Mr. Delaney is expected to arrive soon from the lowlands with a new stock of provisions, and as the flock is to be moved to fresh pastures we shall all be well fed. In the mean time our stock of beans as well as flour has failed—everything but mutton, sugar, and tea. The shepherd is somewhat demoralized, and seems to care but little what becomes of his flock. He says that since the boss has failed to feed him he is not rightly bound to feed the sheep, and swears that no decent white man can climb these steep mountains on mutton alone. “It’s not fittin’ grub for a white man really white. For dogs and coyotes and Indians it’s different. Good grub, good sheep. That’s what I say.” Such was Billy’s Fourth of July oration3.
July 5. The clouds of noon on the high Sierra seem yet more marvelously, indescribably beautiful from day to day as one becomes[Pg 76] more wakeful to see them. The smoke of the gunpowder4 burned yesterday on the lowlands, and the eloquence5 of the orators6 has probably settled or been blown away by this time. Here every day is a holiday, a jubilee7 ever sounding with serene8 enthusiasm, without wear or waste or cloying9 weariness. Everything rejoicing. Not a single cell or crystal unvisited or forgotten.
July 6. Mr. Delaney has not arrived, and the bread famine is sore. We must eat mutton a while longer, though it seems hard to get accustomed to it. I have heard of Texas pioneers living without bread or anything made from the cereals for months without suffering, using the breast-meat of wild turkeys for bread. Of this kind they had plenty in the good old days when life, though considered less safe, was fussed over the less. The trappers and fur traders of early days in the Rocky Mountain regions lived on bison and beaver10 meat for months. Salmon-eaters, too, there are among both Indians and whites who seem to suffer little or not at all from the want of bread. Just at this moment mutton seems the least desirable of food, though of good quality. We pick out the leanest bits, and down they go against heavy disgust, causing nausea11 and an effort to reject the offensive stuff. Tea makes matters[Pg 77] worse, if possible. The stomach begins to assert itself as an independent creature with a will of its own. We should boil lupine leaves, clover, starchy petioles, and saxifrage rootstocks like the Indians. We try to ignore our gastric13 troubles, rise and gaze about us, turn our eyes to the mountains, and climb doggedly14 up through brush and rocks into the heart of the scenery. A stifled15 calm comes on, and the day’s duties and even enjoyments16 are languidly got through with. We chew a few leaves of ceanothus by way of luncheon17, and smell or chew the spicy18 monardella for the dull headache and stomach-ache that now lightens, now comes muffling19 down upon us and into us like fog. At night more mutton, flesh to flesh, down with it, not too much, and there are the stars shining through the cedar20 plumes21 and branches above our beds.
July 7. Rather weak and sickish this morning, and all about a piece of bread. Can scarce command attention to my best studies, as if one couldn’t take a few days’ saunter in the Godful woods without maintaining a base on a wheat-field and gristmill. Like caged parrots we want a cracker23, any of the hundred kinds—the remainder biscuit of a voyage around the world would answer well enough, nor would the wholesomeness24 of saleratus biscuit be questioned.[Pg 78] Bread without flesh is a good diet, as on many botanical excursions I have proved. Tea also may easily be ignored. Just bread and water and delightful26 toil27 is all I need,—not unreasonably28 much, yet one ought to be trained and tempered to enjoy life in these brave wilds in full independence of any particular kind of nourishment29. That this may be accomplished30 is manifest, as far as bodily welfare is concerned, in the lives of people of other climes. The Eskimo, for example, gets a living far north of the wheat line, from oily seals and whales. Meat, berries, bitter weeds, and blubber, or only the last, for months at a time; and yet these people all around the frozen shores of our continent are said to be hearty31, jolly, stout32, and brave. We hear, too, of fish-eaters, carnivorous as spiders, yet well enough as far as stomachs are concerned, while we are so ridiculously helpless, making wry33 faces over our fare, looking sheepish in digestive distress34 amid rumbling35, grumbling36 sounds that might well pass for smothered37 baas. We have a large supply of sugar, and this evening it occurred to me that these belligerent38 stomachs might possibly, like complaining children, be coaxed39 with candy. Accordingly the frying-pan was cleansed40, and a lot of sugar cooked in it to a sort of wax, but this stuff only made matters worse.[Pg 79]
Man seems to be the only animal whose food soils him, making necessary much washing and shield-like bibs and napkins. Moles41 living in the earth and eating slimy worms are yet as clean as seals or fishes, whose lives are one perpetual wash. And, as we have seen, the squirrels in these resiny woods keep themselves clean in some mysterious way; not a hair is sticky, though they handle the gummy cones42, and glide43 about apparently44 without care. The birds, too, are clean, though they seem to make a good deal of fuss washing and cleaning their feathers. Certain flies and ants I see are in a fix, entangled45 and sealed up in the sugar-wax we threw away, like some of their ancestors in amber46. Our stomachs, like tired muscles, are sore with long squirming. Once I was very hungry in the Bonaventure graveyard47 near Savannah, Georgia, having fasted for several days; then the empty stomach seemed to chafe48 in much the same way as now, and a somewhat similar tenderness and aching was produced, hard to bear, though the pain was not acute. We dream of bread, a sure sign we need it. Like the Indians, we ought to know how to get the starch12 out of fern and saxifrage stalks, lily bulbs, pine bark, etc. Our education has been sadly neglected for many generations. Wild rice would be good. I noticed a leersia in[Pg 80] wet meadow edges, but the seeds are small. Acorns49 are not ripe, nor pine nuts, nor filberts. The inner bark of pine or spruce might be tried. Drank tea until half intoxicated50. Man seems to crave51 a stimulant52 when anything extraordinary is going on, and this is the only one I use. Billy chews great quantities of tobacco, which I suppose helps to stupefy and moderate his misery53. We look and listen for the Don every hour. How beautiful upon the mountains his big feet would be!
In the warm, hospitable54 Sierra, shepherds and mountain men in general, as far as I have seen, are easily satisfied as to food supplies and bedding. Most of them are heartily55 content to “rough it,” ignoring Nature’s fineness as bothersome or unmanly. The shepherd’s bed is often only the bare ground and a pair of blankets, with a stone, a piece of wood, or a pack-saddle for a pillow. In choosing the spot, he shows less care than the dogs, for they usually deliberate before making up their minds in so important an affair, going from place to place, scraping away loose sticks and pebbles56, and trying for comfort by making many changes, while the shepherd casts himself down anywhere, seemingly the least skilled of all rest seekers. His food, too, even when he has all he wants, is usually far from delicate, either in kind[Pg 81] or cooking. Beans, bread of any sort, bacon, mutton, dried peaches, and sometimes potatoes and onions, make up his bill-of-fare, the two latter articles being regarded as luxuries on account of their weight as compared with the nourishment they contain; a half-sack or so of each may be put into the pack in setting out from the home ranch22 and in a few days they are done. Beans are the main standby, portable, wholesome25, and capable of going far, besides being easily cooked, although curiously57 enough a great deal of mystery is supposed to lie about the bean-pot. No two cooks quite agree on the methods of making beans do their best, and, after petting and coaxing58 and nursing the savory59 mess,—well oiled and mellowed60 with bacon boiled into the heart of it,—the proud cook will ask, after dishing out a quart or two for trial, “Well, how do you like my beans?” as if by no possibility could they be like any other beans cooked in the same way, but must needs possess some special virtue61 of which he alone is master. Molasses, sugar, or pepper may be used to give desired flavors; or the first water may be poured off and a spoonful or two of ashes or soda62 added to dissolve or soften63 the skins more fully64, according to various tastes and notions. But, like casks of wine, no two potfuls are exactly alike to every palate.[Pg 82] Some are supposed to be spoiled by the moon, by some unlucky day, by the beans having been grown on soil not suitable; or the whole year may be to blame as not favorable for beans.
Coffee, too, has its marvels65 in the camp kitchen, but not so many, and not so inscrutable as those that beset66 the bean-pot. A low, complacent67 grunt68 follows a mouthful drawn69 in with a gurgle, and the remark cast forth70 aimlessly, “That’s good coffee.” Then another gurgling sip71 and repetition of the judgment72, “Yes, sir, that is good coffee.” As to tea, there are but two kinds, weak and strong, the stronger the better. The only remark heard is, “That tea’s weak,” otherwise it is good enough and not worth mentioning. If it has been boiled an hour or two or smoked on a pitchy fire, no matter,—who cares for a little tannin or creosote? they make the black beverage73 all the stronger and more attractive to tobacco-tanned palates.
Sheep-camp bread, like most California camp bread, is baked in Dutch ovens, some of it in the form of yeast74 powder biscuit, an unwholesome sticky compound leading straight to dyspepsia. The greater part, however, is fermented75 with sour dough76, a handful from each batch77 being saved and put away in the mouth of the flour sack to inoculate78 the next.[Pg 83] The oven is simply a cast-iron pot, about five inches deep and from twelve to eighteen inches wide. After the batch has been mixed and kneaded in a tin pan the oven is slightly heated and rubbed with a piece of tallow or pork rind. The dough is then placed in it, pressed out against the sides, and left to rise. When ready for baking a shovelful79 of coals is spread out by the side of the fire and the oven set upon them, while another shovelful is placed on top of the lid, which is raised from time to time to see that the requisite80 amount of heat is being kept up. With care good bread may be made in this way, though it is liable to be burned or to be sour, or raised too much, and the weight of the oven is a serious objection.
At last Don Delaney comes doon the lang glen—hunger vanishes, we turn our eyes to the mountains, and to-morrow we go climbing toward cloudland.
Never while anything is left of me shall this first camp be forgotten. It has fairly grown into me, not merely as memory pictures, but as part and parcel of mind and body alike. The deep hopper-like hollow, with its majestic81 trees through which all the wonderful nights the stars poured their beauty. The flowery wildness of the high steep slope toward Brown’s Flat, and its bloom-fragrance descending82 at[Pg 84] the close of the still days. The embowered river-reaches with their multitude of voices making melody, the stately flow and rush and glad exulting83 onsweeping currents caressing84 the dipping sedge-leaves and bushes and mossy stones, swirling85 in pools, dividing against little flowery islands, breaking gray and white here and there, ever rejoicing, yet with deep solemn undertones recalling the ocean—the brave little bird ever beside them, singing with sweet human tones among the waltzing foam-bells, and like a blessed evangel explaining God’s love. And the Pilot Peak Ridge86, its long withdrawing slopes gracefully87 modeled and braided, reaching from climate to climate, feathered with trees that are the kings of their race, their ranks nobly marshaled to view, spire88 above spire, crown above crown, waving their long, leafy arms, tossing their cones like ringing bells—blessed sun-fed mountaineers rejoicing in their strength, every tree tuneful, a harp89 for the winds and the sun. The hazel and buckthorn pastures of the deer, the sun-beaten brows purple and yellow with mint and golden-rods, carpeted with chamæbatia, humming with bees. And the dawns and sunrises and sundowns of these mountain days,—the rose light creeping higher among the stars, changing to daffodil yellow, the level beams[Pg 85] bursting forth, streaming across the ridges90, touching91 pine after pine, awakening92 and warming all the mighty93 host to do gladly their shining day’s work. The great sun-gold noons, the alabaster94 cloud-mountains, the landscape beaming with consciousness like the face of a god. The sunsets, when the trees stood hushed awaiting their good-night blessings95. Divine, enduring, unwastable wealth.
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1
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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ripening
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| v.成熟，使熟( ripen的现在分词 )；熟化；熟成 | |
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oration
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| n.演说，致辞，叙述法 | |
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gunpowder
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| n.火药 | |
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eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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orators
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| n.演说者，演讲家( orator的名词复数 ) | |
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jubilee
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| n.周年纪念；欢乐 | |
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serene
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| adj. 安详的，宁静的，平静的 | |
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cloying
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| adj.甜得发腻的 | |
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beaver
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| n.海狸，河狸 | |
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nausea
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| n.作呕，恶心；极端的憎恶(或厌恶) | |
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starch
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| n.淀粉；vt.给...上浆 | |
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gastric
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| adj.胃的 | |
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doggedly
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| adv.顽强地，固执地 | |
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stifled
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| （使）窒息， （使）窒闷( stifle的过去式和过去分词 )； 镇压，遏制； 堵 | |
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enjoyments
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| 愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 )； 令人愉快的事物； 享有； 享受 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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spicy
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| adj.加香料的；辛辣的，有风味的 | |
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muffling
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| v.压抑，捂住( muffle的现在分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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plumes
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| 羽毛( plume的名词复数 )； 羽毛饰； 羽毛状物； 升上空中的羽状物 | |
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ranch
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| n.大牧场，大农场 | |
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cracker
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| n.（无甜味的）薄脆饼干 | |
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wholesomeness
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| 卫生性 | |
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wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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unreasonably
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| adv. 不合理地 | |
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nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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wry
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| adj.讽刺的；扭曲的 | |
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distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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rumbling
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| n. 隆隆声, 辘辘声 adj. 隆隆响的 动词rumble的现在分词 | |
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grumbling
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| adj. 喃喃鸣不平的, 出怨言的 | |
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smothered
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| （使）窒息， （使）透不过气( smother的过去式和过去分词 )； 覆盖； 忍住； 抑制 | |
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belligerent
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| adj.好战的，挑起战争的；n.交战国，交战者 | |
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coaxed
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| v.哄，用好话劝说( coax的过去式和过去分词 )；巧言骗取；哄劝，劝诱 | |
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cleansed
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| 弄干净，清洗( cleanse的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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moles
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| 防波堤( mole的名词复数 )； 鼹鼠； 痣； 间谍 | |
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cones
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| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
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glide
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| n./v.溜，滑行；(时间)消逝 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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entangled
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| adj.卷入的；陷入的；被缠住的；缠在一起的v.使某人（某物/自己）缠绕，纠缠于（某物中），使某人（自己）陷入（困难或复杂的环境中）( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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amber
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| n.琥珀；琥珀色；adj.琥珀制的 | |
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graveyard
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| n.坟场 | |
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chafe
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| v.擦伤；冲洗；惹怒 | |
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acorns
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| n.橡子，栎实( acorn的名词复数 ) | |
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intoxicated
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| 喝醉的，极其兴奋的 | |
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crave
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| vt.渴望得到，迫切需要，恳求，请求 | |
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stimulant
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| n.刺激物，兴奋剂 | |
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53
misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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56
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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coaxing
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| v.哄，用好话劝说( coax的现在分词 )；巧言骗取；哄劝，劝诱；“锻炼”效应 | |
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savory
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| adj.风味极佳的，可口的，味香的 | |
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mellowed
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| （使）成熟( mellow的过去式和过去分词 )； 使色彩更加柔和，使酒更加醇香 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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soda
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| n.苏打水；汽水 | |
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soften
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| v.(使)变柔软；(使)变柔和 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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marvels
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| n.奇迹( marvel的名词复数 )；令人惊奇的事物（或事例）；不平凡的成果；成就v.惊奇，对…感到惊奇( marvel的第三人称单数 ) | |
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beset
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| v.镶嵌；困扰，包围 | |
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complacent
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| adj.自满的；自鸣得意的 | |
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grunt
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| v.嘟哝；作呼噜声；n.呼噜声，嘟哝 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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sip
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| v.小口地喝，抿，呷；n.一小口的量 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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beverage
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| n.(水，酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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74
yeast
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| n.酵母；酵母片；泡沫；v.发酵；起泡沫 | |
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fermented
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| v.（使）发酵( ferment的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）激动；骚动；骚扰 | |
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dough
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| n.生面团；钱，现款 | |
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batch
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| n.一批(组，群)；一批生产量 | |
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inoculate
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| v.给...接种，给...注射疫苗 | |
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79
shovelful
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| n．一铁铲 | |
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80
requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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81
majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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82
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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83
exulting
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| vi. 欢欣鼓舞，狂喜 | |
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84
caressing
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| 爱抚的，表现爱情的，亲切的 | |
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85
swirling
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| v.旋转，打旋( swirl的现在分词 ) | |
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86
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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87
gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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88
spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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89
harp
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| n.竖琴；天琴座 | |
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90
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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91
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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92
awakening
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| n.觉醒，醒悟 adj.觉醒中的；唤醒的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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94
alabaster
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| adj.雪白的；n.雪花石膏；条纹大理石 | |
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95
blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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