Of the Well-dressed Islanders of Singapur and their Diversions; proving that all Stations are exactly Alike. Shows how One Chicago Jew and an American Child can poison the Purest Mind
We are not divided,
All one body we —
One in Charity.
WHEN one comes to a new station the first thing to do is to call on the inhabitants. This duty I had neglected, preferring to consort2 with Chinese till the Sabbath, when I learnt that Singapur went to the Botanical Gardens and listened to secular3 music.
All the Englishmen in the island congregated4 there. The Botanical Gardens would have been lovely at Kew, but here, where one knew that they were the only place of recreation open to the inhabitants, they were not pleasant. All the plants of all the tropics grew there together, and the orchid-house was roofed with thin battens of wood — just enough to keep off the direct rays of the sun. It held waxy-white splendours from Manila, the Philippines, and tropical Africa — plants that were half-slugs, drawing nourishment5 apparently6 from their own wooden labels; but there was no difference between the temperature of the orchid-house and the open air; both were heavy, dank, and steaming. I would have given a month’s pay — but I have no month’s pay!— for a clear breath of stifling7 hot wind from the sands of Sirsa, for the darkness of a Punjab dust-storm, in exchange for the perspiring8 plants, and the tree-fern that sweated audibly.
Just when I was most impressed with my measureless distance from India, my carriage advanced to the sound of slow music, and I found myself in the middle of an Indian station — not quite as big as Allahabad, and infinitely9 prettier than Lucknow. It overlooked the gardens that sloped in ridge10 and hollow below; and the barracks were set in much greenery, and there was a mess-house that suggested long and cooling drinks, and there walked round about a British band. It was just We Our Noble Selves. In the centre was the pretty Memsahib with light hair and fascinating manners, and the plump little Memsahib that talks to everybody and is in everybody’s confidence, and the spinster fresh from home, and the bean-fed, well-groomed subaltern with the light coat and fox-terrier. On the benches sat the fat colonel, and the large judge, and the engineer’s wife, and the merchant-man and his family after their kind — male and female met I them, and but for the little fact that they were entire strangers to me, I would have saluted11 them all as old friends. I knew what they were talking about, could see them taking stock of one another’s dresses out of the corners of their eyes, could see the young men backing and filling across the ground in order to walk with the young maidens12, and could hear the ‘Do you think so’s ‘and ‘Not realty’s’ of our polite conversation. It is an awful thing to sit in a hired carriage and watch one’s own people, and know that though you know their life, you have neither part nor lot in it.
I am a shadow now; alas13! alas!
Upon the skirts of human nature dwelling14,
I said mournfully to the Professor. He was looking at Mrs. ——, or some one so like her that it came to the same thing. ‘Am I travelling round the world to discover these people?’ said he. ‘I’ve seen ’em all before. There’s Captain Such-an-one and Colonel Such-another and Miss What’s-itsname as large as life and twice as pale.’
The Professor had hit it. That was the difference. People in Singapur are dead-white — as white as Naaman — and the veins15 on the backs of their hands are painted in indigo16.
It is as though the Rains were just over, and none of the womenfolk had been allowed to go to the hills. Yet no one talks about the unhealthiness of Singapur. A man lives well and happily until he begins to feel unwell. Then he feels worse because the climate allows him no chance of pulling himself together — and then he dies. Typhoid fever appears to be one gate of death, as it is in India; also liver. The nicest thing in the civil station which lies, of course, far from the native town, and boasts pretty little bungalows17 — is Thomas — dear, white-robed, swaggering, smoking, swearing Thomas Atkins the unchangeable, who listens to the band and wanders down the bazaars18, and slings19 the unmentionable adjective about the palm trees exactly as though he were in Mian Mir. The 58th (Northamptonshire) live in these parts; so Singapur is quite safe, you see.
Nobody would speak to me in the gardens, though I felt that they ought to have invited me to drink, and I crept back to my hotel to eat six different fresh chutnies with one curry20.
. . . . .
. . . . .
I want to go Home! I want to go back to India! I am miserable21. The steamship22 Nawab at this time of the year ought to have been empty, instead of which we have one hundred first-class passengers and sixty-six second. All the pretty girls are in the latter class. Something must have happened at Colombo — two steamers must have clashed. We have the results of the collision, and we are a menagerie. The captain says that there ought to have been only ten or twelve passengers by rights, and had the rush been anticipated, a larger steamer would have been provided. Personally, I consider that half our shipmates ought to be thrown overboard. They are only travelling round the world for pleasure, and that sort of dissipation leads to the forming of hasty and intemperate23 opinions. Anyhow, give me freedom and the cockroaches24 of the British India, where we dined on deck, altered the hours of the meals by plebiscite, and were lords of all we saw. You know the chain-gang regulations of the P. and O.: how you must approach the captain standing25 on your head with your feet waving reverently26; how you must crawl into the presence of the chief steward27 on your belly28 and call him Thrice-Puissant Bottlewasher; how you must not smoke abaft29 the sheep-pens; must not stand in the companion; must put on a clean coat when the ship’s library is opened; and, crowning injustice30, must order your drinks for tiffin and dinner one meal in advance? How can a man full of Pilsener beer reach that keen-set state of quiescence31 needful for ordering his dinner liquor? This shows ignorance of human nature. The P. and O. want healthy competition. They call their captains commanders and act as though ’twere a favour to allow you to embark32. Again, freedom and the British India for ever, and down with the comforts of a coolie-ship and the prices of a palace!
There are about thirty women on board, and I have been watching with a certain amount of indignation their concerted attempt at killing33 the stewardess34,— a delicate and sweet-mannered lady. I think they will accomplish their end. The saloon is ninety feet long, and the stewardess runs up and down it for nine hours a day. In her intervals35 of relaxation36 she carries cups of beef-tea to the frail37 sylphs who cannot exist without food between 9 A.M. and 1 P.M. This morning she advanced to me and said, as though it were the most natural thing in the world: ‘Shall I take away your tea-cup, sir?’ She was a real white woman, and the saloon was full of hulking, halfbred Portuguese38. One young Englishman let her take his cup, and actually did not turn round when he handed it! This is awful, and teaches me, as nothing else has done, how far I am from the blessed East. She (the stewardess) talks standing up, to men who sit down!
We in India are currently supposed to be unkind to our servants. I should very much like to see a sweeper doing one-half of the work these strapping39 white matrons and maids exact from their sister. They make her carry things about and don’t even say, ‘Thank you.’ She has no name, and if you bawl40, ‘Stewardess,’ she is bound to come. Isn’t it degrading?
But the real reason of my wish to return is because I have met a lump of Chicago Jews and am afraid that I shall meet many more. The ship is full of Americans, but the American-German-Jew boy is the most awful of all. One of them has money, and wanders from bow to stern asking strangers to drink, bossing lotteries41 on the run, and committing other atrocities42. It is currently reported that he is dying. Unfortunately he does not die quickly enough.
But the real monstrosity of the ship is an American who is not quite grown up. I cannot call it a boy, though officially it is only eight, wears a striped jacket, and eats with the children. It has the wearied appearance of an infant monkey — there are lines round its mouth and under its eyebrows43. When it has nothing else to do it will answer to the name of Albert. It has been two years on the continuous travel; has spent a month in India; has seen Constantinople, Tripoli, Spain; has lived in tents and on horseback for thirty days and thirty nights, as it was careful to inform me; and has exhausted44 the round of this world’s delights. There is no flesh on its bones, and it lives in the smoking-room financing the arrangements of the daily lottery45. I was afraid of it, but it followed me, and in a level expressionless voice began to tell me how lotteries were constructed. When I protested that I knew, it continued without regarding the interruption, and finally, as a reward for my patience, volunteered to give me the names and idiosyncrasies of all on board. Then it vanished through the smoking-room window because the door was only eight feet high, and therefore too narrow for that bulk of abnormal experiences. On certain subjects it was partly better informed than I; on others it displayed the infinite credulity of a two-year-old. But the wearied eyes were ever the same. They will be the same when it is fifty. I was more sorry for it than I could say. All its reminiscences had got jumbled46, and incidents of Spain were baled into Turkey and India. Some day a schoolmaster will get hold of it and try to educate it, and I should dearly like to see at which end he will begin. The head is too full already and the — the other part does not exist. Albert is, I presume, but an ordinary American child. He was to me a revelation. Now I want to see a little American girl — but not now — not just now. My nerves are shattered by the Jews and Albert; and unless they recover their tone I shall turn back at Yokohama.
1 doctrine | |
n.教义;主义;学说 | |
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2 consort | |
v.相伴;结交 | |
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3 secular | |
n.牧师,凡人;adj.世俗的,现世的,不朽的 | |
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4 congregated | |
(使)集合,聚集( congregate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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5 nourishment | |
n.食物,营养品;营养情况 | |
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6 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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7 stifling | |
a.令人窒息的 | |
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8 perspiring | |
v.出汗,流汗( perspire的现在分词 ) | |
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9 infinitely | |
adv.无限地,无穷地 | |
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10 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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11 saluted | |
v.欢迎,致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 );赞扬,赞颂 | |
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12 maidens | |
处女( maiden的名词复数 ); 少女; 未婚女子; (板球运动)未得分的一轮投球 | |
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13 alas | |
int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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14 dwelling | |
n.住宅,住所,寓所 | |
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15 veins | |
n.纹理;矿脉( vein的名词复数 );静脉;叶脉;纹理 | |
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16 indigo | |
n.靛青,靛蓝 | |
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17 bungalows | |
n.平房( bungalow的名词复数 );单层小屋,多于一层的小屋 | |
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18 bazaars | |
(东方国家的)市场( bazaar的名词复数 ); 义卖; 义卖市场; (出售花哨商品等的)小商品市场 | |
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19 slings | |
抛( sling的第三人称单数 ); 吊挂; 遣送; 押往 | |
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20 curry | |
n.咖哩粉,咖哩饭菜;v.用咖哩粉调味,用马栉梳,制革 | |
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21 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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22 steamship | |
n.汽船,轮船 | |
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23 intemperate | |
adj.无节制的,放纵的 | |
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24 cockroaches | |
n.蟑螂( cockroach的名词复数 ) | |
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25 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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26 reverently | |
adv.虔诚地 | |
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27 steward | |
n.乘务员,服务员;看管人;膳食管理员 | |
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28 belly | |
n.肚子,腹部;(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分,膛 | |
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29 abaft | |
prep.在…之后;adv.在船尾,向船尾 | |
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30 injustice | |
n.非正义,不公正,不公平,侵犯(别人的)权利 | |
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31 quiescence | |
n.静止 | |
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32 embark | |
vi.乘船,着手,从事,上飞机 | |
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33 killing | |
n.巨额利润;突然赚大钱,发大财 | |
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34 stewardess | |
n.空中小姐,女乘务员 | |
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35 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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36 relaxation | |
n.松弛,放松;休息;消遣;娱乐 | |
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37 frail | |
adj.身体虚弱的;易损坏的 | |
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38 Portuguese | |
n.葡萄牙人;葡萄牙语 | |
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39 strapping | |
adj. 魁伟的, 身材高大健壮的 n. 皮绳或皮带的材料, 裹伤胶带, 皮鞭 动词strap的现在分词形式 | |
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40 bawl | |
v.大喊大叫,大声地喊,咆哮 | |
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41 lotteries | |
n.抽彩给奖法( lottery的名词复数 );碰运气的事;彩票;彩券 | |
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42 atrocities | |
n.邪恶,暴行( atrocity的名词复数 );滔天大罪 | |
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43 eyebrows | |
眉毛( eyebrow的名词复数 ) | |
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44 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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45 lottery | |
n.抽彩;碰运气的事,难于算计的事 | |
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46 jumbled | |
adj.混乱的;杂乱的 | |
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