Being a good deal more recent than Torquay, Paignton is not so stucco-smothered; and its villas8 and the buildings of its very busy and smart chief street are largely in brick and terra-cotta.
The exceptionally beautiful church, which, however, is sadly hidden away amid these later developments, is due to Paignton having been the site of a Bishop9’s palace. A few ruins only of that palace remain, with a romantic-looking tower, in which according to a picturesque10 legend, Miles Coverdale translated the Bible.
At the secluded13 sands of Goodrington and Elbury Cove11, that look perhaps their best from the trains that hurry by, the traveller bids farewell to the red rocks of Devon, and comes into the regions of limestone14 and slate12. The way leads on to Brixham: the railway itself proceeding15 to Kingswear, opposite Dartmouth, and throwing off at “Churston Junction” a little two-mile branch to the heights above Brixham town. All day and every day a short train shuttlecocks those two miles, the engine pulling one way and pushing another. If there be any three persons better qualified16 above their fellows to speak of monotony, they must surely be the engine-driver, stoker, and guard of this train.
The little terminus, so high above the town,[144] smells like a fish-shop, for Brixham is pre-eminently in Devon the place of fish, and great trainloads go forth17 every day. You look astonishingly down upon roof-tops from this place.
Down there is Brixham, perched with seeming precariousness18 along the steeply sloping sides of the hills overlooking the pool that forms its[145] crowded harbour. To those who have never seen the fisher towns of Cornwall it is an amazing place: those who know the Cornish coast realise that this is the first of the true West Country fishing harbours, and it seems to them to have strayed over into Devon by mistake. To speak by the card, the “Brixham” of modern speech is strictly19 “Brixham Quay2,” and Higher Brixham, away up-along, on the high table-land, is the real original Brixham; but Brixham Quay long since supplanted20 the original place in importance. It is by far the largest and busiest fishing-port in Devon, and as different from Torquay in character as chalk proverbially is from cheese, marching-boots from patent-leathers, salt from sugar, or any other picturesque and striking antithesis21 you can think of. In Torquay you commonly hear Brixham spoken of as a “dirty, stinking22 hole” and by similar terms, the reverse of endearing, but while we may not deny it to be that, it is that and something more. It is natural, and characteristic of the real old seafaring and fishing life of this coast, and Torquay, however delightful23, is not. Torquay and all “seaside resorts” are excrescences, and utterly24 uncharacteristic of the real indigenous25 life. No artist would choose to paint or sketch26 Torquay and its delightful but pictorially27 impossible villas, and smart but artistically29 desolating30 visitors; but Brixham is an artistic28 paradise. It is dirty but natural, smelly but picturesque at every turn. An excellent opportunity offers here, had we the leisure, for a[146] philosophic31 disquisition on the delightfully32 picturesque qualities of dirt and untidiness, and the negation33, artistically, of order and sanitation34. Because of its wallowing in fish-offal and its generally rough-and-ready ways, Brixham is no place for the visitor, as generally understood; but artists rejoice in it and its ways.
It must by no means be understood that the houses of Brixham are picturesque. They are nothing of the kind, being simply gaunt, stark35 unlovely structures of cob, or stone, or lath and plaster, as the case may be, generally stuccoed and slate-roofed; with a resultant effect of greyness. But they are arrayed in such amazing tiers of terraces, one above the other, and are huddled36 so nearly together, and hang so closely over the harbour that the general effect is highly picturesque.
Brixham changes little, and appears to be very much as P. H. Gosse, visiting it in 1853, found it; “close, mean and dirty,” with “refinements of filth” which he had never seen paralleled. One feels quite sorry for that distinguished37 naturalist38; but on the shore, at low water, under the stones, he found Trochus ziziphinus numerously, which seems to have been some consolation39. One feels irresistibly40 tempted41 to suggest that, had he stayed at Brixham the night, he might also have found pulex irritans, at the least of it, which would not have been so satisfactory.
It was to this fishy42 place that William, Prince of[147] Orange, came on November 5th, 1688, intent upon saving the liberties of England from extinction43 at the hands of his bigoted44 father-in-law, James the Second. The “Protestant Deliverer” came invited and welcomed by the majority of Englishmen, for the country was so shiftless that it could not make out to save itself; and, because of the mutual45 jealousies46 that would have forbidden the success of any rising headed by one of our own, must needs call in the cold, silent Dutchman, whom none loved. One’s sympathies are distinctly with the debonnair Duke of Monmouth, whose rebellion had ended so disastrously47, three years earlier.
The Hollander preparations for this invasion were great, and spread over a considerable period of time; and there was, moreover, no secret made of them. The flotilla gathered together for the enterprise consisted of fifty men-o’-war, and over five hundred transports, carrying an army of fourteen thousand men. It was thus not very much the inferior in strength to that of the great Armada itself. It waited long in the harbour of Helvoetsluys, attendant upon the wind, which had been blowing steadily48 in an unfavourable direction. At last, October 16th, it changed from west to east, and the hour seemed to have come. The prince took leave of the States-General, which wept copiously49 over him; while he remained, as was his wont50, grave and phlegmatic51, only recommending the princess to their care, should anything happen to him.
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The great fleet sailed on the 19th, but the next day the wind changed to north, and then worked round with violent gales52 from the west, so that, in distress53, they were obliged to put back to port. No vessels54 were lost, and only one man was drowned, but five hundred horses died.
The States at once gave orders for the replenishing of all stores, the princess, for her part, ordered prayers four times daily, and at last, on the evening of November 1st, the fleet again put forth, with an east wind. The original idea was to have landed in the mouth of the Humber, and it must have seemed, to many of the Englishmen who accompanied the expedition, an ill-omen that they were carried down channel into that identical West Country which had proved so fatal to Monmouth.
The English fleet was assembled, watchful55, at the mouth of the Thames, but unable, in the teeth of the east wind, to emerge; and saw, with helplessness, the great concourse of ships go, full sail, down channel. Despite the fears of those who looked upon the west as ominous56 of ill, the elements were thus working for the success of William, who thus, unchallenged, arrived off the coast of Devon. Arrived there, the more timorous57 began to fear being carried too far west to Plymouth, or beyond, from which the intended march to the capital, along the heavy roads of autumn, would be a toilsome and hazardous58 undertaking59.
But all things made for success, and, arrived in[149] Torbay on the night of November 4th, the easterly wind ceased and changed to soft breezes from the south. The next morning the landing began, in this harbour of Brixham. It was November 5th, the auspicious60 anniversary of the famous failure of the Popish “Gunpowder Treason and Plot,” and the bells of Brixham rang out joyously61, to celebrate History made, and History in the making.
Brixham Quay was then just a quay, and little else. The crowded houses of this later age were represented only by a few scattered62 fish-cellars and sheds, and in place of the stone piers63 and artificial harbour we now see was merely a pool formed by nature, unassisted by art.
Many legends of this landing survive at Brixham. One tells how the prince, standing64 in the boat that brought him towards the shore, exclaimed in the best English he could command,[150] to the people who crowded the quay, “Mine goot beoble, I mean you goot, I am come here for your goot—for all your goots”; but I think that is suspiciously like one of the famous Ben Trovato’s stories, and it certainly has been told of other aliens coming to these shores. The legends then go on to tell how the prince asked if he were welcome, and being assured of the fact replied that, if he were really welcome, they should come and fetch him; which means no more than that there were then no stairs to the water, and that, if a fine gentleman wished to land dry and clean, he must needs be carried ashore65.
One Peter Varwell, a fisherman, described as a short, thick-set little man, then jumped into the water and carried the Deliverer to land. We are not told how the Duke of Schomberg and Bishop Burnet, among other great ones, came ashore; I am afraid they had to hoof66 it through the water and the fish-offal. But when Burnet did set foot upon the quay, the prince, turning to him and taking his hand, asked if he did not believe now, more than ever, in predestination. This was by way of a gentle rebuke67 to that distinguished Churchman’s want of faith during the preparations for the expedition, when at every mischance he had dejectedly said the enterprise seemed to be predestined to failure.
点击收听单词发音
1 populous | |
adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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2 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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3 extraneous | |
adj.体外的;外来的;外部的 | |
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4 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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5 pier | |
n.码头;桥墩,桥柱;[建]窗间壁,支柱 | |
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6 weird | |
adj.古怪的,离奇的;怪诞的,神秘而可怕的 | |
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7 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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8 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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9 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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10 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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11 cove | |
n.小海湾,小峡谷 | |
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12 slate | |
n.板岩,石板,石片,石板色,候选人名单;adj.暗蓝灰色的,含板岩的;vt.用石板覆盖,痛打,提名,预订 | |
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13 secluded | |
adj.与世隔绝的;隐退的;偏僻的v.使隔开,使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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14 limestone | |
n.石灰石 | |
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15 proceeding | |
n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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16 qualified | |
adj.合格的,有资格的,胜任的,有限制的 | |
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17 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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18 precariousness | |
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19 strictly | |
adv.严厉地,严格地;严密地 | |
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20 supplanted | |
把…排挤掉,取代( supplant的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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21 antithesis | |
n.对立;相对 | |
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22 stinking | |
adj.臭的,烂醉的,讨厌的v.散发出恶臭( stink的现在分词 );发臭味;名声臭;糟透 | |
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23 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
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24 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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25 indigenous | |
adj.土产的,土生土长的,本地的 | |
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26 sketch | |
n.草图;梗概;素描;v.素描;概述 | |
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27 pictorially | |
绘画般地 | |
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28 artistic | |
adj.艺术(家)的,美术(家)的;善于艺术创作的 | |
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29 artistically | |
adv.艺术性地 | |
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30 desolating | |
毁坏( desolate的现在分词 ); 极大地破坏; 使沮丧; 使痛苦 | |
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31 philosophic | |
adj.哲学的,贤明的 | |
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32 delightfully | |
大喜,欣然 | |
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33 negation | |
n.否定;否认 | |
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34 sanitation | |
n.公共卫生,环境卫生,卫生设备 | |
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35 stark | |
adj.荒凉的;严酷的;完全的;adv.完全地 | |
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36 huddled | |
挤在一起(huddle的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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37 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
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38 naturalist | |
n.博物学家(尤指直接观察动植物者) | |
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39 consolation | |
n.安慰,慰问 | |
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40 irresistibly | |
adv.无法抵抗地,不能自持地;极为诱惑人地 | |
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41 tempted | |
v.怂恿(某人)干不正当的事;冒…的险(tempt的过去分词) | |
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42 fishy | |
adj. 值得怀疑的 | |
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43 extinction | |
n.熄灭,消亡,消灭,灭绝,绝种 | |
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44 bigoted | |
adj.固执己见的,心胸狭窄的 | |
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45 mutual | |
adj.相互的,彼此的;共同的,共有的 | |
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46 jealousies | |
n.妒忌( jealousy的名词复数 );妒羡 | |
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47 disastrously | |
ad.灾难性地 | |
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48 steadily | |
adv.稳定地;不变地;持续地 | |
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49 copiously | |
adv.丰富地,充裕地 | |
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50 wont | |
adj.习惯于;v.习惯;n.习惯 | |
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51 phlegmatic | |
adj.冷静的,冷淡的,冷漠的,无活力的 | |
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52 gales | |
龙猫 | |
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53 distress | |
n.苦恼,痛苦,不舒适;不幸;vt.使悲痛 | |
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54 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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55 watchful | |
adj.注意的,警惕的 | |
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56 ominous | |
adj.不祥的,不吉的,预兆的,预示的 | |
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57 timorous | |
adj.胆怯的,胆小的 | |
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58 hazardous | |
adj.(有)危险的,冒险的;碰运气的 | |
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59 undertaking | |
n.保证,许诺,事业 | |
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60 auspicious | |
adj.吉利的;幸运的,吉兆的 | |
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61 joyously | |
ad.快乐地, 高兴地 | |
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62 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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63 piers | |
n.水上平台( pier的名词复数 );(常设有娱乐场所的)突堤;柱子;墙墩 | |
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64 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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65 ashore | |
adv.在(向)岸上,上岸 | |
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66 hoof | |
n.(马,牛等的)蹄 | |
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67 rebuke | |
v.指责,非难,斥责 [反]praise | |
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