In the business section of the town trees are few. The chief business streets are Congress and Market. Market Street is the stronghold of the dry-goods shops. There are seasons, I suppose, when these shops are crowded, but I have never happened to be in Portsmouth at the time. I seldom pass through the narrow cobble-paved street without wondering where the customers are that must keep all these flourishing little establishments going. Congress Street—a more elegant thoroughfare than Market—is the Nevski Prospekt of Portsmouth. Among the prominent buildings is the Athenaeum, containing a reading-room and library. From the high roof of this building the stroller will do well to take a glance at the surrounding country. He will naturally turn seaward for the more picturesque19 aspects. If the day is clear, he will see the famous Isle20 of Shoals, lying nine miles away—Appledore, Smutty-Nose, Star Island, White Island, etc.; there are nine of them in all. On Appledore is Laighton’s Hotel, and near it the summer cottage of Celia Thaxter, the poet of the Isles21. On the northern end of Star Island is the quaint22 town of Gosport, with a tiny stone church perched like a sea-gull on its highest rock. A mile southwest form Star Island lies White Island, on which is a lighthouse. Mrs. Thaxter calls this the most picturesque of the group. Perilous23 neighbors, O mariner24! in any but the serenest25 weather, these wrinkled, scarred, are storm-smitten rocks, flanked by wicked sunken ledges26 that grow white at the lip with rage when the great winds blow!
How peaceful it all looks off there, on the smooth emerald sea! and how softly the waves seem to break on yonder point where the unfinished fort is! That is the ancient town of Newcastle, to reach which from Portsmouth you have to cross three bridges with the most enchanting27 scenery in New Hampshire lying on either hand. At Newcastle the poet Stedman has built for his summerings an enviable little stone chateau—a seashell into which I fancy the sirens creep to warm themselves during the winter months. So it is never without its singer.
Opposite Newcastle is Kittery Point, a romantic spot, where Sir William Pepperell, the first American baronet, once lived, and where his tomb now is, in his orchard28 across the road, a few hundred yards from the “goodly mansion” he built. The knight’s tomb and the old Pepperell House, which has been somewhat curtailed29 of it fair proportions, are the objects of frequent pilgrimages to Kittery Point.
From the elevation30 (the roof of the Athenaeun) the navy yard, the river with its bridges and islands, the clustered gables of Kittery and Newcastle, the illimitable ocean beyond make a picture worth climbing four or five flights of stairs to gaze upon. Glancing down on the town nestled in the foliage, it seems like a town dropped by chance in the midst of a forest. Among the prominent objects which lift themselves above the tree tops are the belfries of the various churches, the white façade of the custom house, and the mansard and chimneys of the Rockingham, the principal hotel. The pilgrim will be surprised to find in Portsmouth one of the most completely appointed hotels in the United States. The antiquarian may lament31 the demolition32 of the old Bell Tavern33, and think regretfully of the good cheer once furnished the wayfarer34 by Master Stavers at the sign of the Earl of Halifax, and by Master Stoodley at his inn on Daniel Street; but the ordinary traveler will thank his stars, and confess that his lines have fallen in pleasant places, when he finds himself among the frescoes35 of the Rockingham.
Obliquely36 opposite the doorstep of the Athenaeum—we are supposed to be on terra firma again—stands the Old North Church, a substantial wooden building, handsomely set on what is called The Parade, a large open space formed by the junction37 of Congress, Market, Daniel, and Pleasant streets. Here in days innocent of water-works stood the town pump, which on more than one occasion served as whipping-post.
The churches of Portsmouth are more remarkable38 for their number than their architecture. With the exception of the Stone Church they are constructed of wood or plain brick in the simplest style. St. John’s Church is the only one likely to attract the eye of a stranger. It is finely situated39 on the crest40 of Church Hill, overlooking the ever-beautiful river. The present edifice41 was built in 1808 on the site of what was known as Queen’s Chapel42, erected43 in 1732, and destroyed by fire December 24, 1806. The chapel was named in honor of Queen Caroline, who furnished the books for the altar and pulpit, the plate, and two solid mahogany chairs, which are still in use in St. John’s. Within the chancel rail is a curious font of porphyry, taken by Colonel John Tufton Mason at the capture of Senegal from the French in 1758, and presented to the Episcopal Society on 1761. The peculiarly sweet-toned bell which calls the parishioners of St. John’s together every Sabbath is, I believe, the same that formerly44 hung in the belfry of the old Queen’s Chapel. If so, the bell has a history of its own. It was brought from Louisburg at the time of the reduction of that place in 1745, and given to the church by the officers of the New Hampshire troops.
The Old South Meeting-House is not to be passed without mention. It is among the most aged45 survivals of pre-revolutionary days. Neither its architecture not its age, however, is its chief warrant for our notice. The absurd number of windows in this battered46 old structure is what strikes the passer-by. The church was erected by subscription47, and these closely set large windows are due to Henry Sherburne, one of the wealthiest citizens of the period, who agreed to pay for whatever glass was used. If the building could have been composed entirely48 of glass it would have been done by the thrifty49 parishioners.
Portsmouth is rich in graveyards—they seem to be a New England specialty—ancient and modern. Among the old burial-places the one attached to St. John’s Church is perhaps the most interesting. It has not been permitted to fall into ruin, like the old cemetery at the Point of Graves. When a headstone here topples over it is kindly50 lifted up and set on its pins again, and encouraged to do its duty. If it utterly51 refuses, and is not shamming52 decrepitude53, it has its face sponged, and is allowed to rest and sun itself against the wall of the church with a row of other exempts54. The trees are kept pruned55, the grass trimmed, and here and there is a rosebush drooping56 with a weight of pensive57 pale roses, as becomes a rosebush in a churchyard.
The place has about it an indescribable soothing58 atmosphere of respectability and comfort. Here rest the remains59 of the principal and loftiest in rank in their generation of the citizens of Portsmouth prior to the Revolution—stanch, royalty-loving governors, counselors60, and secretaries of the Providence61 of New Hampshire, all snugly62 gathered under the motherly wing of the Church of England. It is almost impossible to walk anywhere without stepping on a governor. You grow haughty63 in spirit after a while, and scorn to tread on anything less than one of His Majesty’s colonels or secretary under the Crown. Here are the tombs of the Atkinsons, the Jaffreys, the Sherburnes, the Sheafes, the Marshes64, the Mannings, the Gardners, and others of the quality. All around you underfoot are tumbled-in coffins65, with here and there a rusty66 sword atop, and faded escutcheons, and crumbling67 armorial devices. You are moving in the very best society.
This, however, is not the earliest cemetery in Portsmouth. An hour’s walk from the Episcopal yard will bring you to the spot, already mentioned, where the first house was built and the first grave made, at Odiorne’s Point. The exact site of the Manor68 is not known, but it is supposed to be a few rods north of an old well of still-flowing water, at which the Tomsons and the Hiltons and their comrades slaked69 their thirst more than two hundred and sixty years ago. Oriorne’s Point is owned by Mr. Eben L. Odiorne, a lineal descendant of the worthy70 who held the property in 1657. Not far from the old spring is the resting-place of the earliest pioneers.
“This first cemetery of the white man in New Hampshire,” writes Mr. Brewster, (1. Mr. Charles W. Brewster, for nearly fifty years the editor of the Portsmouth Journal, and the author of two volumes of local sketches71 to which the writer of these pages here acknowledges his indebtedness.) “occupies a space of perhaps one hundred feet by ninety, and is well walled in. The western side is now used as a burial-place for the family, but two thirds of it is filled with perhaps forty graves, indicated by rough head and foot stones. Who there rest no one now living knows. But the same care is taken of their quiet beds as if they were of the proprietor’s own family. In 1631 Mason sent over about eighty emigrants72 many of whom died in a few years, and here they were probably buried. Here too, doubtless, rest the remains of several of those whose names stand conspicuous73 in our early state records.”
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1 commodious | |
adj.宽敞的;使用方便的 | |
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2 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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3 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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4 pane | |
n.窗格玻璃,长方块 | |
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5 blighting | |
使凋萎( blight的现在分词 ); 使颓丧; 损害; 妨害 | |
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6 chestnuts | |
n.栗子( chestnut的名词复数 );栗色;栗树;栗色马 | |
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7 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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8 enchantment | |
n.迷惑,妖术,魅力 | |
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9 boughs | |
大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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10 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
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11 maples | |
槭树,枫树( maple的名词复数 ); 槭木 | |
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12 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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13 legacies | |
n.遗产( legacy的名词复数 );遗留之物;遗留问题;后遗症 | |
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14 expended | |
v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 );使用(钱等)做某事;用光;耗尽 | |
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15 ornamental | |
adj.装饰的;作装饰用的;n.装饰品;观赏植物 | |
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16 perpetuates | |
n.使永存,使人记住不忘( perpetuate的名词复数 );使永久化,使持久化,使持续 | |
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17 labor | |
n.劳动,努力,工作,劳工;分娩;vi.劳动,努力,苦干;vt.详细分析;麻烦 | |
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18 cemetery | |
n.坟墓,墓地,坟场 | |
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19 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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20 isle | |
n.小岛,岛 | |
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21 isles | |
岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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22 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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23 perilous | |
adj.危险的,冒险的 | |
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24 mariner | |
n.水手号不载人航天探测器,海员,航海者 | |
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25 serenest | |
serene(沉静的,宁静的,安宁的)的最高级形式 | |
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26 ledges | |
n.(墙壁,悬崖等)突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 );(平窄的)壁架;横档;(尤指)窗台 | |
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27 enchanting | |
a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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28 orchard | |
n.果园,果园里的全部果树,(美俚)棒球场 | |
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29 curtailed | |
v.截断,缩短( curtail的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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30 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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31 lament | |
n.悲叹,悔恨,恸哭;v.哀悼,悔恨,悲叹 | |
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32 demolition | |
n.破坏,毁坏,毁坏之遗迹 | |
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33 tavern | |
n.小旅馆,客栈;小酒店 | |
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34 wayfarer | |
n.旅人 | |
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35 frescoes | |
n.壁画( fresco的名词复数 );温壁画技法,湿壁画 | |
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36 obliquely | |
adv.斜; 倾斜; 间接; 不光明正大 | |
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37 junction | |
n.连接,接合;交叉点,接合处,枢纽站 | |
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38 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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39 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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40 crest | |
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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41 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
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42 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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43 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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44 formerly | |
adv.从前,以前 | |
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45 aged | |
adj.年老的,陈年的 | |
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46 battered | |
adj.磨损的;v.连续猛击;磨损 | |
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47 subscription | |
n.预订,预订费,亲笔签名,调配法,下标(处方) | |
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48 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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49 thrifty | |
adj.节俭的;兴旺的;健壮的 | |
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50 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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51 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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52 shamming | |
假装,冒充( sham的现在分词 ) | |
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53 decrepitude | |
n.衰老;破旧 | |
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54 exempts | |
使免除[豁免]( exempt的第三人称单数 ) | |
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55 pruned | |
v.修剪(树木等)( prune的过去式和过去分词 );精简某事物,除去某事物多余的部分 | |
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56 drooping | |
adj. 下垂的,无力的 动词droop的现在分词 | |
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57 pensive | |
a.沉思的,哀思的,忧沉的 | |
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58 soothing | |
adj.慰藉的;使人宽心的;镇静的 | |
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59 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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60 counselors | |
n.顾问( counselor的名词复数 );律师;(使馆等的)参赞;(协助学生解决问题的)指导老师 | |
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61 providence | |
n.深谋远虑,天道,天意;远见;节约;上帝 | |
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62 snugly | |
adv.紧贴地;贴身地;暖和舒适地;安适地 | |
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63 haughty | |
adj.傲慢的,高傲的 | |
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64 marshes | |
n.沼泽,湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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65 coffins | |
n.棺材( coffin的名词复数 );使某人早亡[死,完蛋,垮台等]之物 | |
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66 rusty | |
adj.生锈的;锈色的;荒废了的 | |
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67 crumbling | |
adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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68 manor | |
n.庄园,领地 | |
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69 slaked | |
v.满足( slake的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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70 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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71 sketches | |
n.草图( sketch的名词复数 );素描;速写;梗概 | |
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72 emigrants | |
n.(从本国移往他国的)移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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73 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
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