Noyon stands about a mile from the river, in a little plain surrounded by wooded hills, and entirely1 covers an eminence2 with its tile roofs, surmounted3 by a long, straight-backed cathedral with two stiff towers. As we got into the town, the tile roofs seemed to tumble uphill one upon another, in the oddest disorder4; but for all their scrambling5, they did not attain6 above the knees of the cathedral, which stood, upright and solemn, over all. As the streets drew near to this presiding genius, through the market- place under the Hotel de Ville, they grew emptier and more composed. Blank walls and shuttered windows were turned to the great edifice7, and grass grew on the white causeway. 'Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest is holy ground.' The Hotel du Nord, nevertheless, lights its secular8 tapers10 within a stone-cast of the church; and we had the superb east-end before our eyes all morning from the window of our bedroom. I have seldom looked on the east-end of a church with more complete sympathy. As it flanges11 out in three wide terraces and settles down broadly on the earth, it looks like the poop of some great old battle-ship. Hollow-backed buttresses12 carry vases, which figure for the stern lanterns. There is a roll in the ground, and the towers just appear above the pitch of the roof, as though the good ship were bowing lazily over an Atlantic swell13. At any moment it might be a hundred feet away from you, climbing the next billow. At any moment a window might open, and some old admiral thrust forth14 a cocked hat, and proceed to take an observation. The old admirals sail the sea no longer; the old ships of battle are all broken up, and live only in pictures; but this, that was a church before ever they were thought upon, is still a church, and makes as brave an appearance by the Oise. The cathedral and the river are probably the two oldest things for miles around; and certainly they have both a grand old age.
The Sacristan took us to the top of one of the towers, and showed us the five bells hanging in their loft16. From above, the town was a tesselated pavement of roofs and gardens; the old line of rampart was plainly traceable; and the Sacristan pointed17 out to us, far across the plain, in a bit of gleaming sky between two clouds, the towers of Chateau18 Coucy.
I find I never weary of great churches. It is my favourite kind of mountain scenery. Mankind was never so happily inspired as when it made a cathedral: a thing as single and specious19 as a statue to the first glance, and yet, on examination, as lively and interesting as a forest in detail. The height of spires20 cannot be taken by trigonometry; they measure absurdly short, but how tall they are to the admiring eye! And where we have so many elegant proportions, growing one out of the other, and all together into one, it seems as if proportion transcended21 itself, and became something different and more imposing22. I could never fathom23 how a man dares to lift up his voice to preach in a cathedral. What is he to say that will not be an anti-climax? For though I have heard a considerable variety of sermons, I never yet heard one that was so expressive24 as a cathedral. 'Tis the best preacher itself, and preaches day and night; not only telling you of man's art and aspirations25 in the past, but convicting your own soul of ardent26 sympathies; or rather, like all good preachers, it sets you preaching to yourself;--and every man is his own doctor of divinity in the last resort.
As I sat outside of the hotel in the course of the afternoon, the sweet groaning27 thunder of the organ floated out of the church like a summons. I was not averse28, liking29 the theatre so well, to sit out an act or two of the play, but I could never rightly make out the nature of the service I beheld30. Four or five priests and as many choristers were singing Miserere before the high altar when I went in. There was no congregation but a few old women on chairs and old men kneeling on the pavement. After a while a long train of young girls, walking two and two, each with a lighted taper9 in her hand, and all dressed in black with a white veil, came from behind the altar, and began to descend31 the nave32; the four first carrying a Virgin33 and child upon a table. The priests and choristers arose from their knees and followed after, singing 'Ave Mary' as they went. In this order they made the circuit of the cathedral, passing twice before me where I leaned against a pillar. The priest who seemed of most consequence was a strange, down- looking old man. He kept mumbling34 prayers with his lips; but as he looked upon me darkling, it did not seem as if prayer were uppermost in his heart. Two others, who bore the burthen of the chaunt, were stout35, brutal36, military-looking men of forty, with bold, over-fed eyes; they sang with some lustiness, and trolled forth 'Ave Mary' like a garrison37 catch. The little girls were timid and grave. As they footed slowly up the aisle38, each one took a moment's glance at the Englishman; and the big nun39 who played marshal fairly stared him out of countenance40. As for the choristers, from first to last they misbehaved as only boys can misbehave; and cruelly marred41 the performance with their antics.
I understood a great deal of the spirit of what went on. Indeed it would be difficult not to understand the Miserere, which I take to be the composition of an atheist42. If it ever be a good thing to take such despondency to heart, the Miserere is the right music, and a cathedral a fit scene. So far I am at one with the Catholics:- an odd name for them, after all? But why, in God's name, these holiday choristers? why these priests who steal wandering looks about the congregation while they feign43 to be at prayer? why this fat nun, who rudely arranges her procession and shakes delinquent44 virgins45 by the elbow? why this spitting, and snuffing, and forgetting of keys, and the thousand and one little misadventures that disturb a frame of mind laboriously46 edified47 with chaunts and organings? In any play-house reverend fathers may see what can be done with a little art, and how, to move high sentiments, it is necessary to drill the supernumeraries and have every stool in its proper place.
One other circumstance distressed48 me. I could bear a Miserere myself, having had a good deal of open-air exercise of late; but I wished the old people somewhere else. It was neither the right sort of music nor the right sort of divinity for men and women who have come through most accidents by this time, and probably have an opinion of their own upon the tragic49 element in life. A person up in years can generally do his own Miserere for himself; although I notice that such an one often prefers Jubilate Deo for his ordinary singing. On the whole, the most religious exercise for the aged50 is probably to recall their own experience; so many friends dead, so many hopes disappointed, so many slips and stumbles, and withal so many bright days and smiling providences; there is surely the matter of a very eloquent51 sermon in all this.
On the whole, I was greatly solemnised. In the little pictorial52 map of our whole Inland Voyage, which my fancy still preserves, and sometimes unrolls for the amusement of odd moments, Noyon cathedral figures on a most preposterous53 scale, and must be nearly as large as a department. I can still see the faces of the priests as if they were at my elbow, and hear Ave Maria, ora pro15 nobis, sounding through the church. All Noyon is blotted54 out for me by these superior memories; and I do not care to say more about the place. It was but a stack of brown roofs at the best, where I believe people live very reputably in a quiet way; but the shadow of the church falls upon it when the sun is low, and the five bells are heard in all quarters, telling that the organ has begun. If ever I join the Church of Rome, I shall stipulate55 to be Bishop56 of Noyon on the Oise.
1 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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2 eminence | |
n.卓越,显赫;高地,高处;名家 | |
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3 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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4 disorder | |
n.紊乱,混乱;骚动,骚乱;疾病,失调 | |
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5 scrambling | |
v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 );攀登;争夺;(军事飞机)紧急起飞 | |
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6 attain | |
vt.达到,获得,完成 | |
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7 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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8 secular | |
n.牧师,凡人;adj.世俗的,现世的,不朽的 | |
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9 taper | |
n.小蜡烛,尖细,渐弱;adj.尖细的;v.逐渐变小 | |
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10 tapers | |
(长形物体的)逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 ); 微弱的光; 极细的蜡烛 | |
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11 flanges | |
n.(机械等的)凸缘,(火车的)轮缘( flange的名词复数 ) | |
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12 buttresses | |
n.扶壁,扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑,加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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13 swell | |
vi.膨胀,肿胀;增长,增强 | |
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14 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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15 pro | |
n.赞成,赞成的意见,赞成者 | |
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16 loft | |
n.阁楼,顶楼 | |
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17 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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18 chateau | |
n.城堡,别墅 | |
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19 specious | |
adj.似是而非的;adv.似是而非地 | |
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20 spires | |
n.(教堂的) 塔尖,尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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21 transcended | |
超出或超越(经验、信念、描写能力等)的范围( transcend的过去式和过去分词 ); 优于或胜过… | |
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22 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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23 fathom | |
v.领悟,彻底了解 | |
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24 expressive | |
adj.表现的,表达…的,富于表情的 | |
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25 aspirations | |
强烈的愿望( aspiration的名词复数 ); 志向; 发送气音; 发 h 音 | |
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26 ardent | |
adj.热情的,热烈的,强烈的,烈性的 | |
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27 groaning | |
adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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28 averse | |
adj.厌恶的;反对的,不乐意的 | |
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29 liking | |
n.爱好;嗜好;喜欢 | |
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30 beheld | |
v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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31 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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32 nave | |
n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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33 virgin | |
n.处女,未婚女子;adj.未经使用的;未经开发的 | |
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34 mumbling | |
含糊地说某事,叽咕,咕哝( mumble的现在分词 ) | |
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36 brutal | |
adj.残忍的,野蛮的,不讲理的 | |
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37 garrison | |
n.卫戍部队;驻地,卫戍区;vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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38 aisle | |
n.(教堂、教室、戏院等里的)过道,通道 | |
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39 nun | |
n.修女,尼姑 | |
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40 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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41 marred | |
adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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42 atheist | |
n.无神论者 | |
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43 feign | |
vt.假装,佯作 | |
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44 delinquent | |
adj.犯法的,有过失的;n.违法者 | |
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45 virgins | |
处女,童男( virgin的名词复数 ); 童贞玛利亚(耶稣之母) | |
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46 laboriously | |
adv.艰苦地;费力地;辛勤地;(文体等)佶屈聱牙地 | |
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47 edified | |
v.开导,启发( edify的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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48 distressed | |
痛苦的 | |
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49 tragic | |
adj.悲剧的,悲剧性的,悲惨的 | |
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50 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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51 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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52 pictorial | |
adj.绘画的;图片的;n.画报 | |
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53 preposterous | |
adj.荒谬的,可笑的 | |
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54 blotted | |
涂污( blot的过去式和过去分词 ); (用吸墨纸)吸干 | |
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55 stipulate | |
vt.规定,(作为条件)讲定,保证 | |
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56 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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