We lingered in Moy a good part of the day, for we were fond of being philosophical2, and scorned long journeys and early starts on principle. The place, moreover, invited to repose3. People in elaborate shooting costumes sallied from the chateau4 with guns and game-bags; and this was a pleasure in itself, to remain behind while these elegant pleasure-seekers took the first of the morning. In this way, all the world may be an aristocrat6, and play the duke among marquises, and the reigning7 monarch8 among dukes, if he will only outvie them in tranquillity9. An imperturbable10 demeanour comes from perfect patience. Quiet minds cannot be perplexed11 or frightened, but go on in fortune or misfortune at their own private pace, like a clock during a thunderstorm.
We made a very short day of it to La Fere; but the dusk was falling, and a small rain had begun before we stowed the boats. La Fere is a fortified12 town in a plain, and has two belts of rampart. Between the first and the second extends a region of waste land and cultivated patches. Here and there along the wayside were posters forbidding trespass13 in the name of military engineering. At last, a second gateway14 admitted us to the town itself. Lighted windows looked gladsome, whiffs of comfortable cookery came abroad upon the air. The town was full of the military reserve, out for the French Autumn Manoeuvres, and the reservists walked speedily and wore their formidable great-coats. It was a fine night to be within doors over dinner, and hear the rain upon the windows.
The Cigarette and I could not sufficiently15 congratulate each other on the prospect16, for we had been told there was a capital inn at La Fere. Such a dinner as we were going to eat! such beds as we were to sleep in!--and all the while the rain raining on houseless folk over all the poplared countryside! It made our mouths water. The inn bore the name of some woodland animal, stag, or hart, or hind5, I forget which. But I shall never forget how spacious17 and how eminently18 habitable it looked as we drew near. The carriage entry was lighted up, not by intention, but from the mere19 superfluity of fire and candle in the house. A rattle20 of many dishes came to our ears; we sighted a great field of table-cloth; the kitchen glowed like a forge and smelt21 like a garden of things to eat.
Into this, the inmost shrine22 and physiological23 heart of a hostelry, with all its furnaces in action, and all its dressers charged with viands24, you are now to suppose us making our triumphal entry, a pair of damp rag-and-bone men, each with a limp india-rubber bag upon his arm. I do not believe I have a sound view of that kitchen; I saw it through a sort of glory: but it seemed to me crowded with the snowy caps of cookmen, who all turned round from their saucepans and looked at us with surprise. There was no doubt about the landlady25, however: there she was, heading her army, a flushed, angry woman, full of affairs. Her I asked politely--too politely, thinks the Cigarette--if we could have beds: she surveying us coldly from head to foot.
'You will find beds in the suburb,' she remarked. 'We are too busy for the like of you.'
If we could make an entrance, change our clothes, and order a bottle of wine, I felt sure we could put things right; so said I: 'If we cannot sleep, we may at least dine,'--and was for depositing my bag.
What a terrible convulsion of nature was that which followed in the landlady's face! She made a run at us, and stamped her foot.
'Out with you--out of the door!' she screeched26. 'Sortez! sortez! sortez par1 la porte!'
I do not know how it happened, but next moment we were out in the rain and darkness, and I was cursing before the carriage entry like a disappointed mendicant27. Where were the boating men of Belgium? where the Judge and his good wines? and where the graces of Origny? Black, black was the night after the firelit kitchen; but what was that to the blackness in our heart? This was not the first time that I have been refused a lodging28. Often and often have I planned what I should do if such a misadventure happened to me again. And nothing is easier to plan. But to put in execution, with the heart boiling at the indignity29? Try it; try it only once; and tell me what you did.
It is all very fine to talk about tramps and morality. Six hours of police surveillance (such as I have had), or one brutal30 rejection31 from an inn-door, change your views upon the subject like a course of lectures. As long as you keep in the upper regions, with all the world bowing to you as you go, social arrangements have a very handsome air; but once get under the wheels, and you wish society were at the devil. I will give most respectable men a fortnight of such a life, and then I will offer them twopence for what remains32 of their morality.
For my part, when I was turned out of the Stag, or the Hind, or whatever it was, I would have set the temple of Diana on fire, if it had been handy. There was no crime complete enough to express my disapproval33 of human institutions. As for the Cigarette, I never knew a man so altered. 'We have been taken for pedlars again,' said he. 'Good God, what it must be to be a pedlar in reality!' He particularised a complaint for every joint34 in the landlady's body. Timon was a philanthropist alongside of him. And then, when he was at the top of his maledictory35 bent36, he would suddenly break away and begin whimperingly to commiserate37 the poor. 'I hope to God,' he said,--and I trust the prayer was answered,-- 'that I shall never be uncivil to a pedlar.' Was this the imperturbable Cigarette? This, this was he. O change beyond report, thought, or belief!
Meantime the heaven wept upon our heads; and the windows grew brighter as the night increased in darkness. We trudged38 in and out of La Fere streets; we saw shops, and private houses where people were copiously39 dining; we saw stables where carters' nags40 had plenty of fodder41 and clean straw; we saw no end of reservists, who were very sorry for themselves this wet night, I doubt not, and yearned42 for their country homes; but had they not each man his place in La Fere barracks? And we, what had we?
There seemed to be no other inn in the whole town. People gave us directions, which we followed as best we could, generally with the effect of bringing us out again upon the scene of our disgrace. We were very sad people indeed by the time we had gone all over La Fere; and the Cigarette had already made up his mind to lie under a poplar and sup off a loaf of bread. But right at the other end, the house next the town-gate was full of light and bustle43. 'Bazin, aubergiste, loge a pied,' was the sign. 'A la Croix de Malte.' There were we received.
The room was full of noisy reservists drinking and smoking; and we were very glad indeed when the drums and bugles44 began to go about the streets, and one and all had to snatch shakoes and be off for the barracks.
Bazin was a tall man, running to fat: soft-spoken, with a delicate, gentle face. We asked him to share our wine; but he excused himself, having pledged reservists all day long. This was a very different type of the workman-innkeeper from the bawling45 disputatious fellow at Origny. He also loved Paris, where he had worked as a decorative46 painter in his youth. There were such opportunities for self-instruction there, he said. And if any one has read Zola's description of the workman's marriage-party visiting the Louvre, they would do well to have heard Bazin by way of antidote47. He had delighted in the museums in his youth. 'One sees there little miracles of work,' he said; 'that is what makes a good workman; it kindles48 a spark.' We asked him how he managed in La Fere. 'I am married,' he said, 'and I have my pretty children. But frankly49, it is no life at all. From morning to night I pledge a pack of good enough fellows who know nothing.'
It faired as the night went on, and the moon came out of the clouds. We sat in front of the door, talking softly with Bazin. At the guard-house opposite, the guard was being for ever turned out, as trains of field artillery50 kept clanking in out of the night, or patrols of horsemen trotted51 by in their cloaks. Madame Bazin came out after a while; she was tired with her day's work, I suppose; and she nestled up to her husband and laid her head upon his breast. He had his arm about her, and kept gently patting her on the shoulder. I think Bazin was right, and he was really married. Of how few people can the same be said!
Little did the Bazins know how much they served us. We were charged for candles, for food and drink, and for the beds we slept in. But there was nothing in the bill for the husband's pleasant talk; nor for the pretty spectacle of their married life. And there was yet another item unchanged. For these people's politeness really set us up again in our own esteem52. We had a thirst for consideration; the sense of insult was still hot in our spirits; and civil usage seemed to restore us to our position in the world.
How little we pay our way in life! Although we have our purses continually in our hand, the better part of service goes still unrewarded. But I like to fancy that a grateful spirit gives as good as it gets. Perhaps the Bazins knew how much I liked them? perhaps they also were healed of some slights by the thanks that I gave them in my manner?
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par
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| n.标准，票面价值，平均数量；adj.票面的，平常的，标准的 | |
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philosophical
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| adj.哲学家的，哲学上的，达观的 | |
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repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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chateau
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| n.城堡，别墅 | |
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hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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aristocrat
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| n.贵族，有贵族气派的人，上层人物 | |
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reigning
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| adj.统治的，起支配作用的 | |
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monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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tranquillity
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| n. 平静, 安静 | |
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imperturbable
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| adj.镇静的 | |
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perplexed
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| adj.不知所措的 | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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trespass
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| n./v.侵犯，闯入私人领地 | |
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gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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eminently
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| adv.突出地；显著地；不寻常地 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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smelt
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| v.熔解，熔炼；n.银白鱼，胡瓜鱼 | |
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shrine
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| n.圣地，神龛，庙；v.将...置于神龛内，把...奉为神圣 | |
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physiological
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| adj.生理学的，生理学上的 | |
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viands
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| n.食品，食物 | |
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landlady
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| n.女房东，女地主 | |
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screeched
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| v.发出尖叫声( screech的过去式和过去分词 )；发出粗而刺耳的声音；高叫 | |
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mendicant
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| n.乞丐；adj.行乞的 | |
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lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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indignity
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| n.侮辱，伤害尊严，轻蔑 | |
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brutal
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| adj.残忍的，野蛮的，不讲理的 | |
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rejection
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| n.拒绝，被拒，抛弃，被弃 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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disapproval
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| n.反对，不赞成 | |
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joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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maledictory
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| adj.诅咒的，坏话的 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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commiserate
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| v.怜悯，同情 | |
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trudged
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| vt.& vi.跋涉，吃力地走（trudge的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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copiously
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| adv.丰富地，充裕地 | |
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nags
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| n.不断地挑剔或批评（某人）( nag的名词复数 )；不断地烦扰或伤害（某人）；无休止地抱怨；不断指责v.不断地挑剔或批评（某人）( nag的第三人称单数 )；不断地烦扰或伤害（某人）；无休止地抱怨；不断指责 | |
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fodder
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| n.草料；炮灰 | |
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yearned
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| 渴望，切盼，向往( yearn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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bugles
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| 妙脆角，一种类似薯片但做成尖角或喇叭状的零食； 号角( bugle的名词复数 )； 喇叭； 匍匐筋骨草； （装饰女服用的）柱状玻璃（或塑料）小珠 | |
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bawling
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| v.大叫，大喊( bawl的现在分词 )；放声大哭；大声叫出；叫卖（货物） | |
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decorative
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| adj.装饰的，可作装饰的 | |
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antidote
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| n.解毒药，解毒剂 | |
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kindles
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| （使某物）燃烧，着火( kindle的第三人称单数 )； 激起（感情等）； 发亮，放光 | |
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frankly
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| adv.坦白地，直率地；坦率地说 | |
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artillery
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| n.(军)火炮，大炮；炮兵(部队) | |
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trotted
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| 小跑，急走( trot的过去分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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esteem
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| n.尊敬，尊重；vt.尊重，敬重；把…看作 | |
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