This wonderful valley, this marvelous gorge2, “touched by a light that hath no name, a glory never sung,” is a puzzle to geologists4. It is a granite5-walled chasm6 in the very heart of the mountains. The solid rock walls have split in half, one-half dropping out of sight, leaving only this beautiful valley to tell the tale.
Down the dark, frowning walls, which rise sheer from three to five thousand feet, plunge7 numerous waterfalls which leap two thousand feet at a bound. Through the valley flows the Merced river. Its water, clear as crystal, is full of that most delicious of all fish, mountain trout8. A more pellucid9 stream does not flow on this continent. Up in the mountain the Merced river is a wild, roaring torrent10, but through the valley it flows placidly12 over its white pebble13 bed, bathing the brown roots of the trees that fringe its banks. The trout float lazily along, leaping up to catch the insects that fly over the water, or sleeping in quiet pools and shady nooks along the bank. Here the cook drops his line out of the kitchen window and hooks trout for our breakfast.
The air is fragrant14 with the odor of many blossoms. The murmur15 of YoSemite falls lulls16 one to sleep as it goes leaping down five thousand feet over the granite wall to the pool below, clashing with spray the flowers that bloom on its banks.
YoSemite is truly a valley with little suggestion of the cañon about it. The Half Dome17 towering high above almost conceals18 the trench19 of the river, and the gorge of Tenaya creek20. Several thousand broad acres spread out in a level tract21 on its long narrow bottom.
El Capitan is the monarch22 of the world of rocks. A solid mass of granite, towering skyward three-fifths of a mile, barren except for one lone24 tree, an alligator25 pine, one hundred and twenty-seven feet high, growing on a narrow ledge26, in a niche27 a thousand feet above its base. Its rugged28 face, one and one-half miles across, kissed to a soft creamy whiteness by the suns of summer and the snows of winter. That is El Capitan, the wonder of the world. The Indians call it Tutockahnulah, in honor of their greatest chief.
Scarred and hoary29, the Three Brothers stand like severe hierophants, looking down into this mysterious vale.
That marvel1 of lakes, Mirror lake, called by the Indians Sleeping Water, adds beauty to this wonderful valley, so placid11, so clear the water that the rocky wall and every tree and shrub31 on its banks lie on the bosom32 of the water as if reflected in a mirror.
“Aloft on sky and mountain wall are God’s great pictures hung.”
The legend of the lovely falls called Bridal Veil runs in this wise:
Centuries ago there lived in this valley one Tutockahnulah and his tribe. One day while out hunting, he met the spirit of the valley, Tisayac. From that moment he knew no peace. He neglected his people and spent his time in dreaming of lovely Tisayac. She was fair, her skin was white and the sun had kissed her hair to a golden brown. Her eyes reflected heaven’s own blue. Her silvery speech like a bird’s song led him to her, but when he opened his eyes she vanished into the clouds.
The beautiful YoSemite valley being neglected by Tutockahnulah, became a desert and a waste. When Tisayac returned she wept at the sight of her beloved valley. On the dome of a mighty33 rock she knelt and prayed the Good Manitou to restore the valley. In answer to her prayer the Great Spirit spread the floor of the valley with green and smiting34 the mountains broke a channel for the melting ice and snow. The waters went leaping down and formed a lake. The birds again sang and the flowers bloomed. The people returned and gave the name Tisayac to the great rock where she had knelt.
When the chief came home and learned that Tisayac had returned to the valley his love grew stronger day by day. One morning he climbed to the crest35 of a rock that towers three thousand feet above the valley and carved his likeness36 on it that his memory might live forever among his people. There is to this day a face on this rock, but whether carved there by the hand of man or by nature in some of her wild moods, remains37 a mystery.
Resting at the foot of the Bridal Veil Falls, one evening Tutockahnulah saw a rainbow arching around the form of Tisayac. She beckoned38 him to follow her. With a wild cry he sprang into the water and disappeared with Tisayac. Two rainbows now instead of one tremble over the falling water.
At the upper end of the valley stands a giant monolith two hundred feet in height, called by the Indians, Hummoo, the Lost Arrow.
Many thousands of snows ago before the foot of white man had trod these romantic wilds there dwelt in this valley the Ahwahnes, the fairest of whose daughters was Teeheeneh. Her hair, black as the raven’s wing, unlike that of her sisters, fell in ripples39 below her slender[198] waist. Her sun-kissed cheeks and teeth like pearls added beauty to a form graceful40 as that of a young gazelle.
Kossookah, the bravest and handsomest warrior41 of his tribe, came a wooing the beautiful princess, wooed and won her.
The wild torrents44 sang of the love of Kossookah, the brave, for Teeneeneh, the beautiful. The river murmured it; the lonely mountains echoed the refrain; the very leaves of the trees whispered it; the plumy children of the air gossiped about it, while each sun of the starry45 sky repeated the story.
Time sped on golden wings, the mountains took on autumn tints46, winter was approaching. Every member of the tribe lent a hand to assist in building a wigwam for the fair princess and her knight47.
The nuptials48 were to be celebrated49 with many ceremonies and a great feast. Teeheeneh assisted by her companions would grind the acorns50 into flour for the wedding cakes and gather nuts, herbs and autumn leaves with which to garnish51 and decorate the tables; while[199] Kossookah with the chosen hunters of his tribe would scale the cliffs or climb the walls of the cañon to the mountain fastness in search of game.
The primitive52 home is completed. Kossookah and his braves depart. At set of sun he will repair to the head of the YoSemite falls and report the success of the hunt to Teeheeneh who would climb the rocks to the foot of the falls to receive it.
The messenger was to be an arrow to which Kossookah would attach feathers of the grouse53. From his strong bow he would speed it far out that Teeheeneh might see it, watch for its falling, recover it and read the message.
The day was propitious54. Seldom did an arrow miss its mark. Evening came and the hunters had more game than they could carry down in one trip.
Long ago in another clime Plautus said, “whom the gods love die young.”
Kossookah, proud of his success, repaired to the edge of the cliff beyond the falls, prepared the arrow, set it against the string of buffalo55 hide, stepped forward, when the cliff began to tremble and went down, carrying the brave Kossookah with it.
Long and lovingly did Teeheeneh wait for the signal. Night wrapped the mountains in gloom, but still Teeheeneh waited and wondered. Could Kossookah be dead? Had the chase led him so far away that he could not return in time to keep his word to Teeheeneh? He might even now be coming down the Indian cañon.
This new thought lent hope, and hope wings to the flying feet of Teeheeneh. From rock to rock, from ledge to ledge she sped with tireless feet, escaping many perils56 she reached the foot of the cliff.
Finding no trace of Kossookah she paced the sands all the long weary night, hoping against hope that every hour would bring some tidings of her beloved.
The pain at her heart increased with the hours, as she sang in the low soft voice of her race a passionate57 love song. The gray dawn found her still pacing the sands.
Now, like a deer she springs over the rocks and up the steep ascent58 to the spot from whence the signal arrow was to wing its way to her feet.
Ah, there were tracks in the sand, his tracks, but her call was answered only by the echo of[201] her own sad voice. A new fracture marked a recent cleavage in the rocks. Could it be, Oh, Great Spirit could it be that her beloved had gone down with the rocks and perished. Her heart was almost stilled with agonizing59 fear. She faltered60 a moment only. Gathering61 courage she leaned over the edge of the cliff. There, stilled in death, lay the form of Kossookah, in a hollow at the base of the monolith.
The shock had cleared her mind. Hastily and with steady hands now she builds a signal fire on the rocky cliff. The fire by its intensity62 interpreted in the light of Indian signal fires, calls for aid in distress63. Slowly the hours drag by. At last help arrives. Young saplings of tamarack are lashed64 together, end to end, with thongs65 of deer skin. When all is ready Teeheeneh springs forward and begs that no hands save hers shall touch her beloved dead. Slowly strong hands lower her to the side of the prostrate66 form of Kossookah.
Kissing the pale lips of the dead warrior Teeheeneh unbinds the deer thongs from about her own body. Silently and deftly67 she winds them about the prostrate form of Kossookah. At a signal from Teeheeneh the lifeless body is drawn68 up. Again the improvised69 rope is[202] lowered. Teeheeneh nervously70 clutches the pole, puts her foot in the rawhide71 loop and waves her hand as a signal to be drawn up.
Long and silently she gazes into the once love lit eyes of her dead hero. Her slight body sways and trembles like a reed swept by the wintry wind. Still silent, she sinks quivering on the bosom of her beloved. Gently they raise her, but her heart had broken and her soul taken its flight.
The fateful arrow was never found. The Indians say that it was spirited away by Teeheeneh and Kossookah and kept by them as a memento72 of their plighted73 troth and the close of their life on earth.
On gossamer74 floats, their souls were carried, by unseen hands over the mountains to the Elysian Plains beyond, where there are no pitfalls75 and no broken hearts.
Hummoo, the Lost Arrow, still stands, a monument to the brave Kossookah.
See, “In The Heart of the Sierras,” by J. M. Hutchings. Mr. Hutchings lived twenty-five years in the YoSemite Valley and knows this, the most beautiful, wild, and romantic spot on the American Continent, in all its varying moods of summer calm and wintry storm, and writes of it with a loving and sympathetic touch.
Of all the beautiful places in the world for a schoolhouse, surely “The Valley” is the most beautiful. One rarely hears YoSemite on the coast. It is always with a lingering caress76 in the voice, “The Valley.” A dainty little white schoolhouse stands in a grove77 on the border of a glade78. Here school is in session six months of every summer. The valley is only seven miles long and one and a half miles in width at its widest point.
There are usually only five or six children of school age in the valley, but in the spring and summer people come into the valley to spend the summer. Many camp while others live at the hotel and in cottages. In many instances their children have left their home school before its close, and in order to make their grades for the ensuing year, attend “The Valley School.”
Here the student of botany may find dainty asters, tiny wild peas, larkspur, monkey flowers, great ferns, the leaves two or three feet long; wild poppies, delicate sunflowers, purple gilias and broad faced primroses79. Fiery80 castillèjas lend color to gray rocks and shady nooks.
Stately pines, silver firs and graceful tamaracks[204] stand massy, tall and dark, make a landscape Mercury himself might pause to behold81, no matter how urgent his errand.
The Manzanita trees are now loaded with fruit. Manzanita is Spanish for little apple. The fruit of the tree is a perfect apple about the size of a gooseberry. Leather wood, a strange shrub naked as to leaves but abloom with bright yellow blossoms grows up in the mountains.
For the student of zoology82 there are the bears which have their dens83 in the rocks a short distance from the school. Wild deer and lion roam the mountains, while trout disport84 themselves in the Merced river near by.
The student of astronomy may see the sun rise five times every morning, and the White Fire Maiden85, by mortals called the moon, lights up YoSemite falls and the north wall of the valley long before she appears in the blue sea above.
The student in trigonometry will easily find a summer’s work, the geologist3 a life-time study, while the anthropologist86 will be interested in the few Indians who inhabit the valley.
One of the brightest pupils in the primary class is a little Indian girl. This daughter of the red man reads well and is very proud of her accomplishment88. She learned the multiplication89 table before the other members of her class, but does not apply it so readily.
“Tempus Fugit,” we bid farewell to YoSemite, lovely vale, and take the trail over the mountains. The hour was morning’s prime.
Up we go three thousand feet, mules91, guides and tourists, over a narrow trail that runs along the rocky ledge of the gorge. The purple atmosphere hangs like a veil over the wild cañon down which sweeps the Merced river, dashing and sparkling over rocks, tumbling over precipices92 or placidly flowing over its smooth rock bed.
Far above a red flame swept and we caught the odor of Calypso’s fire of cedar93 wood. The rising smoke mingled94 with the blue haze95 above, while the fire swept on, leaving only the blackened, charred96 remains of the once green forest to tell the tale.
Naiads danced in the sunny water and once methought I heard the soft, low strains of a flute97 played by a faun in the cool shadows of the trees which overhang the river’s brink98.
Not a faun did we see, however, but we met a fool, forsooth, a motley, merry fool. This fool had a silken scarf draped about his foolish head to ward23 off the warm glances of Old Sol as he peered down the gorge to see what the fool was about. He tripped lightly along, did this merry fool, slipping past the sturdy little mules and their riders on the trail so narrow that one foot of the rider hung over the gorge below, so narrow in many places that one misstep of the faithful little beast meant death to himself and his rider. Past the forty tourists went this untiring fool, frightening the animals and alarming their riders with his strange headdress.
Where were the guides? Right there saying things about the fool, quieting the animals and calming the fears of their riders.
When this remarkably99 agile100 fool had reached the head of the caravan101, down he would drop in the shade of a tree, his feet dangling102 in the dust of the trail, his Turkish headdress fluttering in the breeze, again causing the weary climbers to pause. Not every animal paused to look at the fool, the older ones were wiser.
The blue sky, the odor of the pines and the falling, gurgling, murmuring water lent an[207] enchantment103 to the air, which made us forget the fool, but for a moment only. Here he came again. Untiringly he followed us to the summit of the mountains, eight thousand feet above the sea, where the soft ambient soothes104 like a benediction105, and the soul uplifts in prayer.
As these high altitudes make many people ill we were advised to carry with us a bit of the joyful106. Arrived at the summit a dainty flask107 slipped from the folds of a lady’s gown and fell to the earth with a thud. One of the guides picked it up and gravely presented it to the owner with the remark, “Madam, you have lost something valuable.”
As we stood looking down through the blue mist into the YoSemite below us—a landscape that would have delighted the heart and eye of a Homer—a quaint108 old lady who had braved the trail that she might view the valley from glacial point, exclaimed:
“It’s lovely, ain’t it? Heaven don’t need to be no purtier and I don’t reckon it is, do you? Purty name, too, but I never kin30 remember whether it’s Yo-se-mite or Yu-summit.”
A personally conducted party arrived just ahead of us. Mr. Personally, as we dubbed109 the conductor, was a gentleman, so he informed us, of many qualities. His voice was loud and commanding, he was exceedingly voluble, and from the manner in which he hurried his party about I should say that he was a man of much energy.
He came flying into the ladies’ private boudoir regardless of the confusion of shirt waists, ties, collars and riding habits that were flying through the air, commanding the ladies of his party to hasten to the dining-room for luncheon110.
That repast served, Mr. Personally Conductor ordered up the stages which were in waiting to take us down the mountains on the other side. After ordering everyone else to stand back he ordered his party to “climb in,” which they meekly111 did.
We sat under a clump112 of silver firs thoroughly113 enjoying the scene and calm in the consciousness that as the transportation company had carried us to the top of the mountains it was in duty bound to carry us down, either by stage coach, mule90 back or by rope and tackle, over the rocky ledge and drop us three thousand feet to the valley below.
Two coaches were filled with “personally conducted” when the third drove up to the veranda114. Mr. Personally not being in sight the driver requested us to take seats in the coach, as it was growing late and time we were off.
A brilliant man of our party, a New York lawyer, had just taken a seat by the driver, when that remarkable115 conductor appeared and sprang into the seat between them, pushing at Mr. Lawyer and calling lustily for Dr. Bluker, who was a member of his party. The doctor responded and grabbed our lawyer friend by the leg, attempting to pull him down.
Mr. Lawyer turned to Mr. Personally, saying, “I don’t know who you are sir, but—”
“I am a gentleman, sir,” hastily replied the conductor.
“Ah,” exclaimed the lawyer at this astonishing bit of news, “I am always glad to meet a gentleman,” and at his wife’s solicitation116 bowed gracefully117, relinquishing118 the seat to Dr. Bluker, a college president who for the moment might have been taken for Sitting Bull, chief of the Sioux.
Ah, good people,
“A chiel’s amang you taking notes,
And, faith, he’ll prent it.”
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收听单词发音
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1
marvel
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| vi.(at)惊叹vt.感到惊异；n.令人惊异的事 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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geologist
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| n.地质学家 | |
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geologists
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| 地质学家，地质学者( geologist的名词复数 ) | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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pellucid
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| adj.透明的，简单的 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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placid
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| adj.安静的，平和的 | |
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placidly
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| adv.平稳地，平静地 | |
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pebble
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| n.卵石，小圆石 | |
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fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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murmur
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| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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lulls
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| n.间歇期（lull的复数形式）vt.使镇静，使安静（lull的第三人称单数形式） | |
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dome
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| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
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conceals
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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trench
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| n./v.(挖)沟，(挖)战壕 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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ledge
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| n.壁架，架状突出物；岩架，岩礁 | |
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niche
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| n.壁龛；合适的职务(环境、位置等) | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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hoary
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| adj.古老的；鬓发斑白的 | |
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kin
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| n.家族，亲属，血缘关系；adj.亲属关系的，同类的 | |
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shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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smiting
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| v.猛打，重击，打击( smite的现在分词 ) | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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likeness
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| n.相像，相似（之处） | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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beckoned
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| v.（用头或手的动作）示意，召唤( beckon的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ripples
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| 逐渐扩散的感觉( ripple的名词复数 ) | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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warrior
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| n.勇士，武士，斗士 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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rambled
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| （无目的地）漫游( ramble的过去式和过去分词 )； （喻）漫谈； 扯淡； 长篇大论 | |
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44
torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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45
starry
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| adj.星光照耀的, 闪亮的 | |
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46
tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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48
nuptials
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| n.婚礼；婚礼( nuptial的名词复数 ) | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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50
acorns
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| n.橡子，栎实( acorn的名词复数 ) | |
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51
garnish
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| n.装饰，添饰，配菜 | |
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52
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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53
grouse
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| n.松鸡；v.牢骚，诉苦 | |
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54
propitious
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| adj.吉利的；顺利的 | |
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55
buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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56
perils
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| 极大危险( peril的名词复数 )； 危险的事（或环境） | |
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57
passionate
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，激昂的，易动情的，易怒的，性情暴躁的 | |
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58
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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59
agonizing
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| adj.痛苦难忍的；使人苦恼的v.使极度痛苦；折磨(agonize的ing形式) | |
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60
faltered
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| （嗓音）颤抖( falter的过去式和过去分词 )； 支吾其词； 蹒跚； 摇晃 | |
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61
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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62
intensity
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| n.强烈，剧烈；强度；烈度 | |
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63
distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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64
lashed
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| adj.具睫毛的v.鞭打( lash的过去式和过去分词 )；煽动；紧系；怒斥 | |
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65
thongs
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| 的东西 | |
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66
prostrate
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| v.拜倒，平卧，衰竭；adj.拜倒的，平卧的，衰竭的 | |
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67
deftly
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| adv.灵巧地，熟练地，敏捷地 | |
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68
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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69
improvised
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| a.即席而作的,即兴的 | |
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70
nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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71
rawhide
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| n.生牛皮 | |
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72
memento
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| n.纪念品，令人回忆的东西 | |
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73
plighted
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| vt.保证，约定（plight的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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74
gossamer
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| n.薄纱，游丝 | |
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75
pitfalls
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| （捕猎野兽用的）陷阱( pitfall的名词复数 )； 意想不到的困难，易犯的错误 | |
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76
caress
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| vt./n.爱抚，抚摸 | |
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77
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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78
glade
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| n.林间空地，一片表面有草的沼泽低地 | |
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79
primroses
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| n.报春花( primrose的名词复数 )；淡黄色；追求享乐（招至恶果） | |
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80
fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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81
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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82
zoology
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| n.动物学，生态 | |
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83
dens
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| n.牙齿，齿状部分；兽窝( den的名词复数 )；窝点；休息室；书斋 | |
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84
disport
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| v.嬉戏，玩 | |
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85
maiden
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| n.少女，处女；adj.未婚的，纯洁的，无经验的 | |
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86
anthropologist
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| n.人类学家，人类学者 | |
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87
supremacy
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| n.至上；至高权力 | |
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88
accomplishment
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| n.完成，成就，（pl.）造诣，技能 | |
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89
multiplication
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| n.增加，增多，倍增；增殖，繁殖；乘法 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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91
mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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92
precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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93
cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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94
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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96
charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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97
flute
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| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
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98
brink
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| n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘，边沿 | |
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99
remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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100
agile
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| adj.敏捷的，灵活的 | |
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101
caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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102
dangling
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| 悬吊着( dangle的现在分词 )； 摆动不定； 用某事物诱惑…； 吊胃口 | |
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103
enchantment
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| n.迷惑，妖术，魅力 | |
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104
soothes
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| v.安慰( soothe的第三人称单数 )；抚慰；使舒服；减轻痛苦 | |
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105
benediction
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| n.祝福；恩赐 | |
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106
joyful
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| adj.欢乐的，令人欢欣的 | |
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107
flask
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| n.瓶，火药筒，砂箱 | |
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108
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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109
dubbed
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| v.给…起绰号( dub的过去式和过去分词 )；把…称为；配音；复制 | |
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110
luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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111
meekly
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| adv.温顺地，逆来顺受地 | |
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112
clump
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| n.树丛，草丛；vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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113
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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114
veranda
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| n.走廊；阳台 | |
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115
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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116
solicitation
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| n.诱惑；揽货；恳切地要求；游说 | |
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117
gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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118
relinquishing
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| 交出，让给( relinquish的现在分词 )； 放弃 | |
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