Returning to Skagway the gentlemen of our party were entertained at a banquet given by the members of the Chamber3 of Commerce, in their building.
The ladies were invited by Mrs. Bracket to her lovely home where a delightful4 luncheon5 was served. The leading ladies of Skagway were met at the home of our charming hostess[86] to bid us welcome to their enterprising little city.
An employe of the engineering department of the White Pass and Yukon Railroad is at the Portland hotel. He came in from Cariboo Crossing to celebrate the Fourth, and recuperate6 from a hard trip up the Watson river and along the foothills of the mountains to the Fifty Mile river below White Horse Rapids. Most of the country through which the party traveled is entirely7 new to map makers8 and no signs of trails, mess debris9, chopping or other evidences of a previous visitation could be found. As a consequence a number of streams and lakes were discovered. Of the latter some are quite large and are teeming10 with large lake trout11. The latter were caught in large numbers by throwing a common pickerel trotting12 hook, attached to a line, out into the lake and hauling it ashore13. It was seldom that a cast failed to land a fish. Artificial flies had no attraction for them. In appearance these fish look very much like the mountain trout of Puget Sound, but are much lighter14 in color. The topographer of the party says they are identical with the trout found in the Adirondack lake regions.
[87]
The head chainman killed a huge brown bear, which, after being shot, made a furious charge upon him and was only laid low when but a few feet away from his slayer15.
The lower lands of this country are almost entirely devoid16 of rock. The soil is an ashy sand patched with powdered limestone17 stretching over the country in white patches like alkali lakes. On the Forty Mile river declivity18 the country is cut up with huge pot-holes. Many of these contain lakes of the purest water, that gleam in the sunlight in green, azure19 and dark blue according to their depths and shades. A curious peculiarity20 of these lakes lies in the fact that their outlets21 and inlets are subterranean22. They receive their supply from the bottoms of lakes above and their overflow23 percolates24 through their lower banks to lakes below.
The country swarms25 with ducks, snipe and other water fowl26. It is now the breeding season and ducks followed by broods of ducklings may be seen along the edge of every sheet of water. Much fresh sign of bear, moose, mountain sheep and cariboo were seen throughout the country, but the noise attendant upon the progress of the party along the line of their[88] journey, gave all the big game a good opportunity to get out of sight.
The open coulées and plateaus of this country are waving with luxuriant bunch-grass, rye-grass and redtop, but the mosquitoes are in such untold27 numbers and so violent in their attacks that the pack horses of the party were too worried to receive much benefit in grazing. In places are woodlands of large spruce and tall lodge-pole pines, but most of the timber is scrubby and fit only for fuel.
No indications of mineral could be seen.
The night before the Fourth a large flag was planted on top of Mt. Dewey. The town was decorated with bunting and flags. Well dressed people thronged28 the streets. An oration29 was delivered from the grand stand and foot and horse races lent zest30 to the sports.
The town has two fire companies. These exhibited their hose-carts and ran a race, making an exhibition of their skill in handling the hose. Water is plenty, as it comes down the mountain side in a vast volume from a lake near the summit of Mt. Dewey and is piped over the town.
While the town looks and is new there was nothing to distinguish the celebration of the national[89] holiday from the same day in the States.
We are now above the line of night. It is as light as day all night. No light is needed as one can read at any time of night without it. The sun scarcely sets in the west until it rises in the east. At Summit lake, which is at the top of the mountains, there is no night at all, it being in latitude32 sixty north and longitude33 one hundred and sixty west.
The display of the aurora34 borealis each night is a scene never to be forgotten. Night after night the whole northern sky is aflame with a light akin31 to sunlight tempered by moonlight and enriched by the splendor35 of the rainbow’s glorious hues36. The Tlingit Indians believe the aurora to be the ghost-dance of dead warriors37 who live on the plains of the sky.
The Skagway enchantress is a figure in stone high up on the mountain side resembling a woman. Her flowing garments resemble those of a stylish38 Parisian gown. The Indians formerly39 crossed the mountains at this point, Chilkat Pass, but this witch long ago enchanted40 the trail, so that it meant death to follow it. The Indians now turn aside here and follow the White Pass.
High above the enchantress’s head a bear, whose head is plainly visible, stands guard over her.
If you look long enough on a moonlight night you can see the Enchantress move, but she cannot leave the mountain. She cannot come down, yet Chilkat Pass remains41 enchanted.
点击收听单词发音
1 derived | |
vi.起源;由来;衍生;导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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2 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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3 chamber | |
n.房间,寝室;会议厅;议院;会所 | |
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4 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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5 luncheon | |
n.午宴,午餐,便宴 | |
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6 recuperate | |
v.恢复 | |
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7 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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8 makers | |
n.制造者,制造商(maker的复数形式) | |
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9 debris | |
n.瓦砾堆,废墟,碎片 | |
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10 teeming | |
adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 );到处都是;(指水、雨等)暴降;倾注 | |
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11 trout | |
n.鳟鱼;鲑鱼(属) | |
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12 trotting | |
小跑,急走( trot的现在分词 ); 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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13 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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14 lighter | |
n.打火机,点火器;驳船;v.用驳船运送;light的比较级 | |
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15 slayer | |
n. 杀人者,凶手 | |
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16 devoid | |
adj.全无的,缺乏的 | |
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17 limestone | |
n.石灰石 | |
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18 declivity | |
n.下坡,倾斜面 | |
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19 azure | |
adj.天蓝色的,蔚蓝色的 | |
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20 peculiarity | |
n.独特性,特色;特殊的东西;怪癖 | |
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21 outlets | |
n.出口( outlet的名词复数 );经销店;插座;廉价经销店 | |
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22 subterranean | |
adj.地下的,地表下的 | |
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23 overflow | |
v.(使)外溢,(使)溢出;溢出,流出,漫出 | |
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24 percolates | |
v.滤( percolate的第三人称单数 );渗透;(思想等)渗透;渗入 | |
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25 swarms | |
蜂群,一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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26 fowl | |
n.家禽,鸡,禽肉 | |
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27 untold | |
adj.数不清的,无数的 | |
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28 thronged | |
v.成群,挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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29 oration | |
n.演说,致辞,叙述法 | |
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30 zest | |
n.乐趣;滋味,风味;兴趣 | |
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31 akin | |
adj.同族的,类似的 | |
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32 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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33 longitude | |
n.经线,经度 | |
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34 aurora | |
n.极光 | |
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35 splendor | |
n.光彩;壮丽,华丽;显赫,辉煌 | |
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36 hues | |
色彩( hue的名词复数 ); 色调; 信仰; 观点 | |
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37 warriors | |
武士,勇士,战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
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38 stylish | |
adj.流行的,时髦的;漂亮的,气派的 | |
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39 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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40 enchanted | |
adj. 被施魔法的,陶醉的,入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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41 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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