A great deal of the supreme16 beauty of the Dart is due to the dense17 woods that cover the bold hillsides of either shore and are reflected with solemn loveliness in the tide. The Anchor Rock, prominent in mid-stream, lends its more or less authentic18 story to guide-book students, for legend tells us that the scolding wives of the community were landed upon it and given ample leisure to repent20; although the very name of this solitary21 crag would lead the student to suppose that it was originally the spot whereon some early hermit22, or anchorite, voluntarily secluded23 himself.
By crossing the river to Greenaway, and walking through woods and across meadows, the explorer comes, in a scrambly way, to a place very rarely seen by fleeting24 tourists. This is Galmpton—or “Gaamton” as the Devonshire folk call it—hidden away in a lakelike creek3. Here the stranger finds an unexpected scene of industry, for in this nook, where the tide lazily rolls up and as lazily slides down, with the ooze25 and scum, and chance leaves and twigs26 voyaging back and forth27, is a busy shipbuilding yard.
They do not build ocean liners at Galmpton, but they have had for some seventy years past a very fine steady business in the building of trawlers for the Brixham and Lowestoft fisheries;[184] and sometimes a smart sailing yacht leaves these sheds. Here, for example, as I write, a teak-built yacht of one hundred tons, to cost £4000 is on the stocks, and will leave Galmpton fully28 rigged. The average output of this yard is twelve trawlers a year, and it gives employment to between sixty and seventy men, who live mostly at Dittisham, taking boat to and from work each morning and evening.
Aish, that spot historic in connection with the landing of the Protestant Defender29 in 1688, is not so easily discovered by the stranger in these gates, and its very remoteness was its chief recommendation in the times when it became historic. It is reached most easily by breaking the steamboat trip up the Dart at Duncannon Quay, which is also the landing-place for Stoke Gabriel, tucked away in its own shy creek. Stoke Gabriel is the least visited and most primitive30 place on the Dart, and headquarters of the salmon-fishery; as the nets, drying on long poles, and the strange jerseyed and booted figures of the fisherfolk proclaim. With every tide the salt water comes to fill the picturesque creek of Stoke Gabriel and to make a mirror for the woods to view their own loveliness, and with every ebb31 it flows out again in a murmuring cascade32 over the rude weir33 built of mossy boulders36. It hushes37 the children of the village to sleep at night, and fills the ears on summer days with a lazy purr.
There is a good deal of Stoke Gabriel when you come to know it well. Particularly pretty is the little street of cottages leading up to the church, where the “Church House Inn” by its sign seems to indicate that it was originally one of those houses provided by the church for the accommodation of parishioners coming from some distance to attend service. Such houses were often kept by the parish clerk, who brewed38 the “church ales.” In the course of centuries the custom of clerical ale-brewing and keeping a “church-house” fell into disuse, and the house itself generally became a village inn. In this manner the singularly close neighbourhood of village churches and inns, often curiously39 commented upon, originated.
The church contains one rather pretty epitaph:
It is “To the memory of Mrs. Tamosin, wife of Peter Lyde, Deceased ye 25 of Febru. MDCLXIII,” and is inscribed40 upon a heart-shaped mural monument:—
“Long may thy name, as long as marble, last,
Beloved Tamosin, though under clods here cast.
This formall heart doth truly signify
If to be graccius doth requir due praise
Let Tamosin have it, she deserves ye bayes.”
It is curious to observe how the “Mrs.” has been inserted before “Tamosin,” as an afterthought. We seem to see in it a post-mortem jealousy42 on the part of the bereaved43 Peter Lyde that any one should use the name of his lost Tamosin without that formal title.
[186]
The passengers landing at Duncannon Quay are few; often there are none at all, and the few are rarely other than country-folk making for their quiet villages.
For the average tourist to land at Duncannon, instead of completing the time-honoured trip to Totnes, would be an originality44 never likely to enter into the mind of him. He takes the excursion trips as he finds them, and is content. And, being content, who shall blame him? Not I, for one; for his satisfaction with the well-worn round is of itself no ignoble45 thing in this dear Devonshire, where even the most frequented circuits are exquisite46, and crowds unknown.
So it happens that the explorer making for Aish finds himself the only passenger for Duncannon, and is like to feel important when for him the steamer hoots47 and stops, and he goes over the side into the ferry-boat, amid the interested and wondering glances of the excursionists for Totnes.
Half-a-dozen strokes of the oars48, and the boat brings you to the quay, nestling by the quiet waterside, where low cliffs of red earth dip to the shore. “One penny, sir, please,” says the old boatman, who, with straw-hat of primæval plait and design, like a thatched roof, seems a survival of the old Devonshire rustics50, whose speech was so unintelligible51 to those tourists who were the first to ever burst into these unknown wilds. Appearances, it is well known, are deceptive52, and here no less than elsewhere; for when you look[189] upon the raw newness that has replaced the old ramshackly and delightfully53 sketchable aspect of Duncannon Quay, and remark upon the change, this seeming survival says—oh, the shock of it—“Oh, yes, it’s been thoroughly54 renovated55.” Not unjustifiably, I think, one feels aggrieved56, both at that renovation57 and at that departure from the ancient Doric of the countryside. Time was when this old lank58 boatman, with the clothes that seem to have grown in one of his native orchards, rather than to have been made, and with a tanned and freckled59 face, the colour of the russet apple;—time was, I say, when this ferryman, who merely paddles about in this remote nook of the Dart, would have phrased it differently, and would have said: “’Ee’s proper did up,” which is certainly more racy of Devon.
The “doing up” or the “renovation”—whichever you will—of Duncannon Quay is certainly thorough. Its two houses are faced with that pallid60 stucco of which they are so alarmingly fond in modern Devon; neat little white brick piers61 stand in a neat little row, with neat little railings in between, on the quayside; and a corrugated62 tin hut is posted at the end. The Philistines63 have descended64 upon Duncannon, with a vengeance65; and although the ferryman, with his intimate knowledge of the moist Devon climate, is of opinion that the newness will not last long, we venture to think that when the edge of novelty has been taken off by the weather, it is shabbiness, and not picturesqueness66, that will[190] result. One thing is certain; neither moss34 nor lichen67 ever yet grew on galvanized corrugated iron.
Aish, we know, means Ash, and is merely the old-world style of pronunciation crystallised in writing, and perpetuated68 on many maps, but our boatman styles it “Ash.” Yet even he is not without some lingering relics69 of the old rustic49 inflections, for he directs the enquirer70 to it by advising him to “volley” the telephone wire. A few years ago, one would have “volleyed” the “telegraft”; yet another few years, with wireless71 communication everywhere and all the poles and wires abolished, and the chief landmark72 and standby of local guides gone, what will the stranger do then but lose his way?
There really are unusual numbers of ash trees on the way to Aish, and fine ones, bordering the road, or “Parliament Lane” as the rustics yet know it, between Brixham, Yalberton, and this historic hamlet. Two or three country seats or villas73, with a number of modern cottages, and two or three ancient thatched dwellings74: such is Aish; but “Parliament House” is, after all, not in Aish, but away, through it, considerably76 on the other side, in a fine solitary situation at the foot of a steep hill, in what is, with a peculiar77 appropriateness, called Longcombe. It is not difficult to see into the minds of those who selected this cottage for that meeting. Aish is a small hamlet now, and must have been very tiny then, but that place was far too large and crowded,[191] where one house commanded another and where the foregathering of fine gentlemen could be noted78 and remembered against a possible day of reckoning. So, through Aish and to Longcombe, those cautious negotiators came and conducted their parley79 in this leafy solitude80. And although it is on the direct road to Totnes, it is solitary still; a place where on your approach you hear a child say, in the softly reverberant81 Devon speech, “Mothurr, here’s a man”; and mother, thus advised, gazes long after the unwonted sight.
I wish, for the sake of completeness, I could say that an ash overhangs the road at this point:[192] but I cannot. It is an oak, and a very fine oak, which here frames in the picture made by the old cottage at the foot of the hill.
Built of local ragstone and thatched, the old dwelling75 has probably not been altered in any particular since the memorable82 time of that secret conclave83, and it still belongs to the Seymours, or St. Maurs, as they now—harking back to the ancient spelling—choose to style themselves. The historic association is the subject of a diffident allusion84 inscribed in recent times on a stone pillar in the garden:—
William
Prince of
Orange
is said to have
held his first
Parliament
here
in November
1688
The remainder of the voyage up the Dart to Totnes is along a gradually narrowing stream, past the noble hanging woods of Sharpham, to Bridgetown Quay, where the road-bridge and the narrowed river alike forbid further progress.
Of Totnes there is a great deal more to be said than can be set down here. Between the mythical85 legend of its being founded by Brutus the Trojan and modern times, it has acquired a history which demands volumes. It had a mint in Saxon ages, is described as a walled town in Domesday, and was not without some eminent[193] rottenness as a rotten borough86 at the beginning of the nineteenth century. It has a mystical castle mound87, with a circular shell of a keep on the summit, an ancient gateway88 spanning the main street, and an interesting old guildhall. Its beautiful church is among the very finest in Devon, and the quaint89 old piazza90 shops vie with those of Dartmouth. There is, as may well be supposed, much doubt of Brutus the Trojan having been the founder91 of Totnes, but the legend is indestructible, from very inability to disprove it; besides, let into the pavement outside 51, Fore41 Street, you are shown the very granite92 boulder35 on which Brutus set foot when he landed! and so he becomes associated, at the beginning of the town’s long story, with a wanderer, in his own way equally remarkable93, at its close. For in Totnes you may see, in the open space called “The Plains,” a monument to William John Wills, a native of the town, and son of a local doctor, which narrates94 how he was born in 1834, emigrated in 1852 to Australia, and, having been “the first of mankind to cross the Australian Continent, perished in returning.” He was a greater traveller than Brutus; and his exploits, as we see, are matters of ascertained95 fact.
点击收听单词发音
1 dart | |
v.猛冲,投掷;n.飞镖,猛冲 | |
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2 estuary | |
n.河口,江口 | |
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3 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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4 creeks | |
n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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5 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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6 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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7 penetrate | |
v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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8 geographical | |
adj.地理的;地区(性)的 | |
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9 capes | |
碎谷; 斗篷( cape的名词复数 ); 披肩; 海角; 岬 | |
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10 windings | |
(道路、河流等)蜿蜒的,弯曲的( winding的名词复数 ); 缠绕( wind的现在分词 ); 卷绕; 转动(把手) | |
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11 plies | |
v.使用(工具)( ply的第三人称单数 );经常供应(食物、饮料);固定往来;经营生意 | |
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12 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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13 prodigal | |
adj.浪费的,挥霍的,放荡的 | |
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14 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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15 orchards | |
(通常指围起来的)果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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16 supreme | |
adj.极度的,最重要的;至高的,最高的 | |
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17 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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18 authentic | |
a.真的,真正的;可靠的,可信的,有根据的 | |
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19 unity | |
n.团结,联合,统一;和睦,协调 | |
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20 repent | |
v.悔悟,悔改,忏悔,后悔 | |
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21 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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22 hermit | |
n.隐士,修道者;隐居 | |
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23 secluded | |
adj.与世隔绝的;隐退的;偏僻的v.使隔开,使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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24 fleeting | |
adj.短暂的,飞逝的 | |
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25 ooze | |
n.软泥,渗出物;vi.渗出,泄漏;vt.慢慢渗出,流露 | |
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26 twigs | |
细枝,嫩枝( twig的名词复数 ) | |
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27 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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28 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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29 defender | |
n.保卫者,拥护者,辩护人 | |
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30 primitive | |
adj.原始的;简单的;n.原(始)人,原始事物 | |
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31 ebb | |
vi.衰退,减退;n.处于低潮,处于衰退状态 | |
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32 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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33 weir | |
n.堰堤,拦河坝 | |
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34 moss | |
n.苔,藓,地衣 | |
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35 boulder | |
n.巨砾;卵石,圆石 | |
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36 boulders | |
n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 );巨砾;(受水或天气侵蚀而成的)巨石;漂砾 | |
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37 hushes | |
n.安静,寂静( hush的名词复数 ) | |
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38 brewed | |
调制( brew的过去式和过去分词 ); 酝酿; 沏(茶); 煮(咖啡) | |
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39 curiously | |
adv.有求知欲地;好问地;奇特地 | |
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40 inscribed | |
v.写,刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 );内接 | |
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41 fore | |
adv.在前面;adj.先前的;在前部的;n.前部 | |
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42 jealousy | |
n.妒忌,嫉妒,猜忌 | |
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43 bereaved | |
adj.刚刚丧失亲人的v.使失去(希望、生命等)( bereave的过去式和过去分词);(尤指死亡)使丧失(亲人、朋友等);使孤寂;抢走(财物) | |
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44 originality | |
n.创造力,独创性;新颖 | |
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45 ignoble | |
adj.不光彩的,卑鄙的;可耻的 | |
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46 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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47 hoots | |
咄,啐 | |
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48 oars | |
n.桨,橹( oar的名词复数 );划手v.划(行)( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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49 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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50 rustics | |
n.有农村或村民特色的( rustic的名词复数 );粗野的;不雅的;用粗糙的木材或树枝制作的 | |
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51 unintelligible | |
adj.无法了解的,难解的,莫明其妙的 | |
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52 deceptive | |
adj.骗人的,造成假象的,靠不住的 | |
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53 delightfully | |
大喜,欣然 | |
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54 thoroughly | |
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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55 renovated | |
翻新,修复,整修( renovate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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56 aggrieved | |
adj.愤愤不平的,受委屈的;悲痛的;(在合法权利方面)受侵害的v.令委屈,令苦恼,侵害( aggrieve的过去式);令委屈,令苦恼,侵害( aggrieve的过去式和过去分词) | |
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57 renovation | |
n.革新,整修 | |
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58 lank | |
adj.瘦削的;稀疏的 | |
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59 freckled | |
adj.雀斑;斑点;晒斑;(使)生雀斑v.雀斑,斑点( freckle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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60 pallid | |
adj.苍白的,呆板的 | |
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61 piers | |
n.水上平台( pier的名词复数 );(常设有娱乐场所的)突堤;柱子;墙墩 | |
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62 corrugated | |
adj.波纹的;缩成皱纹的;波纹面的;波纹状的v.(使某物)起皱褶(corrugate的过去式和过去分词) | |
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63 philistines | |
n.市侩,庸人( philistine的名词复数 );庸夫俗子 | |
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64 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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65 vengeance | |
n.报复,报仇,复仇 | |
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66 picturesqueness | |
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67 lichen | |
n.地衣, 青苔 | |
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68 perpetuated | |
vt.使永存(perpetuate的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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69 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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70 enquirer | |
寻问者,追究者 | |
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71 wireless | |
adj.无线的;n.无线电 | |
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72 landmark | |
n.陆标,划时代的事,地界标 | |
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73 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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74 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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75 dwelling | |
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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76 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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77 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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78 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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79 parley | |
n.谈判 | |
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80 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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81 reverberant | |
a.起回声的 | |
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82 memorable | |
adj.值得回忆的,难忘的,特别的,显著的 | |
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83 conclave | |
n.秘密会议,红衣主教团 | |
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84 allusion | |
n.暗示,间接提示 | |
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85 mythical | |
adj.神话的;虚构的;想像的 | |
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86 borough | |
n.享有自治权的市镇;(英)自治市镇 | |
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87 mound | |
n.土墩,堤,小山;v.筑堤,用土堆防卫 | |
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88 gateway | |
n.大门口,出入口,途径,方法 | |
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89 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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90 piazza | |
n.广场;走廊 | |
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91 Founder | |
n.创始者,缔造者 | |
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92 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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93 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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94 narrates | |
v.故事( narrate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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95 ascertained | |
v.弄清,确定,查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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