Journey to New York — Delaware River — Stagecoach1 — City of New York — Collegiate Institute for Young Ladies — Theatres — Public Garden — Churches — Morris Canal — Fashions — Carriages
At length, in spite of the lingering pace necessarily attending consultations2, and arrangements across the Atlantic, our plans were finally settled; the coming spring was to show us New York, and Niagara, and the early summer was to convey us home.
No sooner did the letter arrive which decided3 this, than we began our preparations for departure. We took our last voyage on the Potomac, we bade a last farewell to Virginia, and gave a last day to some of our kind friends near Washington.
The spring, though slow and backward, was sufficiently4 advanced to render the journey pleasant; and though the road from Washington to Baltimore was less brilliant in foliage5 than when I had seen it before, it still had much of beauty. The azalias were in full bloom, and the delicate yellow blossom of the sassafras almost rivalled its fruit in beauty.
At Baltimore we again embarked6 on a gigantic steam-boat, and reached Philadelphia in the middle of the night. Here we changed our boat and found time, before starting in the morning, to take a last look at the Doric and Corinthian porticos of the two celebrated7 temples dedicated8 to Mammon.
The Delaware river, above Philadelphia, still flows through a landscape too level for beauty, but it is rendered interesting by a succession of gentlemen’s seats, which, if less elaborately finished in architecture, and garden grounds, than the lovely villas9 on the Thames, are still beautiful objects to gaze upon as you float rapidly past on the broad silvery stream that washes their lawns They present a picture of wealth and enjoyment11 that accords well with the noble city to which they are an appendage12. One mansion13 arrested our attention, not only from its being more than usually large and splendid, but from its having the monument which marked the family resting-place, rearing itself in all the gloomy grandeur14 of black and white marble, exactly opposite the door of entrance.
In Virginia and Maryland we had remarked that almost every family mansion had its little grave yard, sheltered by locust15 and cypress16 trees; but this decorated dwelling17 of the dead seemed rather a melancholy18 ornament19 in the grounds.
We had, for a considerable distance, a view of the dwelling of Joseph Bonaparte, which is situated20 on the New Jersey21 shore, in the midst of an extensive tract22 of land, of which he is the proprietor23.
Here the ex-monarch has built several houses, which are occupied by French tenants24. The country is very flat, but a terrace of two sides has been raised, commanding a fine reach of the Delaware River; at the point where this terrace forms a right angle, a lofty chapel25 has been erected26, which looks very much like an observatory27; I admired the ingenuity28 with which the Catholic prince has united his religion and his love of a fine terrestrial prospect29. The highest part of the building presents, in every direction, the appearance of an immense cross; the transept, if I may so express it, being formed by the projection30 of an ample balcony, which surrounds a tower. A Quaker gentleman, from Philadelphia, exclaimed, as he gazed on the mansion, “There we see a monument of fallen royalty31! Strange! that dethroned kings should seek and find their best strong-hold in a Republic.”
There was more of philosophy than of scorn in his accent, and his countenance32 was the symbol of gentleness and benevolence33; but I overheard many unquakerlike jokes from others, as to the comfortable assurance a would-be king must feel of a faithful alliance between his head and shoulders.
At Trenton, the capital of New Jersey, we left our smoothly-gliding comfortable boat for the most detestable stage-coach that ever Christian34 built to dislocate the joints35 of his fellow men. Ten of these torturing machines were crammed36 full of the passengers who left the boat with us. The change in our movement was not more remarkable37 than that which took place in the tempers and countenances38 of our fellow-travellers. Gentlemen who had lounged on sofas, and balanced themselves in chairs, all the way from Philadelphia, with all the conscious fascinations39 of stiff stays and neck-cloths, which, while doing to death the rash beauties who ventured to gaze, seemed but a whalebone panoply40 to guard the wearer, these pretty youths so guarded from without, so sweetly at peace within, now crushed beneath their armour41, looked more like victims on the wheel, than dandies armed for conquest; their whalebones seemed to enter into their souls, and every face grew grim and scowling42. The pretty ladies too, with their expansive bonnets43, any one of which might handsomely have filled the space allotted44 to three, — how sad the change! I almost fancied they must have been of the race of Undine, and that it was only when they heard the splashing of water that they could smile. As I looked into the altered eyes of my companions, I was tempted45 to ask, “Look I as cross as you?” Indeed, I believe that, if possible, I looked crosser still, for the roads and the vehicle together were quite too much for my philosophy.
At length, however, we found ourselves alive on board the boat which was to convey us down the Raraton River to New York.
We fully46 intended to have gone to bed, to heal our bones, on entering the steam-boat, but the sight of a table neatly47 spread determined48 us to go to dinner instead. Sin and shame would it have been, indeed, to have closed our eyes upon the scene which soon opened before us. I have never seen the bay of Naples, I can therefore make no comparison, but my imagination is incapable49 of conceiving any thing of the kind more beautiful than the harbour of New York. Various and lovely are the objects which meet the eye on every side, but the naming them would only be to give a list of words, without conveying the faintest idea of the scene. I doubt if ever the pencil of Turner could do it justice, bright and glorious as it rose upon us. We seemed to enter the harbour of New York upon waves of liquid gold, and as we darted50 past the green isles51 which rise from its bosom52, like guardian53 centinels of the fair city, the setting sun stretched his horizontal beams farther and farther at each moment, as if to point out to us some new glory in the landscape.
New York, indeed, appeared to us, even when we saw it by a soberer light, a lovely and a noble city. To us who had been so long travelling through half-cleared forests, and sojourning among an “I’m-as-good-as-you” population, it seemed, perhaps, more beautiful, more splendid, and more refined than it might have done, had we arrived there directly from London; but making every allowance for this, I must still declare that I think New York one of the finest cities I ever saw, and as much superior to every other in the Union (Philadelphia not excepted), as London to Liverpool, or Paris to Rouen. Its advantages of position are, perhaps, unequalled any where. Situated on an island, which I think it will one day cover, it rises, like Venice, from the sea, and like that fairest of cities in the days of her glory, receives into its lap tribute of all the riches of the earth.
The southern point of Manhatten Island divides the waters of the harbour into the north and east rivers; on this point stands the city of New York, extending from river to river, and running northward54 to the extent of three or four miles. I think it covers nearly as much ground as Paris, but is much less thickly peopled. The extreme point is fortified55 towards the sea by a battery, and forms an admirable point of defence; I should suppose, no city could boast. From hence commences the splendid Broadway, as the fine avenue is called, which runs through the whole city. This noble street may vie with any I ever saw, for its length and breadth, its handsome shops, neat awnings56, excellent trottoir, and well-dressed pedestrians57. It has not the crowded glitter of Bond Street equipages, nor the gorgeous fronted palaces of Regent Street; but it is magnificent in its extent, and ornamented58 by several handsome buildings, some of them surrounded by grass and trees. The Park, in which stands the noble city-hall, is a very fine area, I never found that the most graphic59 description of a city could give me any feeling of being there; and even if others have the power, I am very sure I have not, of setting churches and squares, and long drawn60 streets, before the mind’s eye. I will not, therefore, attempt a detailed61 description of this great metropolis62 of the new world, but will only say that during the seven weeks we stayed there, we always found something new to see and to admire; and were it not so very far from all the old-world things which cling about the heart of an European, I should say that I never saw a city more desirable as a residence.
The dwelling houses of the higher classes are extremely handsome, and very richly furnished. Silk or satin furniture is as often, or oftener, seen than chintz; the mirrors are as handsome as in London; the cheffoniers, slabs63, and marble tables as elegant; and in addition, they have all the pretty tasteful decoration of French porcelaine, and or-molu in much greater abundance, because at a much cheaper rate. Every part of their houses is well carpeted, and the exterior64 finishing, such as steps, railings, and door-frames, are very superior. Almost every house has handsome green blinds on the outside; balconies are not very general, nor do the houses display, externally, so many flowers as those of Paris and London; but I saw many rooms decorated within, exactly like those of an European petite maitresse. Little tables, looking and smelling like flower beds, portfolios65, nick-nacks, bronzes, busts66, cameos, and alabaster67 vases, illustrated68 copies of ladylike rhymes bound in silk, and, in short, all the pretty coxcomalities of the drawing-room scattered69 about with the same profuse70 and studied negligence71 as with us.
Hudson Square and its neighbourhood is, I believe, the most fashionable part of the town; the square is beautiful, excellently well planted with a great variety of trees, and only wanting our frequent and careful mowing72 to make it equal to any square in London. The iron railing which surrounds this enclosure is as high and as handsome as that of the Tuilleries, and it will give some idea of the care bestowed73 on its decoration, to know that the gravel74 for the walks was conveyed by barges75 from Boston, not as ballast, but as freight.
The great defect in the houses is their extreme uniformity when you have seen one, you have seen all. Neither do I quite like the arrangement of the rooms. In nearly all the houses the dining and drawing rooms are on the same floor, with ample folding doors between them; when thrown together they certainly make a very noble apartment; but no doors can be barrier sufficient between dining and drawing-rooms. Mixed dinner parties of ladies and gentlemen, however, are very rare, which is a great defect in the society; not only as depriving them of the most social and hospitable76 manner of meeting, but as leading to frequent dinner parties of gentlemen without ladies, which certainly does not conduce to refinement77.
The evening parties, excepting such as are expressly for young people, are chiefly conversational78; we were too late in the season for large parties, but we saw enough to convince us that there is society to be met with in New York, which would be deemed delightful79 any where. Cards are very seldom used; and music, from their having very little professional aid at their parties is seldom, I believe, as good as what is heard at private concerts in London.
The Americans have certainly not the same besoin of being amused, as other people; they may be the wiser for this, perhaps, but it makes them less agreeable to a looker-on.
There are three theatres at New York, all of which we visited. The Park Theatre is the only one licensed80 by fashion, but the Bowery is infinitely81 superior in beauty; it is indeed as pretty a theatre as I ever entered, perfect as to size and proportion, elegantly decorated, and the scenery and machinery82 equal to any in London, but it is not the fashion. The Chatham is so utterly83 condemned84 by bon ton, that it requires some courage to decide upon going there; nor do I think my curiosity would have penetrated85 so far, had I not seen Miss Mitford’s Rienzi advertised there. It was the first opportunity I had had of seeing it played, and spite of very indifferent acting86, I was delighted. The interest must have been great, for till the curtain fell, I saw not one quarter of the queer things around me: then I observed in the front row of a dress-box a lady performing the most maternal87 office possible; several gentlemen without their coats, and a general air of contempt for the decencies of life, certainly more than usually revolting.
At the Park Theatre I again saw the American Roscius, Mr. Forrest. He played the part of Damon, and roared, I thought, very unlike a nightingale. I cannot admire this celebrated performer.
Another night we saw Cinderella there; Mrs. Austin was the prima donna, and much admired. The piece was extremely well got up, and on this occasion we saw the Park Theatre to advantage, for it was filled with well-dressed company; but still we saw many “yet unrazored lips” polluted with the grim tinge88 of the hateful tobacco, and heard, without ceasing, the spitting, which of course is its consequence. If their theatres had the orchestra of the Feydeau, and a choir89 of angels to boot, I could find but little pleasure, so long as they were followed by this running accompaniment of thorough base.
Whilst at New York, the prospectus90 of a fashionable boarding-school was presented to me. I made some extracts from it, as a specimen91 of the enlarged scale of instruction proposed for young females.
Brooklyn Collegiate Institute
for Young Ladies,
Brooklyn Heights, opposite the City of
New York.
JUNIOR DEPARTMENT
Sixth Class
Latin Grammar, Liber Primus; Jacob’s Latin Reader, (first part); Modern Geography; Intellectual and Practical Arithmetic finished; Dr. Barber’s Grammar of Elocution; Writing, Spelling, Composition, and Vocal92 Music.
Fifth Class
Jacob’s Latin Reader, (second part); Roman Antiquities93, Sallust; Clark’s Introduction to the Making of Latin; Ancient and Sacred Geography; Studies of Poetry; Short Treatise94 on Rhetoric95; Map Drawing, Composition, Spelling, and Vocal Music.
Fourth Class
Caesar’s Commentaries; first five books of Virgil’s Aeneid; Mythology96; Watts97 on the Mind; Political Geography, (Woodbridge’s large work); Natural History; Treatise on the Globes; Ancient History; Studies of Poetry concluded; English Grammar, Composition, Spelling, and Vocal Music.
SENIOR DEPARTMENT
Third Class
Virgil, (finished); Cicero’s Select Orations98; Modern History; Plane Geometry; Moral Philosophy; Critical Reading of Young’s Poems; Perspective Drawing; Rhetoric; Logic99, Composition, and Vocal Music.
Second Class
Livy; Horace, (Odes); Natural Theology; small Compend of Ecclesiastical History; Female Biography; Algebra100; Natural Philosophy, (Mechanics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, and Acoustics); Intellectual Philosophy; Evidences of Christianity; Composition, and Vocal Music.
First Class
Horace, (finished); Tacitus; Natural Philosophy, (Electricity, Optics, Magnetism101, Galvanism); Astronomy, Chemistry, Mineralogy, and Geology; Compend of Political Economy; Composition, and Vocal Music.
The French, Spanish, Italian, or Greek languages may be attended to, if required, at any time.
The Exchange is very handsome, and ranks about midway between the heavy gloom that hangs over our London merchants, and the light and lofty elegance102 which decorates the Bourse at Paris. The churches are plain, but very neat, and kept in perfect repair within and without; but I saw none which had the least pretension103 to splendour; the Catholic Cathedral at Baltimore is the only church in America which has.
At New York, as every where else, they show within, during the time of service, like beds of tulips, so gay, so bright, so beautiful, are the long rows of French bonnets and pretty faces; rows but rarely broken by the unribboned heads of the male population; the proportion is about the same as I have remarked elsewhere. Excepting at New York, I never saw the other side of the picture, but there I did. On the opposite side of the North River, about three miles higher up, is a place called Hoboken. A gentleman who possessed104 a handsome mansion and grounds there, also possessed the right of ferry, and to render this productive, he has restricted his pleasure grounds to a few beautiful acres, laying out the remainder simply and tastefully as a public walk. It is hardly possible to imagine one of greater attraction; a broad belt of light underwood and flowering shrubs105, studded at intervals106 with lofty forest trees, runs for two miles along a cliff which overhangs the matchless Hudson; sometimes it feathers the rocks down to its very margin107, and at others leaves a pebbly108 shore, just rude enough to break the gentle waves, and make a music which mimics109 softly the loud chorus of the ocean. Through this beautiful little wood, a broad well gravelled terrace is led by every point which can exhibit the scenery to advantage; narrower and wilder paths diverge110 at intervals, some into the deeper shadow of the wood, and some shelving gradually to the pretty coves111 below.
The price of entrance to this little Eden, is the six cents you pay at the ferry. We went there on a bright Sunday afternoon, expressly to see the humours of the place. Many thousand persons were scattered through the grounds; of these we ascertained112, by repeatedly counting, that nineteen-twentieths were men. The ladies were at church. Often as the subject has pressed upon my mind, I think I never so strongly felt the conviction that the Sabbath-day, the holy day, the day on which alone the great majority of the Christian world can spend their hours as they please, is ill passed (if passed entirely113) within brick walls, listening to an earth-born preacher, charm he never so wisely.
“Oh! how can they renounce114 the boundless115 store
Of charms, which Nature to her vot’ries yields!
The warbling woodland, the resounding116 shore,
The pomp of groves117, and garniture of fields,
All that the genial118 ray of morning gilds119,
And all that echoes to the song of even,
All that the mountain’s sheltering bosom yields,
And all the dread120 magnificence of heaven;
Oh! how can they renounce, and hope to be forgiven!”
How is it that the men of America, who are reckoned good husbands and good fathers, while they themselves enjoy sufficient freedom of spirit to permit their walking forth121 into the temple of the living God, can leave those they love best on earth, bound in the iron chains of a most tyrannical fanaticism122? How can they breathe the balmy air, and not think of the tainted123 atmosphere so heavily weighing upon breasts still dearer than their own? How can they gaze upon the blossoms of the spring, and not remember the fairer cheeks of their young daughters, waxing pale, as they sit for long sultry hours, immured124 with hundreds of fellow victims, listening to the roaring vanities of a preacher canonized by a college of old women? They cannot think it needful to salvation,or they would not withdraw themselves. Wherefore is it? Do they fear these self-elected, self-ordained priests, and offer up their wives and daughters to propitiate125 them? Or do they deem their hebdomadal freedom more complete, because their wives and daughters are shut up four or five times in the day at church or chapel? It is true, that at Hoboken, as every where else, there are reposoires, which, as you pass them, blast the sense for a moment, by reeking126 forth the fumes127 of whiskey and tobacco, and it may be that these cannot be entered with a wife or daughter. The proprietor of the grounds, however, has contrived128 with great taste to render these abominations not unpleasing to the eye; there is one in particular, which has quite the air of a Grecian temple, and did they drink wine instead of whiskey, it might be inscribed129 to Bacchus; but in this particular, as in many others, the ancient and modern Republics differ.
It is impossible not to feel, after passing one Sunday in the churches and chapels130 of New York, and the next in the gardens of Hoboken, that the thousands of well-dressed men you see enjoying themselves at the latter, have made over the thousands of well-dressed women you saw exhibited at the former, into the hands of the priests, at least, for the day. The American people arrogate131 to themselves a character of superior morality and religion, but this division of their hours of leisure does not give me a favourable132 idea of either.
I visited all the exhibitions in New York. The Medici of the Republic must exert themselves a little more before these can become even respectable. The worst of the business is, that with the exception of about half a dozen individuals, the good citizens are more than contented133, they are delighted.
The newspaper lungs of the Republic breathe forth praise and triumph, may, almost pant with extacy in speaking of their native chef d’oeuvres. I should be hardly believed were I to relate the instances which fell in my way, of the utter ignorance respecting pictures to be found among persons of the first standing134 in society. Often where a liberal spirit exists, and a wish to patronise the fine arts is expressed, it is joined to a profundity135 of ignorance on the subject almost inconceivable. A doubt as to the excellence136 of their artists is very nervously137 received, and one gentleman, with much civility, told me, that at the present era, all the world were aware that competition was pretty well at an end between our two nations, and that a little envy might naturally be expected to mix with the surprise with which the mother country beheld138 the distance at which her colonies were leaving her behind them.
I must, however, do the few artists with whom I became acquainted, the justice to say, that their own pretensions139 are much more modest than those of their patrons for them. I have heard several confess and deplore140 their ignorance of drawing, and have repeatedly remarked a sensibility to the merit of European artists, though perhaps only known by engravings, and a deference141 to their authority, which showed a genuine feeling for the art. In fact, I think that there is a very considerable degree of natural talent for painting in America, but it has to make its way through darkness and thick night. When an academy is founded, their first care is to hang the walls of its exhibition room with all the unutterable trash that is offered to them. No living models are sought for; no discipline as to the manner of study is enforced. Boys who know no more of human form, than they do of the eyes, nose, and mouth in the moon, begin painting portraits. If some of them would only throw away their palettes for a year, and learn to draw; if they would attend anatomical lectures, and take notes, not in words, but in forms, of joints and muscles, their exhibitions would soon cease to be so utterly below criticism.
The most interesting exhibition open when I was there was, decidedly, Colonel Trumbold’s; and how the patriots142 of America can permit this truly national collection to remain a profitless burden on the hands of the artist, it is difficult to understand. Many of the sketches143 are masterly; but like his illustrious countryman, West, his sketches are his chef d’oeuvres.
I can imagine nothing more perfect than the interior of the public institutions of New York. There is a practical good sense in all their arrangements that must strike foreigners very forcibly. The Asylum144 for the Destitute145 offers a hint worth taking. It is dedicated to the reformation of youthful offenders146 of both sexes, and it is as admirable in the details of its management, as in its object. Every part of the institution is deeply interesting; but there is a difference very remarkable between the boys and the girls. The boys are, I think, the finest set of lads I ever saw brought together; bright looking, gay, active, and full of intelligence. The girls are exactly in reverse; heavy, listless, indifferent, and melancholy. In conversing147 with the gentleman who is the general superintendant of the establishment, I made the remark to him, and he told me, that the reality corresponded with the appearance. All of them had been detected in some act of dishonesty; but the boys, when removed from the evil influence which had led them so to use their ingenuity, rose like a spring when a pressure is withdrawn148; and feeling themselves once more safe from danger and from shame, hope and cheerfulness animated149 every countenance. But the pour girls, on the contrary, can hardly look up again. They are as different as an oak and a lily after a storm. The one, when the fresh breeze blows over it, shakes the raindrops from its crest150, and only looks the brighter; the other, its silken leaves once soiled, shrinks from the eye, and is levelled to the earth for ever.
We spent a delightful day in New Jersey, in visiting, with a most agreeable party, the inclined planes, which are used instead of locks on the Morris canal.
This is a very interesting work; it is one among a thousand which prove the people of America to be the most enterprising in the world. I was informed that this important canal, which connects the waters of the Hudson and the Delaware, is a hundred miles long, and in this distance overcomes a variation of level amounting to sixteen hundred feet. Of this, fourteen hundred are achieved by inclined planes. The planes average about sixty feet of perpendicular151 lift each, and are to support about forty tons. The time consumed in passing them is twelve minutes for one hundred feet of perpendicular rise. The expense is less than a third of what locks would be for surmounting152 the same rise. If we set about any more canals, this may be worth attending to.
This Morris canal is certainly an extraordinary work; it not only varies its level sixteen hundred feet, but at one point runs along the side of a mountain at thirty feet above the tops of the highest buildings in the town of Paterson, below; at another it crosses the falls of the Passaic in a stone aqueduct sixty feet above the water in the river. This noble work, in a great degree, owes its existence to the patriotic153 and scientific energy of Mr. Cadwallader Colden.
There is no point in the national character of the Americans which commands so much respect as the boldness and energy with which public works are undertaken and carried through. Nothing stops them if a profitable result can be fairly hoped for. It is this which has made cities spring up amidst the forests with such inconceivable rapidity; and could they once be thoroughly154 persuaded that any point of the ocean had a hoard155 of dollars beneath it, I have not the slightest doubt that in about eighteen months we should see a snug156 covered rail-road leading direct to the spot.
I was told at New York, that in many parts of the state it was usual to pay the service of the Presbyterian ministers in the following manner. Once a year a day is fixed157, on which some member of every family in a congregation meet at their minister’s house in the afternoon. They each bring an offering (according to their means) of articles necessary for housekeeping. The poorer members leave their contributions in a large basket, placed for the purpose, close to the door of entrance. Those of more importance, and more calculated to do honour to the piety158 of the donors159, are carried into the room where the company is assembled. Sugar, coffee, tea, cheese, barrels of flour, pieces of Irish linen160, sets of china and of glass, were among the articles mentioned to me as usually making parts of these offerings. After the party is assembled, and the business of giving and receiving is dispatched, tea, coffee, and cakes are handed round; but these are not furnished at any expense either of trouble or money to the minster, for selected ladies of the congregation take the whole arrangement upon themselves. These meetings are called spinning visits.
Another New York custom, which does not seem to have so reasonable a cause, is the changing house once a year. On the 1st of May the city of New York has the appearance of sending off a population flying from the plague, or of a town which had surrendered on condition of carrying away all their goods and chattels161. Rich furniture and ragged162 furniture, carts, waggons163, and drays, ropes, canvas, and straw, packers, porters, and draymen, white, yellow, and black, occupy the streets from east to west, from north to south, on this day. Every one I spoke164 to on the subject complained of this custom as most annoying, but all assured me it was unavoidable, if you inhabit a rented house. More than one of my New York friends have built or bought houses solely165 to avoid this annual inconvenience.
There are a great number of negroes in New York, all free; their emancipation166 having been completed in 1827. Not even in Philadelphia, where the anti-slavery opinions have been the most active and violent, do the blacks appear to wear an air of so much consequence as they do at New York. They have several chapels, in which negro ministers officiate; and a theatre in which none but negroes perform. At this theatre a gallery is appropriated to such whites as choose to visit it; and here only are they permitted to sit; following in this, with nice etiquette167, and equal justice, the arrangement of the white theatres, in all of which is a gallery appropriated solely to the use of the blacks. I have often, particularly on a Sunday, met groups of negroes, elegantly dressed; and have been sometimes amused by observing the very superior air of gallantry assumed by the men, when in attendance on their belles168, to that of the whites in similar circumstances. On one occasion we met in Broadway a young negress in the extreme of the fashion, and accompanied by a black beau, whose toilet was equally studied; eye-glass, guard-chain, nothing was omitted; he walked beside his sable169 goddess uncovered, and with an air of the most tender devotion. At the window of a handsome house which they were passing, stood a very pretty white girl, with two gentlemen beside her; but alas170! both of them had their hats on, and one was smoking!
If it were not for the peculiar171 manner of walking, which distinguishes all American women, Broadway might be taken for a French street, where it was the fashion for very smart ladies to promenade172. The dress is entirely French; not an article (except perhaps the cotton stockings) must be English, on pain of being stigmatized173 as out of the fashion. Every thing English is decidedly mauvais ton; English materials, English fashions, English accent, English manner, are all terms of reproach; and to say that an unfortunate looks like an English woman, is the cruellest satire174 which can be uttered.
I remember visiting France almost immediately after we had made the most offensive invasion of her territory that can well be imagined, yet, despite the feelings which lengthened175 years of war must have engendered176, it was the fashion to admire every thing English. I suppose family quarrels are most difficult to adjust; for fifteen years of peace have not been enough to calm the angry feelings of brother Jonathan towards the land of his fathers,
“The which he hateth passing well.”
It is hardly needful to say the most courteous177 amenity178 of manner distinguishes the reception given to foreigners by the patrician179 class of Americans.
Gentlemen, in the old world sense of the term, are the same every where; and an American gentleman and his family know how to do the honours of their country to strangers of every nation, as well as any people on earth. But this class, though it decidedly exists, is a very small one, and cannot, in justice, be represented as affording a specimen of the whole.
Most of the houses in New York are painted on the outside, but in a manner carefully to avoid disfiguring the material which it preserves: on the contrary, nothing can be neater. They are now using a great deal of a beautiful stone called Jersey freestone; it is of a warm rich brown, and extremely ornamental180 to the city wherever it has been employed. They have also a grey granite181 of great beauty. The trottoir paving, in most of the streets, is extremely good, being of large flag stones, very superior to the bricks of Philadelphia.
At night the shops, which are open till very late, are brilliantly illuminated182 with gas, and all the population seem as much alive as in London or Paris. This makes the solemn stillness of the evening hours in Philadelphia still more remarkable.
There are a few trees in different parts of the city, and I observed young ones planted, and guarded with much care; were they more abundant it would be extremely agreeable, for the reflected light of their fierce summer sheds intolerable day.
Ice is in profuse abundance; I do not imagine that there is a house in the city without the luxury of a piece of ice to cool the water, and harden the butter.
The hackney coaches are the best in the world, but abominably183 dear, and it is necessary to be on the qui vive in making your bargain with the driver; if you do not, he has the power of charging immoderately. On my first experiment I neglected this, and was asked two dollars and a half for an excursion of twenty minutes. When I referred to the waiter of the hotel, he asked if I had made a bargain. “No.” “Then I expect” (with the usual look of triumph) “that the Yankee has been too smart for you.”
The private carriages of New York are infinitely handsomer and better appointed than any I saw elsewhere; the want of smart liveries destroys much of the gay effect, but, on the whole, a New York summer equipage, with the pretty women and beautiful children it contains, look extremely well in Broadway, and would not be much amiss anywhere.
The luxury of the New York aristocracy is not confined to the city; hardly an acre of Manhatten Island but shows some pretty villa10 or stately mansion. The most chosen of these are on the north and east rivers, to whose margins184 their lawns descend185. Among these, perhaps, the loveliest is one situated in the beautiful village of Bloomingdale; here, within the space of sixteen acres, almost every variety of garden scenery may be found. To describe all its diversity of hill and dale, of wood and lawn, of rock and river, would be in vain; nor can I convey an idea of it by comparison, for I never saw anything like it. How far the elegant hospitality which reigns186 there may influence my impression, I know not; but, assuredly, no spot I have ever seen dwells more freshly on my memory, nor did I ever find myself in a circle more calculated to give delight in meeting, and regret at parting, than that of Woodlawn.
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stagecoach
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consultations
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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4
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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5
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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6
embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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7
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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8
dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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9
villas
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| 别墅，公馆( villa的名词复数 )； （城郊）住宅 | |
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10
villa
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| n.别墅，城郊小屋 | |
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11
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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12
appendage
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| n.附加物 | |
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13
mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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14
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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15
locust
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| n.蝗虫；洋槐，刺槐 | |
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16
cypress
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| n.柏树 | |
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17
dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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18
melancholy
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|
| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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19
ornament
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| v.装饰，美化；n.装饰，装饰物 | |
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20
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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21
jersey
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| n.运动衫 | |
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22
tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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23
proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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24
tenants
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| n.房客( tenant的名词复数 )；佃户；占用者；占有者 | |
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25
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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26
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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27
observatory
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| n.天文台，气象台，瞭望台，观测台 | |
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28
ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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29
prospect
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|
| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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30
projection
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| n.发射，计划，突出部分 | |
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31
royalty
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| n.皇家，皇族 | |
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32
countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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33
benevolence
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|
| n.慈悲，捐助 | |
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34
Christian
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|
| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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35
joints
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|
| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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36
crammed
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|
| adj.塞满的，挤满的；大口地吃；快速贪婪地吃v.把…塞满；填入；临时抱佛脚( cram的过去式) | |
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37
remarkable
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|
| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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38
countenances
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|
| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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39
fascinations
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|
| n.魅力( fascination的名词复数 )；有魅力的东西；迷恋；陶醉 | |
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40
panoply
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|
| n.全副甲胄，礼服 | |
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41
armour
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|
| （=armor）n.盔甲；装甲部队 | |
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42
scowling
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| 怒视，生气地皱眉( scowl的现在分词 ) | |
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43
bonnets
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|
| n.童帽( bonnet的名词复数 )；（烟囱等的）覆盖物；（苏格兰男子的）无边呢帽；（女子戴的）任何一种帽子 | |
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44
allotted
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| 分配，拨给，摊派( allot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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45
tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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46
fully
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|
| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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47
neatly
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|
| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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48
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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49
incapable
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|
| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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50
darted
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的过去式和过去分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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51
isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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52
bosom
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|
| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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53
guardian
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|
| n.监护人；守卫者，保护者 | |
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54
northward
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|
| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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55
fortified
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|
| adj. 加强的 | |
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56
awnings
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| 篷帐布 | |
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57
pedestrians
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| n.步行者( pedestrian的名词复数 ) | |
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58
ornamented
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|
| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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59
graphic
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|
| adj.生动的，形象的，绘画的，文字的，图表的 | |
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60
drawn
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|
| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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61
detailed
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|
| adj.详细的，详尽的，极注意细节的，完全的 | |
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62
metropolis
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|
| n.首府；大城市 | |
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63
slabs
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|
| n.厚板，平板，厚片( slab的名词复数 )；厚胶片 | |
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64
exterior
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|
| adj.外部的，外在的；表面的 | |
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65
portfolios
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|
| n.投资组合( portfolio的名词复数 )；（保险）业务量；（公司或机构提供的）系列产品；纸夹 | |
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66
busts
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|
| 半身雕塑像( bust的名词复数 )； 妇女的胸部； 胸围； 突击搜捕 | |
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67
alabaster
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|
| adj.雪白的；n.雪花石膏；条纹大理石 | |
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68
illustrated
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|
| adj. 有插图的，列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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69
scattered
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|
| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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70
profuse
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|
| adj.很多的，大量的，极其丰富的 | |
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71
negligence
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|
| n.疏忽，玩忽，粗心大意 | |
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72
mowing
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|
| n.割草，一次收割量，牧草地v.刈，割( mow的现在分词 ) | |
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73
bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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74
gravel
|
|
| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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75
barges
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| 驳船( barge的名词复数 ) | |
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76
hospitable
|
|
| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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77
refinement
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|
| n.文雅；高尚；精美；精制；精炼 | |
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78
conversational
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|
| adj.对话的，会话的 | |
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79
delightful
|
|
| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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80
licensed
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|
| adj.得到许可的v.许可，颁发执照(license的过去式和过去分词) | |
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81
infinitely
|
|
| adv.无限地，无穷地 | |
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82
machinery
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|
| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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83
utterly
|
|
| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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84
condemned
|
|
| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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85
penetrated
|
|
| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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86
acting
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|
| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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87
maternal
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|
| adj.母亲的，母亲般的，母系的，母方的 | |
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88
tinge
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|
| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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89
choir
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|
| n.唱诗班，唱诗班的席位，合唱团，舞蹈团；v.合唱 | |
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90
prospectus
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|
| n.计划书；说明书；慕股书 | |
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91
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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92
vocal
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| adj.直言不讳的；嗓音的；n.[pl.]声乐节目 | |
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93
antiquities
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|
| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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94
treatise
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|
| n.专著；(专题)论文 | |
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95
rhetoric
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|
| n.修辞学，浮夸之言语 | |
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96
mythology
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|
| n.神话，神话学，神话集 | |
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97
watts
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| （电力计量单位）瓦，瓦特( watt的名词复数 ) | |
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98
orations
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| n.（正式仪式中的）演说，演讲( oration的名词复数 ) | |
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99
logic
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| n.逻辑(学)；逻辑性 | |
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100
algebra
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| n.代数学 | |
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101
magnetism
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| n.磁性，吸引力，磁学 | |
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102
elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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103
pretension
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| n.要求；自命，自称；自负 | |
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104
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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105
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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106
intervals
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|
| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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107
margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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108
pebbly
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| 多卵石的，有卵石花纹的 | |
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109
mimics
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| n.模仿名人言行的娱乐演员，滑稽剧演员( mimic的名词复数 )；善于模仿的人或物v.（尤指为了逗乐而）模仿( mimic的第三人称单数 )；酷似 | |
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110
diverge
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| v.分叉，分歧，离题，使...岔开，使转向 | |
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111
coves
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| n.小海湾( cove的名词复数 )；家伙 | |
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112
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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113
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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114
renounce
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| v.放弃；拒绝承认，宣布与…断绝关系 | |
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115
boundless
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| adj.无限的；无边无际的；巨大的 | |
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116
resounding
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| adj. 响亮的 | |
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117
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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118
genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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119
gilds
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| 把…镀金( gild的第三人称单数 )； 给…上金色； 作多余的修饰（反而破坏原已完美的东西）； 画蛇添足 | |
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120
dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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121
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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122
fanaticism
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| n.狂热，盲信 | |
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123
tainted
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|
| adj.腐坏的；污染的；沾污的；感染的v.使变质( taint的过去式和过去分词 )；使污染；败坏；被污染，腐坏，败坏 | |
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124
immured
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|
| v.禁闭，监禁( immure的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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125
propitiate
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| v.慰解，劝解 | |
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126
reeking
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|
| v.发出浓烈的臭气( reek的现在分词 )；散发臭气；发出难闻的气味 (of sth)；明显带有（令人不快或生疑的跡象） | |
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127
fumes
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| n.(强烈而刺激的)气味，气体 | |
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128
contrived
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|
| adj.不自然的，做作的；虚构的 | |
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129
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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130
chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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131
arrogate
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| v.冒称具有...权利，霸占 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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134
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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135
profundity
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| n.渊博；深奥，深刻 | |
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136
excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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137
nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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138
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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139
pretensions
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| 自称( pretension的名词复数 )； 自命不凡； 要求； 权力 | |
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140
deplore
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| vt.哀叹，对...深感遗憾 | |
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141
deference
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| n.尊重，顺从；敬意 | |
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142
patriots
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| 爱国者，爱国主义者( patriot的名词复数 ) | |
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143
sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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144
asylum
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| n.避难所，庇护所，避难 | |
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145
destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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146
offenders
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| n.冒犯者( offender的名词复数 )；犯规者；罪犯；妨害…的人（或事物） | |
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147
conversing
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| v.交谈，谈话( converse的现在分词 ) | |
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148
withdrawn
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| vt.收回；使退出；vi.撤退，退出 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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surmounting
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| 战胜( surmount的现在分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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153
patriotic
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| adj.爱国的，有爱国心的 | |
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154
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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155
hoard
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| n./v.窖藏，贮存，囤积 | |
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156
snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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158
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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159
donors
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| n.捐赠者( donor的名词复数 )；献血者；捐血者；器官捐献者 | |
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160
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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chattels
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| n.动产，奴隶( chattel的名词复数 ) | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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waggons
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| 四轮的运货马车( waggon的名词复数 )； 铁路货车； 小手推车 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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166
emancipation
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| n.（从束缚、支配下）解放 | |
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167
etiquette
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| n.礼仪，礼节；规矩 | |
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168
belles
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| n.美女( belle的名词复数 )；最美的美女 | |
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169
sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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170
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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171
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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172
promenade
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| n./v.散步 | |
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173
stigmatized
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| v.使受耻辱，指责，污辱( stigmatize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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satire
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| n.讽刺，讽刺文学，讽刺作品 | |
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175
lengthened
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| （时间或空间）延长，伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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176
engendered
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| v.产生（某形势或状况），造成，引起( engender的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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177
courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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178
amenity
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| n.pl.生活福利设施，文娱康乐场所；（不可数）愉快，适意 | |
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179
patrician
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| adj.贵族的，显贵的；n.贵族；有教养的人；罗马帝国的地方官 | |
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180
ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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181
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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182
illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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183
abominably
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| adv. 可恶地，可恨地，恶劣地 | |
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184
margins
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| 边( margin的名词复数 )； 利润； 页边空白； 差数 | |
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185
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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186
reigns
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| n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 )；君主统治时期；任期；当政期 | |
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