We made a great stir in Antwerp Docks. A stevedore1 and a lot of dock porters took up the two canoes, and ran with them for the slip. A crowd of children followed cheering. The Cigarette went off in a splash and a bubble of small breaking water. Next moment the Arethusa was after her. A steamer was coming down, men on the paddle-box shouted hoarse2 warnings, the stevedore and his porters were bawling3 from the quay4. But in a stroke or two the canoes were away out in the middle of the Scheldt, and all steamers, and stevedores5, and other 'long-shore vanities were left behind.
The sun shone brightly; the tide was making--four jolly miles an hour; the wind blew steadily6, with occasional squalls. For my part, I had never been in a canoe under sail in my life; and my first experiment out in the middle of this big river was not made without some trepidation7. What would happen when the wind first caught my little canvas? I suppose it was almost as trying a venture into the regions of the unknown as to publish a first book, or to marry. But my doubts were not of long duration; and in five minutes you will not be surprised to learn that I had tied my sheet.
I own I was a little struck by this circumstance myself; of course, in company with the rest of my fellow-men, I had always tied the sheet in a sailing-boat; but in so little and crank a concern as a canoe, and with these charging squalls, I was not prepared to find myself follow the same principle; and it inspired me with some contemptuous views of our regard for life. It is certainly easier to smoke with the sheet fastened; but I had never before weighed a comfortable pipe of tobacco against an obvious risk, and gravely elected for the comfortable pipe. It is a commonplace, that we cannot answer for ourselves before we have been tried. But it is not so common a reflection, and surely more consoling, that we usually find ourselves a great deal braver and better than we thought. I believe this is every one's experience: but an apprehension9 that they may belie8 themselves in the future prevents mankind from trumpeting10 this cheerful sentiment abroad. I wish sincerely, for it would have saved me much trouble, there had been some one to put me in a good heart about life when I was younger; to tell me how dangers are most portentous11 on a distant sight; and how the good in a man's spirit will not suffer itself to be overlaid, and rarely or never deserts him in the hour of need. But we are all for tootling on the sentimental12 flute13 in literature; and not a man among us will go to the head of the march to sound the heady drums.
It was agreeable upon the river. A barge14 or two went past laden15 with hay. Reeds and willows16 bordered the stream; and cattle and grey venerable horses came and hung their mild heads over the embankment. Here and there was a pleasant village among trees, with a noisy shipping-yard; here and there a villa17 in a lawn. The wind served us well up the Scheldt and thereafter up the Rupel; and we were running pretty free when we began to sight the brickyards of Boom, lying for a long way on the right bank of the river. The left bank was still green and pastoral, with alleys18 of trees along the embankment, and here and there a flight of steps to serve a ferry, where perhaps there sat a woman with her elbows on her knees, or an old gentleman with a staff and silver spectacles. But Boom and its brickyards grew smokier and shabbier with every minute; until a great church with a clock, and a wooden bridge over the river, indicated the central quarters of the town.
Boom is not a nice place, and is only remarkable19 for one thing: that the majority of the inhabitants have a private opinion that they can speak English, which is not justified20 by fact. This gave a kind of haziness21 to our intercourse22. As for the Hotel de la Navigation, I think it is the worst feature of the place. It boasts of a sanded parlour, with a bar at one end, looking on the street; and another sanded parlour, darker and colder, with an empty bird-cage and a tricolour subscription23 box by way of sole adornment24, where we made shift to dine in the company of three uncommunicative engineer apprentices25 and a silent bagman. The food, as usual in Belgium, was of a nondescript occasional character; indeed I have never been able to detect anything in the nature of a meal among this pleasing people; they seem to peck and trifle with viands26 all day long in an amateur spirit: tentatively French, truly German, and somehow falling between the two.
The empty bird-cage, swept and garnished27, and with no trace of the old piping favourite, save where two wires had been pushed apart to hold its lump of sugar, carried with it a sort of graveyard28 cheer. The engineer apprentices would have nothing to say to us, nor indeed to the bagman; but talked low and sparingly to one another, or raked us in the gaslight with a gleam of spectacles. For though handsome lads, they were all (in the Scots phrase) barnacled.
There was an English maid in the hotel, who had been long enough out of England to pick up all sorts of funny foreign idioms, and all sorts of curious foreign ways, which need not here be specified29. She spoke30 to us very fluently in her jargon31, asked us information as to the manners of the present day in England, and obligingly corrected us when we attempted to answer. But as we were dealing32 with a woman, perhaps our information was not so much thrown away as it appeared. The sex likes to pick up knowledge and yet preserve its superiority. It is good policy, and almost necessary in the circumstances. If a man finds a woman admire him, were it only for his acquaintance with geography, he will begin at once to build upon the admiration33. It is only by unintermittent snubbing that the pretty ones can keep us in our place. Men, as Miss Howe or Miss Harlowe would have said, 'are such ENCROACHERS.' For my part, I am body and soul with the women; and after a well- married couple, there is nothing so beautiful in the world as the myth of the divine huntress. It is no use for a man to take to the woods; we know him; St. Anthony tried the same thing long ago, and had a pitiful time of it by all accounts. But there is this about some women, which overtops the best gymnosophist among men, that they suffice to themselves, and can walk in a high and cold zone without the countenance34 of any trousered being. I declare, although the reverse of a professed35 ascetic36, I am more obliged to women for this ideal than I should be to the majority of them, or indeed to any but one, for a spontaneous kiss. There is nothing so encouraging as the spectacle of self-sufficiency. And when I think of the slim and lovely maidens37, running the woods all night to the note of Diana's horn; moving among the old oaks, as fancy-free as they; things of the forest and the starlight, not touched by the commotion38 of man's hot and turbid39 life--although there are plenty other ideals that I should prefer--I find my heart beat at the thought of this one. 'Tis to fail in life, but to fail with what a grace! That is not lost which is not regretted. And where--here slips out the male--where would be much of the glory of inspiring love, if there were no contempt to overcome?
1 stevedore | |
n.码头工人;v.装载货物 | |
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2 hoarse | |
adj.嘶哑的,沙哑的 | |
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3 bawling | |
v.大叫,大喊( bawl的现在分词 );放声大哭;大声叫出;叫卖(货物) | |
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4 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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5 stevedores | |
n.码头装卸工人,搬运工( stevedore的名词复数 ) | |
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6 steadily | |
adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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7 trepidation | |
n.惊恐,惶恐 | |
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8 belie | |
v.掩饰,证明为假 | |
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9 apprehension | |
n.理解,领悟;逮捕,拘捕;忧虑 | |
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10 trumpeting | |
大声说出或宣告(trumpet的现在分词形式) | |
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11 portentous | |
adj.不祥的,可怕的,装腔作势的 | |
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12 sentimental | |
adj.多愁善感的,感伤的 | |
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13 flute | |
n.长笛;v.吹笛 | |
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14 barge | |
n.平底载货船,驳船 | |
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15 laden | |
adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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16 willows | |
n.柳树( willow的名词复数 );柳木 | |
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17 villa | |
n.别墅,城郊小屋 | |
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18 alleys | |
胡同,小巷( alley的名词复数 ); 小径 | |
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19 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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20 justified | |
a.正当的,有理的 | |
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21 haziness | |
有薄雾,模糊; 朦胧之性质或状态; 零能见度 | |
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22 intercourse | |
n.性交;交流,交往,交际 | |
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23 subscription | |
n.预订,预订费,亲笔签名,调配法,下标(处方) | |
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24 adornment | |
n.装饰;装饰品 | |
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25 apprentices | |
学徒,徒弟( apprentice的名词复数 ) | |
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26 viands | |
n.食品,食物 | |
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27 garnished | |
v.给(上餐桌的食物)加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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28 graveyard | |
n.坟场 | |
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29 specified | |
adj.特定的 | |
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30 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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31 jargon | |
n.术语,行话 | |
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32 dealing | |
n.经商方法,待人态度 | |
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33 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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34 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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35 professed | |
公开声称的,伪称的,已立誓信教的 | |
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36 ascetic | |
adj.禁欲的;严肃的 | |
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37 maidens | |
处女( maiden的名词复数 ); 少女; 未婚女子; (板球运动)未得分的一轮投球 | |
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38 commotion | |
n.骚动,动乱 | |
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39 turbid | |
adj.混浊的,泥水的,浓的 | |
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