( eyelid的名词复数 );眼睛也不眨一下;不露声色;面不改色 | |
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16 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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17 elicited | |
引出,探出( elicit的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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18 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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19 salmon | |
n.鲑,大马哈鱼,橙红色的 | |
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20 invaluable | |
adj.无价的,非常宝贵的,极为贵重的 | |
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21 slung | |
抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 ); 吊挂; 遣送; 押往 | |
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22 gourds | |
n.葫芦( gourd的名词复数 ) | |
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23 recipient | |
a.接受的,感受性强的 n.接受者,感受者,容器 | |
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24 giggling | |
v.咯咯地笑( giggle的现在分词 ) | |
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25 scampered | |
v.蹦蹦跳跳地跑,惊惶奔跑( scamper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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26 baboons | |
n.狒狒( baboon的名词复数 ) | |
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27 brace | |
n. 支柱,曲柄,大括号; v. 绷紧,顶住,(为困难或坏事)做准备 | |
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28 tusks | |
n.(象等动物的)长牙( tusk的名词复数 );獠牙;尖形物;尖头 | |
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29 backwards | |
adv.往回地,向原处,倒,相反,前后倒置地 | |
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30 resounded | |
v.(指声音等)回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 );产生回响;(指某处)回荡着声音 | |
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31 reptile | |
n.爬行动物;两栖动物 | |
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