How the men and women of the religious order of Theleme were apparelled.
The ladies at the foundation of this order were apparelled after their own pleasure and liking1; but, since that of their own accord and free will they have reformed themselves, their accoutrement is in manner as followeth. They wore stockings of scarlet2 crimson3, or ingrained purple dye, which reached just three inches above the knee, having a list beautified with exquisite4 embroideries5 and rare incisions6 of the cutter’s art. Their garters were of the colour of their bracelets7, and circled the knee a little both over and under. Their shoes, pumps, and slippers8 were either of red, violet, or crimson-velvet9, pinked and jagged like lobster10 waddles11.
Next to their smock they put on the pretty kirtle or vasquin of pure silk camlet: above that went the taffety or tabby farthingale, of white, red, tawny13, grey, or of any other colour. Above this taffety petticoat they had another of cloth of tissue or brocade, embroidered14 with fine gold and interlaced with needlework, or as they thought good, and according to the temperature and disposition15 of the weather had their upper coats of satin, damask, or velvet, and those either orange, tawny, green, ash-coloured, blue, yellow, bright red, crimson, or white, and so forth16; or had them of cloth of gold, cloth of silver, or some other choice stuff, enriched with purl, or embroidered according to the dignity of the festival days and times wherein they wore them.
Their gowns, being still correspondent to the season, were either of cloth of gold frizzled with a silver-raised work; of red satin, covered with gold purl; of tabby, or taffety, white, blue, black, tawny, &c., of silk serge, silk camlet, velvet, cloth of silver, silver tissue, cloth of gold, gold wire, figured velvet, or figured satin tinselled and overcast17 with golden threads, in divers18 variously purfled draughts19.
In the summer some days instead of gowns they wore light handsome mantles20, made either of the stuff of the aforesaid attire21, or like Moresco rugs, of violet velvet frizzled, with a raised work of gold upon silver purl, or with a knotted cord-work of gold embroidery22, everywhere garnished23 with little Indian pearls. They always carried a fair panache24, or plume25 of feathers, of the colour of their muff, bravely adorned26 and tricked out with glistering spangles of gold. In the winter time they had their taffety gowns of all colours, as above-named, and those lined with the rich furrings of hind-wolves, or speckled lynxes, black-spotted weasels, martlet skins of Calabria, sables27, and other costly28 furs of an inestimable value. Their beads29, rings, bracelets, collars, carcanets, and neck-chains were all of precious stones, such as carbuncles, rubies30, baleus, diamonds, sapphires31, emeralds, turquoises32, garnets, agates33, beryls, and excellent margarites. Their head-dressing also varied34 with the season of the year, according to which they decked themselves. In winter it was of the French fashion; in the spring, of the Spanish; in summer, of the fashion of Tuscany, except only upon the holy days and Sundays, at which times they were accoutred in the French mode, because they accounted it more honourable35 and better befitting the garb36 of a matronal pudicity.
The men were apparelled after their fashion. Their stockings were of tamine or of cloth serge, of white, black, scarlet, or some other ingrained colour. Their breeches were of velvet, of the same colour with their stockings, or very near, embroidered and cut according to their fancy. Their doublet was of cloth of gold, of cloth of silver, of velvet, satin, damask, taffeties, &c., of the same colours, cut, embroidered, and suitably trimmed up in perfection. The points were of silk of the same colours; the tags were of gold well enamelled. Their coats and jerkins were of cloth of gold, cloth of silver, gold, tissue or velvet embroidered, as they thought fit. Their gowns were every whit12 as costly as those of the ladies. Their girdles were of silks, of the colour of their doublets. Every one had a gallant37 sword by his side, the hilt and handle whereof were gilt38, and the scabbard of velvet, of the colour of his breeches, with a chape of gold, and pure goldsmith’s work. The dagger39 was of the same. Their caps or bonnets40 were of black velvet, adorned with jewels and buttons of gold. Upon that they wore a white plume, most prettily41 and minion-like parted by so many rows of gold spangles, at the end whereof hung dangling42 in a more sparkling resplendency fair rubies, emeralds, diamonds, &c., but there was such a sympathy betwixt the gallants and the ladies, that every day they were apparelled in the same livery. And that they might not miss, there were certain gentlemen appointed to tell the youths every morning what vestments the ladies would on that day wear: for all was done according to the pleasure of the ladies. In these so handsome clothes, and habiliments so rich, think not that either one or other of either sex did waste any time at all; for the masters of the wardrobes had all their raiments and apparel so ready for every morning, and the chamber-ladies so well skilled, that in a trice they would be dressed and completely in their clothes from head to foot. And to have those accoutrements with the more conveniency, there was about the wood of Theleme a row of houses of the extent of half a league, very neat and cleanly, wherein dwelt the goldsmiths, lapidaries43, jewellers, embroiderers, tailors, gold-drawers, velvet-weavers, tapestry-makers and upholsterers, who wrought44 there every one in his own trade, and all for the aforesaid jolly friars and nuns45 of the new stamp. They were furnished with matter and stuff from the hands of the Lord Nausiclete, who every year brought them seven ships from the Perlas and Cannibal Islands, laden46 with ingots of gold, with raw silk, with pearls and precious stones. And if any margarites, called unions, began to grow old and lose somewhat of their natural whiteness and lustre47, those with their art they did renew by tendering them to eat to some pretty cocks, as they use to give casting unto hawks48.
1 liking | |
n.爱好;嗜好;喜欢 | |
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2 scarlet | |
n.深红色,绯红色,红衣;adj.绯红色的 | |
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3 crimson | |
n./adj.深(绯)红色(的);vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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4 exquisite | |
adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的 | |
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5 embroideries | |
刺绣( embroidery的名词复数 ); 刺绣品; 刺绣法 | |
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6 incisions | |
n.切开,切口( incision的名词复数 ) | |
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7 bracelets | |
n.手镯,臂镯( bracelet的名词复数 ) | |
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8 slippers | |
n. 拖鞋 | |
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9 velvet | |
n.丝绒,天鹅绒;adj.丝绒制的,柔软的 | |
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10 lobster | |
n.龙虾,龙虾肉 | |
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11 waddles | |
v.(像鸭子一样)摇摇摆摆地走( waddle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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12 whit | |
n.一点,丝毫 | |
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13 tawny | |
adj.茶色的,黄褐色的;n.黄褐色 | |
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14 embroidered | |
adj.绣花的 | |
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15 disposition | |
n.性情,性格;意向,倾向;排列,部署 | |
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16 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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17 overcast | |
adj.阴天的,阴暗的,愁闷的;v.遮盖,(使)变暗,包边缝;n.覆盖,阴天 | |
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18 divers | |
adj.不同的;种种的 | |
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19 draughts | |
n. <英>国际跳棋 | |
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20 mantles | |
vt.&vi.覆盖(mantle的第三人称单数形式) | |
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21 attire | |
v.穿衣,装扮[同]array;n.衣着;盛装 | |
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22 embroidery | |
n.绣花,刺绣;绣制品 | |
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23 garnished | |
v.给(上餐桌的食物)加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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24 panache | |
n.羽饰;假威风,炫耀 | |
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25 plume | |
n.羽毛;v.整理羽毛,骚首弄姿,用羽毛装饰 | |
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26 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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27 sables | |
n.紫貂( sable的名词复数 );紫貂皮;阴暗的;暗夜 | |
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28 costly | |
adj.昂贵的,价值高的,豪华的 | |
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29 beads | |
n.(空心)小珠子( bead的名词复数 );水珠;珠子项链 | |
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30 rubies | |
红宝石( ruby的名词复数 ); 红宝石色,深红色 | |
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31 sapphires | |
n.蓝宝石,钢玉宝石( sapphire的名词复数 );蔚蓝色 | |
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32 turquoises | |
n.绿松石( turquoise的名词复数 );青绿色 | |
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33 agates | |
n.玛瑙( agate的名词复数 );玛瑙制(或装有玛瑙的)工具; (小孩玩的)玛瑙纹玩具弹子;5。5磅铅字 | |
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34 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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35 honourable | |
adj.可敬的;荣誉的,光荣的 | |
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36 garb | |
n.服装,装束 | |
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37 gallant | |
adj.英勇的,豪侠的;(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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38 gilt | |
adj.镀金的;n.金边证券 | |
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39 dagger | |
n.匕首,短剑,剑号 | |
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40 bonnets | |
n.童帽( bonnet的名词复数 );(烟囱等的)覆盖物;(苏格兰男子的)无边呢帽;(女子戴的)任何一种帽子 | |
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41 prettily | |
adv.优美地;可爱地 | |
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42 dangling | |
悬吊着( dangle的现在分词 ); 摆动不定; 用某事物诱惑…; 吊胃口 | |
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43 lapidaries | |
n.宝石匠,玉石雕刻师( lapidary的名词复数 ) | |
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44 wrought | |
v.引起;以…原料制作;运转;adj.制造的 | |
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45 nuns | |
n.(通常指基督教的)修女, (佛教的)尼姑( nun的名词复数 ) | |
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46 laden | |
adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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47 lustre | |
n.光亮,光泽;荣誉 | |
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48 hawks | |
鹰( hawk的名词复数 ); 鹰派人物,主战派人物 | |
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