"To Mrs. Sterling, Knightsbridge, London.
"ARONA on the LAGO MAGGIORE, 8th Oct., 1838.
"MY DEAR MOTHER,—I bring down the story of my proceedings7 to the present time since the 29th of September. I think it must have been after that day that I was at a great breakfast at the elder Perdonnets', with whom I had declined to dine, not choosing to go out at night.... I was taken by my hostess to see several pretty pleasure-grounds and points of view in the neighborhood; and latterly Calvert was better, and able to go with us. He was in force again, and our passports were all settled so as to enable us to start on the morning of the 2d, after taking leave of our kind entertainer with thanks for her infinite kindness.
"We reached St. Maurice early that evening; having had the Dent8 du Midi close to us for several hours; glittering like the top of a silver teapot, far up in the sky. Our course lay along the Valley of the Rhone; which is considered one of the least beautiful parts of Switzerland, and perhaps for this reason pleased us, as we had not been prepared to expect much. We saw, before reaching the foot of the Alpine9 pass at Brieg, two rather celebrated10 Waterfalls; the one the Pissevache, which has no more beauty than any waterfall one hundred or two hundred feet high must necessarily have: the other, near Tourtemagne, is much more pleasing, having foliage11 round it, and being in a secluded12 dell. If you buy a Swiss Waterfall, choose this one.
"Our second day took us through Martigny to Sion, celebrated for its picturesque13 towers upon detached hills, for its strong Romanism and its population of cretins,—that is, maimed idiots having the goitre. It looked to us a more thriving place than we expected. They are building a great deal; among other things, a new Bishop's Palace and a new Nunnery,—to inhabit either of which ex officio I feel myself very unsuitable. From Sion we came to Brieg; a little village in a nook, close under an enormous mountain and glacier14, where it lies like a molehill, or something smaller, at the foot of a haystack. Here also we slept; and the next day our voiturier, who had brought us from Lausanne, started with us up the Simplon Pass; helped on by two extra horses.
"The beginning of the road was rather cheerful; having a good deal of green pasturage, and some mountain villages; but it soon becomes dreary15 and savage16 in aspect, and but for our bright sky and warm air, would have been truly dismal17. However, we gained gradually a distinct and near view of several large glaciers18; and reached at last the high and melancholy19 valleys of the Upper Alps; where even the pines become scanty20, and no sound is heard but the wheels of one's carriage, except when there happens to be a storm or an avalanche21, neither of which entertained us. There is, here and there, a small stream of water pouring from the snow; but this is rather a monotonous22 accompaniment to the general desolation than an interruption of it. The road itself is certainly very good, and impresses one with a strong notion of human power. But the common descriptions are much exaggerated; and many of what the Guide-Books call 'galleries' are merely parts of the road supported by a wall built against the rock, and have nothing like a roof above them. The 'stupendous bridges,' as they are called, might be packed, a dozen together, into one arch of London Bridge; and they are seldom even very striking from the depth below. The roadway is excellent, and kept in the best order. On the whole, I am very glad to have travelled the most famous road in Europe, and to have had delightful23 weather for doing so, as indeed we have had ever since we left Lausanne. The Italian descent is greatly more remarkable24 than the other side.
"We slept near the top, at the Village of Simplon, in a very fair and well-warmed inn, close to a mountain stream, which is one of the great ornaments25 of this side of the road. We have here passed into a region of granite26, from that of limestone27, and what is called gneiss. The valleys are sharper and closer,—like cracks in a hard and solid mass;—and there is much more of the startling contrast of light and shade, as well as more angular boldness of outline; to all which the more abundant waters add a fresh and vivacious28 interest. Looking back through one of these abysmal29 gorges30, one sees two torrents31 dashing together, the precipice32 and ridge6 on one side, pitch-black with shade; and that on the other all flaming gold; while behind rises, in a huge cone33, one of the glacier summits of the chain. The stream at one's feet rushes at a leap some two hundred feet down, and is bordered with pines and beeches34, struggling through a ruined world of clefts35 and boulders36. I never saw anything so much resembling some of the Circles described by Dante. From Simplon we made for Duomo d'Ossola; having broken out, as through the mouth of a mine, into green and fertile valleys full of vines and chestnuts37, and white villages,—in short, into sunshine and Italy.
点击收听单词发音
1 prophesied | |
v.预告,预言( prophesy的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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2 sterling | |
adj.英币的(纯粹的,货真价实的);n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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3 avowedly | |
adv.公然地 | |
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4 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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5 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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6 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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7 proceedings | |
n.进程,过程,议程;诉讼(程序);公报 | |
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8 dent | |
n.凹痕,凹坑;初步进展 | |
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9 alpine | |
adj.高山的;n.高山植物 | |
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10 celebrated | |
adj.有名的,声誉卓著的 | |
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11 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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12 secluded | |
adj.与世隔绝的;隐退的;偏僻的v.使隔开,使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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13 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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14 glacier | |
n.冰川,冰河 | |
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15 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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16 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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17 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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18 glaciers | |
冰河,冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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19 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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20 scanty | |
adj.缺乏的,仅有的,节省的,狭小的,不够的 | |
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21 avalanche | |
n.雪崩,大量涌来 | |
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22 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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23 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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24 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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25 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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26 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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27 limestone | |
n.石灰石 | |
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28 vivacious | |
adj.活泼的,快活的 | |
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29 abysmal | |
adj.无底的,深不可测的,极深的;糟透的,极坏的;完全的 | |
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30 gorges | |
n.山峡,峡谷( gorge的名词复数 );咽喉v.(用食物把自己)塞饱,填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 );作呕 | |
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31 torrents | |
n.倾注;奔流( torrent的名词复数 );急流;爆发;连续不断 | |
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32 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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33 cone | |
n.圆锥体,圆锥形东西,球果 | |
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34 beeches | |
n.山毛榉( beech的名词复数 );山毛榉木材 | |
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35 clefts | |
n.裂缝( cleft的名词复数 );裂口;cleave的过去式和过去分词;进退维谷 | |
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36 boulders | |
n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 );巨砾;(受水或天气侵蚀而成的)巨石;漂砾 | |
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37 chestnuts | |
n.栗子( chestnut的名词复数 );栗色;栗树;栗色马 | |
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