At length my wish of obtaining a house in the country was gratified. A very pretty cottage, the residence of a gentleman who was removing into town, for the convenience of his business as a lawyer, was to let, and I immediately secured it. It was situated1 in a little village about a mile and a half from the town, close to the foot of the hills formerly2 mentioned as the northern boundary of it. We found ourselves much more comfortable here than in the city. The house was pretty and commodious3, our sitting-rooms were cool and airy; we had got rid of the detestable mosquitoes, and we had an ice-house that never failed. Beside all this, we had the pleasure of gathering5 our tomatoes from our own garden, and receiving our milk from our own cow. Our manner of life was infinitely6 more to my taste than before; it gave us all the privileges of rusticity7, which are fully8 as incompatible9 with a residence in a little town of Western America as with a residence in London. We lived on terms of primaeval intimacy10 with our cow, for if we lay down on our lawn she did not scruple11 to take a sniff12 at the book we were reading, but then she gave us her own sweet breath in return. The verge13 of the cool-looking forest that rose opposite our windows was so near, that we often used it as an extra drawing-room, and there was no one to wonder if we went out with no other preparation than our parasols, carrying books and work enough to while away a long summer day in the shade; the meadow that divided us from it was covered with a fine short grass, that continued for a little way under the trees, making a beautiful carpet, while sundry14 logs and stumps15 furnished our sofas and tables. But even this was not enough to satisfy us when we first escaped from the city, and we determined16 upon having a day’s enjoyment17 of the wildest forest scenery we could find. So we packed up books, albums, pencils, and sandwiches, and, despite a burning sun, dragged up a hill so steep that we sometimes fancied we could rest ourselves against it by only leaning forward a little. In panting and in groaning18 we reached the top, hoping to be refreshed by the purest breath of heaven; but to have tasted the breath of heaven we must have climbed yet farther, even to the tops of the trees themselves, for we soon found that the air beneath them stirred not, nor ever had stirred, as it seemed to us, since first it settled there, so heavily did it weigh upon our lungs.
Still we were determined to enjoy ourselves, and forward we went, crunching19 knee deep through aboriginal20 leaves, hoping to reach some spot less perfectly21 airtight than our landing-place. Wearied with the fruitless search, we decided22 on reposing23 awhile on the trunk of a fallen tree; being all considerably24 exhausted25, the idea of sitting down on this tempting26 log was conceived and executed simultaneously27 by the whole party, and the whole party sunk together through its treacherous28 surface into a mass of rotten rubbish that had formed part of the pith and marrow29 of the eternal forest a hundred years before.
We were by no means the only sufferers by the accident; frogs, lizards30, locusts31, katiedids, beetles32, and hornets, had the whole of their various tenements33 disturbed, and testified their displeasure very naturally by annoying us as much as possible in return; we were bit, we were stung, we were scratched; and when, at last, we succeeded in raising ourselves from the venerable ruin, we presented as woeful a spectacle as can well be imagined. We shook our (not ambrosial) garments, and panting with heat, stings, and vexation, moved a few paces from the scene of our misfortune, and again sat down; but this time it was upon the solid earth.
We had no sooner began to “chew the cud” of the bitter fancy that had beguiled34 us to these mountain solitudes35 than a new annoyance36 assailed37 us. A cloud of mosquitoes gathered round, and while each sharp proboscis38 sucked our blood, they teased us with their humming chorus, till we lost all patience, and started again on our feet, pretty firmly resolved never to try the al fresco39 joys of an American forest again. The sun was now in its meridian40 splendour, but our homeward path was short and down hill, so again packing up our preparations for felicity, we started homeward, or, more properly speaking, we started, for in looking for an agreeable spot in this dungeon41 forest we had advanced so far from the verge of the hill that we had lost all trace of the precise spot where we had entered it. Nothing was to be seen but multitudes of tall, slender, melancholy42 stems, as like as peas, and standing43 within a foot of each other. The ground, as far as the eye could reach (which certainly was not far), was covered with an unvaried bed of dried leaves; no trace, no track, no trail, as Mr. Cooper would call it, gave us a hint which way to turn; and having paused for a moment to meditate44, we remembered that chance must decide for us at last, so we set forward, in no very good mood, to encounter new misfortunes. We walked about a quarter of a mile, and coming to a steep descent, we thought ourselves extremely fortunate, and began to scramble45 down, nothing doubting that it was the same we had scrambled46 up. In truth, nothing could be more like, but, alas47! things that are like are not the same; when we had slipped and stumbled down to the edge of the wood, and were able to look beyond it, we saw no pretty cottage with the shadow of its beautiful acacias coming forward to meet us: all was different; and, what was worse, all was distant from the spot where we had hoped to be. We had come down the opposite side of the ridge48, and had now to win our weary way a distance of three miles round its base, I believe we shall none of us ever forget that walk. The bright, glowing, furnace-like heat of the atmosphere seems to scorch49 as I recall it. It was painful to tread, it was painful to breathe, it was painful to look round; every object glowed with the reflection of the fierce tyrant50 that glared upon us from above.
We got home alive, which agreeably surprised us; and when our parched51 tongues again found power of utterance52, we promised each other faithfully never to propose any more parties of pleasure in the grim store-like forests of Ohio.
We were now in daily expectation of the arrival of Mr. T.; but day after day, and week after week passed by till we began to fear some untoward53 circumstance might delay his coming till the Spring; at last, when we had almost ceased to look out for him. on the road which led from the town, he arrived, late at night, by that which leads across the country from Pitzburgh. The pleasure we felt at seeing him was greatly increased by his bringing with him our eldest54 son, which was a happiness we had not hoped for. Our walks and our drives now became doubly interesting. The young men, fresh from a public school, found America so totally unlike all the nations with which their reading had made them acquainted, that it was indeed a new world to them. Had they visited Greece or Rome they would have encountered objects with whose images their minds had been long acquainted; or had they travelled to France or Italy they would have seen only what daily conversation had already rendered familiar; but at our public schools America (except perhaps as to her geographical55 position) is hardly better known than Fairy Land; and the American character has not been much more deeply studied than that of the Anthropophagi: all, therefore, was new, and every thing amusing.
The extraordinary familiarity of our poor neighbours startled us at first, and we hardly knew how to receive their uncouth56 advances, or what was expected of us in return; however, it sometimes produced very laughable scenes. Upon one occasion two of my children set off upon an exploring walk up the hills; they were absent rather longer than we expected, and the rest of our party determined upon going out to meet them; we knew the direction they had taken, but thought it would be as well to enquire57 at a little public-house at the bottom of the hill, if such a pair had been seen to pass. A woman, whose appearance more resembled a Covent Garden market-woman than any thing else I can remember, came out and answered my question with the most jovial58 good humour in the affirmative, and prepared to join us in our search. Her look, her voice, her manner, were so exceedingly coarse and vehement59, that she almost frightened me; she passed her arm within mine, and to the inexpressible amusement of my young people, she dragged me on, talking and questioning me without ceasing. She lived but a short distance from us, and I am sure intended to be a very good neighbour; but her violent intimacy made me dread60 to pass her door; my children, including my sons, she always addressed by their Christian61 names, excepting when she substituted the word “honey;” this familiarity of address, however, I afterwards found was universal throughout all ranks in the United States.
My general appellation62 amongst my neighbours was “the English old woman,” but in mentioning each other they constantly employed the term “lady;” and they evidently had a pleasure in using it, for I repeatedly observed, that in speaking of a neighbour, instead of saying Mrs. Such-a-one, they described her as “the lady over the way what takes in washing,” or as “that there lady, out by the Gulley, what is making dip-candles.” Mr. Trollope was as constantly called “the old man,” while draymen, butchers’ boys, and the labourers on the canal were invariably denominated “them gentlemen;” nay63, we once saw one of the most gentlemanlike men in Cincinnati introduce a fellow in dirty shirt sleeves, and all sorts of detestable et cetera, to one of his friends, with this formula, “D— let me introduce this gentleman to you.” Our respective titles certainly were not very important; but the eternal shaking hands with these ladies and gentlemen was really an annoyance, and the more so, as the near approach of the gentlemen was always redolent of whiskey and tobacco.
But the point where this republican equality was the most distressing64 was in the long and frequent visitations that it produced. No one dreams of fastening a door in Western America; I was told that it would be considered as an affront65 by the whole neighbourhood. I was thus exposed to perpetual, and most vexatious interruptions from people whom I had often never seen, and whose names still oftener were unknown to me.
Those who are native there, and to the manner born, seem to pass over these annoyances66 with more skill than I could ever acquire. More than once I have seen some of my acquaintance beset67 in the same way, without appearing at all distressed68 by it; they continued their employment or conversation with me, much as if no such interruption had taken place; when the visitor entered, they would say, “How do you do?” and shake hands.
“Tolerable, I thank ye, how be you?” was the reply.
If it was a female, she took off her hat; if a male, he kept it on, and then taking possession of the first chair in their way, they would retain it for an hour together, without uttering another word; at length, rising abruptly69, they would again shake hands, with, “Well, now I must be going, I guess,” and so take themselves off, apparently70 well contented71 with their reception.
I could never attain72 this philosophical73 composure; I could neither write nor read, and I always fancied I must talk to them. I will give the minutes of a conversation which I once set down after one of their visits, as a specimen74 of their tone and manner of speaking and thinking. My visitor was a milkman.
“Well now, so you be from the old country? Ay — you’ll see sights here, I guess.”
“I hope I shall see many.”
“That’s a fact. I expect your little place of an island don’t grow such dreadful fine corn as you sees here?” [Corn always means Indian corn, or maize75.]
“It grows no corn at all, sir.’”
“Possible! no wonder, then, that we reads such awful stories in the papers of your poor people being starved to death.”
“We have wheat, however.”
“Ay, for your rich folks, but I calculate the poor seldom gets a belly76 full.”
“You have certainly much greater abundance here.”
“I expect so. Why they do say, that if a poor body contrives77 to be smart enough to scrape together a few dollars, that your King George always comes down upon ’em, and takes it all away. Don’t he?”
“I do not remember hearing of such a transaction.”
“I guess they be pretty close about it. Your papers ben’t like ourn, I reckon? Now we says and prints just what we likes.”
“You spend a good deal of time in reading the newspapers.”
“And I’d like you to tell me how we can spend it better. How should freemen spend their time, but looking after their government, and watching that them fellers as we gives offices to, doos their duty, and gives themselves no airs?”
“But I sometimes think, sir, that your fences might be in more thorough repair, and your roads in better order, if less time was spent in politics.”
“The Lord! to see how little you knows of a free country? Why, what’s the smoothness of a road, put against the freedom of a free-born American? And what does a broken zig-zag signify, comparable to knowing that the men what we have been pleased to send up to Congress, speaks handsome and straight, as we chooses they should?”
“It is from a sense of duty, then, that you all go to the liquor store to read the papers?”
“To be sure it is, and he’d be no true born American as didn’t. I don’t say that the father of a family should always be after liquor, but I do say that I’d rather have my son drunk three times in a week, than not look after the affairs of his country.”
Our autumn walks were delightful78; the sun ceased to scorch; the want of flowers was no longer peculiar79 to Ohio; and the trees took a colouring, which in richness, brilliance80, and variety, exceeded all description. I think it is the maple81, or sugar-tree, that first sprinkles the forest with rich crimson82; the beech83 follows, with all its harmony of golden tints84, from pale yellow up to brightest orange. The dog-wood gives almost the purple colour of the mulberry; the chesnut softens85 all with its frequent mass of delicate brown, and the sturdy oak carries its deep green into the very lap of winter. These tints are too bright for the landscape painter; the attempt to follow nature in an American autumn scene must be abortive86. The colours are in reality extremely brilliant, but the medium through which they are seen increases the effect surprisingly. Of all the points in which America has the advantage of England, the one I felt most sensibly was the clearness and brightness of the atmosphere. By day and by night this exquisite87 purity of air gives tenfold beauty to every object. I could hardly believe the stars were the same; the Great Bear looked like a constellation88 of suns; and Jupiter justified89 all the fine things said of him in those beautiful lines from I know not what spirited pen, beginning,
“I looked on thee, Jove! till my gaze
Shrunk, smote90 by the pow’r of thy blaze.”
I always remarked that the first silver line of the moon’s crescent attracted the eye on the first day, in America, as strongly as it does here on the third. I observed another phenomenon in the crescent moon of that region, the cause of which I less understood. That appearance which Shakespear describes as “the new moon, with the old moon in her lap,” and which I have heard ingeniously explained as the effect of earth light, was less visible there than here.
Cuyp’s clearest landscapes have an atmosphere that approaches nearer to that of America than any I remember on canvas; but even Cuyp’s air cannot reach the lungs, and, therefore, can only give an idea of half the enjoyment; for it makes itself felt as well as seen, and is indeed a constant source of pleasure.
Our walks were, however, curtailed91 in several directions by my old Cincinnati enemies, the pigs; immense droves of them were continually arriving from the country by the road that led to most of our favourite walks; they were often fed and lodged92 in the prettiest valleys,and worse still, were slaughtered93 beside the prettiest streams. Another evil threatened us from the same quarter, that was yet heavier. Our cottage had an ample piazza95, (a luxury almost universal in the country houses of America), which, shaded by a group of acacias, made a delightful sitting-room4; from this favourite spot we one day perceived symptoms of building in a field close to it; with much anxiety we hastened to the spot, and asked what building was to be erected96 there.
“’Tis to be a slaughter94 house for hogs97,” was the dreadful reply. As there were several gentlemen’s houses in the neighbourhood, I asked if such an erection might not be indicted98 as a nuisance.
“A what?”
“A nuisance,” I repeated, and explained what I meant.
“No, no,” was the reply, “that may do very well for your tyrannical country, where a rich man’s nose is more thought of than a poor man’s mouth; but hogs be profitable produce here, and we be too free for such a law as that, I guess.”
During my residence in America, little circumstances like the foregoing often recalled to my mind a conversation I once held in France with an old gentleman on the subject of their active police, and its omnipresent gens d’armerie; “Croyez moi, Madame, il n’y a que ceux, à qui ils ont à faire, qui les trouvent de trop.” And the old gentleman was right, not only in speaking of France, but of the whole human family, as philosophers call us. The well disposed, those whose own feeling of justice would prevent their annoying others, will never complain of the restraints of the law. All the freedom enjoyed in America, beyond what is enjoyed in England, is enjoyed solely99 by the disorderly at the expense of the orderly; and were I a stout100 knight101, either of the sword or of the pen, I would fearlessly throw down my gauntlet, and challenge the whole Republic to prove the contrary; but being, as I am, a feeble looker on, with a needle for my spear, and “I talk” for my device, I must be contented with the power of stating the fact, perfectly certain that I shall be contradicted by one loud shout from Maine to Georgia.
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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commodious
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| adj.宽敞的；使用方便的 | |
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sitting-room
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| n.（BrE）客厅，起居室 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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infinitely
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| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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rusticity
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| n.乡村的特点、风格或气息 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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incompatible
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| adj.不相容的，不协调的，不相配的 | |
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intimacy
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| n.熟悉，亲密，密切关系，亲昵的言行 | |
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scruple
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| n./v.顾忌，迟疑 | |
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sniff
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| vi.嗅…味道；抽鼻涕；对嗤之以鼻，蔑视 | |
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verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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sundry
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| adj.各式各样的，种种的 | |
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stumps
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| （被砍下的树的）树桩( stump的名词复数 )； 残肢； （板球三柱门的）柱； 残余部分 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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groaning
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| adj. 呜咽的, 呻吟的 动词groan的现在分词形式 | |
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crunching
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| v.嘎吱嘎吱地咬嚼( crunch的现在分词 )；嘎吱作响；（快速大量地）处理信息；数字捣弄 | |
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aboriginal
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| adj.（指动植物）土生的，原产地的，土著的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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reposing
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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marrow
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| n.骨髓；精华；活力 | |
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lizards
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| n.蜥蜴( lizard的名词复数 ) | |
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locusts
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| n.蝗虫( locust的名词复数 )；贪吃的人；破坏者；槐树 | |
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beetles
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| n.甲虫( beetle的名词复数 ) | |
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tenements
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| n.房屋，住户，租房子( tenement的名词复数 ) | |
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beguiled
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| v.欺骗( beguile的过去式和过去分词 )；使陶醉；使高兴；消磨（时间等） | |
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solitudes
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| n.独居( solitude的名词复数 )；孤独；荒僻的地方；人迹罕至的地方 | |
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annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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assailed
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| v.攻击( assail的过去式和过去分词 )；困扰；质问；毅然应对 | |
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proboscis
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| n.（象的）长鼻 | |
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fresco
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| n.壁画；vt.作壁画于 | |
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meridian
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| adj.子午线的；全盛期的 | |
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dungeon
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| n.地牢，土牢 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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meditate
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| v.想，考虑，（尤指宗教上的）沉思，冥想 | |
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scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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scrambled
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的过去式和过去分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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scorch
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| v.烧焦，烤焦；高速疾驶；n.烧焦处，焦痕 | |
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tyrant
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| n.暴君，专制的君主，残暴的人 | |
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parched
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| adj.焦干的；极渴的；v.（使）焦干 | |
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utterance
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| n.用言语表达，话语，言语 | |
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untoward
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| adj.不利的，不幸的，困难重重的 | |
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eldest
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| adj.最年长的，最年老的 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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enquire
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| v.打听，询问；调查，查问 | |
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jovial
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| adj.快乐的，好交际的 | |
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vehement
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| adj.感情强烈的；热烈的；(人)有强烈感情的 | |
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dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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appellation
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| n.名称，称呼 | |
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nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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distressing
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| a.使人痛苦的 | |
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affront
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| n./v.侮辱，触怒 | |
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annoyances
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| n.恼怒( annoyance的名词复数 )；烦恼；打扰；使人烦恼的事 | |
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beset
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| v.镶嵌；困扰，包围 | |
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distressed
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| 痛苦的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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philosophical
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| adj.哲学家的，哲学上的，达观的 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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belly
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| n.肚子，腹部；(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分，膛 | |
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contrives
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| （不顾困难地）促成某事( contrive的第三人称单数 )； 巧妙地策划，精巧地制造（如机器）； 设法做到 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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brilliance
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| n.光辉，辉煌，壮丽，（卓越的）才华，才智 | |
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maple
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| n.槭树，枫树，槭木 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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beech
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| n.山毛榉；adj.山毛榉的 | |
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tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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softens
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| （使）变软( soften的第三人称单数 )； 缓解打击； 缓和； 安慰 | |
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abortive
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| adj.不成功的，发育不全的 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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constellation
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| n.星座n.灿烂的一群 | |
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justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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smote
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| v.猛打，重击，打击( smite的过去式 ) | |
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curtailed
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| v.截断，缩短( curtail的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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slaughtered
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| v.屠杀，杀戮，屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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slaughter
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| n.屠杀，屠宰；vt.屠杀，宰杀 | |
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piazza
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| n.广场；走廊 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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hogs
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| n.（尤指喂肥供食用的）猪( hog的名词复数 )；（供食用的）阉公猪；彻底地做某事；自私的或贪婪的人 | |
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indicted
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| 控告，起诉( indict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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