WE returned at between seven and eight that night. After a bath I sat out on the large balcony, or veranda1, commanding the valley, and enjoyed the moonlight. The burnished2 surface of the olive trees, and brown fields already being plowed3 with white oxen and wooden shares, gave back a soft glow that was somehow like the patina4 on bronze. There was a faint odor of flowers in the wind and here and there lights gleaming. From some street in the town I heard singing and the sound of a mandolin. I slept soundly.
At breakfast,—coffee, honey, rolls and butter,—my Abbé gave me his card. He was going to Florence. He asked the hotel man to say to me that he had had a charming time and would I not come to France and visit him? “When I learn to speak French,” I replied, smiling at him. He smiled and nodded. We shook hands and parted.
After breakfast I called a little open carriage such as they use in Paris and Monte Carlo and was off for Spello; and he took an early omnibus and caught his train.
On this trip which Barfleur had recommended as offering a splendid view of cypresses5 I was not disappointed: about some villa7 there was an imposing8 architectural arrangement of them and an old Roman amphitheater nearby—the ruins of it—bespoke the prosperous Roman life which had long since disappeared. Spello, like Assisi, and beyond it Perugia, (all these towns in this central valley in fact) was set on top of a high ridge9, and on some peak of it at that. As seen from the valley below it was366 most impressive. Close at hand, in its narrow winding10 streets it was simply strange, outre, almost bizarre, and yet a lovely little place after its kind. Like Assisi it was very poor—only more so. A little shrine11 to some old Greek divinity was preserved here and at the very top of all, on the extreme upper round of the hill was a Franciscan monastery12 which I invaded without a by your leave and walked in its idyllic13 garden. There and then I decided14 that if ever fortune should permit I would surely return to Spello and write a book, and that this garden and monastery should be my home. It was so eerie15 here—so sweet. The atmosphere was so wine-like. I wandered about under green trees and beside well-kept flower beds enjoying the spectacle until suddenly peering over a wall I beheld16 a small garden on a slightly lower terrace and a brown-cowled monk17 gathering18 vegetables. He had a basket on his arm, his hood19 back over his shoulders—a busy and silent anchorite. After a time as I gazed he looked and smiled, apparently20 not startled by my presence and then went on with his work. “When I come again,” I said, “I shall surely live here and I’ll get him to cook for me.” Lovely thought! I leaned over other walls and saw in the narrow, winding streets below natives bringing home bundles of fagots on the backs of long-eared donkeys, and women carrying water. Very soon, I suppose, a car line will be built and the uniformed Italian conductors will call “Assisi!” “Perugia!” and even “The Tomb of St. Francis!”
Of all the hill-cities I saw in Italy certainly Perugia was the most remarkable21, the most sparkling, the most forward in all things commercial. It stands high, very high, above the plain as you come in at the depot22 and a wide-windowed trolley-car carries you up to the principal square, the Piazza23 Vittorio Emanuele, stopping in front367 of the modern hotels which command the wide sea-like views which the valley presents below. Never was a city so beautifully located. Wonderful ridges24 of mountains fade into amazing lavenders, purples, scarlets25, and blues26, as the evening falls or the dawn brightens. If I were trying to explain where some of the painters of the Umbrian school, particularly Perugino, secured their wonderful sky touches, their dawn and evening effects, I should say that they had once lived at Perugia. Perugino did. It seemed to me as I wandered about it the two days that I was there that it was the most human and industrious27 little city I had ever walked into. Every living being seemed to have so much to do. You could hear, as you went up and down the streets—streets that ascend28 and descend29 in long, winding stairways, step by step, for blocks—pianos playing, anvils30 ringing, machinery31 humming, saws droning, and, near the great abattoir32 where cattle were evidently slaughtered33 all day long, the piercing squeals34 of pigs in their death throes. There was a busy market-place crowded from dawn until noon with the good citizens of Perugia buying everything from cabbages and dress-goods to picture post-cards and hardware. Long rows of fat Perugian old ladies, sitting with baskets of wares35 in front of them, all gossiped genially36 as they awaited purchasers. In the public square facing the great hotels, nightly between seven and ten, the whole spirited city seemed to be walking, a whole world of gay, enthusiastic life that would remind you of an American manufacturing town on a Saturday night—only this happens every night in Perugia.
When I arrived there I went directly to my hotel, which faces the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. It was excellent, charmingly built, beautifully located, with a wide view of the Umbrian plain which is so wonderful in its array of distant mountains and so rich in orchards38, monasteries39,368 convents and churches. I think I never saw a place with so much variety of scenery, such curious twists of streets and lanes, such heights and depths of levels and platforms on which houses, the five- and six-story tenement40 of the older order of life in Italy, are built. The streets are all narrow, in some places not more than ten or fifteen feet wide, arched completely over for considerable distances, and twisting and turning, ascending41 or descending42 as they go, but they give into such adorable squares and open places, such magnificent views at every turn!
I do not know whether what I am going to say will have the force and significance that I wish to convey, but a city like Perugia, taken as a whole, all its gates, all its towers, all its upward-sweeping details, is like a cathedral in itself, a Gothic cathedral. You would have to think of the ridge on which it stands as providing the nave43 and the transepts and the apse and then the quaint44 little winding streets of the town itself with their climbing houses and towers would suggest the pinnacles45, spandrels, flying buttresses46, airy statues and crosses of a cathedral like Amiens. I know of no other simile47 that quite suggests Perugia,—that is really so true to it.
No one save an historical zealot could extract much pleasure from the complicated political and religious history of this city. However once upon a time there was a guild48 of money-changers and bankers which built a hall, called the Hall of the Cambio, which is very charming; and at another time (or nearly the same time) there was a dominant49 Guelph party which, in conjunction with some wealthy townsmen known as the “Raspanti,” built what is now known as the Palazzo Publico or Palazzo Communale, in what is now known as the Piazza del Municipio, which I think is perfect. It is not a fortress50 like the Bargello or the Palazzo Vecchio at Florence, but it is369 a perfect architectural thing, the charm of which remains51 with me fresh and keen. It is a beautiful structure—one that serves charmingly the uses to which it is put—that of a public center for officials and a picture-gallery. It was in one of these rooms, devoted52 to a collection of Umbrian art, that I found a pretentious53 collection of the work of Perugino, the one really important painter who ever lived or worked in Perugia—and the little city now makes much of him.
If I felt like ignoring the long-winded art discussions of comparatively trivial things, the charm and variety of the town and its present-day life was in no wise lost upon me.
The unheralded things, the things which the guide-books do not talk about, are sometimes so charming. I found it entrancing to descend of a morning by lovely, cool, stone passages from the Piazza of Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza of the Army, and watch the soldiers, principally cavalry54, drill. Their ground was a space about five acres in extent, as flat as a table, set high above the plain, with deep ravines descending on either hand, and the quaint houses and public institutions of Perugia looking down from above. To the left, as you looked out over the plain, across the intervening ravine, was another spur of the town, built also on a flat ridge with the graceful55 church of St. Peter and its beautiful Italian-Gothic tower, and the whole road that swept along the edge of the cliff, making a delightful56 way for carriages and automobiles57. I took delight in seeing how wonderfully the deep green ravines separate one section of the town from another, and in watching the soldiers, Italy then being at war with Tripoli.
You could stand, your arms resting upon some old brownish-green wall, and look out over intervening fields370 to distant ranges of mountains, or tower-like Assisi and Spoleto. The variety of the coloring of the plain below was never wearying.
This Italian valley was so beautiful that I should like to say one more word about the skies and the wonderful landscape effects. North of here, in Florence, Venice and Milan, they do not occur so persistently58 and with such glorious warmth at this season of the year. At this height the nights were not cold, but cool, and the mornings burst with such a blaze of color as to defy the art of all save the greatest painters. They were not so much lurid59 as richly spiritualized, being shot through with a strange electric radiance. This did not mean, as it would so often in America, that a cloudy day was to follow. Rather the radiance slowly gave place to a glittering field of light that brought out every slope and olive orchard37 and distant cypress6 and pine with amazing clearness. The bells of the churches in Perugia and in the valley below were like muezzins calling to each other from their praying-towers. As the day closed the features of the landscape seemed to be set in crystal, and the greens and browns and grays to have at times a metallic60 quality. Outside the walls in the distance were churches, shrines61, and monasteries, always with a cypress or two, sometimes with many, which stood out with great distinctness, and from distant hillsides you would hear laborers62 singing in the bright sun. Well might they sing, for I know of no place where life would present to them a fairer aspect.
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1 veranda | |
n.走廊;阳台 | |
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2 burnished | |
adj.抛光的,光亮的v.擦亮(金属等),磨光( burnish的过去式和过去分词 );被擦亮,磨光 | |
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3 plowed | |
v.耕( plow的过去式和过去分词 );犁耕;费力穿过 | |
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4 patina | |
n.铜器上的绿锈,年久而产生的光泽 | |
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5 cypresses | |
n.柏属植物,柏树( cypress的名词复数 ) | |
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6 cypress | |
n.柏树 | |
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7 villa | |
n.别墅,城郊小屋 | |
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8 imposing | |
adj.使人难忘的,壮丽的,堂皇的,雄伟的 | |
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9 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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10 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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11 shrine | |
n.圣地,神龛,庙;v.将...置于神龛内,把...奉为神圣 | |
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12 monastery | |
n.修道院,僧院,寺院 | |
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13 idyllic | |
adj.质朴宜人的,田园风光的 | |
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14 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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15 eerie | |
adj.怪诞的;奇异的;可怕的;胆怯的 | |
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16 beheld | |
v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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17 monk | |
n.和尚,僧侣,修道士 | |
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18 gathering | |
n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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19 hood | |
n.头巾,兜帽,覆盖;v.罩上,以头巾覆盖 | |
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20 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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21 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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22 depot | |
n.仓库,储藏处;公共汽车站;火车站 | |
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23 piazza | |
n.广场;走廊 | |
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24 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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25 scarlets | |
鲜红色,猩红色( scarlet的名词复数 ) | |
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26 blues | |
n.抑郁,沮丧;布鲁斯音乐 | |
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27 industrious | |
adj.勤劳的,刻苦的,奋发的 | |
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28 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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29 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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30 anvils | |
n.(铁)砧( anvil的名词复数 );砧骨 | |
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31 machinery | |
n.(总称)机械,机器;机构 | |
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32 abattoir | |
n.屠宰场,角斗场 | |
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33 slaughtered | |
v.屠杀,杀戮,屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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34 squeals | |
n.长而尖锐的叫声( squeal的名词复数 )v.长声尖叫,用长而尖锐的声音说( squeal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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35 wares | |
n. 货物, 商品 | |
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36 genially | |
adv.亲切地,和蔼地;快活地 | |
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37 orchard | |
n.果园,果园里的全部果树,(美俚)棒球场 | |
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38 orchards | |
(通常指围起来的)果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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39 monasteries | |
修道院( monastery的名词复数 ) | |
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40 tenement | |
n.公寓;房屋 | |
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41 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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42 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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43 nave | |
n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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44 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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45 pinnacles | |
顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 ); 顶点; 尖顶; 小尖塔 | |
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46 buttresses | |
n.扶壁,扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑,加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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47 simile | |
n.直喻,明喻 | |
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48 guild | |
n.行会,同业公会,协会 | |
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49 dominant | |
adj.支配的,统治的;占优势的;显性的;n.主因,要素,主要的人(或物);显性基因 | |
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50 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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51 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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52 devoted | |
adj.忠诚的,忠实的,热心的,献身于...的 | |
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53 pretentious | |
adj.自命不凡的,自负的,炫耀的 | |
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54 cavalry | |
n.骑兵;轻装甲部队 | |
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55 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
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56 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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57 automobiles | |
n.汽车( automobile的名词复数 ) | |
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58 persistently | |
ad.坚持地;固执地 | |
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59 lurid | |
adj.可怕的;血红的;苍白的 | |
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60 metallic | |
adj.金属的;金属制的;含金属的;产金属的;像金属的 | |
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61 shrines | |
圣地,圣坛,神圣场所( shrine的名词复数 ) | |
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62 laborers | |
n.体力劳动者,工人( laborer的名词复数 );(熟练工人的)辅助工 | |
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