“Handkerchiefs and linens2 are not woolen4. Certain plants, cotton, hemp5, flax, and not sheep, furnish them; for, you see, I don’t know much about those things myself. I have heard tell of the cotton plant, but have never seen it. And, besides, I am afraid talking to you will make me cut the sheep’s skin.”
In the evening, at Jules’s request, they took up the history of the materials with which we clothe ourselves, and Uncle Paul explained their nature.
“The outside of hemp and flax is composed of long threads, very fine, supple6, and tenacious7, from which we manufacture our fabrics9. We clothe ourselves with the spoils of the sheep, we make ourselves fine with the bark of the plant. The fabrics of luxury, cambric, tulle, gauze, point-lace, Mechlin lace, are made from flax; the stronger ones, even to coarse sacking, are of hemp. The cotton plant gives us the fabrics made of cotton.
“Flax is a slender plant with little delicate blue flowers, and is sown and harvested every year. It is much cultivated in Northern France, Belgium, and Holland. It is the first plant used by man for woven fabrics. Mummies of Egypt, the old land of Moses and the patriarchs, mummies which have lain buried four thousand years and more, are swathed in bands of linen3.”
Flax
“Mummies, did you say?” interposed Jules. “I don’t know what they are.”
“I will tell you, my dear child. Respect for the dead is found among all people and in all ages. Man regards as sacred what was the seat of a soul made in the image of God; he honors the dead, but the honors rendered differ according to time, place, customs. We inter10 the dead and put over the burial place a tombstone with an inscription11, or at least a humble12 cross, divine emblem13 of life eternal. The ancients burned them on a funeral pile; they piously14 gathered the bones bleached16 by the fire and inclosed them in priceless vases. In Egypt, to preserve the cherished remains17 for the family, they embalmed18 the dead; that is to say, they impregnated them with aromatics19 and swathed them in linen to prevent decomposition20. These pious15 duties were so delicately performed that, after centuries and centuries, we find intact in their chests of sweet-smelling wood, but dried and blackened by years, contemporaries of the ancient kings of Egypt, or the Pharaohs. These are what are called mummies.
“Hemp has been cultivated all over Europe for many centuries. It is an annual, of a strong, nauseous odor, with little, green, dull-looking flowers, whose stem, of the thickness of a quill21 pen, rises to about two meters. It is cultivated, like flax, both for its bark and for its grain, called hemp-seed.”
“That is the grain, I think,” said Emile, “we give the goldfinch, which it cracks with its beak22 when it breaks the shell to get out the little kernel23.”
“Yes, hemp-seed is the feast of little birds.
“The bark of the hemp has not the fineness of flax. The fibers25 of this latter plant are so fine that twenty-five grams of tow spun26 on the spinning-wheel furnishes a thread almost a league long. The spider’s web alone can rival in delicacy27 certain linen fabrics.
“When hemp and flax reach maturity28, they are harvested, and the seeds are separated by thrashing. The next operation, retting, then takes place, its purpose being to render the filaments29 of the bark, or the fibers, as they are called, easily separable from the wood. These fibers, in fact, are pasted to the stem and stuck together by a gummy substance that is very resistant30 and prevents separation until it is destroyed by rot. They sometimes do this retting by spreading the plants in the fields for a couple of weeks and turning them over now and then, until the tow detaches itself from the woody part or hemp-stalk.
“But the quickest way is to tie the flax and hemp in bundles and keep them submerged in a pond. There soon follows a rot which gives out intolerable smells; the bark decays, and the fiber24, endowed with exceptional resistance, is freed.
“Then the bundles are dried; after that they crush them between the jaws31 of an instrument called a brake, to crush the stems into small pieces and separate the tow. Finally, to purge32 the tow of all woody refuse and to divide it into the finest threads, they pass it between the iron teeth of a sort of big comb called a heckle. In this state, the fiber is spun either by hand or by machine. The thread obtained is ready for weaving.
“On a loom33 they place in order, side by side, numerous threads composing what they call the warp34. By turns, impelled35 by a pedal on which the operator’s foot presses, one half of these threads descends36 while the other half ascends37. At the same time the operator passes a transverse thread in a shuttle through the two halves of the warp, from left to right, then from right to left. From this inter-crossing comes the woven fabric8. And it is finished; the garb38 of the plant has changed masters; the bark of the hemp has become cloth, that of flax a princely lace worth some hundreds of francs by the piece.”
点击收听单词发音
1 attentively | |
adv.聚精会神地;周到地;谛;凝神 | |
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2 linens | |
n.亚麻布( linen的名词复数 );家庭日用织品 | |
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3 linen | |
n.亚麻布,亚麻线,亚麻制品;adj.亚麻布制的,亚麻的 | |
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4 woolen | |
adj.羊毛(制)的;毛纺的 | |
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5 hemp | |
n.大麻;纤维 | |
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6 supple | |
adj.柔软的,易弯的,逢迎的,顺从的,灵活的;vt.使柔软,使柔顺,使顺从;vi.变柔软,变柔顺 | |
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7 tenacious | |
adj.顽强的,固执的,记忆力强的,粘的 | |
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8 fabric | |
n.织物,织品,布;构造,结构,组织 | |
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9 fabrics | |
织物( fabric的名词复数 ); 布; 构造; (建筑物的)结构(如墙、地面、屋顶):质地 | |
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10 inter | |
v.埋葬 | |
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11 inscription | |
n.(尤指石块上的)刻印文字,铭文,碑文 | |
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12 humble | |
adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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13 emblem | |
n.象征,标志;徽章 | |
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14 piously | |
adv.虔诚地 | |
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15 pious | |
adj.虔诚的;道貌岸然的 | |
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16 bleached | |
漂白的,晒白的,颜色变浅的 | |
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17 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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18 embalmed | |
adj.用防腐药物保存(尸体)的v.保存(尸体)不腐( embalm的过去式和过去分词 );使不被遗忘;使充满香气 | |
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19 aromatics | |
n.芳香植物( aromatic的名词复数 );芳香剂,芳香药物 | |
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20 decomposition | |
n. 分解, 腐烂, 崩溃 | |
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21 quill | |
n.羽毛管;v.给(织物或衣服)作皱褶 | |
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22 beak | |
n.鸟嘴,茶壶嘴,钩形鼻 | |
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23 kernel | |
n.(果实的)核,仁;(问题)的中心,核心 | |
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24 fiber | |
n.纤维,纤维质 | |
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25 fibers | |
光纤( fiber的名词复数 ); (织物的)质地; 纤维,纤维物质 | |
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26 spun | |
v.纺,杜撰,急转身 | |
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27 delicacy | |
n.精致,细微,微妙,精良;美味,佳肴 | |
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28 maturity | |
n.成熟;完成;(支票、债券等)到期 | |
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29 filaments | |
n.(电灯泡的)灯丝( filament的名词复数 );丝极;细丝;丝状物 | |
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30 resistant | |
adj.(to)抵抗的,有抵抗力的 | |
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31 jaws | |
n.口部;嘴 | |
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32 purge | |
n.整肃,清除,泻药,净化;vt.净化,清除,摆脱;vi.清除,通便,腹泻,变得清洁 | |
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33 loom | |
n.织布机,织机;v.隐现,(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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34 warp | |
vt.弄歪,使翘曲,使不正常,歪曲,使有偏见 | |
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35 impelled | |
v.推动、推进或敦促某人做某事( impel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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36 descends | |
v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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37 ascends | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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38 garb | |
n.服装,装束 | |
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