I CAN never forget the eighteen or twenty days during which the light trade-winds were silently sweeping1 us towards the islands. In pursuit of the sperm2 whale, we had been cruising on the line some twenty degrees to the westward3 of the Gallipagos; and all that we had to do, when our course was determined4 on, was to square in the yards and keep the vessel5 before the breeze, and then the good ship and the steady gale6 did the rest between them. The man at the wheel never vexed7 the old lady with any superfluous8 steering9, but comfortably adjusting his limbs at the tiller, would doze10 away by the hour. True to her work, the Dolly headed to her course, and like one of those characters who always do best when let alone, she jogged on her way like a veteran old sea-pacer as she was.
What a delightful11, lazy, languid time we had whilst we were thus gliding12 along! There was nothing to be done; a circumstance that happily suited our disinclination to do anything. We abandoned the fore-peak altogether, and spreading an awning13 over the forecastle, slept, ate, and lounged under it the live-long day. Every one seemed to be under the influence of some narcotic14. Even the officers aft, whose duty required them never to be seated while keeping a deck watch, vainly endeavoured to keep on their pins; and were obliged invariably to compromise the matter by leaning up against the bulwarks15, and gazing abstractedly over the side. Reading was out of the question; take a book in your hand, and you were asleep in an instant.
Although I could not avoid yielding in a great measure to the general languor16, still at times I contrived17 to shake off the spell, and to appreciate the beauty of the scene around me. The sky presented a clear expanse of the most delicate blue, except along the skirts of the horizon, where you might see a thin drapery of pale clouds which never varied18 their form or colour. The long, measured, dirge-like well of the Pacific came rolling along, with its surface broken by little tiny waves, sparkling in the sunshine. Every now and then a shoal of flying fish, scared from the water under the bows, would leap into the air, and fall the next moment like a shower of silver into the sea. Then you would see the superb albicore, with his glittering sides, sailing aloft, and often describing an arc in his descent, disappear on the surface of the water. Far off, the lofty jet of the whale might be seen, and nearer at hand the prowling shark, that villainous footpad of the seas, would come skulking19 along, and, at a wary20 distance, regard us with his evil eye. At times, some shapeless monster of the deep, floating on the surface, would, as we approached, sink slowly into the blue waters, and fade away from the sight. But the most impressive feature of the scene was the almost unbroken silence that reigned21 over sky and water. Scarcely a sound could be heard but the occasional breathing of the grampus, and the rippling22 at the cut-water.
As we drew nearer the land, I hailed with delight the appearance of innumerable sea-fowl. Screaming and whirling in spiral tracks, they would accompany the vessel, and at times alight on our yards and stays. That piratical-looking fellow, appropriately named the man-of-war’s-hawk, with his blood-red bill and raven23 plumage, would come sweeping round us in gradually diminishing circles, till you could distinctly mark the strange flashings of his eye; and then, as if satisfied with his observation, would sail up into the air and disappear from the view. Soon, other evidences of our vicinity to the land were apparent, and it was not long before the glad announcement of its being in sight was heard from aloft,—given with that peculiar24 prolongation of sound that a sailor loves—‘Land ho!’
The captain, darting25 on deck from the cabin, bawled26 lustily for his spy-glass; the mate in still louder accents hailed the masthead with a tremendous ‘where-away?’ The black cook thrust his woolly head from the galley27, and Boatswain, the dog, leaped up between the knight-heads, and barked most furiously. Land ho! Aye, there it was. A hardly perceptible blue irregular outline, indicating the bold contour of the lofty heights of Nukuheva.
This island, although generally called one of the Marquesas, is by some navigators considered as forming one of a distinct cluster, comprising the islands of Ruhooka, Ropo, and Nukuheva; upon which three the appellation28 of the Washington Group has been bestowed29. They form a triangle, and lie within the parallels of 8 degrees 38” and 9 degrees 32” South latitude30 and 139 degrees 20” and 140 degrees 10” West longitude31 from Greenwich. With how little propriety32 they are to be regarded as forming a separate group will be at once apparent, when it is considered that they lie in the immediate33 vicinity of the other islands, that is to say, less than a degree to the northwest of them; that their inhabitants speak the Marquesan dialect, and that their laws, religion, and general customs are identical. The only reason why they were ever thus arbitrarily distinguished34 may be attributed to the singular fact, that their existence was altogether unknown to the world until the year 1791, when they were discovered by Captain Ingraham, of Boston, Massachusetts, nearly two centuries after the discovery of the adjacent islands by the agent of the Spanish Viceroy. Notwithstanding this, I shall follow the example of most voyagers, and treat of them as forming part and parcel of Marquesas.
Nukuheva is the most important of these islands, being the only one at which ships are much in the habit of touching35, and is celebrated36 as being the place where the adventurous37 Captain Porter refitted his ships during the late war between England and the United States, and whence he sallied out upon the large whaling fleet then sailing under the enemy’s flag in the surrounding seas. This island is about twenty miles in length and nearly as many in breadth. It has three good harbours on its coast; the largest and best of which is called by the people living in its vicinity ‘Taiohae’, and by Captain Porter was denominated Massachusetts Bay. Among the adverse38 tribes dwelling39 about the shores of the other bays, and by all voyagers, it is generally known by the name bestowed upon the island itself—Nukuheva. Its inhabitants have become somewhat corrupted40, owing to their recent commerce with Europeans, but so far as regards their peculiar customs and general mode of life, they retain their original primitive41 character, remaining very nearly in the same state of nature in which they were first beheld42 by white men. The hostile clans43, residing in the more remote sections of the island, and very seldom holding any communication with foreigners, are in every respect unchanged from their earliest known condition.
In the bay of Nukuheva was the anchorage we desired to reach. We had perceived the loom44 of the mountains about sunset; so that after running all night with a very light breeze, we found ourselves close in with the island the next morning, but as the bay we sought lay on its farther side, we were obliged to sail some distance along the shore, catching45, as we proceeded, short glimpses of blooming valleys, deep glens, waterfalls, and waving groves46 hidden here and there by projecting and rocky headlands, every moment opening to the view some new and startling scene of beauty.
Those who for the first time visit the South Sea, generally are surprised at the appearance of the islands when beheld from the sea. From the vague accounts we sometimes have of their beauty, many people are apt to picture to themselves enamelled and softly swelling47 plains, shaded over with delicious groves, and watered by purling brooks48, and the entire country but little elevated above the surrounding ocean. The reality is very different; bold rock-bound coasts, with the surf beating high against the lofty cliffs, and broken here and there into deep inlets, which open to the view thickly-wooded valleys, separated by the spurs of mountains clothed with tufted grass, and sweeping down towards the sea from an elevated and furrowed49 interior, form the principal features of these islands.
Towards noon we drew abreast50 the entrance go the harbour, and at last we slowly swept by the intervening promontory51, and entered the bay of Nukuheva. No description can do justice to its beauty; but that beauty was lost to me then, and I saw nothing but the tri-coloured flag of France trailing over the stern of six vessels52, whose black hulls53 and bristling54 broadsides proclaimed their warlike character. There they were, floating in that lovely bay, the green eminences55 of the shore looking down so tranquilly56 upon them, as if rebuking57 the sternness of their aspect. To my eye nothing could be more out of keeping than the presence of these vessels; but we soon learnt what brought them there. The whole group of islands had just been taken possession of by Rear-Admiral Du Petit Thouars, in the name of the invincible58 French nation.
This item of information was imparted to us by a most extraordinary individual, a genuine South-Sea vagabond, who came alongside of us in a whale-boat as soon as we entered the bay, and, by the aid of some benevolent59 persons at the gangway, was assisted on board, for our visitor was in that interesting stage of intoxication60 when a man is amiable61 and helpless. Although he was utterly62 unable to stand erect63 or to navigate64 his body across the deck, he still magnanimously proffered65 his services to pilot the ship to a good and secure anchorage. Our captain, however, rather distrusted his ability in this respect, and refused to recognize his claim to the character he assumed; but our gentleman was determined to play his part, for, by dint66 of much scrambling67, he succeeded in getting into the weather-quarter boat, where he steadied himself by holding on to a shroud68, and then commenced issuing his commands with amazing volubility and very peculiar gestures. Of course no one obeyed his orders; but as it was impossible to quiet him, we swept by the ships of the squadron with this strange fellow performing his antics in full view of all the French officers.
We afterwards learned that our eccentric friend had been a lieutenant69 in the English navy; but having disgraced his flag by some criminal conduct in one of the principal ports on the main, he had deserted70 his ship, and spent many years wandering among the islands of the Pacific, until accidentally being at Nukuheva when the French took possession of the place, he had been appointed pilot of the harbour by the newly constituted authorities.
As we slowly advanced up the bay, numerous canoes pushed off from the surrounding shores, and we were soon in the midst of quite a flotilla of them, their savage71 occupants struggling to get aboard of us, and jostling one another in their ineffectual attempts. Occasionally the projecting out-riggers of their slight shallops running foul72 of one another, would become entangled73 beneath the water, threatening to capsize the canoes, when a scene of confusion would ensue that baffles description. Such strange outcries and passionate74 gesticulations I never certainly heard or saw before. You would have thought the islanders were on the point of flying at each other’s throats, whereas they were only amicably75 engaged in disentangling their boats.
Scattered76 here and there among the canoes might be seen numbers of cocoanuts floating closely together in circular groups, and bobbing up and down with every wave. By some inexplicable77 means these cocoanuts were all steadily78 approaching towards the ship. As I leaned curiously79 over the side, endeavouring to solve their mysterious movements, one mass far in advance of the rest attracted my attention. In its centre was something I could take for nothing else than a cocoanut, but which I certainly considered one of the most extraordinary specimens80 of the fruit I had ever seen. It kept twirling and dancing about among the rest in the most singular manner, and as it drew nearer I thought it bore a remarkable81 resemblance to the brown shaven skull82 of one of the savages83. Presently it betrayed a pair of eyes, and soon I became aware that what I had supposed to have been one of the fruit was nothing else than the head of an islander, who had adopted this singular method of bringing his produce to market. The cocoanuts were all attached to one another by strips of the husk, partly torn from the shell and rudely fastened together. Their proprietor84 inserting his head into the midst of them, impelled85 his necklace of cocoanuts through the water by striking out beneath the surface with his feet.
I was somewhat astonished to perceive that among the number of natives that surrounded us, not a single female was to be seen. At that time I was ignorant of the fact that by the operation of the ‘taboo’ the use of canoes in all parts of the island is rigorously prohibited to the entire sex, for whom it is death even to be seen entering one when hauled on shore; consequently, whenever a Marquesan lady voyages by water, she puts in requisition the paddles of her own fair body.
We had approached within a mile and a half perhaps of this foot of the bay, when some of the islanders, who by this time had managed to scramble86 aboard of us at the risk of swamping their canoes, directed our attention to a singular commotion88 in the water ahead of the vessel. At first I imagined it to be produced by a shoal of fish sporting on the surface, but our savage friends assured us that it was caused by a shoal of ‘whinhenies’ (young girls), who in this manner were coming off from the shore to welcome is. As they drew nearer, and I watched the rising and sinking of their forms, and beheld the uplifted right arm bearing above the water the girdle of tappa, and their long dark hair trailing beside them as they swam, I almost fancied they could be nothing else than so many mermaids89—and very like mermaids they behaved too.
We were still some distance from the beach, and under slow headway, when we sailed right into the midst of these swimming nymphs, and they boarded us at every quarter; many seizing hold of the chain-plates and springing into the chains; others, at the peril90 of being run over by the vessel in her course, catching at the bob-stays, and wreathing their slender forms about the ropes, hung suspended in the air. All of them at length succeeded in getting up the ship’s side, where they clung dripping with the brine and glowing from the bath, their jet-black tresses streaming over their shoulders, and half enveloping91 their otherwise naked forms. There they hung, sparkling with savage vivacity92, laughing gaily93 at one another, and chattering94 away with infinite glee. Nor were they idle the while, for each one performed the simple offices of the toilette for the other. Their luxuriant locks, wound up and twisted into the smallest possible compass, were freed from the briny95 element; the whole person carefully dried, and from a little round shell that passed from hand to hand, anointed with a fragrant96 oil: their adornments were completed by passing a few loose folds of white tappa, in a modest cincture, around the waist. Thus arrayed they no longer hesitated, but flung themselves lightly over the bulwarks, and were quickly frolicking about the decks. Many of them went forward, perching upon the headrails or running out upon the bowsprit, while others seated themselves upon the taffrail, or reclined at full length upon the boats. What a sight for us bachelor sailors! How avoid so dire87 a temptation? For who could think of tumbling these artless creatures overboard, when they had swum miles to welcome us?
Their appearance perfectly97 amazed me; their extreme youth, the light clear brown of their complexions98, their delicate features, and inexpressibly graceful99 figures, their softly moulded limbs, and free unstudied action, seemed as strange as beautiful.
The Dolly was fairly captured; and never I will say was vessel carried before by such a dashing and irresistible100 party of boarders! The ship taken, we could not do otherwise than yield ourselves prisoners, and for the whole period that she remained in the bay, the Dolly, as well as her crew, were completely in the hands of the mermaids.
In the evening after we had come to an anchor the deck was illuminated101 with lanterns, and this picturesque102 band of sylphs, tricked out with flowers, and dressed in robes of variegated103 tappa, got up a ball in great style. These females are passionately104 fond of dancing, and in the wild grace and spirit of the style excel everything I have ever seen. The varied dances of the Marquesan girls are beautiful in the extreme, but there is an abandoned voluptuousness105 in their character which I dare not attempt to describe.
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1
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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sperm
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| n.精子，精液 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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vexed
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| adj.争论不休的；（指问题等）棘手的；争论不休的问题；烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 )；使苦恼；使生气；详细讨论 | |
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superfluous
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| adj.过多的，过剩的，多余的 | |
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steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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doze
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| v.打瞌睡；n.打盹，假寐 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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awning
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| n.遮阳篷；雨篷 | |
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narcotic
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| n.麻醉药，镇静剂；adj.麻醉的，催眠的 | |
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bulwarks
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| n.堡垒( bulwark的名词复数 )；保障；支柱；舷墙 | |
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languor
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| n.无精力，倦怠 | |
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contrived
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| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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skulking
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| v.潜伏，偷偷摸摸地走动，鬼鬼祟祟地活动( skulk的现在分词 ) | |
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wary
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| adj.谨慎的，机警的，小心的 | |
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reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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rippling
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| 起涟漪的，潺潺流水般声音的 | |
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raven
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| n.渡鸟，乌鸦；adj.乌亮的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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darting
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的现在分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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bawled
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| v.大叫，大喊( bawl的过去式和过去分词 )；放声大哭；大声叫出；叫卖（货物） | |
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galley
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| n.（飞机或船上的）厨房单层甲板大帆船；军舰舰长用的大划艇； | |
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appellation
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| n.名称，称呼 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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longitude
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| n.经线，经度 | |
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propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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adverse
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| adj.不利的；有害的；敌对的，不友好的 | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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corrupted
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| （使）败坏( corrupt的过去式和过去分词 )； （使）腐化； 引起（计算机文件等的）错误； 破坏 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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clans
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| 宗族( clan的名词复数 )； 氏族； 庞大的家族； 宗派 | |
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loom
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| n.织布机，织机；v.隐现，(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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brooks
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| n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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furrowed
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| v.犁田，开沟( furrow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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abreast
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| adv.并排地；跟上(时代)的步伐，与…并进地 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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hulls
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| 船体( hull的名词复数 )； 船身； 外壳； 豆荚 | |
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bristling
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| a.竖立的 | |
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eminences
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| 卓越( eminence的名词复数 )； 著名； 高地； 山丘 | |
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tranquilly
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| adv. 宁静地 | |
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rebuking
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| 责难或指责( rebuke的现在分词 ) | |
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invincible
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| adj.不可征服的，难以制服的 | |
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benevolent
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| adj.仁慈的，乐善好施的 | |
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intoxication
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| n.wild excitement;drunkenness；poisoning | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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navigate
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| v.航行，飞行；导航，领航 | |
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proffered
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| v.提供，贡献，提出( proffer的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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dint
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| n.由于，靠；凹坑 | |
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scrambling
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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shroud
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| n.裹尸布，寿衣；罩，幕；vt.覆盖，隐藏 | |
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69
lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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72
foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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entangled
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| adj.卷入的；陷入的；被缠住的；缠在一起的v.使某人（某物/自己）缠绕，纠缠于（某物中），使某人（自己）陷入（困难或复杂的环境中）( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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74
passionate
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，激昂的，易动情的，易怒的，性情暴躁的 | |
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75
amicably
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| adv.友善地 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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inexplicable
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| adj.无法解释的，难理解的 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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80
specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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82
skull
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| n.头骨；颅骨 | |
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83
savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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85
impelled
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| v.推动、推进或敦促某人做某事( impel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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86
scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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dire
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| adj.可怕的，悲惨的，阴惨的，极端的 | |
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commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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89
mermaids
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| n.（传说中的）美人鱼( mermaid的名词复数 ) | |
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peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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91
enveloping
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的现在分词 ) | |
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vivacity
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| n.快活，活泼，精神充沛 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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95
briny
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| adj.盐水的；很咸的；n.海洋 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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complexions
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| 肤色( complexion的名词复数 )； 面色； 局面； 性质 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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100
irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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102
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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103
variegated
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| adj.斑驳的，杂色的 | |
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104
passionately
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| ad.热烈地，激烈地 | |
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105
voluptuousness
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| n.风骚，体态丰满 | |
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