Near the sepoys' tents long lines of mules3 picketed4 by their feet stood by the guns; and further on baggage-camels, lying down, were hardly distinguishable from the russet grass and the scorched5 ochre sand.
There are two towns of Peshawur: one a distracted, silly place, with no beginning nor end, straggling along something in the manner of Madras, with an embryonic6 bazaar7 and all the amusements demanded by soldiers; the other enclosed in walls of dried mud, which are preserved only "to protect the town from robbers."
In this Peshawur the houses are crowded along narrow, crooked8 alleys9, and there is but one rather wider street of shops, which here already have a quite[Pg 242] Persian character, having for sale only the products of Cabul or Bokhara. The balconies, the shutters10, the verandahs and galleries are of wood inlaid in patterns like spider-net. The timbers are so slight that they would seem quite useless and too fragile to last; and yet they are amazingly strong, and alone remain in place, amid heaps of stones, in houses that have fallen into ruin. In the streets, the contrast is strange, of tiny houses with the Afghans, all over six feet high, superb men wearing heavy dhotis of light colours faded to white, still showing in the shadow of the folds a greenish-blue tinge11 of dead turquoise12. Solemn and slow, or motionless in statuesque attitudes while they converse13 in few words, and never gesticulate, they are very fine, with a fierce beauty; their large, open eyes are too black, and their smile quite distressingly14 white in faces where the muscles look stiff-set. Even the children, in pale-hued silk shirts, are melancholy15, languid, spiritless, but very droll16, too, in their little pointed17 caps covered with gold braid, and the finery of endless metal necklaces, and bangles on their ankles and arms.
In one of the alleys by the outer wall was a little house with a door in carved panels framing[Pg 243] inlaid work as delicate as woven damask. A crowd surrounding it could not be persuaded by Abibulla's eloquence18 to make way for me, a suspicious-looking stranger.
In this house abode19 the postmaster of the Persian mails, and I wanted to register a letter for Cabul.
Abibulla delivered a long harangue20 through the closed door; at last a wicket was opened, framing an eye. I was invited to approach, and then, after examination, the wicket in the polished door was abruptly21 closed!
There was a sort of murmur22 behind the door, like reciting a prayer, then louder tones, indeed a very loud shout, repeated three times by several voices at once; and then the one alone continued in a dull chant. The door was half opened and I was beckoned23, but to enter alone.
On the threshold I was desired to take off my shoes, because I was going into the presence of a holy man. As I crossed the forecourt fresh and ferocious24 shouts rang out; a curtain was lifted, and in a room scarcely lighted by a tiny window, the air thick with smoke, I could just make out a number of men, all standing25, very excited, gesticulating wildly, and once more they shouted their savage26 cry.
[Pg 244]
At the back of the room the master of the house squatted27 on the floor, dressed in green richly embroidered28 with gold, and on his head was a vase-shaped cap or tiara of astrakhan. Near him, in an armchair, sat a perfectly29 naked fakir, his breast covered with jade30 necklaces. His face was of superhuman beauty, emaciated31, with a look of suffering, his eyes glowing with rapt ecstasy32. He seemed to be entranced, seeing nothing but a vision, and intoxicated33 by its splendour.
Then starting to his feet, and stretching out his arm to point at me, he poured forth34 invective35 in sharp, rapid speech. The words flowed without pause:—
"Dog! traitor36! cruel wretch37! eater of meat!——"
And then seeing that I did not go, that on wakening again from his dream I was still there, he fixed38 his eyes on me and caught sight of a medal that I wear.
"Kali?" he asked.
"No; the Virgin39 Mary."
"What is the Virgin Mary?"
"The mother of Christ."
"Ah, your Kali, then?"
"No; Kali is a cruel, bloodthirsty goddess, while the Virgin——"
[Pg 245]
He interrupted me:
"She is the mother of Christ, you say? You are a stranger, and you cannot know all the mischief40 they do us in the name of her Son."
While I was talking to the postmaster the fakir smoked a hookah, burning amber41 powder and rose-leaves. The air was full of the narcotic42 fragrance43; a piercing perfume that mounted to the brain.
Another fakir, a young man, had come to sit at the elder's feet, and when I had finished my business the "holy man" began to knead his disciple's muscles, wringing44 and disjointing his arms and dislocating his left shoulder; and, as if in mockery of my distressed45 expression, he bent46 the lad's back inwards till his face was between his heels, and left him for a long minute in that torturing position.
When at last the boy was allowed to return to his place in a corner he sat quite still, his eyes staring stupidly and shedding large tears, though not a muscle of his face moved.
In the close-shut room the air, loaded with scent47 and smoke, was quite unbreathable; musicians playing behind a partition added to the irritating effect of all this perfume and noise.
As I was leaving, the fakir rose amid the cries of all the people, who clamoured for his blessing48. He[Pg 246] silenced them by a sign, then laying one hand on my shoulder, after looking at my medal—
"Farewell," said he, "and may the Almighty49 protect you, for you look kind."
The throng50 outside had increased; Abibulla could scarcely make way for me to the end of the street, and for a long time I could still hear the cries that reached us at a distance.
Off next morning to the Khyber Pass. The road lay across the vast monotonous51 plain, richly productive all the way from Peshawur to the foot of the hills. At one end of a field some men had spread a net and were beating the field towards the corners with a heavy rope that broke down the tall oats; before long the birds were seen struggling under the meshes52, but they were soon caught and carried away in cages.
Outside the fort which guards the opening of the pass there was confusion; a mad scurry53 of men, running, shouting, hustling54. Quite a complicated mêlée of animals bolting, elephants and camels let loose and impossible to overtake, but caught at last.
After the delay, which in India is a matter of course, the caravan55 set out—the last to go; for during the past three months no European had[Pg 247] crossed the pass, and in consequence of misunderstandings with some of the rebel tribes to the north, even the natives were prohibited henceforth from going to Cabul.
First went six armed regulars, then a party on horseback, for the most part Persians, one of whom was carrying in his arms an enormous sheaf of roses, which hid him completely and drooped56 over the saddle.
Suddenly there was a panic among the horses; they shied, reared, and bolted across the fields, and the road being cleared, the elephants belonging to the Ameer of Cabul went by, to march at the head of the caravan. Next came a thousand camels, also the Ameer's; like the elephants, they carried no baggage, but on the back of one female was a young one, tied into a basket, born only the day before, all white and woolly.
Asses57 followed, oxen and more camels, loaded beyond their strength with old iron, tin pannikins, a whole cargo58 of goods in cases from Manchester and Sheffield—so badly packed that things came clattering59 down as the beasts pushed each other amid oaths and blows.
Women porters came on foot, hidden under bales, nets full of crocks, faggots, and trusses of hay.[Pg 248] Children, and women in sarees—fine ladies—had nothing to carry; some were wrapped in yashmacks, shrouding60 them from head to foot with a little veil of transparent61 muslin over their eyes.
And to close the procession came more soldiers.
After inspecting my little permit to visit the Khyber, the officials at the fort had placed in my carriage a soldier of the native Khyber rifle-corps, six feet six in height, placid62 and gentle. When I got out of the carriage to walk up a hill he would follow a yard or so behind, and watching all my movements, looked rather as if he were taking me to prison than like an escort to protect me.
We left the caravan far behind. In the gorge63 with its rosy64-pink soil the silence was exquisite65, the air had the freshness of a mountain height, and quite inexplicably66 amid these barren rocks, where there was not a sign of vegetation, there was a scent of honey and almonds.
Children were selling whortleberries in plaited baskets; they came up very shyly, and as soon as they had sold their spoil hurried back to hide in their nook. Further on a little Afghan boy, standing alone and motionless by the roadside, held out three eggs for sale.
At a turn in the road the view opened out to a[Pg 249] distant horizon; the plain of Peshawur, intensely green in contrast with the rosy tone of the foreground; and far away the Himalayas, faintly blue with glaciers67 of fiery68 gold in the sun, against a gloomy sky where the clouds were gathering69.
Between the cliff-walls of the defile70, in a sort of bay, stands Ali Musjid, a little white mosque71 where travellers tarry to pray.
Deeply graven in the stone of one of the walls is the giant hand of Ali the Conqueror72, the terrible, who came from the land of the Arabs, killing73 all on his way who refused to be converted to Islam. And he died in the desolate74 Khyber, where all who pass do him honour, and entreat75 his protection on their way.
Above the mausoleum a fort with battlements towers over the pass, "an impregnable position," the guides tell us.
A company of the Khyber Rifles are quartered there in the old buildings and the officers' deserted76 bungalows77; over all hangs an atmosphere of icy desolation and overpowering melancholy. Above our heads a flight of eagles wheeled against the sky.
As we stood up there the caravan for Cabul came in sight on the road below, and slowly disappeared wrapped in dust, with mechanical steadiness and[Pg 250] without a sound. After that came the other train of travellers from Peshawur, singing to the accompaniment of mule-bells, every sound swelled78 by the echo. Children's laughter came up to our ears, the scream of an elephant angry at being stopped—even at a distance we could still hear them a little—and then silence fell again under the flight of the eagles soaring in circles further and further away as they followed the caravan.
Close to us on each level spot of the scarped rock was a little fortified79 look-out where three or four soldiers kept watch, with here and there a larger tower, reached only by a ladder, and in these six or eight men.
Beyond this point among the mountains the road seemed to vanish, to lead nowhere, lost in pale red among the red cliffs, as if it stopped at the foot of the rocky wall.
As we went back we found the roses carried in the morning by the Persian strewn on the ground in front of the Ali Musjid, and over them a flock of birds with red beaks80 were fluttering.
Then at Peshawur again in the evening, girls, with groups of soldiers in red jackets or Scotch81 kilts; the common women were horrible, whitened,[Pg 251] with loose shirts and tight-fitting trousers. One alone sat at her window wreathed about with mindi flowers in the crude light of a lamp. The others accosted82 the passer-by, laughing and shouting in shrill83 tones.
In one room we heard music—guzlas, drums, and a vina. There were three dancing-girls. At first they only performed the Indian "goose-step," the slow revolutions growing gradually quicker. But urged by the soldiers who filled the room and beat time with their sticks on the floor, the nautch-girls marked their steps, wriggled84 with heavy awkward movements, and tried to dance a Highland85 jig86, taught by two Scotch soldiers.
A dark street corner where there were no shops. Under a canopy87 constructed of four bamboos thatched with straw, a young man in a light-coloured dhoti was sitting on a low stool; about him were women singing. Presently one of them came forward, and dipping her fingers into three little copper88 pots that stood on the ground in front of the youth, she took first oil, then a green paste, and finally some perfume with which she touched seven spots—the lad's feet, knees, shoulders, and turban. Then she wiped her fingers on the saree of the bridegroom's mother—for he was to be[Pg 252] married on the morrow—who was standing behind her son.
After her another woman repeated the ceremony, and then they went away, still singing. This went on for part of the evening. When it was all over they went to eat rice at the bridegroom's house, and meanwhile the same ceremony had been performed with the bride, whom her neighbours had taken it by turns to anoint and perfume, in a house closed against prying89 eyes.
When the dead are to be honoured in this land each true believer lays a pebble90 as homage91 on the tomb, and the dead man's repute is estimated by the size of the pile of stones that covers him.
Not far from Peshawur a legend had arisen concerning a certain Guru, that the holy man now underground grew taller every year by a foot, and the heap of stones grew longer day by day, till the English authorities had to interfere92 and place a guard of soldiers to check the encroachment93 of the tumulus on the high road.
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1
bagpipes
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| n.风笛；风笛( bagpipe的名词复数 ) | |
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bugles
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| 妙脆角，一种类似薯片但做成尖角或喇叭状的零食； 号角( bugle的名词复数 )； 喇叭； 匍匐筋骨草； （装饰女服用的）柱状玻璃（或塑料）小珠 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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picketed
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| 用尖桩围住（picket的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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scorched
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| 烧焦，烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（植物）枯萎，把…晒枯； 高速行驶； 枯焦 | |
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embryonic
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| adj.胚胎的 | |
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bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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8
crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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11
tinge
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| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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12
turquoise
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| n.绿宝石；adj.蓝绿色的 | |
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13
converse
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| vi.谈话，谈天，闲聊；adv.相反的，相反 | |
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14
distressingly
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| adv. 令人苦恼地；悲惨地 | |
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15
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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16
droll
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| adj.古怪的，好笑的 | |
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17
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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19
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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20
harangue
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| n.慷慨冗长的训话，言辞激烈的讲话 | |
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21
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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22
murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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23
beckoned
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| v.（用头或手的动作）示意，召唤( beckon的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24
ferocious
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| adj.凶猛的，残暴的，极度的，十分强烈的 | |
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25
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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26
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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27
squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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28
embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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29
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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30
jade
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| n.玉石；碧玉；翡翠 | |
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31
emaciated
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| adj.衰弱的，消瘦的 | |
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32
ecstasy
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| n.狂喜，心醉神怡，入迷 | |
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33
intoxicated
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| 喝醉的，极其兴奋的 | |
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34
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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35
invective
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| n.痛骂，恶意抨击 | |
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traitor
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| n.叛徒，卖国贼 | |
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37
wretch
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| n.可怜的人，不幸的人；卑鄙的人 | |
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38
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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39
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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40
mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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41
amber
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| n.琥珀；琥珀色；adj.琥珀制的 | |
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42
narcotic
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| n.麻醉药，镇静剂；adj.麻醉的，催眠的 | |
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43
fragrance
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| n.芬芳，香味，香气 | |
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44
wringing
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| 淋湿的，湿透的 | |
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45
distressed
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| 痛苦的 | |
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46
bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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47
scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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48
blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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49
almighty
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| adj.全能的，万能的；很大的，很强的 | |
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50
throng
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| n.人群，群众；v.拥挤，群集 | |
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51
monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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52
meshes
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| 网孔( mesh的名词复数 )； 网状物； 陷阱； 困境 | |
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53
scurry
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| vi.急匆匆地走；使急赶；催促；n.快步急跑，疾走；仓皇奔跑声；骤雨，骤雪；短距离赛马 | |
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54
hustling
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| 催促（hustle的现在分词形式） | |
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55
caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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56
drooped
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| 弯曲或下垂，发蔫( droop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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57
asses
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| n. 驴，愚蠢的人，臀部 adv. (常用作后置)用于贬损或骂人 | |
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58
cargo
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| n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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59
clattering
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| 发出咔哒声（clatter的现在分词形式） | |
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60
shrouding
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| n.覆盖v.隐瞒( shroud的现在分词 )；保密 | |
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61
transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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62
placid
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| adj.安静的，平和的 | |
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63
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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64
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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65
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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66
inexplicably
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| adv.无法说明地，难以理解地，令人难以理解的是 | |
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67
glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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68
fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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69
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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70
defile
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| v.弄污，弄脏；n.(山间)小道 | |
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71
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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72
conqueror
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| n.征服者，胜利者 | |
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73
killing
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| n.巨额利润；突然赚大钱，发大财 | |
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74
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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entreat
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| v.恳求，恳请 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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77
bungalows
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| n.平房( bungalow的名词复数 )；单层小屋，多于一层的小屋 | |
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78
swelled
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| 增强( swell的过去式和过去分词 )； 肿胀； （使）凸出； 充满（激情） | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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80
beaks
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| n.鸟嘴( beak的名词复数 )；鹰钩嘴；尖鼻子；掌权者 | |
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81
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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82
accosted
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| v.走过去跟…讲话( accost的过去式和过去分词 )；跟…搭讪；（乞丐等）上前向…乞讨；（妓女等）勾搭 | |
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83
shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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84
wriggled
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| v.扭动，蠕动，蜿蜒行进( wriggle的过去式和过去分词 )；（使身体某一部位）扭动；耍滑不做，逃避（应做的事等） | |
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85
highland
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| n.(pl.)高地，山地 | |
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86
jig
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| n.快步舞（曲）；v.上下晃动；用夹具辅助加工；蹦蹦跳跳 | |
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87
canopy
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| n.天篷，遮篷 | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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89
prying
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| adj.爱打听的v.打听，刺探（他人的私事）( pry的现在分词 )；撬开 | |
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90
pebble
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| n.卵石，小圆石 | |
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91
homage
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| n.尊敬，敬意，崇敬 | |
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92
interfere
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| v.(in)干涉，干预；(with)妨碍，打扰 | |
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encroachment
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| n.侵入，蚕食 | |
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