But darkness now reigned1 within our cheerless abode2. Candles that will burn for more than ten minutes together, or afford light sufficient either to read or write, are luxuries which have no existence in so primitive3 and benighted4 a land; and strips of old cotton rag dipped in unpurified bees’ wax, forming, like most other good things in the empire, a royal monopoly, are doled5 out by the purveyor-general to the favoured few with but a niggard hand; whilst the absence of glass or other transparent7 substance, and the continued presence of rain, sleet8, clouds, and fog thicker than the steam of a wash-house, rendered it for some time difficult to admit the scanty9 light of heaven during its fitful visits through the overcast10 atmosphere.
Wood, too, belongs exclusively to the despot, and is far from being abundant in the timberless realm; but packing cases, as they became empty, were furnished with a sheet of oiled parchment, and these admirable substitutes for glazed11 sashes, were, in defiance12 of exhortations13 not to deface the king’s walls, inserted therein from time to time. A chafing14 dish, raised upon a high mud pedestal, at length cheered the long dreary15 evenings, although the wet sodden16 fuel yielded a very feeble blaze, whilst its dense17 smoke, choking the chimneyless room, covered walls and roof with soot18. Last, but not least among our improvements, were tallow dips, which we manufactured of the fat tail of the Ethiopian sheep, and these afforded us sufficient light by which to retire to bed, where fleas19, revived by the unwonted warmth of English blankets, denied all rest.
The low moaning of the storm behind Mamrat, and the distant growl20 of the thunder, usually ushered21 in the night. There was a sound as of the surf breaking over a rocky shore, and before many minutes the hurricane was at its height. Crashing reverberations of thunder rattled22 among the serrated cliffs, whilst the gates of heaven poured forth23 a deluge24, which rendered every lane and footpath25 throughout the town, ankle deep in running water.
Often after one of those falls of rain so common in tropical countries, the face of the lowlands for fifty miles would be concealed26 under an impenetrable fog. The spectator rode upon a sea of billowy clouds which rolled beneath his foot, lashing27 with their spray the dark islands formed by the peaks of the higher mountains: and beyond, in the hot Adel plain might be seen the Háwash winding28 through the distance, until melted into the limits of the horizon. As the great bank ascended29, all around became wet and clammy to the touch; and the mist, although sluggish30 and slow to move, was of a nature so keenly searching, that in defiance of all muffling31, it seemed to penetrate32 to our very bones.
Together with those privations which are common to a residence among all savage33 nations, there are many which Abyssinia claims exclusively as her own; nor, if viewed only as a place of abode, does the country possess aught save the salubrity of the climate to counterbalance its manifold discomforts34 and disadvantages. Although in the midst of abundance, we experienced the utmost difficulty in obtaining the most common necessaries of existence—bread, meat, and water; and notwithstanding that a sufficiency of wheat to sustain life for an entire year may be purchased for one German crown, yet where the stranger is concerned, the grain, without the assistance of the monarch35, can scarcely be converted into the staff of life—the process entailing36 all the petty worry and annoyance37 which in other lands are solely38 undertaken and performed by menials.
In a kingdom where the inhabitants are solely dependent upon the exertions39 of slaves, the difficulties are increased ten-fold to those who are obliged to employ hired domestics. The markets are at a great distance from the capital, and held at long intervals41; nor are they ever so well supplied as to admit of the requisite42 weekly stock being purchased at any individual place. Hence much trouble and inconvenience arose from the necessity of dispatching messengers simultaneously43 to the various remote bazaars44; and very great difficulty was experienced in preserving even the small number of live stock required for consumption in a country where all the surrounding meadows pertain45 alike to the crown, and where labour is so difficult to be procured46.
Whilst porters are not to be obtained unless through a direct mandate47 from the king, the unwillingness48 of mule-owners to hire their cattle at the existing low rate, the displeasure and heartburning of the authorities if a larger bribe49 were offered, the badness of the roads, and the steepness of the hills, all combine to render it a perplexing matter to dispense50 with this species of service. On the other hand, the greatest difficulty is experienced in providing for a permanent establishment of baggage-horses with their attendants, owing to the existing necessity of distributing them in small lots among the limited private grazing grounds in the vicinity, whence, when wanted, they are not to be obtained without infinite difficulty.
Every arrangement, however minute in detail, or trivial in importance, here demands a sacrifice of time and temper in a tedious and lengthy51 conference, which, in accordance with the custom of the country, must be carried on by the principal persons engaged in the transaction. No article is readily to be purchased, nor can any thing, how trifling52 soever, be accorded without the royal mandate, and when that is at last obtained, the applicant53 would appear to be further than ever removed from the realisation of his object. “It is done,” is the mode of signifying that a request is granted, and the despot believes that to will is to accomplish; but whilst his commands are usually obeyed more to the letter than in the spirit in which they have been given, his public officers embrace every opportunity of consulting the interests of the privy54 purse, to the stranger’s disadvantage.
In utter abhorrence55 of the country and its inhabitants, the Moslem56 servants who accompanied the Embassy from India all took their departure, willing rather to brave the dangers and difficulties of a long journey through the inhospitable deserts of the Ada?el, than to prolong a hateful sojourn57 in Abyssinia. One half of the number were murdered on the way down, and the places of all long remained empty. In any part of the world it would be difficult to find domestics inferior to their Christian58 successors. The consumption of brundo, or raw beef, and the sleeping off a surfeit59 which, in its progress towards stupor60, exhilarated them to positive intoxication61, formed the sum total of their services; yet every idle noisy vagabond who was in the receipt of four pieces of salt per mensem, with the promise of a new cloth annually62, value three shillings and nine-pence sterling63, held himself entitled to a permanent place before the drawingroom fire.
All stipulated64 for one day out of the thirty on which to drink cosso, and during the other twenty-nine, few ever stirred without grumbling65. Honesty is not prominent among the Abyssinian virtues66, and the lack of it sometimes redounded67 to the discredit68 of the master. A youth who was entrusted69 with a dollar to purchase sheep in the adjacent market, ingeniously contrived70 to smuggle71 into the flock, two for which he had not paid, being convinced that such an economical arrangement must prove highly agreeable to his employers, and thus lead to his own advancement72. A hue73 and cry was raised on the discovery of the theft, and it required some time to persuade the magisterial74 authorities that the goat-herd75 had not been defrauded76 with the cognisance of the bála-beit. (Master of the house.)
An áfero, or janissary, had been specially77 appointed as a spy over the actions of the foreigners, and he rendered himself sufficiently78 obnoxious79. Not satisfied with prying80 into the contents of boxes for the information of the purveyor-general, his immediate81 superior, he reported to the throne every the most minute circumstance that occurred; and besides originating several ingenious falsehoods, was so indefatigable82 in proclaiming us to be heretics, that he was shortly turned out of the house in disgrace, with an order never to show his face again.
Ethiopia derived83 her faith from the fountain of Alexandria; but how is her Christianity disfigured by folly84 and superstition85! The intolerance of the bigoted86 clergy87, who rule with the iron hand of religious ascendancy88, soon proclaimed the British worse than Pagans, for the non-observance of absurd fasts, and blasphemous89 doctrines90; and the inhabitants, priest-ridden to a degree, received their cue of behaviour principally from their most despotic tyrant91, the Church. Unquies, the Comus or Bishop92 of Shoa, was the most open and undisguised in his hostilities93. Beset94 by evil thoughts at an early age, he imitated the example set by the celebrated95 Origenes; and so much is he respected by the monarch for his austerities and religious devotion, that His Majesty96 invariably speaks of him as “the strong monk97.” To him was traced a report that the Embassy were to be summarily expelled the country, in consequence of the non-observance of the fasts prescribed by the Ethiopic creed98, and because a Great Lady, whose spies they were, was on her way from the sea-coast, with a large military force, to overturn the true religion, put the king to death, and assume possession of all Abyssinia.
On the festival of the Holy Virgin99, the cemetery100 was thrown open, wherein rest the remains101 of Asfa Woosen, grandsire to Sáhela Selássie. It is a building adjoining the church of Saint Mary; and being anxious to visit the mausoleum, I sent a message to the Lord Bishop, requesting permission to do so. An insolent102 reply was returned, that since the English were in the habit of drinking coffee and smoking tobacco, both of which Mohammadan abominations are interdicted103 in Shoa upon religious grounds, we could not be admitted within the precincts of the hallowed edifice104, as it would be polluted by the foot of a Gyptzi.
Nevertheless, we were permitted to attend Divine service in the less inimical of the five churches of the capital, and offerings were made according to the custom of the country. The cathedral of Saint Michael, distinguished105 above all its compeers by a sort of Chinese lantern on the apex106, being invariably attended by the monarch, came first in order; and after wading107 through the miry kennels108 that form the avenues of access, our slippers109 were put off in accordance with Jewish prejudice, and giving them in charge of a servant to prevent their being stolen, we stepped over the threshold. The scowling110 eye of the bigoted and ignorant priest sparkled with a gleam of unrepressed satisfaction at the sight of a rich altar-cloth, glowing with silk and gold, which was now unfolded to his gaze; and a smile of delight played around the corners of his mouth, as the hard dollars rung in his avaricious111 palm.
A strange, though degrading and humiliating sight, rewarded the admittance we had thus gained to the circular interior of the sacred building. Coarse walls, only partially112 white-washed, rose in sombre earth but a few feet overhead, and the suspended ostrich-egg—emblem113 of heathenish idolatry—almost touched our heads as we were ushered in succession to the seat of honour among the erudite. In a broad verandah, strewed114 throughout with dirty wet rushes, were crowded the blind, the halt, and the lame—an unwashed herd of sacred drones, muffled115 in the skin of the agázin; but beyond this group of turbaned monks116 and hireling beggars there was no congregation present.
The high-priest having proclaimed the munificence117 of the strangers, pronounced his solemn benediction118. Then arose a burst of praise the most agonising and unearthly that ever resounded119 from dome40 dedicated120 to Christian worship. No deep mellow121 chant from the chorister—no soul-inspiring anthem122, lifted the heart towards heaven. The Abyssinian cathedral rang alone to the excruciating jar of most unmitigated discord123; and amid howling and screaming, each sightless orb124 was rolled in the socket125, and every mutilated limb convulsed with disgusting vehemence126. A certain revenue is attached to the performance of the duty; and for one poor measure of black barley127 bread, the hired lungs were taxed to extremity128; but not the slightest attempt could be detected at music or modulation129; and the dissonant130 chink of the timbrel was ably seconded by the cracked voice of the mercenary vocalist.
No liturgy131 followed the cessation of these hideous132 screams. The service was at an end, and the Alaka, beckoning133 us to follow, led the way round the edifice. The walls were adorned134 with a few shields, and with miserable135 daubs representing the Madonna, the Holy Trinity in caelo, the Father of Evil enveloped136 in flames, Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Saint George and his green dragon, Saint Demetrius vanquishing137 the lion, Saint Tekla Ha?manót, Saint Balaam and his ass6, the Patron Saint, and every other saint in the Abyssinian calendar. But they boasted of no sculptured monument raised to departed worth or genius—no proud banner or trophy138 of heroic deeds—and no marble tablet to mark the quiet rest of the soldier, the statesman, or the scholar. In the holy of holies, which may be penetrated139 by none save the high-priest, is deposited the sacred tabot, or ark of the faith, consecrated140 at Gondar by the delegate of the Coptic patriarch; and around the veil that fell before this mysterious emblem, there hung in triumph four sporting pictures, from the pencil of Alken, which I had lately presented to His Majesty. They represented the great Leicestershire steeple-chase; and Dick Christian, with his head in a ditch, occupied by far the most prominent niche141 in the boasted cathedral of Saint Michael!
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1
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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benighted
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| adj.蒙昧的 | |
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doled
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| 救济物( dole的过去式和过去分词 )； 失业救济金 | |
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ass
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| n.驴；傻瓜，蠢笨的人 | |
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transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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8
sleet
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| n.雨雪；v.下雨雪，下冰雹 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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overcast
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| adj.阴天的，阴暗的，愁闷的；v.遮盖，（使）变暗，包边缝；n.覆盖，阴天 | |
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glazed
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| adj.光滑的，像玻璃的；上过釉的；呆滞无神的v.装玻璃( glaze的过去式)；上釉于，上光；（目光）变得呆滞无神 | |
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defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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exhortations
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| n.敦促( exhortation的名词复数 )；极力推荐；（正式的）演讲；（宗教仪式中的）劝诫 | |
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14
chafing
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| n.皮肤发炎v.擦热（尤指皮肤）( chafe的现在分词 )；擦痛；发怒；惹怒 | |
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15
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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sodden
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| adj.浑身湿透的；v.使浸透；使呆头呆脑 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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soot
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| n.煤烟，烟尘；vt.熏以煤烟 | |
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fleas
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| n.跳蚤( flea的名词复数 )；爱财如命；没好气地（拒绝某人的要求） | |
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growl
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| v.（狗等）嗥叫，（炮等）轰鸣；n.嗥叫，轰鸣 | |
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21
ushered
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| v.引，领，陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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rattled
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| 慌乱的，恼火的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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deluge
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| n./vt.洪水，暴雨，使泛滥 | |
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footpath
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| n.小路，人行道 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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lashing
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| n.鞭打；痛斥；大量；许多v.鞭打( lash的现在分词 )；煽动；紧系；怒斥 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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sluggish
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| adj.懒惰的，迟钝的，无精打采的 | |
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muffling
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| v.压抑，捂住( muffle的现在分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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discomforts
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| n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 )；不愉快，苦恼 | |
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monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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entailing
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| 使…成为必要( entail的现在分词 )； 需要； 限定继承； 使必需 | |
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annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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40
dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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41
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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42
requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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43
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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44
bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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45
pertain
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| v.(to)附属，从属；关于；有关；适合，相称 | |
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46
procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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47
mandate
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| n.托管地；命令，指示 | |
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48
unwillingness
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| n. 不愿意，不情愿 | |
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49
bribe
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| n.贿赂；v.向…行贿，买通 | |
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50
dispense
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| vt.分配，分发；配(药)，发(药)；实施 | |
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51
lengthy
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| adj.漫长的，冗长的 | |
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52
trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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53
applicant
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| n.申请人，求职者，请求者 | |
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54
privy
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| adj.私用的；隐密的 | |
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55
abhorrence
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| n.憎恶；可憎恶的事 | |
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56
Moslem
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| n.回教徒，穆罕默德信徒；adj.回教徒的，回教的 | |
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57
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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58
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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59
surfeit
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| v.使饮食过度；n.(食物)过量，过度 | |
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60
stupor
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| v.昏迷；不省人事 | |
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61
intoxication
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| n.wild excitement;drunkenness；poisoning | |
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62
annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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63
sterling
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| adj.英币的(纯粹的，货真价实的)；n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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stipulated
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| vt.& vi.规定；约定adj.[法]合同规定的 | |
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grumbling
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| adj. 喃喃鸣不平的, 出怨言的 | |
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66
virtues
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| 美德( virtue的名词复数 )； 德行； 优点； 长处 | |
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redounded
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| v.有助益( redound的过去式和过去分词 )；及于；报偿；报应 | |
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discredit
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| vt.使不可置信；n.丧失信义；不信，怀疑 | |
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entrusted
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| v.委托，托付( entrust的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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71
smuggle
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| vt.私运；vi.走私 | |
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72
advancement
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| n.前进，促进，提升 | |
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73
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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magisterial
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| adj.威风的，有权威的；adv.威严地 | |
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75
herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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76
defrauded
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| v.诈取，骗取( defraud的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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77
specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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78
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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79
obnoxious
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| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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prying
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| adj.爱打听的v.打听，刺探（他人的私事）( pry的现在分词 )；撬开 | |
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81
immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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82
indefatigable
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| adj.不知疲倦的，不屈不挠的 | |
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83
derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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84
folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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85
superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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bigoted
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| adj.固执己见的，心胸狭窄的 | |
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87
clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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88
ascendancy
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| n.统治权，支配力量 | |
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89
blasphemous
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| adj.亵渎神明的，不敬神的 | |
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90
doctrines
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| n.教条( doctrine的名词复数 )；教义；学说；（政府政策的）正式声明 | |
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91
tyrant
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| n.暴君，专制的君主，残暴的人 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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93
hostilities
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| n.战争；敌意(hostility的复数)；敌对状态；战事 | |
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94
beset
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| v.镶嵌；困扰，包围 | |
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95
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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96
majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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97
monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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98
creed
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| n.信条；信念，纲领 | |
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99
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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100
cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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101
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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102
insolent
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| adj.傲慢的，无理的 | |
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103
interdicted
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| v.禁止（行动）( interdict的过去式和过去分词 )；禁用；限制 | |
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104
edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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105
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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106
apex
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| n.顶点，最高点 | |
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107
wading
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的现在分词 ) | |
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108
kennels
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| n.主人外出时的小动物寄养处，养狗场；狗窝( kennel的名词复数 )；养狗场 | |
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109
slippers
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| n. 拖鞋 | |
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110
scowling
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| 怒视，生气地皱眉( scowl的现在分词 ) | |
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111
avaricious
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| adj.贪婪的，贪心的 | |
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112
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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113
emblem
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| n.象征，标志；徽章 | |
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114
strewed
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| v.撒在…上( strew的过去式和过去分词 )；散落于；点缀；撒满 | |
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115
muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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116
monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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117
munificence
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| n.宽宏大量，慷慨给与 | |
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118
benediction
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| n.祝福；恩赐 | |
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119
resounded
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| v.（指声音等）回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 )；产生回响；（指某处）回荡着声音 | |
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120
dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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121
mellow
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| adj.柔和的；熟透的；v.变柔和；(使)成熟 | |
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122
anthem
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| n.圣歌，赞美诗，颂歌 | |
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123
discord
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| n.不和，意见不合，争论，（音乐）不和谐 | |
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124
orb
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| n.太阳；星球；v.弄圆；成球形 | |
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125
socket
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| n.窝，穴，孔，插座，插口 | |
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126
vehemence
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| n.热切；激烈；愤怒 | |
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127
barley
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| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
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128
extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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129
modulation
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| n.调制 | |
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130
dissonant
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| adj.不和谐的；不悦耳的 | |
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131
liturgy
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| n.礼拜仪式 | |
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132
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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133
beckoning
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| adj.引诱人的，令人心动的v.（用头或手的动作）示意，召唤( beckon的现在分词 ) | |
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134
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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135
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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136
enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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137
vanquishing
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| v.征服( vanquish的现在分词 )；战胜；克服；抑制 | |
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138
trophy
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| n.优胜旗，奖品，奖杯，战胜品，纪念品 | |
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139
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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140
consecrated
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| adj.神圣的，被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣，给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 )；奉献 | |
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141
niche
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| n.壁龛；合适的职务(环境、位置等) | |
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