At Turnchapel the ferry steamer takes the wearied exerciser upon Shanks’s Mare15 across the Catwater to Phœnix Wharf16 and the old original Plymouth, adjoining the Barbican and Sutton Pool.
[267]
Every one knows the stream that comes down from Dartmoor and falls into the Laira creek17 as[269] the Plym, but its original name was the Cad, and Plymouth was originally “Sutton”: still known as “Sutton-on-Plym.” It is found under this name in Domesday Book. The name Catwater, or Cattewater, as it is also spelled, may be a survival of the original name of the river, as well as being one of the numerous stretches of water with this prefix18: the Cattegat, i.e., the “narrow gate,” at the entrance of the Baltic; Catford, near London, Catawade, on the river Stour, near Manningtree; all with the same meaning of narrowness.
There is some ground for supposing that the original name of Plymouth, or a portion of the vast site now occupied by the Three Towns of Plymouth, Devonport and Stonehouse, was in Saxon times “Tamarweorth,” and the present name only begins to figure in ancient documents of the mid-thirteenth century, in a tentative way, as “Sutton-super-Plymouth.” After that period it gradually rose to importance, being first represented in Parliament in 1298. Sutton Pool, the innermost basin of Plymouth, the old original harbour, and still the place to which the fishing smacks19 and many of the local steamers come, is bordered by the ancient quays20 and the queer old houses of the Barbican, once a district inhabited by merchant princes, but now pre-eminently “Old Plymouth,” and although exceedingly picturesque22, scarcely a residential23 quarter. The Barbican took its name originally from the castle, now the citadel24, which guarded the narrow entrance to Sutton Pool, across which was stretched every night, in[270] the time of Henry the Eighth, a protective chain. From these defences the existing arms of Plymouth, four black castles between a green saltire, are said to derive25. The pious26 motto of the town is Tunis fortissima est nomen Jehovah, but at the same time Plymouth is very strongly fortified27 in the military way.
Certain very definite and picturesque scenes arise out of the dim abysmal28, grey and confused rag-bag of history here in this fishy29 Barbican. Most definite of all the last farewell to England[271] of the Pilgrim Fathers in 1620. On the pavement, by the quay21, is a modest stone, inscribed30, “Mayflower,” with the date; and near at hand, let into a wall, a less modest commemorative bronze tablet, with this inscription31:—
“On the 6th of September, 1620, in the Mayoralty of Thomas Fownes, after being “kindly entertained and courteously32 used by divers33 Friends there dwelling,” the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from Plymouth in the Mayflower in the Providence34 of God to settle in New Plymouth, and to lay the Foundation of the New England States. The ancient Cawsey whence they embarked35 was destroyed not many years afterwards, but the Site of their Embarkation37 is marked by the Stone bearing the name of the Mayflower in the pavement of the adjacent Pier38. This Tablet was erected39 in the Mayoralty of J. T. Bond, 1891, to commemorate40 their Departure, and the visit to Plymouth in July of that Year of a number of their Descendants and Representatives.”
There were forty-eight men and fifty-three women and children in this little band, and the voyage occupied sixty days.
The spot means much to Americans, for here the handful of emigrants41 for conscience’ sake definitely cast adrift from their native land, which denied them religious liberty, and made oversea to the coast of Massachusetts, there to found a nation anew. The little Mayflower had sailed originally from Boston, in Lincolnshire, and bade farewell to old England from the coast of Devon; and thus it seemed fitting to those stern voluntary outcasts that they should—still fondly looking back to their motherland—name their landing-place in the new world “Plymouth Rock,” and[272] the earliest among their settlements “Boston.” There was, therefore, an exquisite42 fitness in the circumstance that it was into this Boston harbour in America, a hundred and fifty-three years later, that the colonists43 should fling the taxed tea, and thus begin the struggle whence the dependent New England colonies emerged as the sovereign United States.
Our sympathies go out, historically, toward those Pilgrim Fathers, but they would seem, viewed closely, to have been not quite so lovable as historic glamour45 makes them. Their religious fervency46 was undoubted, but by all accounts it made them ill to live with, and they would have been greatly improved by a little sense of humour. But then—it is a startling thought—if humour had entered at all into their composition they had never left their native shores at all, and the stern principles which led them to refuse to acknowledge James I. as head of the Church, and to expatriate themselves when that shambling travesty47 of a king declared that if they did not conform, the country should not hold both, would have melted into satiric48 laughter and an easygoing compliance49.
But two autocrats50 may not reign44 side by side; as easily might a soliloquy be conducted by two or more persons; and a king with a fondness for omniscience51 and absolutism, and a people whose religious fervency had risen almost to the white heat of fanaticism52 cannot abide53 together; hence the voyage of the Mayflower, and this place[273] of pilgrimage for descendants of those New Englanders.
The greatest point of vantage in all Plymouth is the great open space beside the citadel.
It is the Hoe. What the Rialto was to Venice, what the Hard to Portsmouth, the Sandhill to Newcastle-on-Tyne, the Broomielaw to Glasgow, that was the Hoe to Plymouth of old. From it, let us never forget, on a memorable54 day of 1588, the “Invincible55” Armada was sighted; that proud fleet which was to conquer England, and place the foot of Spain upon our necks, and the spiritual domination of the Pope of Rome over our consciences. History tells us that the King of Spain was not making that unprovoked attack upon us which the simple legends of an earlier and uncritical age would have us believe, and we know that he was but seeking a very natural revenge for the piracies56 Drake and others had long practised upon his ships and foreign possessions; both sides played the same lawless game, only in those days Spain was the richer country and her treasure galleons57 the easier prey58.
How did Elizabeth’s captains await the coming of the foe59? Cheerily and calmly enough, though their ships were few and small, and parsimony60 at the fountain-head of State forbade the proper measures being taken in the teeth of this long-threatened danger. Stout61 hearts and ready seamanship, aided by the providential tempest that wrecked62 the stately ships of Spain, served our turn, and Old England came victorious63 through[274] that time of storm and stress, as she has since come through many another, by favour of Providence and through the handiwork of brave hearts alone. Statesmanship and the proper preparations of Government had been to seek, as they commonly are. Was ever there another so happy-go-lucky—and so lucky—a country?
I like—and all Englishmen must needs like—to think of the proud spirit of that gallant64 company of captains assembled upon the Hoe at their game of bowls, when news of the Armada sighted off the Lizard65, and coming with the south-westerly wind up Channel, gave them momentary66 pause. There were gathered together Lord, Howard of Effingham, the Lord High Admiral of England, and with him were Drake, Hawkins, Frobisher, and other great captains, among others of lesser67 fame. It was like to be a crushing force that was advancing toward our shores, for it numbered no fewer than one hundred and thirty-five men-o’-war, with crews of 8,000 men and 19,000 soldiers. But so confident were that gallant company of their capacity to resist invasion that—so the story from that time has run—on the suggestion of Sir Francis Drake, who boldly asserted that there was plenty time to finish their game first and thrash the Spaniards afterwards, they elected to complete their bout68 of bowls.
I will not seek the authority upon which that brave old tradition rests, and a malison, I say, upon all who would whittle69 away our most[275] cherished beliefs. Cold-blooded commentators70 tell us that the famous expression, “The Old Guard dies, but never surrenders,” was not uttered, and declare, contrary from general belief, that the Duke of Wellington at Waterloo never said, “Up Guards, and at ’em!” and very likely some one, somewhere, has made hash of the heart-stirring tradition of Plymouth Hoe and claimed to prove something craven and mean. Sufficient for me, however, the story with which the Muse71 of History has hitherto been content.
For centuries the memories of that soul-stirring victory over the Invincible abode72 only in the minds of Englishmen and between the covers of history-books, but in these latter days, these post-heroic days of criticism and commemoration, when all the great men are dead and all the great deeds done, and we have for some time been engaged upon raising monuments to the deeds and to the men who wrought73 them, or criticising and explaining the why and the how and the uses, or the uselessness it may be, of those men and the work of their hands,—in these latter days, I say, an Armada Memorial has been set up upon the historic Hoe. It is a tall pedestal, embellished74 with bronze plates and medallions, and bearing the inscription, “He blew with His winds and they were scattered,” and with the virago75 figure of a helmeted Britannia rushing in tempestuous76 petticoats, atop. Close at hand is the statue of Sir Francis Drake, that brilliant member of a brilliant group of Devonian[276] Elizabethans; one who, like Raleigh, in his time played many parts, was foremost among those scourges77 of Spain we bred in those spacious78 days, pirate, filibuster79, patriot80, benefactor81, and the first to circumnavigate the globe. Little wonder, then, that the name of Drake is honoured, even yet, in Plymouth. They honour his memory so jealously every year, at the Corporation visit to the weirs82, not because of his martial83 exploits and the services he rendered the nation, but for the benefit he conferred upon Plymouth by bringing its water-supply from the inexhaustible springs of Dartmoor; and thus, in piously84 exclaiming, “May the descendants of him who brought us water never want for wine,” the Mayor sinks the repute of the Imperialist of the Elizabethan age in that of the local benefactor.
The improving hand of modern times has indeed improved away much of the outward and visible romance of the Hoe, which, from the rugged85 cliff-top common of Elizabeth’s time, whence the great captains, roused from their historic game of bowls, first glimpsed the dreaded86 Armada, has been flattened87 out into trim lawns, and provided with broad gravelled promenade88 paths, like the veriest urban park or recreation ground. All the forces that make for the commonplace and the obvious have been let loose upon the Hoe, and much of its highly picturesque character has been lost under the treatment of the surveyor and the landscape gardener. But this historic spot can never be quite spoiled,[277] so long as it continues to look out upon Plymouth Sound, and nothing less than a cataclysm89 of Nature can alter that outlook.
Consider how exceptional the site. A hundred and fifty feet above the sea, it looks straight out to the Channel, three miles away, with the many square miles of glorious Plymouth Sound in between, enclosed to right and left by the wooded heights of Mount Edgcumbe and the terraced hills[278] of Mount Batten and Bovisand. Drake’s Island, immediately in front of the Hoe, and looking so near, is a mile away, and at the distance of another two miles is the famous Breakwater. The Hoe thus stands at the head of one of the finest harbours in the world: finest alike from the seafaring and the picturesque points of view; but it has yet another function—or had, in those days before the giant ordnance91 of modern times was dreamt of—for it is situated92 prominently between the further inlets of the Catwater and the Hamoaze, where, unsuspected by the ill-informed enemies of other centuries, lay the wealth of Plymouth. Then it was that the Citadel, built upon the Hoe, was capable of challenging the foe, wishful of sending exploratory keels up the many creeks93 and estuaries94 that run in every direction inland, like the spreading fingers of a hand. The citadel is a fine, impressive piece of late seventeenth-century work, and although it was obsolete95 as a defence centuries ago, appeals very strongly to the layman96 in fortification, to whom battlements and castellated architecture appeal more forcibly than the earthworks of yonder forts semicircling the crescented hills, from Staddon Heights and Bovisand in Devon, to Tregantle and Screasdon in Cornwall.
Off the Hoe, in the most commanding position, disputing, if need were, the entrance to Mill Bay, the Catwater and the Hamoaze, is the great crag now known as Drake’s Island. It is a kind of islanded Gibraltar, a nest of forts and batteries[279] of a calibre not generally known, but reputed immensely strong. Drake’s Island is not accessible to the public, and like all mysteries, is looked upon with awe97. In the old days, when it was St. Nicholas Island, the place made an ideal prison, as regicides and recusants discovered in the reign of Charles the Second.
That was a worthy98 and a noble idea by which Smeaton’s old lighthouse-tower, superseded99 from its watch and ward36 over the Eddystone, was rebuilt on the Hoe in 1882. From the gallery of it you may glimpse its successor, diminished by the distance of fourteen miles to the semblance100 of a tiny stalk rising lonely amidst the waste of waters. It was no reflection upon the stability of the tower that it was found necessary to remove it, after it had safely weathered the storms of a hundred and twenty years in that exposed situation. It was the reef on which it stood that had decayed. The interior of this wave-washed tower, come ashore101 again after so many years, is open to inspection102, and there, around the cornice of what was the store-room, you read the expression of the piety103 of those who built, in the text, “Except the Lord build the house, they labour in vain that build it,” while above the lantern is the further inscription, “24th August, 1759, Laus Deo.”
Unhappily for the romantic associations of the Hoe, fifth-rate and utterly104 unhistoric streets and tramways conspire105 to render sordid the immediate90 neighbourhood, and the place-name[280] has itself been, time beyond the memory of man, the sport of the H-less. It was H. J. Byron, the dramatist, who made a crushing retort to an actor, who, late for rehearsal106, had excused himself by saying he had been for a “walk round the ’oe.” “Next time,” said Byron, “don’t wander so far. Take a stroll round the H.”
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1
remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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deceptive
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| adj.骗人的，造成假象的，靠不住的 | |
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panoramic
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| adj. 全景的 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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unfamiliar
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| adj.陌生的，不熟悉的 | |
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coves
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| n.小海湾( cove的名词复数 )；家伙 | |
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middle-aged
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| adj.中年的 | |
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garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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grit
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| n.沙粒，决心，勇气；v.下定决心，咬紧牙关 | |
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ferment
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| vt.使发酵；n./vt.（使）激动，（使）动乱 | |
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sordid
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| adj.肮脏的，不干净的，卑鄙的，暗淡的 | |
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modesty
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| n.谦逊，虚心，端庄，稳重，羞怯，朴素 | |
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piquantly
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surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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prefix
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| n.前缀；vt.加…作为前缀；置于前面 | |
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smacks
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| 掌掴（声）( smack的名词复数 )； 海洛因； （打的）一拳； 打巴掌 | |
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quays
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| 码头( quay的名词复数 ) | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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residential
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| adj.提供住宿的；居住的；住宅的 | |
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citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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derive
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| v.取得；导出；引申；来自；源自；出自 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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abysmal
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| adj.无底的，深不可测的，极深的；糟透的，极坏的；完全的 | |
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fishy
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| adj. 值得怀疑的 | |
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inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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courteously
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| adv.有礼貌地，亲切地 | |
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divers
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| adj.不同的；种种的 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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embarkation
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| n. 乘船, 搭机, 开船 | |
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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commemorate
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| vt.纪念，庆祝 | |
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emigrants
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| n.（从本国移往他国的）移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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glamour
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| n.魔力，魅力；vt.迷住 | |
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fervency
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| n.热情的；强烈的；热烈 | |
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travesty
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| n.歪曲，嘲弄，滑稽化 | |
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satiric
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| adj.讽刺的，挖苦的 | |
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compliance
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| n.顺从；服从；附和；屈从 | |
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autocrats
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| n.独裁统治者( autocrat的名词复数 )；独断专行的人 | |
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omniscience
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| n.全知，全知者，上帝 | |
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fanaticism
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| n.狂热，盲信 | |
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53
abide
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| vi.遵守；坚持；vt.忍受 | |
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memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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55
invincible
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| adj.不可征服的，难以制服的 | |
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piracies
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| n.海上抢劫( piracy的名词复数 )；盗版行为，非法复制 | |
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galleons
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| n.大型帆船( galleon的名词复数 ) | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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parsimony
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| n.过度节俭，吝啬 | |
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wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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victorious
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| adj.胜利的，得胜的 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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lizard
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| n.蜥蜴，壁虎 | |
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momentary
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| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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lesser
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| adj.次要的，较小的；adv.较小地，较少地 | |
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bout
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| n.侵袭，发作；一次(阵，回)；拳击等比赛 | |
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whittle
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| v.削（木头），削减；n.屠刀 | |
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commentators
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| n.评论员( commentator的名词复数 )；时事评论员；注释者；实况广播员 | |
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muse
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| n.缪斯（希腊神话中的女神），创作灵感 | |
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abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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embellished
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| v.美化( embellish的过去式和过去分词 )；装饰；修饰；润色 | |
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virago
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| n.悍妇 | |
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tempestuous
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| adj.狂暴的 | |
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scourges
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| 带来灾难的人或东西，祸害( scourge的名词复数 )； 鞭子 | |
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78
spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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filibuster
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| n.妨碍议事，阻挠；v.阻挠 | |
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80
patriot
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| n.爱国者，爱国主义者 | |
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81
benefactor
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| n. 恩人，行善的人，捐助人 | |
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82
weirs
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| n.堰，鱼梁（指拦截游鱼的枝条篱）( weir的名词复数 ) | |
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martial
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| adj.战争的，军事的，尚武的，威武的 | |
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piously
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| adv.虔诚地 | |
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85
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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86
dreaded
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| adj.令人畏惧的；害怕的v.害怕，恐惧，担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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87
flattened
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| [医]（水）平扁的，弄平的 | |
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promenade
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| n./v.散步 | |
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89
cataclysm
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| n.洪水，剧变，大灾难 | |
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90
immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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ordnance
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| n.大炮，军械 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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93
creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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estuaries
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| （江河入海的）河口，河口湾( estuary的名词复数 ) | |
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obsolete
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| adj.已废弃的，过时的 | |
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layman
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| n.俗人，门外汉，凡人 | |
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97
awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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superseded
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| [医]被代替的，废弃的 | |
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semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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101
ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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102
inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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103
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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104
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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105
conspire
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| v.密谋，（事件等）巧合，共同导致 | |
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rehearsal
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| n.排练，排演；练习 | |
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