The origin of mountain streams is like the origin of tears, patent to the understanding but mysterious to the sense. They are always at it, but one so seldom catches them in the act. Here in the valley there is no cessation of waters even in the season when the niggard frost gives them scant9 leave to run. They make the most of their midday hour, and tinkle10 all night thinly under the ice. An ear laid to the snow catches a muffled11 hint of their eternal busyness fifteen or twenty feet under the canon drifts, and long before any appreciable12 spring thaw13, the sagging14 edges of the snow bridges mark out the place of their running. One who ventures to look for it finds the immediate16 source of the spring freshets—all the hill fronts furrowed17 with the reek18 of melting drifts, all the gravelly flats in a swirl20 of waters. But later, in June or July, when the camping season begins, there runs the stream away full and singing, with no visible reinforcement other than an icy trickle21 from some high, belated dot of snow. Oftenest the stream drops bodily from the bleak22 bowl of some alpine23 lake; sometimes breaks out of a hillside as a spring where the ear can trace it under the rubble24 of loose stones to the neighborhood of some blind pool. But that leaves the lakes to be accounted for.
The lake is the eye of the mountain, jade25 green, placid26, unwinking, also unfathomable. Whatever goes on under the high and stony27 brows is guessed at. It is always a favorite local tradition that one or another of the blind lakes is bottomless. Often they lie in such deep cairns of broken boulders28 that one never gets quite to them, or gets away unhurt. One such drops below the plunging29 slope that the Kearsarge trail winds over, perilously30, nearing the pass. It lies still and wickedly green in its sharp-lipped cap, and the guides of that region love to tell of the packs and pack animals it has swallowed up.
But the lakes of Oppapago are perhaps not so deep, less green than gray, and better befriended. The ousel haunts them, while still hang about their coasts the thin undercut drifts that never quite leave the high altitudes. In and out of the bluish ice caves he flits and sings, and his singing heard from above is sweet and uncanny like the Nixie's chord. One finds butterflies, too, about these high, sharp regions which might be called desolate31, but will not by me who love them. This is above timber-line but not too high for comforting by succulent small herbs and golden tufted grass. A granite32 mountain does not crumble33 with alacrity34, but once resolved to soil makes the best of it. Every handful of loose gravel19 not wholly water leached35 affords a plant footing, and even in such unpromising surroundings there is a choice of locations. There is never going to be any communism of mountain herbage, their affinities36 are too sure. Full in the tunnels of snow water on gravelly, open spaces in the shadow of a drift, one looks to find buttercups, frozen knee-deep by night, and owning no desire but to ripen37 their fruit above the icy bath. Soppy little plants of the portulaca and small, fine ferns shiver under the drip of falls and in dribbling38 crevices39. The bleaker40 the situation, so it is near a stream border, the better the cassiope loves it. Yet I have not found it on the polished glacier41 slips, but where the country rock cleaves42 and splinters in the high windy headlands that the wild sheep frequents, hordes43 and hordes of the white bells swing over matted, mossy foliage44. On Oppapago, which is also called Sheep Mountain, one finds not far from the beds of cassiope the ice-worn, stony hollows where the big-horns cradle their young.
These are above the wolf's quest and the eagle's wont45, and though the heather beds are softer, they are neither so dry nor so warm, and here only the stars go by. No other animal of any pretensions46 makes a habitat of the alpine regions. Now and then one gets a hint of some small, brown creature, rat or mouse kind, that slips secretly among the rocks; no others adapt themselves to desertness of aridity47 or altitude so readily as these ground inhabiting, graminivorous species. If there is an open stream the trout48 go up the lake as far as the water breeds food for them, but the ousel goes farthest, for pure love of it.
Since no lake can be at the highest point, it is possible to find plant life higher than the water borders; grasses perhaps the highest, gilias, royal blue trusses of polymonium, rosy49 plats of Sierra primroses50. What one has to get used to in flowers at high altitudes is the bleaching52 of the sun. Hardly do they hold their virgin53 color for a day, and this early fading before their function is performed gives them a pitiful appearance not according with their hardihood. The color scheme runs along the high ridges15 from blue to rosy purple, carmine54 and coral red; along the water borders it is chiefly white and yellow where the mimulus makes a vivid note, running into red when the two schemes meet and mix about the borders of the meadows, at the upper limit of the columbine.
Here is the fashion in which a mountain stream gets down from the perennial55 pastures of the snow to its proper level and identity as an irrigating56 ditch. It slips stilly by the glacier scoured57 rim51 of an ice bordered pool, drops over sheer, broken ledges58 to another pool, gathers itself, plunges59 headlong on a rocky ripple60 slope, finds a lake again, reinforced, roars downward to a pothole61, foams62 and bridles63, glides64 a tranquil65 reach in some still meadow, tumbles into a sharp groove66 between hill flanks, curdles67 under the stream tangles68, and so arrives at the open country and steadier going. Meadows, little strips of alpine freshness, begin before the timberline is reached. Here one treads on a carpet of dwarf69 willows70, downy catkins of creditable size and the greatest economy of foliage and stems. No other plant of high altitudes knows its business so well. It hugs the ground, grows roots from stem joints71 where no roots should be, grows a slender leaf or two and twice as many erect72 full catkins that rarely, even in that short growing season, fail of fruit. Dipping over banks in the inlets of the creeks73, the fortunate find the rosy apples of the miniature manzanita, barely, but always quite sufficiently74, borne above the spongy sod. It does not do to be anything but humble75 in the alpine regions, but not fearful. I have pawed about for hours in the chill sward of meadows where one might properly expect to get one's death, and got no harm from it, except it might be Oliver Twist's complaint. One comes soon after this to shrubby76 willows, and where willows are trout may be confidently looked for in most Sierra streams. There is no accounting77 for their distribution; though provident78 anglers have assisted nature of late, one still comes upon roaring brown waters where trout might very well be, but are not.
The highest limit of conifers—in the middle Sierras, the white bark pine—is not along the water border. They come to it about the level of the heather, but they have no such affinity79 for dampness as the tamarack pines. Scarcely any bird-note breaks the stillness of the timber-line, but chipmunks80 inhabit here, as may be guessed by the gnawed81 ruddy cones82 of the pines, and lowering hours the woodchucks come down to the water. On a little spit of land running into Windy Lake we found one summer the evidence of a tragedy; a pair of sheep's horns not fully83 grown caught in the crotch of a pine where the living sheep must have lodged84 them. The trunk of the tree had quite closed over them, and the skull85 bones crumbled86 away from the weathered horn cases. We hoped it was not too far out of the running of night prowlers to have put a speedy end to the long agony, but we could not be sure. I never liked the spit of Windy Lake again.
It seems that all snow nourished plants count nothing so excellent in their kind as to be forehanded with their bloom, working secretly to that end under the high piled winters. The heathers begin by the lake borders, while little sodden87 drifts still shelter under their branches. I have seen the tiniest of them (Kalmia glauca) blooming, and with well-formed fruit, a foot away from a snowbank from which it could hardly have emerged within a week. Somehow the soul of the heather has entered into the blood of the English-speaking. "And oh! is that heather?" they say; and the most indifferent ends by picking a sprig of it in a hushed, wondering way. One must suppose that the root of their respective races issued from the glacial borders at about the same epoch89, and remember their origin.
Among the pines where the slope of the land allows it, the streams run into smooth, brown, trout-abounding rills across open flats that are in reality filled lake basins. These are the displaying grounds of the gentians—blue—blue—eye-blue, perhaps, virtuous90 and likable flowers. One is not surprised to learn that they have tonic91 properties. But if your meadow should be outside the forest reserve, and the sheep have been there, you will find little but the shorter, paler G. newberryii, and in the matted sods of the little tongues of greenness that lick up among the pines along the watercourses, white, scentless92, nearly stemless, alpine violets.
At about the nine thousand foot level and in the summer there will be hosts of rosy-winged dodecatheon, called shooting-stars, outlining the crystal tunnels in the sod. Single flowers have often a two-inch spread of petal93, and the full, twelve blossomed heads above the slender pedicels have the airy effect of wings.
It is about this level one looks to find the largest lakes with thick ranks of pines bearing down on them, often swamped in the summer floods and paying the inevitable94 penalty for such encroachment95. Here in wet coves96 of the hills harbors that crowd of bloom that makes the wonder of the Sierra canons.
They drift under the alternate flicker97 and gloom of the windy rooms of pines, in gray rock shelters, and by the ooze98 of blind springs, and their juxtapositions99 are the best imaginable. Lilies come up out of fern beds, columbine swings over meadowsweet, white rein-orchids quake in the leaning grass. Open swales, where in wet years may be running water, are plantations100 of false hellebore (Veratrum californicum), tall, branched candelabra of greenish bloom above the sessile, sheathing101, boat-shaped leaves, semi-translucent in the sun. A stately plant of the lily family, but why "false?" It is frankly102 offensive in its character, and its young juices deadly as any hellebore that ever grew.
Like most mountain herbs, it has an uncanny haste to bloom. One hears by night, when all the wood is still, the crepitatious rustle103 of the unfolding leaves and the pushing flower-stalk within, that has open blossoms before it has fairly uncramped from the sheath. It commends itself by a certain exclusiveness of growth, taking enough room and never elbowing; for if the flora104 of the lake region has a fault it is that there is too much of it. We have more than three hundred species from Kearsarge Canon alone, and if that does not include them all it is because they were already collected otherwhere.
One expects to find lakes down to about nine thousand feet, leading into each other by comparatively open ripple slopes and white cascades105. Below the lakes are filled basins that are still spongy swamps, or substantial meadows, as they get down and down.
Here begin the stream tangles. On the east slopes of the middle Sierras the pines, all but an occasional yellow variety, desert the stream borders about the level of the lowest lakes, and the birches and tree-willows begin. The firs hold on almost to the mesa levels,—there are no foothills on this eastern slope,—and whoever has firs misses nothing else. It goes without saying that a tree that can afford to take fifty years to its first fruiting will repay acquaintance. It keeps, too, all that half century, a virginal grace of outline, but having once flowered, begins quietly to put away the things of its youth. Years by year the lower rounds of boughs106 are shed, leaving no scar; year by year the star-branched minarets107 approach the sky. A fir-tree loves a water border, loves a long wind in a draughty canon, loves to spend itself secretly on the inner finishings of its burnished108, shapely cones. Broken open in mid-season the petal-shaped scales show a crimson109 satin surface, perfect as a rose.
The birch—the brown-bark western birch characteristic of lower stream tangles—is a spoil sport. It grows thickly to choke the stream that feeds it; grudges110 it the sky and space for angler's rod and fly. The willows do better; painted-cup, cypripedium, and the hollow stalks of span-broad white umbels, find a footing among their stems. But in general the steep plunges, the white swirls111, green and tawny112 pools, the gliding113 hush88 of waters between the meadows and the mesas afford little fishing and few flowers.
One looks for these to begin again when once free of the rifted canon walls; the high note of babble114 and laughter falls off to the steadier mellow115 tone of a stream that knows its purpose and reflects the sky.
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1
lone
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| adj.孤寂的，单独的；唯一的 | |
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pertinent
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| adj.恰当的；贴切的；中肯的；有关的；相干的 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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furrows
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| n.犁沟( furrow的名词复数 )；（脸上的）皱纹v.犁田，开沟( furrow的第三人称单数 ) | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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scant
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| adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略 | |
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tinkle
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| vi.叮当作响；n.叮当声 | |
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muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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12
appreciable
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| adj.明显的，可见的，可估量的，可觉察的 | |
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thaw
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| v.（使）融化，（使）变得友善；n.融化，缓和 | |
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sagging
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| 下垂[沉，陷]，松垂，垂度 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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furrowed
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| v.犁田，开沟( furrow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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reek
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| v.发出臭气；n.恶臭 | |
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gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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swirl
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| v.(使)打漩，(使)涡卷；n.漩涡，螺旋形 | |
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21
trickle
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| vi.淌，滴，流出，慢慢移动，逐渐消散 | |
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22
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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rubble
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| n.（一堆）碎石，瓦砾 | |
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jade
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| n.玉石；碧玉；翡翠 | |
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placid
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| adj.安静的，平和的 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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29
plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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perilously
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| adv.充满危险地，危机四伏地 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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crumble
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| vi.碎裂，崩溃；vt.弄碎，摧毁 | |
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alacrity
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| n.敏捷，轻快，乐意 | |
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leached
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| v.（将化学品、矿物质等）过滤( leach的过去式和过去分词 )；（液体）过滤，滤去 | |
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affinities
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| n.密切关系( affinity的名词复数 )；亲近；（生性）喜爱；类同 | |
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ripen
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| vt.使成熟；vi.成熟 | |
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dribbling
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| n.（燃料或油从系统内）漏泄v.流口水( dribble的现在分词 )；（使液体）滴下或作细流；运球，带球 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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40
bleaker
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| 阴冷的( bleak的比较级 )； （状况）无望的； 没有希望的； 光秃的 | |
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glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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42
cleaves
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| v.劈开，剁开，割开( cleave的第三人称单数 ) | |
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43
hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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45
wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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46
pretensions
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| 自称( pretension的名词复数 )； 自命不凡； 要求； 权力 | |
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aridity
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| n.干旱，乏味；干燥性；荒芜 | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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49
rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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50
primroses
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| n.报春花( primrose的名词复数 )；淡黄色；追求享乐（招至恶果） | |
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51
rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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52
bleaching
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| 漂白法，漂白 | |
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53
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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54
carmine
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| n.深红色，洋红色 | |
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55
perennial
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| adj.终年的；长久的 | |
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56
irrigating
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| 灌溉( irrigate的现在分词 )； 冲洗（伤口） | |
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57
scoured
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| 走遍（某地）搜寻（人或物）( scour的过去式和过去分词 )； （用力）刷； 擦净； 擦亮 | |
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ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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plunges
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| n.跳进，投入vt.使投入，使插入，使陷入vi.投入，跳进，陷入v.颠簸( plunge的第三人称单数 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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60
ripple
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| n.涟波，涟漪，波纹，粗钢梳；vt.使...起涟漪，使起波纹； vi.呈波浪状，起伏前进 | |
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61
pothole
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| n.坑，穴 | |
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62
foams
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| n.泡沫，泡沫材料( foam的名词复数 ) | |
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bridles
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| 约束( bridle的名词复数 )； 限动器； 马笼头； 系带 | |
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64
glides
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| n.滑行( glide的名词复数 )；滑音；音渡；过渡音v.滑动( glide的第三人称单数 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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65
tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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66
groove
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| n.沟，槽；凹线，（刻出的）线条，习惯 | |
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67
curdles
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| v.（使）凝结( curdle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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69
dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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willows
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| n.柳树( willow的名词复数 )；柳木 | |
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71
joints
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| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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73
creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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76
shrubby
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| adj.灌木的，灌木一般的，灌木繁茂著的 | |
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77
accounting
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| n.会计，会计学，借贷对照表 | |
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provident
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| adj.为将来做准备的，有先见之明的 | |
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affinity
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| n.亲和力，密切关系 | |
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80
chipmunks
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| n.金花鼠( chipmunk的名词复数 ) | |
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81
gnawed
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| 咬( gnaw的过去式和过去分词 )； （长时间） 折磨某人； （使）苦恼； （长时间）危害某事物 | |
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82
cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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83
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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skull
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| n.头骨；颅骨 | |
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86
crumbled
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| （把…）弄碎， （使）碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 衰落； 坍塌； 损坏 | |
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87
sodden
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| adj.浑身湿透的；v.使浸透；使呆头呆脑 | |
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88
hush
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| int.嘘，别出声；n.沉默，静寂；v.使安静 | |
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89
epoch
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| n.(新)时代；历元 | |
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virtuous
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| adj.有品德的，善良的，贞洁的，有效力的 | |
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tonic
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| n./adj.滋补品，补药，强身的，健体的 | |
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scentless
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| adj.无气味的，遗臭已消失的 | |
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petal
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| n.花瓣 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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encroachment
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| n.侵入，蚕食 | |
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96
coves
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| n.小海湾( cove的名词复数 )；家伙 | |
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flicker
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| vi./n.闪烁，摇曳，闪现 | |
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98
ooze
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| n.软泥，渗出物；vi.渗出，泄漏；vt.慢慢渗出，流露 | |
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juxtapositions
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| n.并置，并列( juxtaposition的名词复数 ) | |
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100
plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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101
sheathing
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| n.覆盖物，罩子v.将（刀、剑等）插入鞘( sheathe的现在分词 )；包，覆盖 | |
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102
frankly
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| adv.坦白地，直率地；坦率地说 | |
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103
rustle
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| v.沙沙作响；偷盗(牛、马等)；n.沙沙声声 | |
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104
flora
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| n.(某一地区的)植物群 | |
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105
cascades
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| 倾泻( cascade的名词复数 )； 小瀑布（尤指一连串瀑布中的一支）； 瀑布状物； 倾泻（或涌出）的东西 | |
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106
boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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107
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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108
burnished
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| adj.抛光的，光亮的v.擦亮（金属等），磨光( burnish的过去式和过去分词 )；被擦亮，磨光 | |
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109
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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110
grudges
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| 不满，怨恨，妒忌( grudge的名词复数 ) | |
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111
swirls
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| n.旋转( swirl的名词复数 )；卷状物；漩涡；尘旋v.旋转，打旋( swirl的第三人称单数 ) | |
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112
tawny
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| adj.茶色的，黄褐色的；n.黄褐色 | |
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113
gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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114
babble
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| v.含糊不清地说，胡言乱语地说，儿语 | |
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115
mellow
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| adj.柔和的；熟透的；v.变柔和；(使)成熟 | |
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