The loading of our vessel3 proceeded very slowly, which was not to be wondered at, since all the energies of the shipping32 people seemed to be absorbed by the demands of the big steamships33 that were incessantly34 carrying rice to Calcutta because of the famine. But, slow as it was, it gradually approached completion, and the important question began to occupy all our minds: Were we going to get any liberty or money? Since the night of the skipper's surprise-visit, we had only seen him once, and that was when he returned on shore the next morning. The officers were warily35 approached upon the subject, but they knew no more than we did of the skipper's movements or intentions. At last, after a prolonged council of war, it was decided36 to send him a letter, signed by one of the A.B.'s on behalf of the rest. But then the difficulty arose: who was to write the important document? Not one of the men was capable of doing so—in fact, I was the letter-writer in ordinary for all hands. So I was approached as to my willingness to do what was required. I readily consented, only stipulating38 that I should be held blameless in the event of trouble ensuing. "Oh, of course," said they all, "we wouldn't let you take the blame." Well, I wrote the letter, and, although I was no hand at composition, I remember that it was exceedingly terse39 and to the point. With a good deal of pride I read it to the assembled conclave40, and all agreed that it was a model of what such a letter ought to be. But when it came to signing the document, I was disgusted to find that each man was anxious that some other fellow should have the honour. All professed41 readiness to take the responsibility, but when it came to putting their names to paper they hung back. At last, to my secret amusement, the old Dutchman, Hansen, said, "Oh, all righd, put my name to id; I tondt care for te oldt man nodt a liddle pidt." It struck me at once that the old fellow had no idea of the vigour43 of the language used, but that was none of my affair. So "Hans Hansen" was appended to the letter; it was enclosed in an envelope, and sent per the "dubash" to the "British Burmah Bar," where the old man was living. In a perfect fever of excitement I awaited the result. It was not long delayed. Shortly after dinner the skipper came on board in a perfect fury, and, before he had got his foot over the rail, yelled for Hansen. The poor old Dutchman paddled aft, shaking like a feather-vane in a gale44 of wind, and, when he got to where the old man was standing10, he looked as if his legs would double up under him. Good heavens! how the skipper did rave45. Seeing who he had to deal with he just spread himself, so to speak, and, much to his satisfaction, succeeded in scaring Hansen nearly to death. Suddenly my name was called, and, in a moment, I recognized that I had been given away. Well, I had to face the music; so I determined to put the best face I could upon the matter, and, in any case, to show no cowardice46. I strolled quietly aft, and received the old sinner's broadside with a perfectly47 unmoved front. He threatened me with prison—almost hanging—for the unparalleled crime I had committed; but I smiled sweetly, and, as soon as I could get in a word, I told him he couldn't do anything to me at all. Then he changed his tactics, and tried to wheedle48 me into saying that the men had compelled me to write, and begged me to tell him whose composition it was. Having by this[320] time grown bolder, I told him that I was the author, and that I felt proud of it. This so enraged49 him that he ran at me foaming50 and screaming to me to get out of his cabin. But, even then, his prudence51 did not desert him, for he never ventured to strike me, and both the officers remained strictly52 neutral. And, after all, the desired end was attained53 for every one except myself, for the next day liberty was announced, with cash to the extent of twenty rupees each. But from this I was to be excluded. However, after the other fellows had gone, my fellow ordinary seaman54 and I were told by the mate that we might go too, if we chose, but that he had no money to give us. We had a couple of rupees between us, enough to get ourselves something to eat, so we gladly availed ourselves of his permission and were soon ashore.
From the first hour of our arrival I had looked with longing55 eyes upon the mighty56 mass of the Golden Pagoda57, and never ceased hoping that I might be able to see it near at hand; and now I determined to lose no time in realizing my desires. Bill wanted to go down town, and hunt up some of our shipmates for the purpose of borrowing a little from them; but I dissuaded58 him, and, after a bottle of beer each, and the purchase of a fistful of cigars for the equivalent of twopence, we trudged60 off. There was no mistaking the way, for the road was broad and the pagoda itself was our guide; but I have ever since rejoiced that I did not know how far it was, or I certainly should never have visited it. The fierce sun glared down upon the white dusty road so that it was like walking in an oven; gharries and ekkas rolled tantalizingly61 by, and our throats became like leather. But we persevered62, and after I am afraid to say how long, we came at last to the imposing63 avenue of colossal64 black marble monsters leading to the first plateau. Immensely broad flights of steps led up to an enormous platform, around which we roamed, bewildered by the wonderful array of uncouth65 monsters grouped everywhere. Then up more steps on to another plateau from whence sprang the central mass, a sort of pyramid without angles, and rising in broad steps of masonry66 which, flat at first, gradually sloped upward until they were lost in the glittering cone67 of the towering summit. Around the base of this vast structure were small temples like porticoes68 leading to the interior of the main building; but far as we could see, each of them was self-contained, and no entrance to the central edifice69 was visible. I made many inquiries70 whether that great pyramid was solid, or contained chambers of any sort; but the answers I got were so conflicting that I could come to no conclusion at all. The strangest feature of the whole wonderful place was the number of elaborately decorated bells of all sizes which hung about, some of them on the most flimsy erections. They emitted, when struck, tones of the most silvery sweetness, such as I have never heard from bells (except specimens71 from the same country) before or since. And presently we came upon one in a secluded72 corner that must be, I should think, one of the largest bells in the world, although I have never seen any mention of it in[322] books or articles where big bells are spoken of. It was hanging under a sort of conical shed, suspended from a gallows74 built of huge baulks of teak, but its lip was only about eighteen inches off the ground. It was covered with inscriptions—in Burmese, I suppose—but had no other enrichment. Curious to hear its tone, I struck it with a large deer-horn, of which there were many lying about; but there was no response. Harder and harder I struck, until at last Bill hove a massive fragment of stone against it with all his force; but still not a sound could be heard—no, not so much as an iron wall would have given back. Baffled in sampling its tone, we tried to measure it roughly, and found that with outstretched arms we could reach round it in four times. This would make its circumference75 about twenty feet. Then, lying flat on my back, I tried to measure its thickness of metal; but my arm was not long enough—it was much thicker than I could reach in from outside. Its height I should estimate at twelve feet; but that is very rough, since we had no pole. Altogether a grandfather of bells. Gilding76 was going on in all directions, the workmen perched upon flimsy bamboo scaffolding in all sorts of precarious77 positions; and I remember trying to calculate how much gold it must take to keep so great a place brilliant. I did not then know that the gold-leaf was one of the principal offerings made by worshippers, although, when we presently entered one of the temples, and witnessed the worship, the strangeness of the proceedings ought to have enlightened me. Yellow-garbed, close-shaven Phoongyees were squatting78 all over the pavement of the building, apparently79 absorbed in reverent80 adoration81 of the row of idols82 ranged along the inner end of the place. Yet, at the same time, more workmen were busily engaged in gilding the idols themselves—one, especially, was plastering the face of the central figure with it, until it shone in that dim hall like a setting sun. I was speechless with wonder at what seemed such a strange mixture of irreverence83 and worship. While I stood silently gazing at the strange scene, a voice near me said, in most perfect high-bred English, "I suppose you don't believe in this, do you?" I turned sharply; and there at my elbow stood a Chinaman, simply dressed in white silk, with purple cap and shoes. A delightful84 subtle scent85 exhaled86 from his robes, and a gentle smile played about his calm, intellectual face. In fact, "gentleman" was writ37 large upon him; but I could not grasp the idea that it was he who had spoken. As soon as my bewilderment had passed a little, I said, "Was it you that spoke73 just now?" He nodded, and repeated his question. "Of course not," I answered; "neither do you, I should imagine?" With the slightest possible shrug87 of his shoulders, he said, "Why not? I do not claim to be wiser than the myriads88 of my ancestors whose faith it was. What sufficed them may surely content me." "But," I replied eagerly, "you have evidently studied in some English-speaking country, and you must have read our books. Did they not alter your opinions as to the wisdom of your ancestors?" "I have taken my B.A. degree at Cambridge," said he, "and I am fairly conversant89 with Western literature; but upon religious topics I do not profess42 any opinions. The subject is far too vast for me to attempt to take up, since it would necessarily mean the exclusion90 of all others; and I have much to do. Consequently I accept unquestioningly that form of religion in which I was born, taking the line of least resistance. But I must bid you good day, hoping you will enjoy your visit." And before I could say another word he was gone. I felt very small and ignorant beside this exquisite91 Oriental, whose gracious manners and beautiful voice have haunted me ever since, and, although I am fully conscious how poor a figure I must have cut beside so gifted and highly educated a man, I have never ceased to regret that I did not have a longer enjoyment92 of his pleasant company. While I still stood musing93 over this strange encounter, a heavy hand was laid upon my shoulder, and, turning sharply round, I was confronted by our second mate, whose ill-fitting clothes, gross, animalized face and boisterous94 behaviour, formed a complete contrast to the dainty gentleman who had just quitted my side. "Hullo!" he said with a sneer95, "what you doin' ere, hay? Goin' ter turn Me'ommedun?" I made some jesting reply, looking anxiously meanwhile at his cigar, and then at the silent row of priests, in grave doubt as to how they might take his noisy behaviour in their sacred building. But they were apparently used to it, for they took not the slightest notice. "Got 'ny money?" he queried96 with a grin, knowing pretty well how unlikely it was. Upon my telling him how poorly we were off, he kindly97 gave me two rupees and then went on his way.
As I had by this time had quite enough of sight-seeing, besides being hungry and thirsty, I started to look for my chum; and, after some search, found him sitting in a shady angle of the great flight of steps, intently watching the impassive figure of one of a long row of mendicants that lined the side of the way up to the temple. He was quite happy, and very much interested in the queer offerings that he had seen made to the beggar whom he had been studying. Shreds98 of tobacco, a few grains of rice, and other trifles unfamiliar99 to us, but of the tiniest possible value, were being dropped into his basket by the native passers-by, in response to the mellow100 note which resounded101 from a triangular102 piece of metal which he held suspended from a stick, and occasionally tapped with a bone. "Goin' ter give him anythin', Bill?" I asked. "'Oo? Me? Wot djer tek me for? Lazy ole swine! I bet 'ees got a —— sight more brass103 'n you er me'll ever 'ave. No bloomin' fear!" It may have been fancy, but certainly I thought I saw a gleam in that beggar's filmy eye as if Bill's contemptuous words were quite understood by him. "Well," I said, "I'm goin' ter give 'im a tanner fer luck." And, as I spoke, I fished out four annas and dropped the little piece of silver into his cup. I turned to go immediately; but he stretched forth104 a skinny arm, offering me a withered105, blood-red flower, and murmuring some (to me) utterly106 unintelligible107 words. Now, I would not willingly hurt any one's feelings gratuitously108; so I smiled cheerfully back, accepted his flower, and saying, "Bote accha; Salaam109, ole stockin'," skipped off down the steps, followed grumblingly110 by Bill. As we went, I told him of the second mate's gift. He immediately suggested taking a gharry back. I was in no wise loth to agree, for the remembrance of our morning's trudge59 was anything but pleasant. But, when we arrived at the place where the vehicles were grouped, those infernal gharry-wallahs were all so independent that they wouldn't bate111 a pice of three rupees for the trip. As this was quite out of the question, we took the road again with heavy hearts and aching feet: Bill cursing, in choicest Bermondsey, niggers in general and gharry-wallahs in particular. For about half a mile we trudged along, when, suddenly turning a slight bend in the road, we sighted a gharry ambling112 along with one door open. A bright thought seized me, and, whispering to Bill my idea, we hurried noiselessly after the slowly-moving carriage. As soon as we got near enough, we saw that the driver was soundly asleep upon his box, the reins113 dangling114 loosely from his fingers, and the old horse plodding115 along at his own sweet will. Gently we popped into the crazy old ambulance, quietly closed the door, and lounged back like two plutocrats. I don't think I ever enjoyed a ride more, for, slowly as we went, we arrived at the gharry-stand in Phayre Street all too soon to suit me. Before the gharry stopped we opened the door, and, quietly as we had entered, were stepping out, when that unlucky Bill caught his foot in the step, and, catching116 at the door to save himself, gave the whole concern a heavy lurch117. This effectually roused the driver, who jumped down off his box and demanded his fare. Bill was furious (at being caught, I suppose), and was proposing to slay118 and eat the fellow, whose yells speedily brought all his chums round. As I was getting nervous I offered him eight annas, at the same time trying to pacify119 my burly shipmate, who was carrying on like a madman. Fortunately a white policeman came along, before whose dignified120 approach all the clustering natives stood respectfully back. To him I told the exact facts of the story. Without a word he took the eight annas from me, gave it to the hack-man, and uttered the single word "Jao." The effect was magical. The crowd melted away, and we were at liberty to resume our journey. The rest of the day passed uneventfully enough. We had a splendid dinner in one of the bazaar121 dining-rooms at a rupee each, washed it down with a bottle of Bass122, and, after sundry123 cigars, strolled leisurely124 down the pier, and sat there enjoying the coolness of the evening, until, feeling tired of shore, we hailed the ship, and were fetched on board by the two apprentices125. A quiet night's rest succeeded; but the morning brought diversions. The ex-policeman came on board quietly enough, as befitted a man accustomed to discipline; but the rest, with the exception of old Hansen, who returned early on the previous day, were in a parlous126 state. Two did not return; and, later, news came that they were safely in chowkey, having covered themselves with glory by routing a whole brigade of native police who tried to arrest them, and caused grievous bodily harm to several white constables127 who had finally carried them off. One of them was the jolly Suffolker, who had thus falsified all my previous estimates of his amiability128; the other was Mick, the long Irishman, at whose outburst nobody was surprised. It is hardly necessary, perhaps, to say that no work was done that day, except a little clearing up decks, for which of course we boys were available. But, towards evening, the repentant129 revellers began to realize the extent of their folly, and to appear, in some measure, ashamed of themselves. Just at sunset a police-boat arrived bringing Mick, a deplorable object, his clothes hanging from him in festoons, and his flesh caked up with dried filth130 and blood. He was certainly much the worse for wear, but filled with an unholy delight at the thought of the glorious time he had enjoyed. It appeared, however, that the behaviour of Charley the Suffolker had been so outrageous131, and his refusal to return to his ship so decided, that the authorities—lenient, as they undoubtedly were, to sailors—were compelled to give him a month's hard labour. Upon hearing his sentence he lifted up his voice and shouted, "Hooray!" to the great annoyance of the magistrate132, who had him incontinently man-handled off to the cells.
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1
annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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8
chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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9
yarn
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| n.纱，纱线，纺线；奇闻漫谈，旅行轶事 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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12
mythology
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| n.神话，神话学，神话集 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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premature
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| adj.比预期时间早的；不成熟的，仓促的 | |
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extorting
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| v.敲诈( extort的现在分词 )；曲解 | |
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grimaces
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| n.（表蔑视、厌恶等）面部扭曲，鬼脸( grimace的名词复数 )v.扮鬼相，做鬼脸( grimace的第三人称单数 ) | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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diabolical
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| adj.恶魔似的，凶暴的 | |
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scowl
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| vi.(at)生气地皱眉，沉下脸，怒视；n.怒容 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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spurt
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| v.喷出；突然进发；突然兴隆 | |
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backwards
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| adv.往回地，向原处，倒，相反，前后倒置地 | |
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wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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implored
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| 恳求或乞求（某人）( implore的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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contention
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| n.争论，争辩，论战；论点，主张 | |
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tortuous
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| adj.弯弯曲曲的，蜿蜒的 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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folly
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| n.愚笨，愚蠢，蠢事，蠢行，傻话 | |
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meditated
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| 深思，沉思，冥想( meditate的过去式和过去分词 )； 内心策划，考虑 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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steamships
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| n.汽船，大轮船( steamship的名词复数 ) | |
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incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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warily
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| adv.留心地 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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writ
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| n.命令状，书面命令 | |
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stipulating
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| v.（尤指在协议或建议中）规定，约定，讲明（条件等）( stipulate的现在分词 )；规定，明确要求 | |
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terse
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| adj.(说话，文笔)精炼的，简明的 | |
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40
conclave
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| n.秘密会议，红衣主教团 | |
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professed
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| 公开声称的，伪称的，已立誓信教的 | |
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42
profess
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| v.声称，冒称，以...为业，正式接受入教，表明信仰 | |
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43
vigour
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| （=vigor）n.智力，体力，精力 | |
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44
gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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45
rave
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| vi.胡言乱语；热衷谈论；n.热情赞扬 | |
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46
cowardice
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| n.胆小，怯懦 | |
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47
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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48
wheedle
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| v.劝诱，哄骗 | |
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49
enraged
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| 使暴怒( enrage的过去式和过去分词 )； 歜； 激愤 | |
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50
foaming
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| adj.布满泡沫的；发泡 | |
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51
prudence
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| n.谨慎，精明，节俭 | |
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52
strictly
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| adv.严厉地，严格地；严密地 | |
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53
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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54
seaman
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| n.海员，水手，水兵 | |
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55
longing
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| n.（for）渴望 | |
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56
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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pagoda
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| n.宝塔（尤指印度和远东的多层宝塔），（印度教或佛教的）塔式庙宇 | |
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58
dissuaded
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| 劝（某人）勿做某事，劝阻( dissuade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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59
trudge
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| v.步履艰难地走；n.跋涉，费力艰难的步行 | |
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60
trudged
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| vt.& vi.跋涉，吃力地走（trudge的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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61
tantalizingly
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| adv.…得令人着急，…到令人着急的程度 | |
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persevered
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| v.坚忍，坚持( persevere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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66
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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porticoes
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| n.柱廊，（有圆柱的）门廊( portico的名词复数 ) | |
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edifice
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| n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿，教室) | |
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inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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secluded
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| adj.与世隔绝的；隐退的；偏僻的v.使隔开，使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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73
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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74
gallows
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| n.绞刑架，绞台 | |
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circumference
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| n.圆周，周长，圆周线 | |
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gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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precarious
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| adj.不安定的，靠不住的；根据不足的 | |
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squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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reverent
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| adj.恭敬的，虔诚的 | |
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adoration
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| n.爱慕，崇拜 | |
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idols
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| 偶像( idol的名词复数 )； 受崇拜的人或物； 受到热爱和崇拜的人或物； 神像 | |
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irreverence
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| n.不尊敬 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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exhaled
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| v.呼出，发散出( exhale的过去式和过去分词 )；吐出（肺中的空气、烟等），呼气 | |
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shrug
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| v.耸肩(表示怀疑、冷漠、不知等) | |
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myriads
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| n.无数，极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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conversant
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| adj.亲近的，有交情的，熟悉的 | |
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exclusion
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| n.拒绝，排除，排斥，远足，远途旅行 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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musing
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| n. 沉思，冥想 adj. 沉思的, 冥想的 动词muse的现在分词形式 | |
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boisterous
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| adj.喧闹的，欢闹的 | |
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sneer
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| v.轻蔑；嘲笑；n.嘲笑，讥讽的言语 | |
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queried
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| v.质疑，对…表示疑问( query的过去式和过去分词 )；询问 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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unfamiliar
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| adj.陌生的，不熟悉的 | |
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100
mellow
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| adj.柔和的；熟透的；v.变柔和；(使)成熟 | |
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101
resounded
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| v.（指声音等）回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 )；产生回响；（指某处）回荡着声音 | |
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102
triangular
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| adj.三角（形）的，三者间的 | |
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103
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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104
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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105
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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106
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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107
unintelligible
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| adj.无法了解的，难解的，莫明其妙的 | |
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108
gratuitously
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| 平白 | |
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109
salaam
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| n.额手之礼，问安，敬礼；v.行额手礼 | |
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grumblingly
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| 喃喃报怨着，发牢骚着 | |
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111
bate
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| v.压制；减弱；n.（制革用的）软化剂 | |
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112
ambling
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| v.（马）缓行( amble的现在分词 )；从容地走，漫步 | |
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reins
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| 感情，激情； 缰( rein的名词复数 )； 控制手段； 掌管； （成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的）保护带 | |
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114
dangling
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| 悬吊着( dangle的现在分词 )； 摆动不定； 用某事物诱惑…； 吊胃口 | |
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115
plodding
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| a.proceeding in a slow or dull way | |
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116
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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117
lurch
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| n.突然向前或旁边倒；v.蹒跚而行 | |
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118
slay
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| v.杀死，宰杀，杀戮 | |
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119
pacify
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| vt.使(某人)平静(或息怒)；抚慰 | |
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120
dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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121
bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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122
bass
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| n.男低音(歌手)；低音乐器；低音大提琴 | |
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123
sundry
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| adj.各式各样的，种种的 | |
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124
leisurely
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| adj.悠闲的；从容的，慢慢的 | |
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125
apprentices
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| 学徒，徒弟( apprentice的名词复数 ) | |
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126
parlous
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| adj.危险的，不确定的，难对付的 | |
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127
constables
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| n.警察( constable的名词复数 ) | |
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128
amiability
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| n.和蔼可亲的，亲切的，友善的 | |
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129
repentant
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| adj.对…感到悔恨的 | |
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130
filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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131
outrageous
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| adj.无理的，令人不能容忍的 | |
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132
magistrate
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| n.地方行政官，地方法官，治安官 | |
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