We put up at a big, bustling1 hotel in Compiegne, where nobody observed our presence.
Reservery and general militarismus (as the Germans call it) were rampant2. A camp of conical white tents without the town looked like a leaf out of a picture Bible; sword-belts decorated the walls of the cafes; and the streets kept sounding all day long with military music. It was not possible to be an Englishman and avoid a feeling of elation3; for the men who followed the drums were small, and walked shabbily. Each man inclined at his own angle, and jolted4 to his own convenience, as he went. There was nothing of the superb gait with which a regiment5 of tall Highlanders moves behind its music, solemn and inevitable6, like a natural phenomenon. Who that has seen it can forget the drum-major pacing in front, the drummers' tiger-skins, the pipers' swinging plaids, the strange elastic7 rhythm of the whole regiment footing it in time--and the bang of the drum, when the brasses8 cease, and the shrill9 pipes take up the martial10 story in their place?
A girl, at school in France, began to describe one of our regiments11 on parade to her French schoolmates; and as she went on, she told me, the recollection grew so vivid, she became so proud to be the countrywoman of such soldiers, and so sorry to be in another country, that her voice failed her and she burst into tears. I have never forgotten that girl; and I think she very nearly deserves a statue. To call her a young lady, with all its niminy associations, would be to offer her an insult. She may rest assured of one thing: although she never should marry a heroic general, never see any great or immediate12 result of her life, she will not have lived in vain for her native land.
But though French soldiers show to ill advantage on parade, on the march they are gay, alert, and willing like a troop of fox-hunters. I remember once seeing a company pass through the forest of Fontainebleau, on the Chailly road, between the Bas Breau and the Reine Blanche. One fellow walked a little before the rest, and sang a loud, audacious marching song. The rest bestirred their feet, and even swung their muskets13 in time. A young officer on horseback had hard ado to keep his countenance14 at the words. You never saw anything so cheerful and spontaneous as their gait; schoolboys do not look more eagerly at hare and hounds; and you would have thought it impossible to tire such willing marchers.
My great delight in Compiegne was the town-hall. I doted upon the town-hall. It is a monument of Gothic insecurity, all turreted15, and gargoyled, and slashed17, and bedizened with half a score of architectural fancies. Some of the niches18 are gilt19 and painted; and in a great square panel in the centre, in black relief on a gilt ground, Louis XII. rides upon a pacing horse, with hand on hip20 and head thrown back. There is royal arrogance21 in every line of him; the stirruped foot projects insolently22 from the frame; the eye is hard and proud; the very horse seems to be treading with gratification over prostrate23 serfs, and to have the breath of the trumpet24 in his nostrils25. So rides for ever, on the front of the town-hall, the good king Louis XII., the father of his people.
Over the king's head, in the tall centre turret16, appears the dial of a clock; and high above that, three little mechanical figures, each one with a hammer in his hand, whose business it is to chime out the hours and halves and quarters for the burgesses of Compiegne. The centre figure has a gilt breast-plate; the two others wear gilt trunk-hose; and they all three have elegant, flapping hats like cavaliers. As the quarter approaches, they turn their heads and look knowingly one to the other; and then, kling go the three hammers on three little bells below. The hour follows, deep and sonorous26, from the interior of the tower; and the gilded27 gentlemen rest from their labours with contentment.
I had a great deal of healthy pleasure from their manoeuvres, and took good care to miss as few performances as possible; and I found that even the Cigarette, while he pretended to despise my enthusiasm, was more or less a devotee himself. There is something highly absurd in the exposition of such toys to the outrages28 of winter on a housetop. They would be more in keeping in a glass case before a Nurnberg clock. Above all, at night, when the children are abed, and even grown people are snoring under quilts, does it not seem impertinent to leave these ginger-bread figures winking29 and tinkling30 to the stars and the rolling moon? The gargoyles31 may fitly enough twist their ape-like heads; fitly enough may the potentate32 bestride his charger, like a centurion33 in an old German print of the Via Dolorosa; but the toys should be put away in a box among some cotton, until the sun rises, and the children are abroad again to be amused.
In Compiegne post-office a great packet of letters awaited us; and the authorities were, for this occasion only, so polite as to hand them over upon application.
In some ways, our journey may be said to end with this letter-bag at Compiegne. The spell was broken. We had partly come home from that moment.
No one should have any correspondence on a journey; it is bad enough to have to write; but the receipt of letters is the death of all holiday feeling.
'Out of my country and myself I go.' I wish to take a dive among new conditions for a while, as into another element. I have nothing to do with my friends or my affections for the time; when I came away, I left my heart at home in a desk, or sent it forward with my portmanteau to await me at my destination. After my journey is over, I shall not fail to read your admirable letters with the attention they deserve. But I have paid all this money, look you, and paddled all these strokes, for no other purpose than to be abroad; and yet you keep me at home with your perpetual communications. You tug34 the string, and I feel that I am a tethered bird. You pursue me all over Europe with the little vexations that I came away to avoid. There is no discharge in the war of life, I am well aware; but shall there not be so much as a week's furlough?
We were up by six, the day we were to leave. They had taken so little note of us that I hardly thought they would have condescended35 on a bill. But they did, with some smart particulars too; and we paid in a civilised manner to an uninterested clerk, and went out of that hotel, with the india-rubber bags, unremarked. No one cared to know about us. It is not possible to rise before a village; but Compiegne was so grown a town, that it took its ease in the morning; and we were up and away while it was still in dressing-gown and slippers36. The streets were left to people washing door-steps; nobody was in full dress but the cavaliers upon the town-hall; they were all washed with dew, spruce in their gilding37, and full of intelligence and a sense of professional responsibility. Kling went they on the bells for the half-past six as we went by. I took it kind of them to make me this parting compliment; they never were in better form, not even at noon upon a Sunday.
There was no one to see us off but the early washerwomen--early and late--who were already beating the linen38 in their floating lavatory39 on the river. They were very merry and matutinal in their ways; plunged40 their arms boldly in, and seemed not to feel the shock. It would be dispiriting to me, this early beginning and first cold dabble41 of a most dispiriting day's work. But I believe they would have been as unwilling42 to change days with us as we could be to change with them. They crowded to the door to watch us paddle away into the thin sunny mists upon the river; and shouted heartily43 after us till we were through the bridge.
1 bustling | |
adj.喧闹的 | |
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2 rampant | |
adj.(植物)蔓生的;狂暴的,无约束的 | |
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3 elation | |
n.兴高采烈,洋洋得意 | |
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4 jolted | |
(使)摇动, (使)震惊( jolt的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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5 regiment | |
n.团,多数,管理;v.组织,编成团,统制 | |
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6 inevitable | |
adj.不可避免的,必然发生的 | |
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7 elastic | |
n.橡皮圈,松紧带;adj.有弹性的;灵活的 | |
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8 brasses | |
n.黄铜( brass的名词复数 );铜管乐器;钱;黄铜饰品(尤指马挽具上的黄铜圆片) | |
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9 shrill | |
adj.尖声的;刺耳的;v尖叫 | |
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10 martial | |
adj.战争的,军事的,尚武的,威武的 | |
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11 regiments | |
(军队的)团( regiment的名词复数 ); 大量的人或物 | |
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12 immediate | |
adj.立即的;直接的,最接近的;紧靠的 | |
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13 muskets | |
n.火枪,(尤指)滑膛枪( musket的名词复数 ) | |
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14 countenance | |
n.脸色,面容;面部表情;vt.支持,赞同 | |
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15 turreted | |
a.(像炮塔般)旋转式的 | |
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16 turret | |
n.塔楼,角塔 | |
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17 slashed | |
v.挥砍( slash的过去式和过去分词 );鞭打;割破;削减 | |
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18 niches | |
壁龛( niche的名词复数 ); 合适的位置[工作等]; (产品的)商机; 生态位(一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位) | |
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19 gilt | |
adj.镀金的;n.金边证券 | |
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20 hip | |
n.臀部,髋;屋脊 | |
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21 arrogance | |
n.傲慢,自大 | |
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22 insolently | |
adv.自豪地,自傲地 | |
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23 prostrate | |
v.拜倒,平卧,衰竭;adj.拜倒的,平卧的,衰竭的 | |
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24 trumpet | |
n.喇叭,喇叭声;v.吹喇叭,吹嘘 | |
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25 nostrils | |
鼻孔( nostril的名词复数 ) | |
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26 sonorous | |
adj.响亮的,回响的;adv.圆润低沉地;感人地;n.感人,堂皇 | |
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27 gilded | |
a.镀金的,富有的 | |
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28 outrages | |
引起…的义愤,激怒( outrage的第三人称单数 ) | |
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29 winking | |
n.瞬眼,目语v.使眼色( wink的现在分词 );递眼色(表示友好或高兴等);(指光)闪烁;闪亮 | |
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30 tinkling | |
n.丁当作响声 | |
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31 gargoyles | |
n.怪兽状滴水嘴( gargoyle的名词复数 ) | |
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32 potentate | |
n.统治者;君主 | |
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33 centurion | |
n.古罗马的百人队长 | |
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34 tug | |
v.用力拖(或拉);苦干;n.拖;苦干;拖船 | |
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35 condescended | |
屈尊,俯就( condescend的过去式和过去分词 ); 故意表示和蔼可亲 | |
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36 slippers | |
n. 拖鞋 | |
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37 gilding | |
n.贴金箔,镀金 | |
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38 linen | |
n.亚麻布,亚麻线,亚麻制品;adj.亚麻布制的,亚麻的 | |
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39 lavatory | |
n.盥洗室,厕所 | |
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40 plunged | |
v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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41 dabble | |
v.涉足,浅赏 | |
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42 unwilling | |
adj.不情愿的 | |
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43 heartily | |
adv.衷心地,诚恳地,十分,很 | |
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