On the 4th of November, 1827, I sailed from London, accompanied by my son and two daughters; and after a favourable1, though somewhat tedious voyage, arrived on Christmas-day at the mouth of the Mississippi.
The first indication of our approach to land was the appearance of this mighty2 river pouring forth3 its muddy mass of waters, and mingling5 with the deep blue of the Mexican Gulf6. The shores of this river are so utterly7 flat, that no object upon them is perceptible at sea, and we gazed with pleasure on the muddy ocean that met us, for it told us we were arrived, and seven weeks of sailing had wearied us; yet it was not without a feeling like regret that we passed from the bright blue waves, whose varying aspect had so long furnished our chief amusement, into the murky8 stream which now received us.
Large flights of pelicans9 were seen standing10 upon the long masses of mud which rose above the surface of the waters, and a pilot came to guide us over the bar, long before any other indication of land was visible.
I never beheld11 a scene so utterly desolate12 as this entrance of the Mississippi. Had Dante seen it, he might have drawn13 images of another Bolgia from its horrors. One only object rears itself above the eddying14 waters; this is the mast of a vessel15 long since wrecked16 in attempting to cross the bar, and it still stands, a dismal17 witness of the destruction that has been, and a boding18 prophet of that which is to come.
By degrees bulrushes of enormous growth become visible, and a few more miles of mud brought us within sight of a cluster of huts called the Balize, by far the most miserable19 station that I ever saw made the dwelling20 of man, but I was told that many families of pilots and fishermen lived there.
For several miles above its mouth, the Mississippi presents no objects more interesting than mud banks, monstrous21 bulrushes, and now and then a huge crocodile luxuriating in the slime. Another circumstance that gives to this dreary22 scene an aspect of desolation, is the incessant23 appearance of vast quantities of drift wood, which is ever finding its way to the different mouths of the Mississippi. Trees of enormous length, sometimes still bearing their branches, and still oftener their uptorn roots entire, the victims of the frequent hurricane, come floating down the stream. Sometimes several of these, entangled24 together, collect among their boughs25 a quantity of floating rubbish, that gives the mass the appearance of a moving island, bearing a forest, with its roots mocking the heavens; while the dishonoured26 branches lash27 the tide in idle vengeance28: this, as it approaches the vessel, and glides29 swiftly past, looks like the fragment of a world in ruins.
As we advanced, however, we were cheered, notwithstanding the season, by the bright tints30 of southern vegetation. The banks continue invariably flat, but a succession of planless villas31, sometimes merely a residence, and sometimes surrounded by their sugar grounds and negro huts, varied32 the scene. At no one point was there an inch of what painters call a second distance; and for the length of one hundred and twenty miles, from the Balize to New Orleans, and one hundred miles above the town, the land is defended from the encroachments of the river by a high embankment which is called the Levee; without which the dwellings33 would speedily disappear, as the river is evidently higher than the banks would be without it. When we arrived, there had been constant rains, and of long continuance, and this appearance was, therefore, unusually striking, giving to “this great natural feature” the most unnatural34 appearance imaginable; and making evident, not only that man had been busy there, but that even the mightiest35 works of nature might be made to bear his impress; it recalled, literally36, Swift’s mock heroic,
“Nature must give way to art;”
yet, she was looking so mighty, and so unsubdued all the time, that I could not help fancying she would some day take the matter into her own hands again, and if so, farewell to New Orleans.
It is easy to imagine the total want of beauty in such a landscape; but yet the form and hue37 of the trees and plants, so new to us, added to the long privation we had endured of all sights and sounds of land, made even these swampy38 shores seem beautiful. We were, however, impatient to touch as well as see the land; but the navigation from the Balize to New Orleans is difficult and tedious, and the two days that it occupied appeared longer than any we had passed on board.
In truth, to those who have pleasure in contemplating39 the phenomena40 of nature, a sea voyage may endure many weeks without wearying. Perhaps some may think that the first glance of ocean and of sky shew all they have to offer; nay41, even that that first glance may suggest more of dreariness42 than sublimity43; but to me, their variety appeared endless, and their beauty unfailing. The attempt to describe scenery, even where the objects are prominent and tangible44, is very rarely successful; but where the effect is so subtile and so varying, it must be vain. The impression, nevertheless, is perhaps deeper than any other; I think it possible I may forget the sensations with which I watched the long course of the gigantic Mississippi; the Ohio and the Potomac may mingle45 and be confounded with other streams in my memory, I may even recall with difficulty the blue outline of the Alleghany mountains, but never, while I remember any thing, can I forget the first and last hour of light on the Atlantic.
The ocean, however, and all its indescribable charm, no longer surrounded us; we began to feel that our walk on the quarter-deck was very like the exercise of an ass4 in a mill; that our books had lost half their pages, and that the other half were known by rote46; that our beef was very salt, and our biscuits very hard; in short, that having studied the good ship, Edward, from stem to stern till we knew the name of every sail, and the use of every pulley, we had had enough of her, and as we laid down, head to head, in our tiny beds for the last time, I exclaimed with no small pleasure,
“Tomorrow to fresh fields and pastures new.”
1 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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2 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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3 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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4 ass | |
n.驴;傻瓜,蠢笨的人 | |
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5 mingling | |
adj.混合的 | |
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6 gulf | |
n.海湾;深渊,鸿沟;分歧,隔阂 | |
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7 utterly | |
adv.完全地,绝对地 | |
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8 murky | |
adj.黑暗的,朦胧的;adv.阴暗地,混浊地;n.阴暗;昏暗 | |
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9 pelicans | |
n.鹈鹕( pelican的名词复数 ) | |
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10 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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11 beheld | |
v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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12 desolate | |
adj.荒凉的,荒芜的;孤独的,凄凉的;v.使荒芜,使孤寂 | |
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13 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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14 eddying | |
涡流,涡流的形成 | |
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15 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
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16 wrecked | |
adj.失事的,遇难的 | |
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17 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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18 boding | |
adj.凶兆的,先兆的n.凶兆,前兆,预感v.预示,预告,预言( bode的现在分词 );等待,停留( bide的过去分词 );居住;(过去式用bided)等待 | |
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19 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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20 dwelling | |
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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21 monstrous | |
adj.巨大的;恐怖的;可耻的,丢脸的 | |
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22 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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23 incessant | |
adj.不停的,连续的 | |
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24 entangled | |
adj.卷入的;陷入的;被缠住的;缠在一起的v.使某人(某物/自己)缠绕,纠缠于(某物中),使某人(自己)陷入(困难或复杂的环境中)( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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25 boughs | |
大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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26 dishonoured | |
a.不光彩的,不名誉的 | |
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27 lash | |
v.系牢;鞭打;猛烈抨击;n.鞭打;眼睫毛 | |
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28 vengeance | |
n.报复,报仇,复仇 | |
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29 glides | |
n.滑行( glide的名词复数 );滑音;音渡;过渡音v.滑动( glide的第三人称单数 );掠过;(鸟或飞机 ) 滑翔 | |
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30 tints | |
色彩( tint的名词复数 ); 带白的颜色; (淡色)染发剂; 痕迹 | |
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31 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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32 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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33 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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34 unnatural | |
adj.不自然的;反常的 | |
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35 mightiest | |
adj.趾高气扬( mighty的最高级 );巨大的;强有力的;浩瀚的 | |
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36 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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37 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
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38 swampy | |
adj.沼泽的,湿地的 | |
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39 contemplating | |
深思,细想,仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 ); 注视,凝视; 考虑接受(发生某事的可能性); 深思熟虑,沉思,苦思冥想 | |
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40 phenomena | |
n.现象 | |
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41 nay | |
adv.不;n.反对票,投反对票者 | |
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42 dreariness | |
沉寂,可怕,凄凉 | |
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43 sublimity | |
崇高,庄严,气质高尚 | |
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44 tangible | |
adj.有形的,可触摸的,确凿的,实际的 | |
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45 mingle | |
vt.使混合,使相混;vi.混合起来;相交往 | |
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46 rote | |
n.死记硬背,生搬硬套 | |
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