There are many points of interest in San[174] Francisco and not the least of these is China Town, which has a population of thirty thousand people. A Chinese school is a place of interest. The boys (girls are not sent to school in China Town) stand at long tables running across the room. The pupils all study aloud. Besides their books each pupil is provided with a small camel’s hair brush and a pot of ink with which he writes out his lessons in the characters of his native language. The paper used is very red, while the ink is very black. This is a priest’s school and these little almond-eyed Orientals in their quaint6 caps and gowns are all studying for the priesthood. They laugh and whisper too, when the teacher’s attention is engaged elsewhere, just like American children. One boy painted a Chinese character on another’s face, then they all laughed and the first boy wiped it angrily off. The teacher had not seen it, so no one was punished. The teacher, a fine looking man in the native dress of his country, with a few strokes of his brush painted for us on red paper an advertisement of his school. Teacher and pupils bowed a good morning as we departed.
At the Christian7 Mission the Chinese minister,[175] a man of much intelligence, greeted us cordially, asking where we were from. He knew where Chicago was and something about it. He was sorry that the services were over and asked us to come again next Sunday at ten o’clock.
The tea house, which is the club room, is the finest oriental club house in America. The beautiful tables and chairs are all inlaid with marble and pearl.
The Joss House, which is the temple, is magnificently adorned8 and decorated. A cup of tea, which of course evaporates, is kept setting in front of the god, but his worshipers believe he drinks it. Lamps and incense9 are kept burning all the time to keep the evil spirits away. The worshipers come and go at all hours. No regular services are held except at New Years and on feast days. Upon request, however, the priest will accompany an individual to the temple and conduct services for him.
The home of an aristocratic Chinaman is full of interest to an American. In the home in which we visited everything except the chairs came from China, and these looked oddly out hostess and her daughter. Our hostess was a large woman, but she proudly displayed her tiny feet, the mark of true aristocracy. She hobbled bravely about on these feet only four inches long and did the honors of her house.
When in exchange for the compliment of seeing these aristocratic feet I quite as proudly thrust out my American ones encased in No. 6 broad-soled mountain climbers, the dear lady bowed and smiled, but made no comment. The six-year-old daughter of the house was suffering the tortures of having her feet bound. When the Chinese become Christians10 they abandon this practice.
In an opium11 den12 an old smoker13 showed us how he smoked the fateful drug. He first took a large lump of opium on a long needle and holding it in the flame of a candle, burnt the poison out of it, then thrust it into the cup of his long pipe, the tiny opening of which he held near the lighted candle, sucking the blue smoke into his lungs and exhaling14 it through his nostrils15.
In the drug store the druggist was putting up a prescription16 for a sick Chinaman who was standing17 near. He took down four different bottles and took some roots out of each. Telling the man to make a tea of them he tied them up and handed them over the counter and received his pay. There were lizards18 and toads19 there also to be made into medicine.
In the jewelry20 store four goldsmiths were at work making rings, bracelets21 and earrings22, all by hand.
In the market all sorts of fish and birds were offered for sale. A big fat pig roasted whole looked tempting23 indeed. Beans, which had been kept damp until they had sprouted24, the sprouts25 an inch to two inches long were ready to be made into a tempting salad. There were baskets of green watermelons the size of an orange.
This being Sunday the streets were thronged26 with Chinese in native holiday dress, who sauntered leisurely27 along or gathered in groups chatting away in their native tongue. Their long queues tied with black ribbon hung down the back or were tucked into the side pocket of the tunic28. Here and there an Oriental who had imbibed29 some of the American energy hurried along dressed in the somber30 business suit of the American, his closely cropped hair, mustache and American shoes making a strange contrast to the groups on the corner.
There is no Sunday in the calendar of these almond-eyed Orientals,—the stores, markets and opium dens31 were all open.
Presently the weird32 music of the Salvation33 Army broke on our ears. Down the street came the Chinese Salvation band, dressed in American costume, the leader carrying the American flag.
When the first Chinese came to California the Indians were very curious about them. A dispute arose among them as to what country the strangers might hail from, and whether or not they were Indians.
The Indians, wise as the Puritans of old, would apply the water test. If the accused swam they were witches, if they drowned they were innocent.
One day a party of Indians met a party of Chinamen approaching a little stream.
The strangers approached the bridge and started across. The Indians too filed across and meeting the Chinamen in mid-stream pushed two of them into the angry, spuming current below. The test was conclusive34. They could not swim. They were not Indians.
In the fire department are exhibited two queer old engines. One was purchased in New York in 1849 and brought around the Horn. The other is a hand engine a little more modern in make. These engines are carefully guarded and never taken out except on rare occasions.
Down toward the wharf35 there stands a quaint old building, the material for which was brought around Cape36 Horn in 1850. This was San Francisco’s first hotel.
In the wild days of the early history of this little adobe37 city, nestled among the dunes38 and sand hills, Mount Diablo looked down on weird scenes on the plaza39 in front of this old hotel. Here the famous vigilance committee meted40 out justice to rogue41 and outlaw42 alike.
In the early history of California the eighth day of July, 1846, stands out conspicuously43. On that day the Brooklyn dropped her anchor off the island of Yerba Buena, the “good herb,” and flung the Stars and Stripes to the breeze. At noon Captain Montgomery unfurled the American flag on the plaza.
In that good ship came a party of pseudo Mormons, under the leadership of “Bishop44” Brannan, the valiant45 leader of the Vigilance Society. This colony of Latter Day saints[180] brought stout46 hearts, keen wits, strong arms, pluck, plenty of money and a printing press. Later they quarreled with their bishop and went to law with him and thus gave up their scheme of Mormon colonization47 and made sport of Brigham Young himself in their tents on the beach.
But they gave to San Francisco her first newspaper pledged to eschew48 all sectarian dogmas; her first prayer meeting and her first trial by jury. A wonderfully progressive people, those Mormons of the sand dunes.
Washington Bartlett, the first alcalde of Yerba Buena, changed the name to San Francisco.
The name of John C. Fremont stands for California as does that of Dr. Marcus Whitman for Oregon.
We called on the astrologer. When our horoscopes were cast and our future told us, we bade adieu to China Town.
In the center of the park stands the Hall of Art, a handsome building of Egyptian architecture. From the display in the relic50 department[181] one easily reads the history of early days in California.
In the department of statuary the loveliest figure was one in the beautiful carrara marble of Merope who was cast out of heaven because she fell in love with a mortal.
A plaster cast of the head of David after the colossal51 statue by Michael Angelo set in place in Florence in 1504, attracted much attention.
Michael Angelo had his troubles like other mortals. When his David was placed in position the mayor of Florence objected to the nose of the statue, saying it was too large. Angelo, perceiving that his critic’s position gave him a poor light on the figure, took a handful of marble dust, a hammer and a chisel52 and climbing to the head of the statue gave the nose a few taps, at the same time letting fall the dust. The mayor without changing position declared the nose perfect.
The Second Oregon had come home: Early in the morning the commanders were instructed to get their men ready to march to the barracks. Ten minutes later the regiment53 was on the wharf, the men wearing the blue shirts, brown trousers and leggins which they wore when[182] charging through the jungles and over the rice fields in the Philippines. The mascot54 detachment was not so easily landed.
“Here, Walker, take this monkey,” shouted a corporal.
“Grab that goat quick, he is going overboard.”
“Lend me a hand here, you privates; let’s get this menagerie ashore,” commanded the officer of the day.
Order reigned55 about two seconds when “Monkey overboard” turned order into chaos56. Twenty men rushed to the edge of the wharf and strenuous57 efforts were made to save the life of the little brown fellow who had toppled off the gang plank58. Ropes were carried from every corner of the wharf, but the efforts of the men were unavailing and the monkey lost his life. The other monkeys, the parrots, the dogs and the goat were safely landed. The goat chews tobacco and eats it too.
The Oregon band struck up “Home Sweet Home” in quick time and the march to the Presidio began.
For an hour or more a man near me had been talking in a pessimistic way about the war. He said this Philippine scuffle didn’t amount to[183] much anyway. What did we want with their old islands, anyhow? We ought to return them. It was a violation59 of the constitution to keep them.
Ten minutes later he was saying, “I can’t stand it,” as platoon after platoon went by with decimated ranks. One platoon had left nearly every man in the Philippines.
There were others who “couldn’t stand it.” “Home Sweet Home” sounded like a mockery. Up the street trudged60 these boys in blue, travel stained and weary, bearing the flag with holes in it, holes made by the death-winged bullets of the Filipinos. How gaunt and sick they looked. War had not been play with them. Not many cheers were heard. There were more “God bless you boys” than “Hurrahs.”
Other bands may play better, other bands may play louder, but none ever played more effectively than the Oregon.
Three big flags flung their folds to the ocean breeze as the regiment marched up the street. One of them was a dazzle of blue and gold and one bright and new, but one was the real Old Glory, torn by shot and shell, raveled and frayed61 by the Philippine winds. It was the[184] battle stained, tattered62 emblem63 of our country’s honor that received the heartiest64 cheers and warmest welcome. This was the flag that brought the mist before the eyes and brought to the mind Decatur’s noble toast. “Our country. In her intercourse65 with foreign countries may she always be right; but right or wrong, our country.”
On stretchers borne by the ambulance corps66 came the sick and wounded. A great contrast, these war-worn soldiers, to the spick and span Sixth Cavalry67 which escorted them.
Right royally did the Queen of the Golden Gate welcome home Oregon’s noble sons.
Passing the Examiner building nearly a million firecrackers which decorated the building, hanging in great loops and festoons, were set off. In the midst of this noise some one threw out a big bouquet68 of American Beauty roses. A soldier caught them and sniffed69 their fragrance70. “They’re American Beauties, boys,” he said and passed them on. Up and down the line went those roses, each man burying his face in them for a moment, then passing them on to his brother. When they had passed the rear line they were handed to the next platoon, and so they went on down that battle-scarred line.
The little Filipino boy, Manuel Robels, who accompanied the boys home, caught nearly every eye as he trudged along, a sawed-off Mauser rifle over one shoulder and an American flag over the other. Flowers were showered on him too.
Out at Van Ness street General Shafter sat on horseback with his staff, to review the troops.
Just beyond the place of review a company of wee tots with military hats and lath guns stood at the edge of the side-walk and presented arms. All that gallant71 regiment, from the colonel to the little Filipino boy, returned the salute72 of those patriotic73 tots.
Thus the noble Second regiment of the Oregon Volunteers marched out to the Presidio and to Fame’s eternal camping ground.
The Presidio, now the United States barracks, was established by the Spaniards in 1776. Little dreamed they that out of this camp would come one hundred years later a conquering host.
The camp is delightfully74 located on the bay[186] north of the city. The grounds include a thousand acres. The officers’ quarters are neat, cosy75 cottages. The long porches and verandas76 of the barracks are covered with vines and roses. Rows upon rows of flowers such as only grow in this moist climate decorate the walks on either side.
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1
flora
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| n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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laurels
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| n.桂冠，荣誉 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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agility
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| n.敏捷，活泼 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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incense
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| v.激怒；n.香，焚香时的烟，香气 | |
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Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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opium
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| n.鸦片；adj.鸦片的 | |
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den
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| n.兽穴；秘密地方；安静的小房间，私室 | |
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smoker
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| n.吸烟者，吸烟车厢，吸烟室 | |
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exhaling
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| v.呼出，发散出( exhale的现在分词 )；吐出（肺中的空气、烟等），呼气 | |
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nostrils
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| 鼻孔( nostril的名词复数 ) | |
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prescription
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| n.处方，开药；指示，规定 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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lizards
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| n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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toads
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| n.蟾蜍，癞蛤蟆( toad的名词复数 ) | |
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jewelry
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| n.（jewllery）（总称）珠宝 | |
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bracelets
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| n.手镯，臂镯( bracelet的名词复数 ) | |
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earrings
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| n.耳环( earring的名词复数 )；耳坠子 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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sprouted
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| v.发芽( sprout的过去式和过去分词 )；抽芽；出现；（使）涌现出 | |
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sprouts
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| n.新芽，嫩枝( sprout的名词复数 )v.发芽( sprout的第三人称单数 )；抽芽；出现；（使）涌现出 | |
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thronged
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| v.成群，挤满( throng的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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tunic
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| n.束腰外衣 | |
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imbibed
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| v.吸收( imbibe的过去式和过去分词 )；喝；吸取；吸气 | |
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somber
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| adj.昏暗的，阴天的，阴森的，忧郁的 | |
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dens
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| n.牙齿，齿状部分；兽窝( den的名词复数 )；窝点；休息室；书斋 | |
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weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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salvation
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| n.（尤指基督）救世，超度，拯救，解困 | |
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conclusive
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| adj.最后的，结论的；确凿的，消除怀疑的 | |
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wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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adobe
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| n.泥砖，土坯，美国Adobe公司 | |
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dunes
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| 沙丘( dune的名词复数 ) | |
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plaza
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| n.广场，市场 | |
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meted
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| v.（对某人）施以，给予（处罚等）( mete的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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rogue
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| n.流氓；v.游手好闲 | |
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outlaw
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| n.歹徒，亡命之徒；vt.宣布…为不合法 | |
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conspicuously
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| ad.明显地，惹人注目地 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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valiant
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| adj.勇敢的，英勇的；n.勇士，勇敢的人 | |
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colonization
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| 殖民地的开拓，殖民，殖民地化； 移殖 | |
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eschew
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| v.避开，戒绝 | |
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bower
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| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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chisel
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| n.凿子；v.用凿子刻，雕，凿 | |
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regiment
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| n.团，多数，管理；v.组织，编成团，统制 | |
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mascot
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| n.福神，吉祥的东西 | |
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55
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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violation
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| n.违反(行为)，违背(行为)，侵犯 | |
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trudged
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| vt.& vi.跋涉，吃力地走（trudge的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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frayed
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| adj.磨损的v.（使布、绳等）磨损，磨破( fray的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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tattered
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| adj.破旧的，衣衫破的 | |
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emblem
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| n.象征，标志；徽章 | |
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heartiest
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| 亲切的( hearty的最高级 )； 热诚的； 健壮的； 精神饱满的 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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corps
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| n.(通信等兵种的)部队；(同类作的)一组 | |
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cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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bouquet
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| n.花束，酒香 | |
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sniffed
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| v.以鼻吸气，嗅，闻( sniff的过去式和过去分词 )；抽鼻子（尤指哭泣、患感冒等时出声地用鼻子吸气）；抱怨，不以为然地说 | |
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fragrance
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| n.芬芳，香味，香气 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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salute
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| vi.行礼，致意，问候，放礼炮；vt.向…致意，迎接，赞扬；n.招呼，敬礼，礼炮 | |
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patriotic
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| adj.爱国的，有爱国心的 | |
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delightfully
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| 大喜，欣然 | |
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cosy
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| adj.温暖而舒适的，安逸的 | |
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verandas
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| 阳台，走廊( veranda的名词复数 ) | |
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