Shows how Yankee Jim introduced me to Diana of the Crossways on the Banks of the Yellowstone and how a German Jew said I was no True Citizen. Ends with the Celebration of the 4th of July and a Few Lessons therefrom
LIVINGSTONE is a town of two thousand people, and the junction1 for the little side-line that takes you to the Yellowstone National Park. It lies in a fold of the prairie, and behind it is the Yellowstone River and the gate of the mountains through which the river flows. There is one street in the town, where the cowboy’s pony2 and the little foal of the brood-mare in the buggy rest contentedly3 in the blinding sunshine while the cowboy gets himself shaved at the only other barber’s shop, and swaps4 lies at the bar. I exhausted5 the town, including the saloons, in ten minutes, and got away on the rolling grass downs where I threw myself to rest. Directly under the hill I was on, swept a drove of horses in charge of two mounted men. That was a picture I shall not soon forget. A light haze6 of dust went up from the hoof-trodden green, scarcely veiling the unfettered deviltries of three hundred horses who very much wanted to stop and graze. ‘Yow! Yow! Yow!’ yapped the mounted men in chorus like coyotes. The column moved forward at a trot7, divided as it met a hillock and scattered8 into fan shape all among the suburbs of Livingstone. I heard the ‘snick’ of a stock-whip, half a dozen ‘Yow, yows,’ and the mob had come together again, and, with neighing and whickering and squealing9 and a great deal of kicking on the part of the youngsters, rolled like a wave of brown water toward the uplands.
I was within twenty feet of the leader, a grey stallion — lord of many brood-mares all deeply concerned for the welfare of their fuzzy foals. A cream-coloured beast — I knew him at once for the bad character of the troop — broke back, taking with him some frivolous10 fillies. I heard the snick of the whips somewhere in the dust, and the fillies came back at a canter, very shocked and indignant. On the heels of the last rode both the stockmen — picturesque11 ruffians who wanted to know ‘what in hell’ I was doing there, waved their hats, and sped down the slope after their charges. When the noise of the troop had died there came a wonderful silence on all the prairie — that silence, they say, which enters into the heart of the old-time hunter and trapper and marks him off from the rest of his race. The town disappeared in the darkness, and a very young moon showed herself over a baldheaded, snow-flecked peak. Then the Yellowstone, hidden by the water-willows, lifted up its voice and sang a little song to the mountains, and an old horse that had crept up in the dusk breathed inquiringly on the back of my neck. When I reached the hotel I found all manner of preparation under way for the 4th of July, and a drunken man with a Winchester rifle over his shoulder patrolling the sidewalk. I do not think he wanted any one. He carried the gun as other folk carry walkingsticks. None the less I avoided the direct line of fire and listened to the blasphemies12 of miners and stockmen till far into the night. In every bar-room lay a copy of the local paper, and every copy impressed it upon the inhabitants of Livingstone that they were the best, finest, bravest, richest, and most progressive town of the most progressive nation under Heaven; even as the Tacoma and Portland papers had belauded their readers. And yet, all my purblind13 eyes could see was a grubby little hamlet full of men without clean collars and perfectly14 unable to get through one sentence unadorned by three oaths. They raise horses and minerals round and about Livingstone, but they behave as though they raised cherubims with diamonds in their wings.
From Livingstone the National Park train follows the Yellowstone River through the gate of the mountains and over arid15 volcanic16 country. A stranger in the cars saw me look at the ideal troutstream below the windows and murmured softly: ‘Lie off at Yankee Jim’s if you want good fishing.’, They halted the train at the head of a narrow valley, and I leaped literally18 into the arms of Yankee Jim, sole owner of a log hut, an indefinite amount of hay-ground, and constructor of twenty seven miles of waggon-road over which he held toll-right. There was the hut — the river fifty yards away, and the polished line of metals that disappeared round a bluff19. That was all. The railway added the finishing touch to the already complete loneliness of the place. Yankee Jim was a picturesque old man with a talent for yarns20 that Ananias might have envied. It seemed to me, presumptuous21 in my ignorance, that I might hold my own with the old-timer if I judiciously22 painted up a few lies gathered in the course of my wanderings. Yankee Jim saw every one of my tales and went fifty better on the spot. He dealt in bears and Indians — never less than twenty of each; had known the Yellowstone country for years, and bore upon his body marks of Indian arrows; and his eyes had seen a squaw of the Crow Indians burned alive at the stake. He said she screamed considerable. In one point did he speak the truth — as regarded the merits of that particular reach of the Yellowstone. He said it was alive with trout17. It was. I fished it from noon till twilight23, and the fish bit at the brown hook as though never a fat trout-fly had fallen on the water. From pebbly24 reaches, quivering in the heat-haze where the foot caught on stumps25 cut four-square by the chiseltooth of the beaver26; past the fringe of the waterwillow crowded with the breeding trout-fly and alive with toads27 and water-snakes; over the drifted timber to the grateful shadow of big trees that darkened the holes where the fattest fish lay, I worked for seven hours. The mountain flanks on either side of the valley gave back the heat as the desert gives it, and the dry sand by the railway track, where I found a rattle-snake, was hot-iron to the touch. But the trout did not care for the heat. They breasted the boiling river for my fly and they got it. I simply dare not give my bag. At the fortieth trout I gave up counting, and I had reached the fortieth in less than two hours. They were small fish,— not one over two pounds,— but they fought like small tigers, and I lost three flies before I could understand their methods of escape. Ye gods! That was fishing, though it peeled the skin from my nose in strips.
At twilight Yankee Jim bore me off, protesting, to supper in the hut. The fish had prepared me for any surprise, wherefore when Yankee Jim introduced me to a young woman of five-and-twenty, with eyes like the deep-fringed eyes of the gazelle, and ‘on the neck the small head buoyant, like a bell-flower in its bed,’ I said nothing. It was all in the day’s events. She was California-raised, the wife of a man who owned a stock-farm ‘up the river a little ways,’ and, with her husband, tenant28 of Yankee Jim’s shanty29. I know she wore list slippers30 and did not wear stays; but I know also that she was beautiful by any standard of beauty, and that the trout she cooked were fit for a king’s supper. And after supper strange men loafed up in the dim delicious twilight, with the little news of the day — how a heifer had ‘gone strayed’ from Nicholson’s; how the widow at Grant’s Fork wouldn’t part with a little hayland nohow, though ‘she an’ her big brothers can’t manage more than ha-af their land now. She’s so darned proud.’ Diana of the Crossways entertained them in queenly wise, and her husband and Yankee Jim bade them sit right down and make themselves at home. Then did Yankee Jim uncurl his choicest lies on Indian warfare31 aforetime; then did the whisky-flask circle round the little crowd; then did Diana’s husband ’low that he was quite handy with the lariat32, but had seen men rope a steer33 by any foot or horn indicated; then did Diana unburden herself about her neighbours. The nearest house was three miles away, ‘but the women aren’t nice, neighbourly folk. They talk so. They haven’t got anything else to do seemingly. If a woman goes to a dance and has a good time, they talk, and if she wears a silk dress, they want to know how jest ranchin’ folks — folk on a ranche — come by such things; and they make mischief34 down all the lands here from Gardiner City way back up to Livingstone. They’re mostly Montanna raised, and they haven’t been nowheres. Ah, how they talk!’ Were things like this, demanded Diana, in the big world outside, whence I had come? Yes, I said, things were very much the same all over the world, and I thought of a far-away station in India where new dresses and the having of good times at dances raised cackle more grammatical perhaps, but no less venomous than the gossip of the ‘Montanna-raised’ folk on the ranches35 of the Yellowstone.
Next morn I fished again and listened to Diana telling the story of her life. I forget what she told me, but I am distinctly aware that she had royal eyes and a mouth that the daughter of a hundred earls might have envied — so small and so delicately cut it was. ‘An’ you come back an’ see us again,’ said the simple-minded folk. ‘Come back an’ we’ll show you how to catch six-pound trout at the head of the ca?on.’
To-day I am in the Yellowstone Park, and I wish I were dead. The train halted at Cinnabar station, and we were decanted36, a howling crowd of us, into stages, variously horsed, for the eight-mile drive to the first spectacle of the Park — a place called the Mammoth37 Hot Springs. ‘What means this eager, anxious throng38?’ I asked the driver. ‘You’ve struck one of Rayment’s excursion parties — that’s all — a crowd of creator-condemned fools mostly. Aren’t you one of ’em?’ ‘No,’ I said. ‘May I sit up here with you, great chief and man with a golden tongue? I do not know Mister Rayment. I belong to T. Cook and Son.’ The other person, from the quality of the material he handles, must be the son of a sea-cook. He collects masses of Down-Easters from the New England States and elsewhere and hurls39 them across the continent and into the Yellowstone Park on tour. A brake-load of Cook’s Continental40 tourists trapezing through Paris (I’ve seen ’em) are angels of light compared to the Rayment trippers. It is not the ghastly vulgarity, the oozing41, rampant42 Bessemer-steel self-sufficiency and ignorance of the men that revolts me, so much as the display of these same qualities in the women-folk. I saw a new type in the coach, and all my dreams of a better and more perfect East died away. ‘Are these — um — persons here any sort of persons in their own places?’ I asked a shepherd who appeared to be herding43 them.
‘Why, certainly. They include very many prominent and representative citizens from seven States of the Union, and most of them are wealthy. Yes, sir. Representative and prominent.’
We ran across bare hills on an unmetalled road under a burning sun in front of a volley of playful repartee44 from the prominent citizens inside. It was the 4th of July. The horses had American flags in their headstalls, some of the women wore flags and coloured handkerchiefs in their belts, and a young German on the box-seat with me was bewailing the loss of a box of crackers45. He said he had been sent to the Continent to get his schooling46 and so had lost his American accent; but no Continental schooling writes German Jew all over a man’s face and nose. He was a rabid American citizen — one of a very difficult class to deal with. As a general rule, praise unsparingly, and without discrimination. That keeps most men quiet: but some, if you fail to keep up a continuous stream of praise, proceed to revile47 the old country — Germans and Irish who are more American than the Americans are the chief offenders48. This young American began to attack the English army. He had seen some of it on parade and he pitied the men in bearskins as ‘slaves.’ The citizen, by the way, has a contempt for his own army which exceeds anything you meet among the most illiberal49 classes in England. I admitted that our army was very poor, had done nothing, and had been nowhere. This exasperated50 him, for he expected an argument, and he trampled51 on the British Lion generally. Failing to move me, he vowed52 that I had no patriotism53 like his own. I said I had not, and further ventured that very few Englishmen had; which, when you come to think of it, is quite true. By the time he had proved conclusively54 that before the Prince of Wales came to the throne we should be a blethering republic, we struck a road that overhung a river, and my interest in ‘politics’ was lost in admiration55 of the driver’s skill as he sent his four big horses along that winding56 road. There was no room for any sort of accident — a shy or a swerve57 would have dropped us sixty feet into the roaring Gardiner River. Some of the persons in the coach remarked that the scenery was ‘elegant.’ Wherefore, even at the risk of my own life, I did urgently desire an accident and the massacre58 of some of the more prominent citizens. What ‘elegance’ lies in a thousand-foot pile of honeycoloured rock, riven into peak and battlement, the highest peak defiantly59 crowned by an eagle’s nest, the eaglet peering into the gulf60 and screaming for his food, I could not for the life of me understand. But they speak a strange tongue.
En route we passed other carriages full of trippers, who had done their appointed five days in the Park, and yelped61 at us fraternally as they disappeared in clouds of red dust. When we struck the Mammoth Hot Spring Hotel — a huge yellow barn — a sign-board informed us that the altitude was six thousand two hundred feet. The Park is just a howling wilderness62 of three thousand square miles, full of all imaginable freaks of a fiery63 nature. An hotel company, assisted by the Secretary of State for the Interior, appears to control it; there are hotels at all the points of interest, guide-books, stalls for the sale of minerals, and so forth64, after the model of Swiss summer places.
The tourists — may their master die an evil death at the hand of a mad locomotive!— poured into that place with a joyful65 whoop66, and, scarce washing the dust from themselves, began to celebrate the 4th of July. They called it ‘patriotic exercises’; elected a clergyman of their own faith as president, and, sitting on the landing of the first floor, began to make speeches and read the Declaration of Independence. The clergyman rose up and told them they were the greatest, freest, sublimest68, most chivalrous69, and richest people on the face of the earth, and they all said Amen. Another clergyman asserted in the words of the Declaration that all men were created equal, and equally entitled to Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness. I should like to know whether the wild and woolly West recognises this first right as freely as the grantors intended. The clergyman then bade the world note that the tourists included representatives of seven of the New England States whereat I felt deeply sorry for the New England States in their latter days. He opined that this running to and fro upon the earth, under the auspices70 of the excellent Rayment, would draw America more closely together, especially when the Westerners remembered the perils71 that they of the East had surmounted72 by rail and river. At duly appointed intervals73 the congregation sang ‘My country, ’tis of thee’ to the tune74 of ‘God Save the Queen’ (here they did not stand up) and the ‘Star-Spangled Banner’ (here they did), winding up the exercise with some doggerel75 of their own composition to the tune of ‘John Brown’s Body,’ movingly setting forth the perils before alluded76 to. They then adjourned77 to the verandahs and watched fire-crackers of the feeblest, exploding one by one, for several hours.
What amazed me was the calm with which these folks gathered together and commenced to belaud their noble selves, their country, and their ‘institootions’ and everything else that was theirs. The language was, to these bewildered ears, wild advertisement, gas, bunkum, blow, anything you please beyond the bounds of common sense. An archangel, selling town-lots on the Glassy Sea, would have blushed to the tips of his wings to describe his property in similar terms. Then they gathered round the pastor78 and told him his little sermon was ‘perfectly glorious,’ really grand, sublime67, and so forth, and he bridled79 ecclesiastically. At the end a perfectly unknown man attacked me and asked me what I thought of American patriotism. I said there was nothing like it in the Old Country. By the way, always tell an American this. It soothes80 him.
Then said he ‘Are you going to get out your letters, your letters of naturalisation?’
‘Why?’ I asked.
‘I presoom you do business in this country, and make money out of it,— and it seems to me that it would be your dooty.’
‘Sir,’ said I sweetly, ‘there is a forgotten little island across the seas called England. It is not much bigger than the Yellowstone Park. In that island a man of your country could work, marry, make his fortune or twenty fortunes, and die. Throughout his career not one soul would ask him whether he were a British subject or a child of the Devil. Do you understand?’
I think he did, because he said something about ‘Britishers’ which wasn’t complimentary81.
1 junction | |
n.连接,接合;交叉点,接合处,枢纽站 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
2 pony | |
adj.小型的;n.小马 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
3 contentedly | |
adv.心满意足地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
4 swaps | |
交换( swap的名词复数 ); 交换物,被掉换者 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
5 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
6 haze | |
n.霾,烟雾;懵懂,迷糊;vi.(over)变模糊 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
7 trot | |
n.疾走,慢跑;n.老太婆;现成译本;(复数)trots:腹泻(与the 连用);v.小跑,快步走,赶紧 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
8 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
9 squealing | |
v.长声尖叫,用长而尖锐的声音说( squeal的现在分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
10 frivolous | |
adj.轻薄的;轻率的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
11 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
12 blasphemies | |
n.对上帝的亵渎,亵渎的言词[行为]( blasphemy的名词复数 );侮慢的言词(或行为) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
13 purblind | |
adj.半盲的;愚笨的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
14 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
15 arid | |
adj.干旱的;(土地)贫瘠的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
16 volcanic | |
adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
17 trout | |
n.鳟鱼;鲑鱼(属) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
18 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
19 bluff | |
v.虚张声势,用假象骗人;n.虚张声势,欺骗 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
20 yarns | |
n.纱( yarn的名词复数 );纱线;奇闻漫谈;旅行轶事 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
21 presumptuous | |
adj.胆大妄为的,放肆的,冒昧的,冒失的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
22 judiciously | |
adv.明断地,明智而审慎地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
23 twilight | |
n.暮光,黄昏;暮年,晚期,衰落时期 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
24 pebbly | |
多卵石的,有卵石花纹的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
25 stumps | |
(被砍下的树的)树桩( stump的名词复数 ); 残肢; (板球三柱门的)柱; 残余部分 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
26 beaver | |
n.海狸,河狸 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
27 toads | |
n.蟾蜍,癞蛤蟆( toad的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
28 tenant | |
n.承租人;房客;佃户;v.租借,租用 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
29 shanty | |
n.小屋,棚屋;船工号子 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
30 slippers | |
n. 拖鞋 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
31 warfare | |
n.战争(状态);斗争;冲突 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
32 lariat | |
n.系绳,套索;v.用套索套捕 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
33 steer | |
vt.驾驶,为…操舵;引导;vi.驾驶 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
34 mischief | |
n.损害,伤害,危害;恶作剧,捣蛋,胡闹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
35 ranches | |
大农场, (兼种果树,养鸡等的)大牧场( ranch的名词复数 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
36 decanted | |
v.将(酒等)自瓶中倒入另一容器( decant的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
37 mammoth | |
n.长毛象;adj.长毛象似的,巨大的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
38 throng | |
n.人群,群众;v.拥挤,群集 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
39 hurls | |
v.猛投,用力掷( hurl的第三人称单数 );大声叫骂 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
40 continental | |
adj.大陆的,大陆性的,欧洲大陆的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
41 oozing | |
v.(浓液等)慢慢地冒出,渗出( ooze的现在分词 );使(液体)缓缓流出;(浓液)渗出,慢慢流出 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
42 rampant | |
adj.(植物)蔓生的;狂暴的,无约束的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
43 herding | |
中畜群 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
44 repartee | |
n.机敏的应答 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
45 crackers | |
adj.精神错乱的,癫狂的n.爆竹( cracker的名词复数 );薄脆饼干;(认为)十分愉快的事;迷人的姑娘 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
46 schooling | |
n.教育;正规学校教育 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
47 revile | |
v.辱骂,谩骂 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
48 offenders | |
n.冒犯者( offender的名词复数 );犯规者;罪犯;妨害…的人(或事物) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
49 illiberal | |
adj.气量狭小的,吝啬的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
50 exasperated | |
adj.恼怒的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
51 trampled | |
踩( trample的过去式和过去分词 ); 践踏; 无视; 侵犯 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
52 vowed | |
起誓,发誓(vow的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
53 patriotism | |
n.爱国精神,爱国心,爱国主义 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
54 conclusively | |
adv.令人信服地,确凿地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
55 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
56 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
57 swerve | |
v.突然转向,背离;n.转向,弯曲,背离 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
58 massacre | |
n.残杀,大屠杀;v.残杀,集体屠杀 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
59 defiantly | |
adv.挑战地,大胆对抗地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
60 gulf | |
n.海湾;深渊,鸿沟;分歧,隔阂 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
61 yelped | |
v.发出短而尖的叫声( yelp的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
62 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
63 fiery | |
adj.燃烧着的,火红的;暴躁的;激烈的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
64 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
65 joyful | |
adj.欢乐的,令人欢欣的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
66 whoop | |
n.大叫,呐喊,喘息声;v.叫喊,喘息 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
67 sublime | |
adj.崇高的,伟大的;极度的,不顾后果的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
68 sublimest | |
伟大的( sublime的最高级 ); 令人赞叹的; 极端的; 不顾后果的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
69 chivalrous | |
adj.武士精神的;对女人彬彬有礼的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
70 auspices | |
n.资助,赞助 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
71 perils | |
极大危险( peril的名词复数 ); 危险的事(或环境) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
72 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
73 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
74 tune | |
n.调子;和谐,协调;v.调音,调节,调整 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
75 doggerel | |
n.拙劣的诗,打油诗 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
76 alluded | |
提及,暗指( allude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
77 adjourned | |
(使)休会, (使)休庭( adjourn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
78 pastor | |
n.牧师,牧人 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
79 bridled | |
给…套龙头( bridle的过去式和过去分词 ); 控制; 昂首表示轻蔑(或怨忿等); 动怒,生气 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
80 soothes | |
v.安慰( soothe的第三人称单数 );抚慰;使舒服;减轻痛苦 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
81 complimentary | |
adj.赠送的,免费的,赞美的,恭维的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
欢迎访问英文小说网 |