"And see the mind's convulsion leave it weak."
The land breeze continued to freshen, and the first dawn of morning saw our party on deck, scanning with near view, the opposite coasts of Sicily and Italy, as their vessel1 glided2 through the Faro of Messina.
Some pilot boats,--how unlike those which greet the homeward-bound voyager, as he first hails Britain's chalky cliffs--crowded around the vessel, offering their services to guide it through the strait.
Avarice--one incentive3 to language--had endowed these Sicilian mariners4 with a competent knowledge of English, which they dealt out vociferously5.
As the Captain made his selection, the rejected candidates failed not to use that familiar English salam; half the gusto of which is lost, when used by foreign lip.
On the Calabrian coast, the sea-port town of Reggio wore an unusual air of bustle6 and animation7.
It was a festa day there; and groups of peasants, in many-coloured costumes, paced up and down the mole8; emitting that joyous9 hum, which is the never-failing concomitant of a happy crowd. Passing through the Faro, the vessel's course lay by the northern coast of Sicily. The current and wind were alike favourable10, as it swept on by Melazzo and Lascari.
Etna, towering over the lesser11 mountains, became once more visible; its summit buried in the clouds of heaven.
On the right, a luminous12 crimson13 ring revealed Stromboli, whose fitful volcano was more than usually active.
The following day our party arrived at Palermo. So pleasurable had been their voyage, that it was with a feeling akin14 to regret, that they heard the rumbling15 chains of the anchor, rush through the hawse-hole, as their vessel took her station in the bay.
After going through those wearisome forms, which a foreign sea-port exacts; and which appear purposely intended, to temper the rapture16 of the sea-worn voyager, as he congratulates himself on once more treading terra firma; our party found themselves the inmates18 of the English hotel; and spent the remainder of the day in engaging a cicerone, and in discussing plans for the morrow.
The morrow came--sunny and cloudless--and the cicerone bowed to the ground, as he opened the door of the commodious19 fiacre.
"Where shall I drive to, Sir?"
"What were our plans, George?" said Sir Henry.
"I think," replied George, "that we only formed one plan to change it for another. Let the cicerone decide for us."
He, nothing loath20, accepted the charge; and taking his station on the box of the carriage, directed the driver.
The carriage first stopped before a large stone building. The bell was rung--a veteran porter presented himself--and our party entered the court yard.
"What place is this?" said Delme.
"This," rejoined his guide, with the true cicerone fluency21, "is the famous lunatic asylum22, instituted by the illustrious Baron23 Pisani. This, gentlemen, is the Baron!"
Here a benevolent24-looking little man with a large nose, took off his hat.
"So much approved of was his beneficent design, that our noble King, and our paternal25 Government, have not only adopted it; but have graciously permitted the Baron, to continue to preside over that institution, which he so happily commenced, and which he so refulgently26 adorns27."
During this announcement, the Baron's face flushed with a simple, but honest pride.
These praises did not to him appear exaggerated; for his intentions had been of the purest, and in this institution was his whole soul wrapt up. Acme28 became somewhat pale, as she heard where they were, and looked nervously29 at George; who could not forbear smiling, as he begged they would be under no apprehensions30.
"Yes! gentlemen," said the Baron, "circumstances in early life made me regard mental disease as the most fearful of all. I observed its victims struggling between reason and insanity31; goaded32 on by the ignorance of empirics, and the harsh treatment of those about them, until light fled the tortured brain, and madness directed its every impulse. You, gentlemen, are English travellers, I perceive! In your happy land, where generosity33 and wealth go hand in hand, there are, I doubt not, many humane34 institutions, where those, who--bowed down by misfortunes, or preyed35 on by disease--have lost the power to take care of themselves, may find a home, where they may be anxiously tended, and carefully provided for.
"Here we knew not of such things.
"I have said, gentlemen, that chance made me feel a deep interest in these unfortunates. I sunk the greater part of my fortune, in constructing this mansion37, trusting that the subscriptions38 of individuals, would enable me to prosecute39 the good work.
"In this I was disappointed; but our worthy40 Viceroy, who took an interest in my plans, laid the matter before the Government, which--as Signer Guiseppe observes--has not only undertaken to support my asylum, but also permits me to preside over the establishment. That, gentlemen, is my apartment, with the mignionette boxes in front, and without iron bars in the window; though indeed these very bars are painted, at my suggestion, such a delicate green, that you might not have been aware that they were such.
"This is our first chamber--cheerful and snug41. Here are the patients first brought. We indulge them in all their caprices, until we are enabled to decide with certainty, on the fantasy the brain has conjured42 up. From this room, we take them to the adjacent bed-room, where we administer such remedies as we think the best fitted to restore reason.
"If these fail, we apportion43 the patient a cell, and consider the case as beyond our immediate44 relief. We cure, on an average, two-thirds of the cases forwarded to us; and there have been instances of the mind's recovering its tone, after a confinement45 of some years."
"How many inmates have you in the asylum at present?" said Acme.
"One hundred and thirty-six, eighty-six of whom are males. These are our baths, to which they are daily taken; this the refectory; this the parlatorio, where they see their friends; and now, if the lady is not afraid, we will descend46 to the court yard, and see my charges."
"There is no fear?" said George.
"Not in the least. Our punishment is so formidable, that few will incur47 it by being refractory48."
"What! then you are obliged to punish them?" said Acme, with a shudder49.
"Sometimes, but not often. I will show you what our punishment consists in. You see this room without furniture! Observe the walls and floor; and even the door as it closes. All these are carefully stuffed; and if you walk across the room, there is no sound.
"We cautiously search violent lunatics; who are then dressed in a plain flannel50 suit, and left alone. It is seldom we have occasion to retain them longer than twenty-four hours. They soon find they cannot injure themselves; their most violent efforts cannot elicit51 a sound. Their minds become calmed; and when released, they are perfectly52 quiet, and generally inclined to melancholy53."
They descended54 to the court yard, set apart for the men. Its inmates were pacing it hurriedly; some jabbering55 to themselves; others with groups round them, to whom they addressed some quickly delivered jargon56. With one or two exceptions, all noticed the entrance of the strangers; and some of them bowed to them, with mock gravity. One man, who wore an old cocked hat with a shabby feather, tapped Sir Henry on the shoulder.
"Vous me reconnaissez--Napoleon! votre Empereur!"
He wheeled round, and called for his Mamelukes.
The next moment, a young and interesting looking person came forward, the tears standing57 in his, eyes, and extended his hand to Acme.
"Give me yours," said he, "as a great favour. I was a painter once in Naples--and I went to Rome--and I loved Gianetta Cantieri!"
A more ludicrous incident now occurred. At and since their entrance, our party had heard what seemed the continued bark of a dog. A man on all fours came forward from behind a group, and with unmeaning face, and nostril58 snuffing up the wind, imitated to perfection the deep bay of a mastiff.
"That man's peculiarity," observed the Baron, "is an extraordinary one. He had a cottage near Catania, and had saved some little wealth. His house was one night robbed of all it contained. This misfortune preyed on the man's reason, and he now conceives himself a watch dog. He knows the step of every inmate17 of the asylum, and only barks at strangers."
From the male court yard, the Baron ushered59 them to the female, where insanity assumed a yet more melancholy shape.
A pale-faced maniac60, with quivering frame, and glaring eye-balls, continued to cry, in a low and piteous tone, "Murder! murder!! murder!!!"
One woman, reclining on the cold pavement, dandled a straw, and called it her sweet child; while another hugged a misshapen block of wood to her bared breast, and deemed it her true love.
A third was on her knees, and at regular intervals61, bent62 down her shrivelled body, and devoured63 the gravel64 beneath her.
Acme was happy to leave the scene, and move towards the garden; which was extensive, and beautifully laid out.
As they turned down one of the alleys65, they encountered five or six men, drawn66 up in line, and armed with wooden muskets67.
In front stood Napoleon, who, with stentorian68 voice, gave the word to "present arms!" then dropping his stick, and taking off his hat to Delme, began to converse69 familiarly with him, as with his friend Emperor Alexander, as to the efficiency of Poniatowski and his Polish lancers.
"Poor fellow!" said the Baron, as they moved on. "Never was insanity more harmless! He was once brigade major to Murat. This is his hour for exercise. Exactly at two, he goes through the scene of Fontainbleau, What will appear to you extraordinary is, that over the five or six men you saw around him, whose madness has been marked by few distinguishing traits, he has gradually assumed a superiority, until they now believe him to be, in reality, the Emperor he so unconsciously personates."
In the garden, which was of considerable size, were placed a number of swings and whirligigs, in full motion and occupancy.
On a stuccoed wall, were represented grotesque70 figures of animals dancing; opposite to which, one of Terpsichore's votaries71, with a paper cap on his head, shaped like a pyramid, was executing agile72 capers73, whose zeal74 of purpose would have found infinite favour in the eyes of Laporte.
Having explored the garden, Delme accompanied the Baron to a small room, where the sculls of the deceased maniacs75 were ranged on shelves, with a small biographical note attached to each; and heard with attention, the old man's energetic reasoning, as to these fully36 demonstrating the truth of Spurzheim's theory.
Acme, meantime, remained on George's arm, talking to a girl of thirteen, who had been selected to conduct them to the carriage.
They entered their names in a book at the lodge76, and then, turning to the benevolent director, paid him some well deserved compliments, for which he bowed low and often.
The young girl, who had been conversing77 most rationally with Acme, moved forward, and made a signal for the carriage to drive up.
She was a fair-haired gentle-looking creature, with quiet eye, and silvery voice. She assisted Acme to step into the carriage, who dropped a piece of silver into her hand, for which she gave a sweet smile and a curtsey.
She stood a moment motionless. Suddenly her eye lighted up--she darted78 into the carriage, and clapped her hands together joyfully79.
"Viva! viva! we shall soon be home at Trapani!"
The tears sprang to the eyes of the young Greek.
Even the driver and cicerone were moved.
Acme took some flowers from her zone--kissed her cheek--and tried to change the current of her thoughts; but it was not till the driver promised he would call again, at the same hour the following day, that she consented with a sigh to relinquish80 her journey home.
From the Lunatic Asylum, our party adjourned81 to the Duomo, and beheld82 the coffin83, where the revered84 body of the Palermitan Saint, attracts many a devout85 Catholic.
Sweet Rosalia! thy story is a pretty one--thy festa beauteous--the fireworks in thy honour most bright. No wonder the fair Sicilians adore thy memory.
In the cool of the evening, our travellers drove to the Marina; where custom--the crowded assemblage--and the grateful sea breeze--nightly attract the gay inhabitants of Palermo.
The carriages, with their epauletted chasseurs, swept on in giddy succession, and made a scene quite as imposing86 as is witnessed in most European capitals.
Delme did not think it advisable, to remain too long in the metropolis87 of Sicily; and the travellers contented88 themselves, with the sight-seeing of the immediate neighbourhood.
They admired the mosaics89 of the Chiesa di Monte Reale; and fed the pheasants, at that beautiful royal villa90, well styled "the Favourite." They took a boat to witness the tunny fishery; and Sir Henry explored alone the vast catacombs--that city of the dead.
After a few days thus passed--the weather continuing uncommonly91 fine--they did not hesitate to engage one of the small vessels92 of the place, to convey them to Naples.
After enjoying their evening drive as usual, they embarked93 on board the Sparonara, one fine starry94 night, in order to get the full advantage of the favouring night breeze.
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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incentive
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| n.刺激；动力；鼓励；诱因；动机 | |
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mariners
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| 海员，水手（mariner的复数形式） | |
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vociferously
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| adv.喊叫地，吵闹地 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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animation
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| n.活泼，兴奋，卡通片／动画片的制作 | |
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mole
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| n.胎块；痣；克分子 | |
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joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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lesser
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| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
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luminous
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| adj.发光的，发亮的；光明的；明白易懂的；有启发的 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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akin
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| adj.同族的，类似的 | |
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rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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rapture
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| n.狂喜；全神贯注；着迷；v.使狂喜 | |
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inmate
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| n.被收容者；(房屋等的)居住人；住院人 | |
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inmates
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| n.囚犯( inmate的名词复数 ) | |
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commodious
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| adj.宽敞的；使用方便的 | |
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loath
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| adj.不愿意的；勉强的 | |
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fluency
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| n.流畅，雄辩，善辩 | |
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asylum
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| n.避难所，庇护所，避难 | |
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baron
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| n.男爵；(商业界等)巨头，大王 | |
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benevolent
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| adj.仁慈的，乐善好施的 | |
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paternal
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| adj.父亲的，像父亲的，父系的，父方的 | |
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refulgently
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| adj.光辉的，辉煌的 | |
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adorns
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| 装饰，佩带( adorn的第三人称单数 ) | |
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acme
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| n.顶点，极点 | |
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nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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apprehensions
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| 疑惧 | |
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insanity
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| n.疯狂，精神错乱；极端的愚蠢，荒唐 | |
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goaded
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| v.刺激( goad的过去式和过去分词 )；激励；（用尖棒）驱赶；驱使（或怂恿、刺激）某人 | |
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generosity
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| n.大度，慷慨，慷慨的行为 | |
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humane
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| adj.人道的，富有同情心的 | |
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preyed
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| v.掠食( prey的过去式和过去分词 )；掠食；折磨；（人）靠欺诈为生 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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subscriptions
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| n.（报刊等的）订阅费( subscription的名词复数 )；捐款；（俱乐部的）会员费；捐助 | |
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prosecute
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| vt.告发；进行；vi.告发，起诉，作检察官 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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conjured
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| 用魔术变出( conjure的过去式和过去分词 )； 祈求，恳求； 变戏法； （变魔术般地） 使…出现 | |
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apportion
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| vt.（按比例或计划）分配 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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incur
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| vt.招致，蒙受，遭遇 | |
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refractory
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| adj.倔强的，难驾驭的 | |
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shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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elicit
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| v.引出,抽出,引起 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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jabbering
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| v.急切而含混不清地说( jabber的现在分词 )；急促兴奋地说话；结结巴巴 | |
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jargon
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| n.术语，行话 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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nostril
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| n.鼻孔 | |
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ushered
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| v.引，领，陪同( usher的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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maniac
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| n.精神癫狂的人；疯子 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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muskets
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| n.火枪，（尤指）滑膛枪( musket的名词复数 ) | |
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stentorian
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| adj.大声的，响亮的 | |
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converse
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| vi.谈话，谈天，闲聊；adv.相反的，相反 | |
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grotesque
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| adj.怪诞的，丑陋的；n.怪诞的图案，怪人（物） | |
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votaries
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| n.信徒( votary的名词复数 )；追随者；（天主教）修士；修女 | |
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agile
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| adj.敏捷的，灵活的 | |
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capers
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| n.开玩笑( caper的名词复数 )；刺山柑v.跳跃，雀跃( caper的第三人称单数 ) | |
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zeal
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| n.热心，热情，热忱 | |
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maniacs
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| n.疯子（maniac的复数形式） | |
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lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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conversing
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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78
darted
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的过去式和过去分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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79
joyfully
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| adv. 喜悦地, 高兴地 | |
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80
relinquish
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| v.放弃，撤回，让与，放手 | |
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81
adjourned
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| （使）休会， （使）休庭( adjourn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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82
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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83
coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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84
revered
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| v.崇敬，尊崇，敬畏( revere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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85
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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86
imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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87
metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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88
contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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89
mosaics
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| n.马赛克( mosaic的名词复数 )；镶嵌；镶嵌工艺；镶嵌图案 | |
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90
villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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91
uncommonly
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| adv. 稀罕(极，非常) | |
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92
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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93
embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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94
starry
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| adj.星光照耀的, 闪亮的 | |
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