A friend of the writer who owns mines at Cook’s Inlet thus describes his voyage north along the coast to Unalaska:
We were now aboard the Excelsior. About noon the next day we put out to sea and saw no more island passages such as we had seen while aboard the Queen.
Our first stop was at Yakutat, an Indian village on the Yakutat Bay. This bay is only an indentation of the coast, curving inward for about twenty miles. The whole force of the Pacific sweeps into it. Landing is both difficult and dangerous. In the bay are always many icebergs2 from the glaciers3 at its head.
Great excitement prevailed here in 1880 when gold was discovered in the black sand beaches. The rotary5 hand amalgamators were used and as much as forty dollars per day to the man was often realized. The miners, however, had reckoned without their host; the[117] Yakutat chief, who suddenly developed financial ability worthy6 of his white brother, exacted licenses7 and royalties8 from the miners.
This black sand mine was not yet exhausted9 when a tidal wave heaped the coast with fish. These decayed in the hot sun and the oil soaked down into the sand. The mercury would not work and the miners moved to a new beach, but again a tidal wave ruined the mines by washing all the black sand out to sea. Yakutat was then deserted10 by the miners. The Indian women of this village are the finest basket weavers11 in Alaska.
Soon after leaving Yakutat we sighted Mt. St. Elias and the Malispania glacier4. The Indians call it Bolshoi Shopka—great one. This snow-clad mountain, nearly four miles high, beautiful as Valaskjalf, the silver roofed mansion12 of Odin, is a most magnificent sight. Such grandeur13, such solidity, such poetry of color,—the white peak kisses the blue heaven,—such solitude14. Like the golden few of earth’s great ones, it stands alone, isolated16 by its very greatness.
The Malispania glacier which flows down from a great névé field in the mountains, is said to be the largest glacier in the world. It is[118] nearly one hundred miles long and thirty-five miles wide where it pours into the sea, and rises four hundred and fifty feet above tide water.
Orca, on the shore of Prince William’s Sound, lies snuggled up under the rugged17 cliffs, which rise sheer thousands of feet high. From the woods beyond a noisy river goes leaping down the rocks to the sea, where its power is chained to run the machinery18 of a cannery. That other Orca was a powerful sea dragon, especially fond of a seal diet, but this Orca preys19 only on the salmon20.
Our next stop was at Valdes, where two years ago two thousand miners started for Copper21 River, to prospect22 for gold, but they were doomed23 to disappointment, as yet no gold has been discovered on this river. Many and sad are the tales of hardships endured by these miners. Some worked their way up the Copper River and down Tanana River to the Yukon, but by far the greater number returned to Valdes destitute24. Many of the miners lost their lives on the Valdes’ glacier. In going to Copper River they had to travel eighteen miles across this treacherous25 glacier. Nine men lost their lives here last winter.
At Valdes is located a government expedition under the command of Captain Ambercrombie. The object of this expedition is to study the topography of the country and to make surveys. The government is doing much to aid stranded26 miners to reach Seattle. For thirty days’ work they are paid five dollars and given a free passage to that city.
Prince William Sound is a fine body of water. It is almost surrounded by land. Abrupt27 mountains rise seemingly out of the sea. It is deeply indented28 by fiords and inlets running back from ten to twenty-five miles. On the south it is protected by mountainous islands. In coming out of this sound we passed around Mummy Point, into the ocean. Presently we came to the Seal Rocks. They were alive with seals. When the engineer blew the whistle they went plunging29 into the sea, making a great splash. Whales and porpoises30 bob their noses up through the brine—descendants, no doubt, of that gallant31 crew of Tyrrhenian mariners33 changed by angry Bacchus to dolphins in that dusky old time when the gods held sway over nature’s forces.
From here to Cook’s Inlet we had rough sailing.[120] Neptune34 was out on a lark35. We realized fully36 that he was king of the sea and that we were his timid subjects.
The crowning glory of Alaska’s natural attractions is Cook’s Inlet. Sheltered by a great mountain wall on the west, its shores enjoy delightful37 summer weather. Only the pen of a Milton or the matchless brush of a Turner could paint this fair empire of earth, sea and air. Glacier after glacier, frozen to the cold breast of the mountains, lay glistening38 in the sunshine. The finest waterfalls in Alaska leap from rugged cliffs and go singing to the sea.
A grand panorama39 of snowy peaks, smoking volcanoes, forested slopes, grassy40 glades41 bright with flowers and fertile valleys, lend enchantment42 to this wild Arcadia of the North. Goethe truly says: “Him whom the gods true art would teach, they send out into the mighty43 world.”
Moose graze in the open glades, mountain goat and sheep leap from cliff to rock and away. Extensive level plateaus line both shores of the inlet, which will make fine grazing country some day in the near future. The grass grows luxuriantly and in many places reaches a height of six feet. We traveled up the inlet seventy[121] miles to a branch of the inlet known as the Turnagain Arm, which is from five to eight miles wide and enclosed by high mountains. These mountains are covered with timber at the base. Tall grass covers the mountain side to the height of three thousand feet, sweet grass for all the flocks of some future Pan.
We landed at Sunrise, which is the largest city on the inlet. It has a population of one hundred and fifty, mostly miners. Hope, twelve miles away, has a population of seventy-five miners. Fine vegetables grow here. A storekeeper has a small garden. His potatoes are as fine as any grown in the states, some weighing one and one-half pounds. He has cabbages weighing seven pounds, and turnips44 weighing eleven pounds. Beets45, peas and other vegetables are as fine as grown anywhere. People who have lived here during the winters say that the temperature rarely falls twenty degrees below zero, and that the winters are dry and without blizzards46.
Moose, mountain goat and wild sheep furnish the towns and camps with meat, which is usually bought from the Indians, who are good hunters, but very superstitious47. They are afraid of a giant who, Odin like, rides from mountain[122] to mountain on the wind, killing48 every Indian whom he finds traveling alone. White men don’t count, so if you wish to employ a guide to accompany you on a hunting expedition you must also employ a brother Indian to protect him, or he “no go.”
Farther south along the coast a black dwarf49 haunts the mountains, making life miserable50 for lone15 Indians. His arrows, like the magical spear of Odin, never miss their mark.
In the mountains north and west of the inlet a giant floats his birch canoe on the wind, from peak to peak, seeking lone Indians, whom he slays51 with the canoe paddles. This wonderful canoe, like that good ship of Frey, always gets a fair wind, no matter for what port its oarsman is bound.
This portion of the inlet, Turnagain Arm, is a treacherous bit of water. The highest tides rise fifty feet. Then there is the bore, which runs up just as the tide comes in, rising eighteen to twenty feet perpendicularly52.
No boat can live in it. The tide usually comes in three great waves, one right after the other. The water is thick with mud, ground up by the glaciers at the head of the Arm and brought down by the streams.
[123]
There will be some good placer mines in Cook’s Inlet when the country is properly opened, but it has hardly been prospected53 as yet, owing to the difficulty in sinking shafts55 to bed rock on account of the water coming in so rapidly. It is necessary to go through bed rock to the glacier channels below for the main deposits of gold.
By timbering the shafts the water may be kept out. The soil and gravel56 taken out of a shaft54 which has just been sunk averages only twenty-five cents per cubic yard, but the owners intend to go through the rock to the channels below, where they expect to strike a rich vein57, make their fortunes and return to civilization.
There is usually a light freeze about the middle of September, after which the weather is fine until the last of November.
The king of volcanoes in this region is Iliamna. Steam and smoke issue from two craters58 at the summit of the snow-clad mountain. During an eruption59 this giant shakes the earth to its very center.
This wonderful estuary60 was discovered by Captain Cook, on the natal61 day of Princess Elizabeth, May 21, 1778. He took possession in the name of her majesty62, and buried his[124] records in a bottle at Possession Point. Vancouver searched for these records in vain.
Tramways, stone piers63 and decaying buildings speak in unmistakable language of busy scenes during Russian occupation.
Five hundred miles west of Sitka, on the shore of Kadiak, one of the emerald isles64 of the Alaskan coast, is St. Paul, the first capital of Alaska, and the center of the fur trade established by Shelikoff and Baranhoff.
The natives say that many summers ago the Kadiak Islands were separated from the mainland by a very narrow channel. One day a big otter65 attempting to swim through was caught fast. He struggled until he widened the Shelikoff Strait, when he swam triumphantly66 through. A bad Indian and his dog sent adrift on a big stone turned into the largest Kadiak, on the shore of which St. Paul is located. The Kadiakers are descended67 from the daughter of a great chief of the north, who, with her husband and dogs, was banished68 from her father’s lodge69.
The forest on these islands consists of a few scattered70 groves71. The grass, shrubs72 and mosses73 bathed in a perpetual fog are so brilliantly green as to dazzle the eye.
[125]
The dug-out canoe disappears here and boats of sea lion and walrus74 skins stretched over frames of drift wood lightly skim the blue waters of the cold sea.
As we steam along through sunshine and fog, past glaciers, mountains and fiords, “so wide the loneliness, so lucid75 the air,” we are reminded that the Ancient Mariner32 sailed the blue Pacific. Now the sun drops into the sea, lighting76 it up with a luminous77 glow. With a tremor78 and a sparkle the purple waves glimmer79 red, now shadow to a violet hue80, and now to a crimson81 blue.
“Tries one, tries all, and will not stay
But flits from opal hue to hue.”
The volcanoes of Alaska! What a grand, what a wonderful panorama, as if you had rubbed Aladdin’s lamp. Expectation stood in awe82 when this giant upheaval83 was in progress. Enwrapped always in the mellow84 haze85 of white smoke and blue atmosphere, the cold clouds kissing their white brows, these sentinels old, like Wordsworth mountain, “look familiar with forgotten years.”
The prince of them all, Shishaldin, rises nine thousand feet, trailing his white robes in the blue sea.
[126]
The seventy islands of the Aleutian chain lie along the coast for thousands of miles. These islands are treeless, but green with Arctic grasses and mosses.
At Unalaska the Russians have a nicely built church. These Greek churches have no pews, the congregation standing86 and kneeling during the service. The priest in charge of this church speaks no English. These churches all pay an annual tribute to the patriarch in Moscow. This is all un-American. The Mary Lee Home, a Methodist mission, has a small school here.
The Aleuts, a kind, gentle people, suffered much at the hands of their Russian masters in the past. The Aleuts living in sod huts are the Crofters of America.
The fine flower of the fauna87 of Alaska is found in the valley of the Koyukuk River. Here tusks88 and bones of mastodons are found imbedded in the sand banks and gravel bars.
Since the discovery of gold in Alaska the Indians have saved many lives. Born and reared amidst these wild surroundings, where winter white and hoary89 stands ever at the gate of the North, wagging his shaggy beard, they have partaken of the very nature of their own rugged mountains. The long Arctic nights and the intense[127] cold have given these people hearts of steel and muscles of iron.
Are you ill? Are you starving? No mountain is too high, no snow too deep, but one of these heroes will climb the one or plunge90 undauntedly through the other to bring you succor91.
In the chilly92 Arctic sea there lies a mysterious island, the home of the ice goblin, who kicked it loose from, no one knows where, so the legend runs, and towed it to its present location.
Its mountains are the highest, its gorges93 the deepest, and its fields and fiords the grandest in the world.
It was a most magnificent island before the goblin stole it and dragged it away into the great ice fields of the North. It was clothed in rich verdure. Birds sang, flowers bloomed, and gay butterflies hovered94 over them.
This was not at all to the goblin’s taste, so he threw a sheet of ice over mountain, field and fiord. In his ice castle on the summit of the loftiest peak reigns95 the great ice goblin, sending out storms over sea and land, and pouring ice, snow and glaciers down over the island to his heart’s content.
In the Arctic region a dark cloud called the[128] “loom of the water” overhangs where ever there is clear water.
The Arctic sea! The land of the midnight sun! What a fascinating subject! What an inexhaustible field for those three happy brothers, the poet, the painter and the scientist! The land of jötums, penguins96 and ice packs. The land where night kisses morning. The realm of bright-haired Aurora97 and sable-robed Niobe.
Returning along the self same route the mind never tires nor the eye wearies of the matchless scenery. Like a moving panorama, grand, austere98, majestic99, sublime100. Here reigns Vidar, the god of silence.
Magnificent fiords indent1 the coast. The dark mountains rise to a vast height, their snow crowned peaks standing out clear and sharp against the blue sky.
Glaciers like huge giants clasp the mountains in their frosty arms, while their tears course down the mountain’s weather-beaten cheek.
Here and there a fleecy white cloud envelopes the summit of a mountain. A silvery thread comes creeping out over the rocks, loses itself in the pine forest on the slopes, emerges and with a boundless101 sweep plunges102 into the ocean.
All this wild scenery from base to peak stands mirrored in the sea-green water of the fiord.
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indent
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| n.订单，委托采购，国外商品订货单，代购订单 | |
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icebergs
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| n.冰山，流冰( iceberg的名词复数 ) | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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rotary
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| adj.(运动等)旋转的；轮转的；转动的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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licenses
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| n.执照( license的名词复数 )v.批准，许可，颁发执照( license的第三人称单数 ) | |
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royalties
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| 特许权使用费 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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weavers
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| 织工，编织者( weaver的名词复数 ) | |
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mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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preys
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| v.掠食( prey的第三人称单数 )；掠食；折磨；（人）靠欺诈为生 | |
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salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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stranded
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| a.搁浅的，进退两难的 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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indented
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| adj.锯齿状的，高低不平的；缩进排版 | |
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plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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porpoises
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| n.鼠海豚( porpoise的名词复数 ) | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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mariner
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| n.水手号不载人航天探测器，海员，航海者 | |
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mariners
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| 海员，水手（mariner的复数形式） | |
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Neptune
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| n.海王星 | |
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lark
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| n.云雀，百灵鸟；n.嬉戏，玩笑；vi.嬉戏 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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glistening
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| adj.闪耀的，反光的v.湿物闪耀，闪亮( glisten的现在分词 ) | |
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panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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glades
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| n.林中空地( glade的名词复数 ) | |
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enchantment
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| n.迷惑，妖术，魅力 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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turnips
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| 芜青( turnip的名词复数 )； 芜菁块根； 芜菁甘蓝块根； 怀表 | |
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beets
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| 甜菜( beet的名词复数 )； 甜菜根； （因愤怒、难堪或觉得热而）脸红 | |
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blizzards
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| 暴风雪( blizzard的名词复数 )； 暴风雪似的一阵，大量（或大批） | |
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superstitious
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| adj.迷信的 | |
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killing
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| n.巨额利润；突然赚大钱，发大财 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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slays
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的第三人称单数 ) | |
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perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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prospected
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| vi.勘探（prospect的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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shaft
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| n.(工具的)柄，杆状物 | |
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shafts
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| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
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56
gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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vein
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| n.血管，静脉；叶脉，纹理；情绪；vt.使成脉络 | |
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craters
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| n.火山口( crater的名词复数 )；弹坑等 | |
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eruption
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| n.火山爆发；（战争等）爆发；（疾病等）发作 | |
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estuary
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| n.河口，江口 | |
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natal
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| adj.出生的，先天的 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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piers
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| n.水上平台( pier的名词复数 )；（常设有娱乐场所的）突堤；柱子；墙墩 | |
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isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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otter
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| n.水獭 | |
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triumphantly
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| ad.得意洋洋地；得胜地；成功地 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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68
banished
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| v.放逐，驱逐( banish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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69
lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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73
mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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74
walrus
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| n.海象 | |
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75
lucid
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| adj.明白易懂的，清晰的，头脑清楚的 | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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luminous
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| adj.发光的，发亮的；光明的；明白易懂的；有启发的 | |
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78
tremor
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| n.震动，颤动，战栗，兴奋，地震 | |
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79
glimmer
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| v.发出闪烁的微光；n.微光，微弱的闪光 | |
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80
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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81
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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82
awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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83
upheaval
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| n.胀起，(地壳)的隆起；剧变，动乱 | |
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84
mellow
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| adj.柔和的；熟透的；v.变柔和；(使)成熟 | |
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85
haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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86
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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87
fauna
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| n.(一个地区或时代的)所有动物，动物区系 | |
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88
tusks
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| n.（象等动物的）长牙( tusk的名词复数 )；獠牙；尖形物；尖头 | |
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89
hoary
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| adj.古老的；鬓发斑白的 | |
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90
plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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succor
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| n.援助，帮助；v.给予帮助 | |
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chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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93
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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hovered
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| 鸟( hover的过去式和过去分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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reigns
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| n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 )；君主统治时期；任期；当政期 | |
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penguins
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| n.企鹅( penguin的名词复数 ) | |
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aurora
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| n.极光 | |
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austere
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| adj.艰苦的；朴素的，朴实无华的；严峻的 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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100
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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101
boundless
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| adj.无限的；无边无际的；巨大的 | |
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102
plunges
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| n.跳进，投入vt.使投入，使插入，使陷入vi.投入，跳进，陷入v.颠簸( plunge的第三人称单数 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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