Around Our House
WHEN we left the palace we were still but seafarers ashore1; and within the hour we had installed our goods in one of the six foreign houses of Butaritari, namely, that usually occupied by Maka, the Hawaiian missionary2. Two San Francisco firms are here established, Messrs. Crawford and Messrs. Wightman Brothers; the first hard by the palace of the mid3 town, the second at the north entry; each with a store and bar-room. Our house was in the Wightman compound, betwixt the store and bar, within a fenced enclosure. Across the road a few native houses nestled in the margin4 of the bush, and the green wall of palms rose solid, shutting out the breeze. A little sandy cove5 of the lagoon6 ran in behind, sheltered by a verandah pier7, the labour of queens’ hands. Here, when the tide was high, sailed boats lay to be loaded; when the tide was low, the boats took ground some half a mile away, and an endless series of natives descended8 the pier stair, tailed across the sand in strings9 and clusters, waded10 to the waist with the bags of copra, and loitered backward to renew their charge. The mystery of the copra trade tormented11 me, as I sat and watched the profits drip on the stair and the sands.
In front, from shortly after four in the morning until nine at night, the folk of the town streamed by us intermittingly along the road: families going up the island to make copra on their lands; women bound for the bush to gather flowers against the evening toilet; and, twice a day, the toddy-cutters, each with his knife and shell. In the first grey of the morning, and again late in the afternoon, these would straggle past about their tree-top business, strike off here and there into the bush, and vanish from the face of the earth. At about the same hour, if the tide be low in the lagoon, you are likely to be bound yourself across the island for a bath, and may enter close at their heels alleys13 of the palm wood. Right in front, although the sun is not yet risen, the east is already lighted with preparatory fires, and the huge accumulations of the trade-wind cloud glow with and heliograph the coming day. The breeze is in your face; overhead in the tops of the palms, its playthings, it maintains a lively bustle14; look where you will, above or below, there is no human presence, only the earth and shaken forest. And right overhead the song of an invisible singer breaks from the thick leaves; from farther on a second tree-top answers; and beyond again, in the bosom15 of the woods, a still more distant minstrel perches16 and sways and sings. So, all round the isle17, the toddy-cutters sit on high, and are rocked by the trade, and have a view far to seaward, where they keep watch for sails, and like huge birds utter their songs in the morning. They sing with a certain lustiness and Bacchic glee; the volume of sound and the articulate melody fall unexpected from the tree-top, whence we anticipate the chattering18 of fowls20. And yet in a sense these songs also are but chatter19; the words are ancient, obsolete21, and sacred; few comprehend them, perhaps no one perfectly22; but it was understood the cutters ‘prayed to have good toddy, and sang of their old wars.’ The prayer is at least answered; and when the foaming23 shell is brought to your door, you have a beverage24 well ‘worthy of a grace.’ All forenoon you may return and taste; it only sparkles, and sharpens, and grows to be a new drink, not less delicious; but with the progress of the day the fermentation quickens and grows acid; in twelve hours it will be yeast25 for bread, in two days more a devilish intoxicant, the counsellor of crime.
The men are of a marked Arabian cast of features, often bearded and mustached, often gaily26 dressed, some with bracelets27 and anklets, all stalking hidalgo-like, and accepting salutations with a haughty28 lip. The hair (with the dandies of either sex) is worn turban-wise in a frizzled bush; and like the daggers29 of the Japanese a pointed30 stick (used for a comb) is thrust gallantly32 among the curls. The women from this bush of hair look forth33 enticingly34: the race cannot be compared with the Tahitian for female beauty; I doubt even if the average be high; but some of the prettiest girls, and one of the handsomest women I ever saw, were Gilbertines. Butaritari, being the commercial centre of the group, is Europeanised; the coloured sacque or the white shift are common wear, the latter for the evening; the trade hat, loaded with flowers, fruit, and ribbons, is unfortunately not unknown; and the characteristic female dress of the Gilberts no longer universal. The RIDI is its name: a cutty petticoat or fringe of the smoked fibre of cocoa-nut leaf, not unlike tarry string: the lower edge not reaching the mid-thigh, the upper adjusted so low upon the haunches that it seems to cling by accident. A sneeze, you think, and the lady must surely be left destitute35. ‘The perilous36, hairbreadth ridi’ was our word for it; and in the conflict that rages over women’s dress it has the misfortune to please neither side, the prudish37 condemning38 it as insufficient39, the more frivolous40 finding it unlovely in itself. Yet if a pretty Gilbertine would look her best, that must be her costume. In that and naked otherwise, she moves with an incomparable liberty and grace and life, that marks the poetry of Micronesia. Bundle her in a gown, the charm is fled, and she wriggles41 like an Englishwoman.
Towards dusk the passers-by became more gorgeous. The men broke out in all the colours of the rainbow — or at least of the trade — room, — and both men and women began to be adorned42 and scented43 with new flowers. A small white blossom is the favourite, sometimes sown singly in a woman’s hair like little stars, now composed in a thick wreath. With the night, the crowd sometimes thickened in the road, and the padding and brushing of bare feet became continuous; the promenades44 mostly grave, the silence only interrupted by some giggling45 and scampering46 of girls; even the children quiet. At nine, bed-time struck on a bell from the cathedral, and the life of the town ceased. At four the next morning the signal is repeated in the darkness, and the innocent prisoners set free; but for seven hours all must lie — I was about to say within doors, of a place where doors, and even walls, are an exception — housed, at least, under their airy roofs and clustered in the tents of the mosquito — nets. Suppose a necessary errand to occur, suppose it imperative47 to send abroad, the messenger must then go openly, advertising48 himself to the police with a huge brand of cocoa-nut, which flares49 from house to house like a moving bonfire. Only the police themselves go darkling, and grope in the night for misdemeanants. I used to hate their treacherous50 presence; their captain in particular, a crafty51 old man in white, lurked52 nightly about my premises53 till I could have found it in my heart to beat him. But the rogue54 was privileged.
Not one of the eleven resident traders came to town, no captain cast anchor in the lagoon, but we saw him ere the hour was out. This was owing to our position between the store and the bar — the SANS SOUCI, as the last was called. Mr. Rick was not only Messrs. Wightman’s manager, but consular55 agent for the States; Mrs. Rick was the only white woman on the island, and one of the only two in the archipelago; their house besides, with its cool verandahs, its bookshelves, its comfortable furniture, could not be rivalled nearer than Jaluit or Honolulu. Every one called in consequence, save such as might be prosecuting56 a South Sea quarrel, hingeing on the price of copra and the odd cent, or perhaps a difference about poultry57. Even these, if they did not appear upon the north, would be presently visible to the southward, the SANS SOUCI drawing them as with cords. In an island with a total population of twelve white persons, one of the two drinking-shops might seem superfluous58: but every bullet has its billet, and the double accommodation of Butaritari is found in practice highly convenient by the captains and the crews of ships: THE LAND WE LIVE IN being tacitly resigned to the forecastle, the SANS SOUCI tacitly reserved for the afterguard. So aristocratic were my habits, so commanding was my fear of Mr. Williams, that I have never visited the first; but in the other, which was the club or rather the casino of the island, I regularly passed my evenings. It was small, but neatly59 fitted, and at night (when the lamp was lit) sparkled with glass and glowed with coloured pictures like a theatre at Christmas. The pictures were advertisements, the glass coarse enough, the carpentry amateur; but the effect, in that incongruous isle, was of unbridled luxury and inestimable expense. Here songs were sung, tales told, tricks performed, games played. The Ricks, ourselves, Norwegian Tom the bar-keeper, a captain or two from the ships, and perhaps three or four traders come down the island in their boats or by the road on foot, made up the usual company. The traders, all bred to the sea, take a humorous pride in their new business; ‘South Sea Merchants’ is the title they prefer. ‘We are all sailors here’ — ‘Merchants, if you please’ — ‘SOUTH SEA Merchants,’ — was a piece of conversation endlessly repeated, that never seemed to lose in savour. We found them at all times simple, genial60, gay, gallant31, and obliging; and, across some interval61 of time, recall with pleasure the traders of Butaritari. There was one black sheep indeed. I tell of him here where he lived, against my rule; for in this case I have no measure to preserve, and the man is typical of a class of ruffians that once disgraced the whole field of the South Seas, and still linger in the rarely visited isles62 of Micronesia. He had the name on the beach of ‘a perfect gentleman when sober,’ but I never saw him otherwise than drunk. The few shocking and savage63 traits of the Micronesian he has singled out with the skill of a collector, and planted in the soil of his original baseness. He has been accused and acquitted64 of a treacherous murder; and has since boastfully owned it, which inclines me to suppose him innocent. His daughter is defaced by his erroneous cruelty, for it was his wife he had intended to disfigure, and in the darkness of the night and the frenzy66 of coco — brandy, fastened on the wrong victim. The wife has since fled and harbours in the bush with natives; and the husband still demands from deaf ears her forcible restoration. The best of his business is to make natives drink, and then advance the money for the fine upon a lucrative67 mortgage. ‘Respect for whites’ is the man’s word: ‘What is the matter with this island is the want of respect for whites.’ On his way to Butaritari, while I was there, he spied his wife in the bush with certain natives and made a dash to capture her; whereupon one of her companions drew a knife and the husband retreated: ‘Do you call that proper respect for whites?’ he cried. At an early stage of the acquaintance we proved our respect for his kind of white by forbidding him our enclosure under pain of death. Thenceforth he lingered often in the neighbourhood with I knew not what sense of envy or design of mischief68; his white, handsome face (which I beheld69 with loathing) looked in upon us at all hours across the fence; and once, from a safe distance, he avenged70 himself by shouting a recondite71 island insult, to us quite inoffensive, on his English lips incredibly incongruous.
Our enclosure, round which this composite of degradations72 wandered, was of some extent. In one corner was a trellis with a long table of rough boards. Here the Fourth of July feast had been held not long before with memorable73 consequences, yet to be set forth; here we took our meals; here entertained to a dinner the king and notables of Makin. In the midst was the house, with a verandah front and back, and three is rooms within. In the verandah we slung74 our man-of-war hammocks, worked there by day, and slept at night. Within were beds, chairs, a round table, a fine hanging lamp, and portraits of the royal family of Hawaii. Queen Victoria proves nothing; Kalakaua and Mrs. Bishop75 are diagnostic; and the truth is we were the stealthy tenants76 of the parsonage. On the day of our arrival Maka was away; faithless trustees unlocked his doors; and the dear rigorous man, the sworn foe77 of liquor and tobacco, returned to find his verandah littered with cigarettes and his parlour horrible with bottles. He made but one condition — on the round table, which he used in the celebration of the sacraments, he begged us to refrain from setting liquor; in all else he bowed to the accomplished78 fact, refused rent, retired79 across the way into a native house, and, plying80 in his boat, beat the remotest quarters of the isle for provender81. He found us pigs — I could not fancy where — no other pigs were visible; he brought us fowls and taro82; when we gave our feast to the monarch83 and gentry84, it was he who supplied the wherewithal, he who superintended the cooking, he who asked grace at table, and when the king’s health was proposed, he also started the cheering with an English hip-hip-hip. There was never a more fortunate conception; the heart of the fatted king exulted85 in his bosom at the sound.
Take him for all in all, I have never known a more engaging creature than this parson of Butaritari: his mirth, his kindness, his noble, friendly feelings, brimmed from the man in speech and gesture. He loved to exaggerate, to act and overact the momentary86 part, to exercise his lungs and muscles, and to speak and laugh with his whole body. He had the morning cheerfulness of birds and healthy children; and his humour was infectious. We were next neighbours and met daily, yet our salutations lasted minutes at a stretch — shaking hands, slapping shoulders, capering87 like a pair of Merry-Andrews, laughing to split our sides upon some pleasantry that would scarce raise a titter in an infant-school. It might be five in the morning, the toddy-cutters just gone by, the road empty, the shade of the island lying far on the lagoon: and the ebullition cheered me for the day.
Yet I always suspected Maka of a secret melancholy88 — these jubilant extremes could scarce be constantly maintained. He was besides long, and lean, and lined, and corded, and a trifle grizzled; and his Sabbath countenance89 was even saturnine90. On that day we made a procession to the church, or (as I must always call it) the cathedral: Maka (a blot91 on the hot landscape) in tall hat, black frock-coat, black trousers; under his arm the hymn-book and the Bible; in his face, a reverent92 gravity:— beside him Mary his wife, a quiet, wise, and handsome elderly lady, seriously attired:— myself following with singular and moving thoughts. Long before, to the sound of bells and streams and birds, through a green Lothian glen, I had accompanied Sunday by Sunday a minister in whose house I lodged93; and the likeness94, and the difference, and the series of years and deaths, profoundly touched me. In the great, dusky, palm-tree cathedral the congregation rarely numbered thirty: the men on one side, the women on the other, myself posted (for a privilege) amongst the women, and the small missionary contingent95 gathered close around the platform, we were lost in that round vault96. The lessons were read antiphonally, the flock was catechised, a blind youth repeated weekly a long string of psalms97, hymns98 were sung — I never heard worse singing, — and the sermon followed. To say I understood nothing were untrue; there were points that I learned to expect with certainty; the name of Honolulu, that of Kalakaua, the word Cap’n-man-o’-wa’, the word ship, and a description of a storm at sea, infallibly occurred; and I was not seldom rewarded with the name of my own Sovereign in the bargain. The rest was but sound to the ears, silence for the mind: a plain expanse of tedium99, rendered unbearable100 by heat, a hard chair, and the sight through the wide doors of the more happy heathen on the green. Sleep breathed on my joints101 and eyelids102, sleep hummed in my ears; it reigned103 in the dim cathedral. The congregation stirred and stretched; they moaned, they groaned104 aloud; they yawned upon a singing note, as you may sometimes hear a dog when he has reached the tragic105 bitterest of boredom106. In vain the preacher thumped107 the table; in vain he singled and addressed by name particular hearers. I was myself perhaps a more effective excitant; and at least to one old gentleman the spectacle of my successful struggles against sleep — and I hope they were successful — cheered the flight of time. He, when he was not catching108 flies or playing tricks upon his neighbours, gloated with a fixed109, truculent110 eye upon the stages of my agony; and once, when the service was drawing towards a close, he winked111 at me across the church.
I write of the service with a smile; yet I was always there — always with respect for Maka, always with admiration112 for his deep seriousness, his burning energy, the fire of his roused eye, the sincere and various accents of his voice. To see him weekly flogging a dead horse and blowing a cold fire was a lesson in fortitude113 and constancy. It may be a question whether if the mission were fully65 supported, and he was set free from business avocations114, more might not result; I think otherwise myself; I think not neglect but rigour has reduced his flock, that rigour which has once provoked a revolution, and which to-day, in a man so lively and engaging, amazes the beholder115. No song, no dance, no tobacco, no liquor, no alleviative116 of life — only toil12 and church — going; so says a voice from his face; and the face is the face of the Polynesian Esau, but the voice is the voice of a Jacob from a different world. And a Polynesian at the best makes a singular missionary in the Gilberts, coming from a country recklessly unchaste to one conspicuously117 strict; from a race hag-ridden with bogies to one comparatively bold against the terrors of the dark. The thought was stamped one morning in my mind, when I chanced to be abroad by moonlight, and saw all the town lightless, but the lamp faithfully burning by the missionary’s bed. It requires no law, no fire, and no scouting118 police, to withhold119 Maka and his countrymen from wandering in the night unlighted.
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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mid
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| adj.中央的，中间的 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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strings
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waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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tormented
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| 饱受折磨的 | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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bustle
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| v.喧扰地忙乱，匆忙，奔忙；n.忙碌；喧闹 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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perches
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| 栖息处( perch的名词复数 )； 栖枝； 高处； 鲈鱼 | |
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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chatter
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| vi.／n.喋喋不休；短促尖叫；(牙齿)打战 | |
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fowls
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| 鸟( fowl的名词复数 )； 禽肉； 既不是这； 非驴非马 | |
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obsolete
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| adj.已废弃的，过时的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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foaming
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| adj.布满泡沫的；发泡 | |
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beverage
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| n.(水，酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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yeast
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| n.酵母；酵母片；泡沫；v.发酵；起泡沫 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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bracelets
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| n.手镯，臂镯( bracelet的名词复数 ) | |
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haughty
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| adj.傲慢的，高傲的 | |
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daggers
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| 匕首，短剑( dagger的名词复数 ) | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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gallantly
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| adv. 漂亮地，勇敢地，献殷勤地 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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enticingly
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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perilous
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| adj.危险的，冒险的 | |
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prudish
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| adj.装淑女样子的，装规矩的，过分规矩的；adv.过分拘谨地 | |
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condemning
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| v.（通常因道义上的原因而）谴责( condemn的现在分词 )；宣判；宣布…不能使用；迫使…陷于不幸的境地 | |
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insufficient
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| adj.(for，of)不足的，不够的 | |
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frivolous
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| adj.轻薄的；轻率的 | |
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wriggles
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| n.蠕动，扭动( wriggle的名词复数 )v.扭动，蠕动，蜿蜒行进( wriggle的第三人称单数 )；（使身体某一部位）扭动；耍滑不做，逃避（应做的事等） | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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scented
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| adj.有香味的；洒香水的；有气味的v.嗅到(scent的过去分词) | |
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promenades
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| n.人行道( promenade的名词复数 )；散步场所；闲逛v.兜风( promenade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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giggling
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| v.咯咯地笑( giggle的现在分词 ) | |
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scampering
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| v.蹦蹦跳跳地跑，惊惶奔跑( scamper的现在分词 ) | |
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imperative
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| n.命令，需要；规则；祈使语气；adj.强制的；紧急的 | |
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advertising
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| n.广告业；广告活动 a.广告的；广告业务的 | |
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flares
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| n.喇叭裤v.（使）闪耀( flare的第三人称单数 )；（使）（船舷）外倾；（使）鼻孔张大；（使）（衣裙、酒杯等）呈喇叭形展开 | |
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treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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crafty
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| adj.狡猾的，诡诈的 | |
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52
lurked
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| vi.潜伏，埋伏（lurk的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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premises
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| n.建筑物，房屋 | |
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rogue
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| n.流氓；v.游手好闲 | |
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consular
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| a.领事的 | |
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prosecuting
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| 检举、告发某人( prosecute的现在分词 )； 对某人提起公诉； 继续从事（某事物）； 担任控方律师 | |
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poultry
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| n.家禽，禽肉 | |
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superfluous
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| adj.过多的，过剩的，多余的 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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62
isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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63
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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64
acquitted
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| 宣判…无罪( acquit的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（自己）作出某种表现 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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66
frenzy
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| n.疯狂，狂热，极度的激动 | |
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67
lucrative
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| adj.赚钱的，可获利的 | |
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68
mischief
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| n.损害，伤害，危害；恶作剧，捣蛋，胡闹 | |
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69
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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70
avenged
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| v.为…复仇，报…之仇( avenge的过去式和过去分词 )；为…报复 | |
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71
recondite
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| adj.深奥的，难解的 | |
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72
degradations
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| 堕落( degradation的名词复数 )； 下降； 陵削； 毁坏 | |
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73
memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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76
tenants
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| n.房客( tenant的名词复数 )；佃户；占用者；占有者 | |
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77
foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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78
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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79
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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80
plying
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| v.使用（工具）( ply的现在分词 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
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81
provender
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| n.刍草；秣料 | |
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82
taro
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| n.芋，芋头 | |
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83
monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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gentry
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| n.绅士阶级，上层阶级 | |
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85
exulted
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| 狂喜，欢跃( exult的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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86
momentary
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| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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87
capering
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| v.跳跃，雀跃( caper的现在分词 )；蹦蹦跳跳 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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90
saturnine
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| adj.忧郁的，沉默寡言的，阴沉的，感染铅毒的 | |
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blot
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| vt.弄脏（用吸墨纸）吸干；n.污点，污渍 | |
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reverent
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| adj.恭敬的，虔诚的 | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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likeness
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| n.相像，相似（之处） | |
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95
contingent
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| adj.视条件而定的；n.一组，代表团，分遣队 | |
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vault
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| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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97
psalms
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| n.赞美诗( psalm的名词复数 )；圣诗；圣歌；(中的) | |
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98
hymns
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| n.赞美诗，圣歌，颂歌( hymn的名词复数 ) | |
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99
tedium
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| n.单调；烦闷 | |
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100
unbearable
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| adj.不能容忍的；忍受不住的 | |
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101
joints
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| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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102
eyelids
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| n.眼睑( eyelid的名词复数 )；眼睛也不眨一下；不露声色；面不改色 | |
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103
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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104
groaned
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| v.呻吟( groan的过去式和过去分词 )；发牢骚；抱怨；受苦 | |
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105
tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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106
boredom
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| n.厌烦，厌倦，乏味，无聊 | |
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107
thumped
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| v.重击， （指心脏）急速跳动( thump的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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108
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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109
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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110
truculent
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| adj.野蛮的，粗野的 | |
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111
winked
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| v.使眼色( wink的过去式和过去分词 )；递眼色（表示友好或高兴等）；（指光）闪烁；闪亮 | |
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112
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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113
fortitude
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| n.坚忍不拔；刚毅 | |
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114
avocations
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| n.业余爱好，嗜好( avocation的名词复数 )；职业 | |
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115
beholder
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| n.观看者，旁观者 | |
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116
alleviative
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| adj. 减轻的 n. 使减轻之物, 缓和剂 | |
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117
conspicuously
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| ad.明显地，惹人注目地 | |
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118
scouting
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| 守候活动，童子军的活动 | |
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119
withhold
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| v.拒绝，不给；使停止，阻挡 | |
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