HAPPY and expectant, as two young cricketers, who, having made no “end of a score” in their first innings, go forth1 a-gain to the wicket, we started next morning in the currus militarius, or Car of Miles, for another joyous2 day at Killarney. Stopping at the entrance of the town, we went into the Cathedral (R.C.), a very handsome edifice3 of beautiful proportions, in the severe, Early-English style. The carving4 in stone over the high altar, in the Chapel5 of the Sacrament, and especially in the exquisite6 symmetry of the figures in the arches of the doorways7, is exceedingly chaste8 and clear, and some Connamara marble about one of the lesser9 altars has a very pleasing effect. Not so the numerous confessionals, which, with their new wood and bright drapery, are somewhat suggestive of wardrobes, and detract, as novelties always do, from the ecclesiastical aspect of the interior.
Hard by, upon the hill, stands the spacious10 Asylum11 for the Insane, sadly reminding us of poor Pugin, who designed the Cathedral; and, less painfully, of Swift's last act of penitent12 charity, the bequest13 of £12,000, nearly all he had to bequeath, for the erection of a similar institution.
Egans Bog-oak and Arbutus warehouse14 well deserves a visit. Here you learn from a ledger15, opening, as ledgers16 will, at a brilliant galaxy18 of noble names, which makes a commoner's eyes wink19, how the Right Honourable20 the Earl of Cash bought an elaborate table for my Lady's boudoir, and how Rear-Admiral Sir Bowline Bluff21 made purchase of a Backgammon board, marvellously inlaid, over which I venture to surmise22, he has ere this discoursed23 in stormy language, when the gout and the dice24 have been against him. Let us tread, softly and at a distance, in these illustrious footprints, and buy our meek25 memorials of Killarney.
Hence onward26 to the Tore Cascade27, descending28 its silver staircase amid green trees and graceful29 ferns,—the latter including, as we were told, the rare Trichomanes speciosum. Here there is a lovely landscape of the Middle and Lower Lakes, and there were seats wherefrom to enjoy it, until those despicable snobs30, who had mutilated the trees in Rohnaines Island, threw them (sweet gentlemen!) down the waterfall. And it's O for a tête-à-tête with the principal performer, in the unbroken seclusion31 of a twenty-four foot ring!
But we must think more wisely, as we approach the solemn ruins of Mucross, than of punching our fellow-creatures' heads, though even here upon the very tombs, the miscreants32 have been at work,—disporting themselves, like filthy33 ghouls and vampires—and scrabbling upon the stones, as madmen will.
So much remains34, both of Church and Abbye, that imagination readily supplies what is gone. Here in the Choir35, where that ill-tempered looking tourist is reprimanding his wife for giving a beggar twopence, the brothers of St. Francis of Assisi were wont36 to sing holy psalms37; and there in the Cloisters38, where those two gaily-dressed French girls are admiring the gigantic yew-tree, and wondering what has become of “ce cher Jules,” (whom I apprehend39 to be a lover, but who comes round the corner, a poodle, dreadful to contemplate40!) there
“Ever-musing melancholy41 dwelt,”
and there paced the pale Franciscan, in the sombre habit of his order, and girded with his hempencord.
Laugh on, sweet Stephanie, joyous Josephine (I heard their names from Mamma in search); but be not cruel with your charms, for Love, unloved, can still change men to monks,—forlorn and wretched, though in crowded streets, as he, of whom Percy sang:
“Within these holy cloysters long
He languisht, and he dyed
And 'playning of her pride.”
There are some beautiful ferns among and about these ruins, but being a very poor Polypodian, or Scolopendrian (or whatever may be the scientific title of a Fernist), I only recognised the Hart's-tongue,—with its fructification arranged like a miniature plan of ships in order of battle,—and of this I gathered some very fine fronds43, and put them in my hat, as will appear hereafter.
Passing through Mr. Herberts beautiful demesne44, by his pleasant home (note the St. John's-wort by the wayside), his offices, and yards, wherein the newest agricultural implements45 cause one to sigh more than ever for landlords, resident and liberal as he,—by the copper-mine, rich and productive until the envious46 waters interfered47, we reach the Middle Lake, and our boat, waiting for us, thereupon.
Tourists, who have written about the Irish Lakes have made but little mention of this Middle, Mucross, or Tore Lake. Like the youngest of three fair sisters, she is kept in the background by their proximity48 and prior claims, being, moreover, an unobtrusive, gentle beauty, of a subdued49 and retiring air, not demanding the admiration50 she deserves. But were there such a scene of tranquil51 loveliness six miles from any of our great manufacturing towns, it would be a refreshment52, and a blessing53 evermore, to thousands of our weary artisans, just as “the Pool,” by Sutton Coldfield, (one of the prettiest spots in England) is the holiday resort and resting-place of the working men of Birmingham.
Leaving this sweet seclusion, and rowing under the picturesque54 bridge which connects the islands of Dinisk and Brickeen, we come once more into the bay of Glena, and the “cottage near a wood.” Here, climbing the hill, and choosing a position which commanded a most delightful55 view, we enjoyed the sandwich and scene. Descending, we were horrified56 to hear that “whetstone of the teeth,” the bagpipes57, droning away close to our boat, and abominable59 to both of us as a dialogue between connubial60 cats, or a class of schoolboys pointing slate61 pencils. But “Ars longa,” art is long-headed; and so we tossed up which of us, preceding the other, should go down, pay the piper, and keep him in conversation until his friend had reached the boat. This service of conspicuous62 gallantry fell to me, and if ever man deserved the Victoria Cross, I won it there and then.
They say, but I don't believe it, that the red-deer, who inhabit these mountains, admire this infernal machine; and, in proof thereof, the Rev63. Mr. Wright, in his Guide to Killarney, quotes the following anecdote64 from Playford's History of Music:—
“As I travelled some years ago near Royston, I met a herd65 of stags, about twenty, on the road, following a bagpipe58 and violin, which when the music played they went forward, when it ceased they all stood still, and in this manner they were brought out of Yorkshire to Hampton Court.” Next we rowed to O'Sullivans Cascade, foaming66 down its triple falls; and here finding some shamrock, and feeling very Irish, we liberally adorned67 our coats and hats with it. To our surprise and disappointment, upon our return, the boatmen appeared to be perfectly68 indifferent to this enthusiastic display of their national emblem69; and it subsequently transpired70, to our very severe discomfort71, that we had ornamented72 our persons with some vulgar trefoil, which did not resemble the shamrock at all, at all. 1 It vexed73 one's vanity to have performed unconsciously both a Guy and a Jack-in-the-Green; and the effect produced reminded me of the answer of a Nottinghamshire labourer, in reply to my inquiries74 concerning his friend, “To tell you the truth, Sir, Bill's been and married his mestur, and it's gloppened him a good-ish bit!”
1 “We believe it to be an ascertained75 fact, that the
shamrock of the old Irish was not a trefoil at all, but the
wood-sorrel, Oxalis acetosella”—Gardener? Chronicle, 7th
August, 1858.
Leaving to our right the numerous islets of the Lower Lake (there are thirty-three of them in all), and the ruins of Ross Castle, once the home of the O'Donoghues, we pass by fair Innisfallen, and, reaching our landing-place, separate awhile; Frank starting afresh to fish, and I returning to the inn.
In a cozy76 corner of the coffee-room, I began now to transcribe77 a little poem of a sentimental78 kind, which had suggested itself to my thoughts during our excursion. Looking up from time to time, as Poets (like poultry) will, when drinking at the Pierian stream, I was much offended to see several persons in different parts of the room, evidently amusing themselves at my expense. A joke loses its festive79 character, when it falls upon one's own head, especially when that head is profusely80 crowned, as I soon discovered mine to be, with fronds of the Hart's-tongue Fern,—collected at Mucross, but entirely81 forgotten, until, bending lower than usual, I saw—
“frondes volitare caducas.”
I am afraid that I did not wear my chaplet so gracefully82 as Dante his, in that beautiful picture by Scheffer: on the contrary, I felt quite as ill at ease and uncomfortable as an Oxford83 friend, who, having won a steeple-chase last winter in France, was sent for by the Préfêt of the place, and crowned with a laurel wreath! What a pleasing harmony there must have been between his Bays and his dirty Boots!
Completing my manuscript, and leaving it in our joint-stock writing-case, I took a walk to the Post-Office at Killarney; and I do not think that it was at all gentlemanly in Francis to tamper84 with my poetry, on his return from fishing; erasing85 the alternate lines, and substituting rubbish of his own, as follows:—
KILLARNEY.
My Macgillicuddy's 1 cheeks,
And the day-god shoots
1 He persisted in addressing me by this extraordinary
And from sweet lnnisfallen,—
Why, it ain't, its full of conies, 1
Hark! a voice comes o'er the wave,
As I watch the Heron's wing,—
More fool you, you'll cut your chin!
Sailing stately, slowly flapping,—
Better work away with Mappin!
Ah, sweet morning's face is fair,—
Not so yours, soap'd like that ere!
And she dons her summer garment,—
Get on yours, you lazy varmint!
Jubilant in all her graces,
As if going to Hampton races,
Smiling, proud in all her riches,—
Where's that fellow put my-?
This good news to man narrating—
“Plaze, your 'onour, breakfast's waiting,
&c. &c. &c.
1 Or if it isn't, “Rabbit Island,” which is close to, ought
Calendar, vol. 408; and Bendigo, passim.—Frank C.
But Frank is one of those men with whom it is impossible to be angry; and if he were standing93 in his thickest shooting-boots, on your most susceptible94 corn, he would smile in your face with such exceeding suavity95, that you would almost consider the proceeding96 funny. So we sat down to discuss, in affectionate unison97, the delicious trout98 which he had caught (how could I eat his fish and be sulky?), amplifying99 our ordinary allowance of sherry, in honour of the Naiads and Dryads in general, and of the Naiads, who look after the trout, in particular.
These libations, assisted by potheen and pipe, make us very cheery in the smoke-room. Frank declared that I talked for two hours about Absenteeism to a Lincolnshire farmer, who was fast asleep; and I certainly heard him discoursing100, with a mimetic brogue, upon the state of Ireland, as though he had lived in the country all his life. So, desirous to keep ourselves “within the limits of becoming mirth,” and not to induce that metaphysical state, “quand celui qui parle n'entend rien, et celui qu'écouté n'entend plus,” we judiciously101 retired102 to roost.
“That very night, ere gentle sleep,” with “slumber's chain had bound me,” and “as I lay a-thinking,” I composed a little drama, for the benefit of Frank; and, rising early next morning, brought out upon the stage, or rather upon the passage,—
点击收听单词发音
1 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
2 joyous | |
adj.充满快乐的;令人高兴的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
3 edifice | |
n.宏伟的建筑物(如宫殿,教室) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
4 carving | |
n.雕刻品,雕花 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
5 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
6 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
7 doorways | |
n.门口,门道( doorway的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
8 chaste | |
adj.贞洁的;有道德的;善良的;简朴的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
9 lesser | |
adj.次要的,较小的;adv.较小地,较少地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
10 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
11 asylum | |
n.避难所,庇护所,避难 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
12 penitent | |
adj.后悔的;n.后悔者;忏悔者 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
13 bequest | |
n.遗赠;遗产,遗物 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
14 warehouse | |
n.仓库;vt.存入仓库 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
15 ledger | |
n.总帐,分类帐;帐簿 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
16 ledgers | |
n.分类账( ledger的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
17 gal | |
n.姑娘,少女 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
18 galaxy | |
n.星系;银河系;一群(杰出或著名的人物) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
19 wink | |
n.眨眼,使眼色,瞬间;v.眨眼,使眼色,闪烁 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
20 honourable | |
adj.可敬的;荣誉的,光荣的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
21 bluff | |
v.虚张声势,用假象骗人;n.虚张声势,欺骗 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
22 surmise | |
v./n.猜想,推测 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
23 discoursed | |
演说(discourse的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
24 dice | |
n.骰子;vt.把(食物)切成小方块,冒险 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
25 meek | |
adj.温顺的,逆来顺受的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
26 onward | |
adj.向前的,前进的;adv.向前,前进,在先 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
27 cascade | |
n.小瀑布,喷流;层叠;vi.成瀑布落下 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
28 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
29 graceful | |
adj.优美的,优雅的;得体的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
30 snobs | |
(谄上傲下的)势利小人( snob的名词复数 ); 自高自大者,自命不凡者 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
31 seclusion | |
n.隐遁,隔离 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
32 miscreants | |
n.恶棍,歹徒( miscreant的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
33 filthy | |
adj.卑劣的;恶劣的,肮脏的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
34 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
35 choir | |
n.唱诗班,唱诗班的席位,合唱团,舞蹈团;v.合唱 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
36 wont | |
adj.习惯于;v.习惯;n.习惯 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
37 psalms | |
n.赞美诗( psalm的名词复数 );圣诗;圣歌;(中的) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
38 cloisters | |
n.(学院、修道院、教堂等建筑的)走廊( cloister的名词复数 );回廊;修道院的生活;隐居v.隐退,使与世隔绝( cloister的第三人称单数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
39 apprehend | |
vt.理解,领悟,逮捕,拘捕,忧虑 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
40 contemplate | |
vt.盘算,计议;周密考虑;注视,凝视 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
41 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
42 lamenting | |
adj.悲伤的,悲哀的v.(为…)哀悼,痛哭,悲伤( lament的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
43 fronds | |
n.蕨类或棕榈类植物的叶子( frond的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
44 demesne | |
n.领域,私有土地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
45 implements | |
n.工具( implement的名词复数 );家具;手段;[法律]履行(契约等)v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 );执行;贯彻;使生效 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
46 envious | |
adj.嫉妒的,羡慕的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
47 interfered | |
v.干预( interfere的过去式和过去分词 );调停;妨碍;干涉 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
48 proximity | |
n.接近,邻近 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
49 subdued | |
adj. 屈服的,柔和的,减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
50 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
51 tranquil | |
adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
52 refreshment | |
n.恢复,精神爽快,提神之事物;(复数)refreshments:点心,茶点 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
53 blessing | |
n.祈神赐福;祷告;祝福,祝愿 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
54 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
55 delightful | |
adj.令人高兴的,使人快乐的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
56 horrified | |
a.(表现出)恐惧的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
57 bagpipes | |
n.风笛;风笛( bagpipe的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
58 bagpipe | |
n.风笛 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
59 abominable | |
adj.可厌的,令人憎恶的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
60 connubial | |
adj.婚姻的,夫妇的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
61 slate | |
n.板岩,石板,石片,石板色,候选人名单;adj.暗蓝灰色的,含板岩的;vt.用石板覆盖,痛打,提名,预订 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
62 conspicuous | |
adj.明眼的,惹人注目的;炫耀的,摆阔气的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
63 rev | |
v.发动机旋转,加快速度 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
64 anecdote | |
n.轶事,趣闻,短故事 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
65 herd | |
n.兽群,牧群;vt.使集中,把…赶在一起 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
66 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
67 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
68 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
69 emblem | |
n.象征,标志;徽章 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
70 transpired | |
(事实,秘密等)被人知道( transpire的过去式和过去分词 ); 泄露; 显露; 发生 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
71 discomfort | |
n.不舒服,不安,难过,困难,不方便 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
72 ornamented | |
adj.花式字体的v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
73 vexed | |
adj.争论不休的;(指问题等)棘手的;争论不休的问题;烦恼的v.使烦恼( vex的过去式和过去分词 );使苦恼;使生气;详细讨论 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
74 inquiries | |
n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 );疑问;探究;打听 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
75 ascertained | |
v.弄清,确定,查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
76 cozy | |
adj.亲如手足的,密切的,暖和舒服的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
77 transcribe | |
v.抄写,誉写;改编(乐曲);复制,转录 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
78 sentimental | |
adj.多愁善感的,感伤的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
79 festive | |
adj.欢宴的,节日的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
80 profusely | |
ad.abundantly | |
参考例句: |
|
|
81 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
82 gracefully | |
ad.大大方方地;优美地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
83 Oxford | |
n.牛津(英国城市) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
84 tamper | |
v.干预,玩弄,贿赂,窜改,削弱,损害 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
85 erasing | |
v.擦掉( erase的现在分词 );抹去;清除 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
86 streaks | |
n.(与周围有所不同的)条纹( streak的名词复数 );(通常指不好的)特征(倾向);(不断经历成功或失败的)一段时期v.快速移动( streak的第三人称单数 );使布满条纹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
87 shutters | |
百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 ); (照相机的)快门 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
88 sojourn | |
v./n.旅居,寄居;逗留 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
89 lone | |
adj.孤寂的,单独的;唯一的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
90 buffer | |
n.起缓冲作用的人(或物),缓冲器;vt.缓冲 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
91 aurora | |
n.极光 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
92 racing | |
n.竞赛,赛马;adj.竞赛用的,赛马用的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
93 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
94 susceptible | |
adj.过敏的,敏感的;易动感情的,易受感动的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
95 suavity | |
n.温和;殷勤 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
96 proceeding | |
n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
97 unison | |
n.步调一致,行动一致 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
98 trout | |
n.鳟鱼;鲑鱼(属) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
99 amplifying | |
放大,扩大( amplify的现在分词 ); 增强; 详述 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
100 discoursing | |
演说(discourse的现在分词形式) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
101 judiciously | |
adv.明断地,明智而审慎地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
102 retired | |
adj.隐退的,退休的,退役的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
欢迎访问英文小说网 |