The most telling thing learned in these mountain excursions is the influence of cleavage joints2 on the features sculptured from the general mass of the range. Evidently the denudation3 has been enormous, while the inevitable4 outcome is subtle balanced beauty. Comprehended in general views, the features of the wildest landscape seem to be as harmoniously5 related as the features of a human face. Indeed, they look human and radiate spiritual beauty, divine thought, however covered and concealed6 by rock and snow.
Mr. Delaney has hardly had time to ask me how I enjoyed my trip, though he has facilitated and encouraged my plans all summer, and declares I’ll be famous some day, a kind guess that seems strange and incredible to a wandering wilderness-lover with never a[Pg 255] thought or dream of fame while humbly7 trying to trace and learn and enjoy Nature’s lessons.
The camp stuff is now packed on the horses, and the flock is headed for the home ranch8. Away we go, down through the pines, leaving the lovely lawn where we have camped so long. I wonder if I’ll ever see it again. The sod is so tough and close it is scarcely at all injured by the sheep. Fortunately they are not fond of silky glacier9 meadow grass. The day is perfectly10 clear, not a cloud or the faintest hint of a cloud is visible, and there is no wind. I wonder if in all the world, at a height of nine thousand feet, weather so steadily11, faithfully calm and bright and hospitable13 may anywhere else be found. We are going away fearing destructive storms, though it is difficult to conceive weather changes so great.
Though the water is now low in the river, the usual difficulty occurred in getting the flock across it. Every sheep seemed to be invincibly14 determined15 to die any sort of dry death rather than wet its feet. Carlo has learned the sheep business as perfectly as the best shepherd, and it is interesting to watch his intelligent efforts to push or frighten the silly creatures into the water. They had to be fairly crowded and shoved over the bank; and when at last one crossed because it could not push[Pg 256] its way back, the whole flock suddenly plunged17 in headlong together, as if the river was the only desirable part of the world. Aside from mere18 money profit one would rather herd16 wolves than sheep. As soon as they clambered up the opposite bank, they began baaing and feeding as if nothing unusual had happened. We crossed the meadows and drove slowly up the south rim19 of the valley through the same woods I had passed on my way to Cathedral Peak, and camped for the night by the side of a small pond on top of the big lateral20 moraine.
September 10. In the morning at daybreak not one of the two thousand sheep was in sight. Examining the tracks, we discovered that they had been scattered21, perhaps by a bear. In a few hours all were found and gathered into one flock again. Had fine view of a deer. How graceful22 and perfect in every way it seemed as compared with the silly, dusty, tousled sheep! From the high ground hereabouts had another grand view to the northward—a heaving, swelling23 sea of domes24 and round-backed ridges27 fringed with pines, and bounded by innumerable sharp-pointed28 peaks, gray and barren-looking, though so full of beautiful life. Another day of the calm, cloudless kind, purple in the morning and evening. The evening glow[Pg 257] has been very marked for the last two or three weeks. Perhaps the “zodiacal light.”
September 11. Cloudless. Slight frost. Calm. Fairly started downhill, and now are camped at the west end meadows of Lake Tenaya—a charming place. Lake smooth as glass, mirroring its miles of glacier-polished pavements and bold mountain walls. Find aster29 still in flower. Here is about the upper limit of the dwarf30 form of the goldcup oak,—eight thousand feet above sea-level,—reaching about two thousand feet higher than the California black oak (Quercus Californica). Lovely evening, the lake reflections after dark marvelously impressive.
September 12. Cloudless day, all pure sun-gold. Among the magnificent silver firs once more, within two miles of the brink31 of Yosemite, at the famous Portuguese32 bear camp. Chaparral of goldcup oak, manzanita, and ceanothus abundant hereabouts, wanting about the Tuolumne meadows, although the elevation33 is but little higher there. The two-leaved pine, though far more abundant about the Tuolumne meadow region, reaches its greatest size on stream-sides hereabouts and around meadows that are rather boggy34. All the best dry ground is taken by the magnificent silver fir, which here reaches its greatest size[Pg 258] and forms a well-defined belt. A glorious tree. Have fine bed of its boughs35 to-night.
September 13. Camp this evening at Yosemite Creek36, close to the stream, on a little sand flat near our old camp-ground. The vegetation is already brown and yellow and dry; the creek almost dry also. The slender form of the two-leaved pine on its banks is, I think, the handsomest I have anywhere seen. It might easily pass at first sight for a distinct species, though surely only a variety (Murrayana), due to crowded and rapid growth on good soil. The yellow pine is as variable, or perhaps more so. The form here and a thousand feet higher, on crumbling37 rocks, is broad branching, with closely furrowed38, reddish bark, large cones39, and long leaves. It is one of the hardiest40 of pines, and has wonderful vitality41. The tassels42 of long, stout43 needles shining silvery in the sun, when the wind is blowing them all in the same direction, is one of the most splendid spectacles these glorious Sierra forests have to show. This variety of Pinus ponderosa is regarded as a distinct species, Pinus Jeffreyi, by some botanists44. The basin of this famous Yosemite stream is extremely rocky,—seems fairly to be paved with domes like a street with big cobblestones. I wonder if I shall ever be allowed to explore it. It draws me so strongly, I would make any[Pg 259] sacrifice to try to read its lessons. I thank God for this glimpse of it. The charms of these mountains are beyond all common reason, unexplainable and mysterious as life itself.
September 14. Nearly all day in magnificent fir forest, the top branches laden45 with superb erect46 gray cones shining with beads47 of pure balsam. The squirrels are cutting them off at a great rate. Bump, bump, I hear them falling, soon to be gathered and stored for winter bread. Those that chance to be left by the industrious48 harvesters drop the scales and bracts when fully12 ripe, and it is fine to see the purple-winged seeds flying in swirling49, merry-looking flocks seeking their fortunes. The bole and dead limbs of nearly every tree in the main forest-belt are ornamented50 by conspicuous51 tufts and strips of a yellow lichen52.
Camped for the night at Cascade53 Creek, near the Mono Trail crossing. Manzanita berries now ripe. Cloudiness to-day about .10. The sunset very rich, flaming purple and crimson54 showing gloriously through the aisles55 of the woods.
September 15. The weather pure gold, cloudiness about .05, white cirrus flects and pencilings around the horizon. Move two or three miles and camp at Tamarack Flat. Wandering in the woods here back of the pines which[Pg 260] bound the meadows, I found very noble specimens56 of the magnificent silver fir, the tallest about two hundred and forty feet high and five feet in diameter four feet from the ground.
September 16. Crawled slowly four or five miles to-day through the glorious forest to Crane Flat, where we are camped for the night. The forests we so admired in summer seem still more beautiful and sublime57 in this mellow58 autumn light. Lovely starry59 night, the tall, spiring60 tree-tops relieved in jet black against the sky. I linger by the fire, loath61 to go to bed.
September 17. Left camp early. Ran over the Tuolumne divide and down a few miles to a grove62 of sequoias that I had heard of, directed by the Don. They occupy an area of perhaps less than a hundred acres. Some of the trees are noble, colossal63 old giants, surrounded by magnificent sugar pines and Douglas spruces. The perfect specimens not burned or broken are singularly regular and symmetrical, though not at all conventional, showing infinite variety in general unity64 and harmony; the noble shafts65 with rich purplish brown fluted66 bark, free of limbs for one hundred and fifty feet or so, ornamented here and there with leafy rosettes; main branches of the oldest trees very large, crooked67 and rugged68, zigzagging69 stiffly outward seemingly lawless, yet unexpectedly stooping[Pg 261] just at the right distance from the trunk and dissolving in dense70 bossy71 masses of branchlets, thus making a regular though greatly varied72 outline,—a cylinder73 of leafy, outbulging spray masses, terminating in a noble dome25, that may be recognized while yet far off upheaved against the sky above the dark bed of pines and firs and spruces, the king of all conifers, not only in size but in sublime majesty74 of behavior and port. I found a black, charred75 stump76 about thirty feet in diameter and eighty or ninety feet high—a venerable, impressive old monument of a tree that in its prime may have been the monarch77 of the grove; seedlings78 and saplings growing up here and there, thrifty79 and hopeful, giving no hint of the dying out of the species. Not any unfavorable change of climate, but only fire, threatens the existence of these noblest of God’s trees. Sorry I was not able to get a count of the old monument’s annual rings.
Camp this evening at Hazel Green, on the broad back of the dividing ridge26 near our old camp-ground when we were on the way up the mountains in the spring. This ridge has the finest sugar-pine groves80 and finest manzanita and ceanothus thickets81 I have yet found on all this wonderful summer journey.
September 18. Made a long descent on the[Pg 262] south side of the divide to Brown’s Flat, the grand forests now left above us, though the sugar pine still flourishes fairly well, and with the yellow pine, libocedrus, and Douglas spruce, makes forests that would be considered most wonderful in any other part of the world.
The Indians here, with great concern, pointed to an old garden patch on the flat and told us to keep away from it. Perhaps some of their tribe are buried here.
September 19. Camped this evening at Smith’s Mill, on the first broad mountain bench or plateau reached in ascending82 the range, where pines grow large enough for good lumber83. Here wheat, apples, peaches, and grapes grow, and we were treated to wine and apples. The wine I didn’t like, but Mr. Delaney and the Indian driver and the shepherd seemed to think the stuff divine. Compared to sparkling Sierra water fresh from the heavens, it seemed a dull, muddy, stupid drink. But the apples, best of fruits, how delicious they were—fit for gods or men.
On the way down from Brown’s Flat we stopped at Bower84 Cave, and I spent an hour in it—one of the most novel and interesting of all Nature’s underground mansions85. Plenty of sunlight pours into it through the leaves of the[Pg 263] four maple86 trees growing in its mouth, illuminating87 its clear, calm pool and marble chambers,—a charming place, ravishingly beautiful, but the accessible parts of the walls sadly disfigured with names of vandals.
September 20. The weather still golden and calm, but hot. We are now in the foot-hills, and all the conifers are left behind, except the gray Sabine pine. Camped at the Dutch Boy’s Ranch, where there are extensive barley88 fields now showing nothing save dusty stubble.
September 21. A terribly hot, dusty, sunburned day, and as nothing was to be gained by loitering where the flock could find nothing to eat save thorny89 twigs90 and chaparral, we made a long drive, and before sundown reached the home ranch on the yellow San Joaquin plain.
September 22. The sheep were let out of the corral one by one, this morning, and counted, and strange to say, after all their adventurous91 wanderings in bewildering rocks and brush and streams, scattered by bears, poisoned by azalea, kalmia, alkali, all are accounted for. Of the two thousand and fifty that left the corral in the spring lean and weak, two thousand and twenty-five have returned fat and strong. The losses are: ten killed by bears, one by a rattlesnake, one that had to be killed[Pg 264] after it had broken its leg on a boulder92 slope, and one that ran away in blind terror on being accidentally separated from the flock,—thirteen all told. Of the other twelve doomed93 never to return, three were sold to ranchmen and nine were made camp mutton.
Here ends my forever memorable94 first High Sierra excursion. I have crossed the Range of Light, surely the brightest and best of all the Lord has built; and rejoicing in its glory, I gladly, gratefully, hopefully pray I may see it again.
点击
收听单词发音
收听单词发音 |
1
wilderness
|
|
| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
2
joints
|
|
| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
3
denudation
|
|
| n.剥下；裸露；滥伐；剥蚀 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
4
inevitable
|
|
| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
5
harmoniously
|
|
| 和谐地，调和地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
6
concealed
|
|
| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
7
humbly
|
|
| adv. 恭顺地，谦卑地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
8
ranch
|
|
| n.大牧场，大农场 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
9
glacier
|
|
| n.冰川，冰河 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
10
perfectly
|
|
| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
11
steadily
|
|
| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
12
fully
|
|
| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
13
hospitable
|
|
| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
14
invincibly
|
|
| adv.难战胜地，无敌地 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
15
determined
|
|
| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
16
herd
|
|
| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
17
plunged
|
|
| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
18
mere
|
|
| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
19
rim
|
|
| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
20
lateral
|
|
| adj.侧面的，旁边的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
21
scattered
|
|
| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
22
graceful
|
|
| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
23
swelling
|
|
| n.肿胀 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
24
domes
|
|
| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
25
dome
|
|
| n.圆屋顶，拱顶 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
26
ridge
|
|
| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
27
ridges
|
|
| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
28
pointed
|
|
| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
29
aster
|
|
| n.紫菀属植物 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
30
dwarf
|
|
| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
31
brink
|
|
| n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘，边沿 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
32
Portuguese
|
|
| n.葡萄牙人；葡萄牙语 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
33
elevation
|
|
| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
34
boggy
|
|
| adj.沼泽多的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
35
boughs
|
|
| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
36
creek
|
|
| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
37
crumbling
|
|
| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
38
furrowed
|
|
| v.犁田，开沟( furrow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
39
cones
|
|
| n.（人眼）圆锥细胞；圆锥体( cone的名词复数 )；球果；圆锥形东西；（盛冰淇淋的）锥形蛋卷筒 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
40
hardiest
|
|
| 能吃苦耐劳的，坚强的( hardy的最高级 )； （植物等）耐寒的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
41
vitality
|
|
| n.活力，生命力，效力 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
42
tassels
|
|
| n.穗( tassel的名词复数 )；流苏状物；（植物的）穗；玉蜀黍的穗状雄花v.抽穗， （玉米）长穗须( tassel的第三人称单数 )；使抽穗， （为了使作物茁壮生长）摘去穗状雄花；用流苏装饰 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
44
botanists
|
|
| n.植物学家，研究植物的人( botanist的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
45
laden
|
|
| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
46
erect
|
|
| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
47
beads
|
|
| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
48
industrious
|
|
| adj.勤劳的，刻苦的，奋发的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
49
swirling
|
|
| v.旋转，打旋( swirl的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
50
ornamented
|
|
| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
51
conspicuous
|
|
| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
52
lichen
|
|
| n.地衣, 青苔 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
53
cascade
|
|
| n.小瀑布，喷流；层叠；vi.成瀑布落下 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
54
crimson
|
|
| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
55
aisles
|
|
| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
56
specimens
|
|
| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
57
sublime
|
|
| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
58
mellow
|
|
| adj.柔和的；熟透的；v.变柔和；(使)成熟 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
59
starry
|
|
| adj.星光照耀的, 闪亮的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
60
spiring
|
|
| v.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
61
loath
|
|
| adj.不愿意的；勉强的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
62
grove
|
|
| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
63
colossal
|
|
| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
64
unity
|
|
| n.团结，联合，统一；和睦，协调 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
65
shafts
|
|
| n.轴( shaft的名词复数 )；（箭、高尔夫球棒等的）杆；通风井；一阵（疼痛、害怕等） | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
66
fluted
|
|
| a.有凹槽的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
67
crooked
|
|
| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
68
rugged
|
|
| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
69
zigzagging
|
|
| v.弯弯曲曲地走路，曲折地前进( zigzag的现在分词 )；盘陀 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
70
dense
|
|
| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
71
bossy
|
|
| adj.爱发号施令的，作威作福的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
72
varied
|
|
| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
73
cylinder
|
|
| n.圆筒，柱(面)，汽缸 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
74
majesty
|
|
| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
75
charred
|
|
| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
76
stump
|
|
| n.残株，烟蒂，讲演台；v.砍断，蹒跚而走 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
77
monarch
|
|
| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
78
seedlings
|
|
| n.刚出芽的幼苗( seedling的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
79
thrifty
|
|
| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
80
groves
|
|
| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
81
thickets
|
|
| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
82
ascending
|
|
| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
83
lumber
|
|
| n.木材，木料；v.以破旧东西堆满；伐木；笨重移动 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
84
bower
|
|
| n.凉亭，树荫下凉快之处；闺房；v.荫蔽 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
85
mansions
|
|
| n.宅第，公馆，大厦( mansion的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
86
maple
|
|
| n.槭树，枫树，槭木 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
87
illuminating
|
|
| a.富于启发性的，有助阐明的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
88
barley
|
|
| n.大麦，大麦粒 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
89
thorny
|
|
| adj.多刺的，棘手的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
90
twigs
|
|
| 细枝，嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
91
adventurous
|
|
| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
92
boulder
|
|
| n.巨砾；卵石，圆石 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
93
doomed
|
|
| 命定的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
|
94
memorable
|
|
| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
参考例句： |
|
|
|
| 欢迎访问英文小说网 |