But for all that indiarubber-like infantile irrepressibility, I have seen a little childish disaster here. It was a fall and a bruise11 and a scratched face that meant little, after all; but the howls of that child were worthy12 of an occasion infinitely13[121] more tragical14. It were not worth dwelling15 upon, except that it opened out some rustic16 Devon talk, when a son of the soil set that injured innocent upon his feet again and said: “Well done! My eymers: ’av ’ee valled down?”
With so much sympathy on tap, my young martyr17 began to pity himself infinitely, and sobbed18 the more. “Did ’ur, then?” said that kindly19 comforter: “puir liddle bye, puir liddle bleed. You ’m proper ’urted yo’self, have ’ee. Where’s his mammy, then? Where do ’ee live tu? Coom ’ee up-along an’ zittee on this zeat,” and much else.
The neighbourhood of these exploited seaside towns are, however, not the places, as a general rule, in which to look for such fine survivals[122] of old Devon talk. The villages and the hamlets are the last homes of it, and, generally speaking, the only times when an indweller hears the Doric is when a servant, fresh-caught from “Dartymoor” or other remote district, comes into residence. Then, indeed, one hears strange phrases. Then you learn, if you did not know it before, that in Devon all girls are “maads” and all boys “byes,” large or small; or I should say, in the Devon tongue, “gert” or “liddle.” In Devon most things that are thorough, or difficult, or to be expressed in terms of bigness or admiration21 are “proper,” and this expression, among some others, is not, like much else of the rustic talk, obsolescent22. It is, indeed, common in towns, and seems, like the Devonian soft burring inflection, to be, after a period of disuse, coming back again.
Anything very large is thus said to be “proper gert”; a difficult task is still a “proper chore”; and—although to one not used to the West the propriety23 of it is not evident—a person helplessly intoxicated24 is “proper drunk,” or “durnk” may even be said; for (as in “gert” for “great”) your true West countryman will always, whenever humanly possible, depose25 the letter “r” from its proper place. He will overcome majestic26 difficulties in this linguistic27 way, and will even “urn” instead of “run.”
A Devonian never lives “at” a place, only “tu” it; baskets to him are either “flaskets” or “maunds”; he has a staggering way of saying “Well done!” as an exclamation28 of surprise,[123] even on the most tragical occasions, so that he has seemed sometimes, to strangers who are not acquainted with this peculiarity29, to be callously30 superhuman or less than human; which is a libel on the kindly race.
Babbacombe—the real Babbacombe of the beach, not the strange new thing on the cliff-top—is the tiniest of places, with the “Cary Arms” inn, a little stone fishing-pier, a few boats, a fortuitous concourse of lobster-pots, a windlass or two, and a general air of being a natural growth, as indeed it is. It seems remote from the evil passions of the world, but for all that seeming, it was the scene of a dreadful tragedy in 1884, when Miss Keyse, an elderly lady who lived in a picturesquely32 thatched cottage on the very margin33 of the beach, was murdered by John Lee, her manservant. He was a young footman, a native of Kingskerswell. The motive34 was said to have been revenge for the reduction of his wages by sixpence a week. The whole thing is sordid36, and one had rather not mention it at all; only the notoriety of the case compels. Lee saturated37 the rooms with petroleum38 and set fire to the house, in the hope of concealing39 the evidence of his crime, but fortunately the fire was extinguished before it had made sufficient progress, and the marks on the body were discovered and Lee arrested. He was tried, found guilty, sentenced to death, and actually brought to the scaffold at Exeter Gaol42; but there the strange and unparalleled circumstances occurred which saved[124] him from execution and condemned43 him to lifelong imprisonment44 instead. Three several times the trap-door on which the condemned man stood refused to fall when the bolt was drawn45, although each time, when he was led away, and it was tried, it worked properly. After the third attempt, it was decided46, in the interest of the official spectators and of the wretched criminal himself, to prolong the harrowing scene no longer, and Lee was removed to his cell and a report sent to the Home Secretary who first respited47 him and then commuted48 the sentence to imprisonment for life.
These are supposed to be materialistic49 times, when everything is held to have some discoverable natural cause, and the failure of the trap is explained by the wood of it being swollen50, and jamming every time a weight was placed upon it. But the affair was so remarkable51, that very naturally the whole country was deeply stirred. Those who were present never lightly dismissed the subject, and for one’s self, it seems very like God’s protest against man’s injustice52. But we, who were not present and are not thrown off our balance by the dreadful experience, must consider that in the long history of the world many innocent persons have been hanged, and Providence53 stirred no finger on their behalf, while many assassins have escaped the Avenger54 of Blood. It should be said that local opinion has always been strong in the belief of Lee’s guilt41.
The house, one is glad to say, exists no longer. Only an outhouse which belonged to it remains55,[125] and the rest of the site is dense56 with trees and undergrowth. In spite of repeated rumours57 of his release, Lee is still in prison, nor does it appear likely that he will ever be permitted to go at liberty again.
One of the most famous spots on this coast is that to which we now come. Anstey’s Cove40 has been described and pictured times innumerable, and I—ah! me—am going to do it again. The way to the Cove lies in between the inevitable58 dead walls of the district: these the high and solid ones built by Bishop59 Phillpotts of Exeter some fifty years since, to enclose the grounds of his villa20 of “Bishopstowe” and keep the public out of all possible glimpses of this paradise: highly characteristic of a bishop.
These walls must have been extremely ugly when newly built, but nature, more kindly than the dignified60 clergy61, has toned down the rawness, assuaged62 the harsh lines and set a green mantle63 over the bishop’s walls, so that they are now stony64 cliffs, lichened65 and moss-grown, rich in tiny ferns, and overhung by tall trees.
The bishop was, like many of the cloth, a man of sarcastic66 wit; for when a lady, visiting him at Bishopstowe, gushingly67 exclaimed how like Torquay was to Switzerland, he retorted very neatly68 with, “Yes, only there you have mountains and no sea, and here we have sea and no mountains.”
Anstey’s Cove is the same as ever: one of the few places that have not changed of late years. Still the path leads down ruggedly69 to the little[126] beach of big white marble pebbles70, still the hollow is filled with a wild ferny brake and with old thorn-trees, hung, like the liana-choked forest trees of South America, with tangled71 strands72 of wild clematis. And although the original Thomas, who, half a century ago supplied picnics with necessaries, has long since assumed his crown and robe of white up above, the poetic73 notice-board written for him still survives, and Thomases of a later generation are to be found in their wooden shanty74 on the beach, where they continue the traditions—or some of them—of:
“Picnics supplied with hot water and tea
At a nice little house down by the sea;
[127]
The neatest of pleasure-boats let out on hire;
Fishing Tackle as good as you can desire;
Bathing Machines for Ladies are kept,
With Towels and Gowns, all quite correct.
Thomas is the man who provides everything:
And also teaches Young People to swim.”
Some enthusiastic scholar has even done this into Latin, and the result is seen on the wooden walls of the shanty.
White limestone78 pinnacles79 shut in the eastern side of the Cove, and shade off into pink and red and grey. On the western side a cliff path goes winding round the headland of Hope’s Nose and Daddy Hole Plain. The Hole there is a rift80 in the plateau, and “Daddy,” the affectionate name bestowed81 upon the Devil by local folk, who perhaps did not stop to consider when they did it that they thus proclaimed themselves children of Satan.
On the inland road to Torquay is that famous place, Kent’s Cavern82, whose prehistoric83 contents led men of science to wholly revise their ideas of the world’s history.
The situation of Kent’s Cavern, although only a mile from the centre of Torquay and in the Wellswood suburb, is still semi-rural. A limestone bluff84, shaggy with bushes, trees and ivy85, rises abruptly86 to the right of the road, and in the side of it is a locked wooden door, upon which you bang and kick for the guide, who is guide, proprietor87, and explorer in one. When he is not guiding, he is engaged in digging and turning over the wet red[128] earth, alone in the dank lonesomeness with the spirits of prehistoric man and the bones of the extinct animals that ranged the valleys of Torquay when the world was young. The freehold of the famous cavern which ever since 1824 has been the theme of more or less learned geological treatises88 was recently sold at auction89 for a trifling90 sum; not to an institution or a scientific society but to the guide, who has conducted many geological pundits91 over it, and by consequence has acquired an air of greater omniscience92 than the most completely all-knowing of those not remarkably93 modest men of science.
times is an error, for evidences exist of its being known[129] through the Middle Ages, down to our own time. The prehistoric remains, and not the cavern itself, are the modern finds, and that there were visitors and curiosity-hunters in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries is evident in the names scratched on the rocky walls, and still visible through the slowly growing film of stalactite. Thus “William Petre, 1571,” writes himself, by the mere94 fact of his scribbling95 here, ancestor of the ’Arries of to-day, and of the same glorious company is one who boldly inscribes96 himself “Robert Hedges of Ireland, Feb. 20, 1688.” This was no Irishman, but a Devonshire yeoman from a farm or hamlet called “Ireland,” on the other side of Dartmouth.
It remained for modern times to thoroughly97 explore this natural rift in the limestone. There were several very potent98 reasons why this should not have been done before. Perhaps a little dread31 of the unknown was partly the cause; geological science was in its infancy99, and in this then solitary100 neighbourhood there was no one leisured enough, or sufficiently101 interested, to investigate.
It was in 1824 Mr. Northmoore first broke into the stalagmite floor which to a depth of three inches formed a continuous covering, like concrete, to the red clay and its deposits of flint implements102, charred103 bones, and relics104 of the hyæna, mammoth105, reindeer106, bison, bear, wild cat, and a host of other animals utterly107 extinct.
Above these relics of an almost incredible antiquity108 was a layer of black earth containing remains of the British and Roman periods, odds109 and[130] ends of whetstones, spindle-wheels, bone awls and chisels110, amber111 beads112, bronze rings, pieces of Samian pottery113, and cakes of smelted114 copper115, intermingled with shells of sea-fish and bones of pigs, sheep, rats, rabbits, and birds; the discarded things of periods of occupation ranging from two thousand years ago; but, compared with the deposits of from ten to twenty thousand years earlier, beneath the stalagmite flooring, things merely of yester-year.
Northmoore’s discoveries, however, were few in comparison with those of the Rev35. J. MacEnery, who, as Roman Catholic chaplain at Tor Abbey, had abundant leisure, and devoted116 three years, from 1825, to explorations here. He saw a sight that would have doubtless roused a dentist to wildest enthusiasm. Nothing less than “the finest fossil teeth I had ever seen.” He was followed by Pengelly, and by the long series of researches by the British Association, extending from 1864 to 1880, which resulted in the almost complete stripping of the cavern; so that we who explore Kent’s Cavern, the home of Prehistoric Man, to-day are very much in the position of visitors to a house that has had the brokers117 in, or a museum whose exhibits have been nearly all removed.
But there are still remains discovered which recall Pengelly’s description of the cave being tenanted at the same period both by men and wild animals; the cave-men going forth118 to fish or hunt and the hyænas looking in during their absence for anything worth picking up. And there are things[131] belonging to remote geological periods which are of those discoveries that first upset the chronology of the Book of Genesis and gave staggering shocks to believers in the absolute literal accuracy of the Bible: teeth of wild animals, not merely in the deposits of the floor, but embedded119 in the limestone rock overhead. Who shall put a date to these?
And here, at our elbow all the while, is the guide, complacently120 pointing to all these things; lighting121 flares122 which disclose the roof, and playing scales with sticks on metallic-sounding stalactites that have been forming with incredible slowness, perhaps an inch in a thousand years, just to be made a show of. The best of all the stalactites is broken. It began to be formed when the world was young. It grew and grew with the drops of water, charged with lime, percolating123 from the roof, and being met by its fellow stalagmite with equal slowness rising from the floor. And stalactite and stalagmite had nearly met, and only wanted another three or four centuries to bridge the remaining interval124 of an eighth of an inch, when a visitor, falling accidentally against them, broke them off!
“What did you say?” one, with pardonable curiosity, asks the guide, and “What could you say?” says he; and when you consider it, what is there that would be equal to that tremendous occasion?
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1
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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jolts
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| （使）摇动， （使）震惊( jolt的名词复数 ) | |
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machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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eminent
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| adj.显赫的，杰出的，有名的，优良的 | |
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middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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whooping
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| 发嗬嗬声的，发咳声的 | |
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apparatus
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| n.装置，器械；器具，设备 | |
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bruise
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| n.青肿，挫伤；伤痕；vt.打青；挫伤 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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tragical
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| adj. 悲剧的, 悲剧性的 | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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martyr
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| n.烈士，殉难者；vt.杀害，折磨，牺牲 | |
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18
sobbed
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| 哭泣，啜泣( sob的过去式和过去分词 )； 哭诉，呜咽地说 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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obsolescent
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| adj.过时的，难管束的 | |
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propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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intoxicated
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| 喝醉的，极其兴奋的 | |
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depose
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| vt.免职；宣誓作证 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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linguistic
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| adj.语言的，语言学的 | |
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exclamation
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| n.感叹号，惊呼，惊叹词 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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callously
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dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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picturesquely
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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motive
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| n.动机，目的；adv.发动的，运动的 | |
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rev
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| v.发动机旋转，加快速度 | |
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sordid
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| adj.肮脏的，不干净的，卑鄙的，暗淡的 | |
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saturated
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| a.饱和的，充满的 | |
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petroleum
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| n.原油，石油 | |
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concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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guilt
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| n.犯罪；内疚；过失，罪责 | |
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gaol
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| n.(jail)监狱；(不加冠词)监禁；vt.使…坐牢 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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respited
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| v.延期（respite的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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commuted
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| 通勤( commute的过去式和过去分词 )； 减（刑）； 代偿 | |
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materialistic
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| a.唯物主义的，物质享乐主义的 | |
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swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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51
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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injustice
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| n.非正义，不公正，不公平，侵犯（别人的）权利 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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avenger
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| n. 复仇者 | |
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55
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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57
rumours
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| n.传闻( rumour的名词复数 )；风闻；谣言；谣传 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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62
assuaged
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| v.减轻( assuage的过去式和过去分词 )；缓和；平息；使安静 | |
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mantle
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| n.斗篷，覆罩之物，罩子；v.罩住，覆盖，脸红 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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lichened
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| adj.长满地衣的，长青苔的 | |
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sarcastic
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| adj.讥讽的，讽刺的，嘲弄的 | |
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gushingly
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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ruggedly
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| 险峻地； 粗暴地； （面容）多皱纹地； 粗线条地 | |
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70
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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strands
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| n.（线、绳、金属线、毛发等的）股( strand的名词复数 )；缕；海洋、湖或河的)岸；（观点、计划、故事等的）部份v.使滞留，使搁浅( strand的第三人称单数 ) | |
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poetic
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| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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shanty
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| n.小屋，棚屋；船工号子 | |
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75
crabs
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| n.蟹( crab的名词复数 )；阴虱寄生病；蟹肉v.捕蟹( crab的第三人称单数 ) | |
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76
lobsters
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| 龙虾( lobster的名词复数 )； 龙虾肉 | |
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77
salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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rift
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| n.裂口，隙缝，切口；v.裂开，割开，渗入 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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cavern
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| n.洞穴，大山洞 | |
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prehistoric
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| adj.（有记载的）历史以前的，史前的，古老的 | |
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84
bluff
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| v.虚张声势，用假象骗人；n.虚张声势，欺骗 | |
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ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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88
treatises
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| n.专题著作，专题论文，专著( treatise的名词复数 ) | |
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auction
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| n.拍卖；拍卖会；vt.拍卖 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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pundits
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| n.某一学科的权威，专家( pundit的名词复数 ) | |
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omniscience
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| n.全知，全知者，上帝 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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scribbling
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| n.乱涂[写]胡[乱]写的文章[作品]v.潦草的书写( scribble的现在分词 )；乱画；草草地写；匆匆记下 | |
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inscribes
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的第三人称单数 ) | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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potent
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| adj.强有力的，有权势的；有效力的 | |
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infancy
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| n.婴儿期；幼年期；初期 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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102
implements
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| n.工具( implement的名词复数 )；家具；手段；[法律]履行（契约等）v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 )；执行；贯彻；使生效 | |
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103
charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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mammoth
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| n.长毛象；adj.长毛象似的，巨大的 | |
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106
reindeer
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| n.驯鹿 | |
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107
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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odds
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| n.让步，机率，可能性，比率；胜败优劣之别 | |
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chisels
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| n.凿子，錾子( chisel的名词复数 )；口凿 | |
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amber
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| n.琥珀；琥珀色；adj.琥珀制的 | |
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beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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pottery
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| n.陶器，陶器场 | |
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114
smelted
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| v.熔炼，提炼（矿石）( smelt的过去式和过去分词 )；合演( costar的过去式和过去分词 )；闻到；嗅出 | |
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115
copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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116
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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117
brokers
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| n.（股票、外币等）经纪人( broker的名词复数 )；中间人；代理商；（订合同的）中人v.做掮客（或中人等）( broker的第三人称单数 )；作为权力经纪人进行谈判；以中间人等身份安排… | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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embedded
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| a.扎牢的 | |
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complacently
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| adv. 满足地, 自满地, 沾沾自喜地 | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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122
flares
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| n.喇叭裤v.（使）闪耀( flare的第三人称单数 )；（使）（船舷）外倾；（使）鼻孔张大；（使）（衣裙、酒杯等）呈喇叭形展开 | |
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123
percolating
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| n.渗透v.滤( percolate的现在分词 )；渗透；（思想等）渗透；渗入 | |
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interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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