I longed to get north again quit of this relaxing camp. Abdulla might let me do all I wanted, but would do nothing of his own: whereas for me the best value of the revolt lay in the things which the Arabs attempted without our aid. Feisal was the working enthusiast9 with the one idea of making his ancient race justify10 its renown11 by winning freedom with its own hands. His lieutenants12 Nasir or Sharraf or Ali ibn el Hussein seconded his plans with head and heart, so that my part became only synthetic13. I combined their loose showers of sparks into a firm flame: transformed their series of unrelated incidents into a conscious operation.
We left on the morning of April the tenth, after pleasant farewells from Abdulla. My three Ageyl were again with me; and Arslan, the little Syrian Punch-figure, very conscious of Arab dress, and of the droll14 outlook and manners of all Bedouins. He rode disgracefully and endured sorrow the whole way at the uneasy steps of his camels: but he salved his self-respect by pointing out that in Damascus no decent man would ride a camel, and his humour by showing that in Arabia no one but a Damascene would ride so bad a camel as his. Mohammed el Kadhi was our guide, with six Juheina.
We marched up Wadi Tleih as we had come, but branched off to the right, avoiding the lava15. We had brought no food, so stopped at some tents for hospitality of their rice and millet16. This springtime in the hills was the time of plenty for the Arabs, whose tents were full of sheep-milk and goat-milk and camel-milk, with everyone well fed and well looking. Afterwards we rode, in weather like a summer’s day in England, for five hours down a narrow, flood-swept valley, Wadi Osman, which turned and twisted in the hills hut gave an easy road. The last part of the march was after dark, and when we stopped, Arslan was missing. We fired volleys and lit fires hoping he would come upon us; but till dawn there was no sign, and the Juheina ran back and forward in doubting search. However, he was only a mile behind, fast asleep under a tree.
A short hour later we stopped at the tents of a wife of Dakhil-Allah, for a meal. Mohammed allowed himself a bath, a fresh braiding of his luxuriant hair, and clean clothes. They took very long about the food, and it was not till near noon that at last it came: a great bowl of saffron-rice, with a broken lamb littered over it. Mohammed, who felt it his duty in my honour to be dainty in service, arrested the main dish, and took from it the fill of a small copper17 basin for him and me. Then he waved the rest of the camp on to the large supply. Mohammed’s mother knew herself old enough to be curious about me. She questioned me about the women of the tribe of Christians18 and their way of life, marvelling19 at my white skin, and the horrible blue eyes which looked, she said, like the sky shining through the eye-sockets of an empty skull20.
Wadi Osman to-day was less irregular in course, and broadened slowly. After two hours and a half it twisted suddenly to the right through a gap, and we found ourselves in Hamdh, in a narrow, cliff-walled gorge21. As usual, the edges of the bed of hard sand were bare; and the middle bristled22 with hamdla-asla trees, in grey, salty, bulging23 scabs. Before us were flood-pools of sweet water, the largest of them nearly three hundred feet long, and sharply deep. Its narrow bed was cut into the light impervious24 clay. Mohammed said its water would remain till the year’s end, but would soon turn salt and useless.
After drinks we bathed in it, and found it full of little silver fish like sardines25: all ravenous26. We loitered after bathing, prolonging our bodily pleasure; and remounting in the dark, rode for six miles, till sleepy. Then we turned away to higher ground for the night’s camp. Wadi Hamdh differed from the other wild valleys of Hejaz, in its chill air. This was, of course, most obvious at night, when a white mist, glazing27 the valley with a salt sweat, lifted itself some feet up and stood over it motionless. But even by day, and in sunshine the Hamdh felt damp and raw and unnatural28.
Next morning we started early and passed large pools in the valley; but only a few were fit to drink: the rest had gone green and brackish29 with the little white fish floating, dead and pickled, in them. Afterwards we crossed the bed, and struck northward30 over the plain of Ugila, where Ross, our flight commander from Wejh, had lately made an aerodrome. Arab guards were sitting by his petrol, and we breakfasted from them, and afterwards went along Wadi Methar to a shady tree, where we slept four hours.
In the afternoon everyone was fresh, and the Juheina began to match their camels against one another. At first it was two and two, but the others joined, till they were six abreast31. The road was bad, and finally, one lad cantered his animal into a heap of stones. She slipped, so that he crashed off and broke an arm. It was a misfortune: but Mohammed coolly tied him up with rags and camel-girths, and left him at ease under a tree to rest a little before riding back to Ugila for the night. The Arabs were casual about broken bones. In a tent at Wadi Ais I had seen a youth whose forearm had set crookedly33; realizing this, he had dug into himself with a dagger34 till he had bared the bone, re-broken it, and set it straight; and there he lay, philosophically35 enduring the flies, with his left forearm huge under healing mosses36 and clay, waiting for it to be well.
In the morning we pushed on to Khauthila, a well, where we watered the camels. The water was impure37 and purged38 them. We rode again in the evening for another eight miles, intending to race straight through to Wejh in a long last day. So we got up soon after midnight, and before daylight were coming down the long slope from Raal into the plain, which extended across the mouths of Hamdh into the sea. The ground was scarred with motor tracks, exciting a lively ambition in the Juheina to hurry on and see the new wonders of Feisal’s army. Fired by this, we did a straight march of eight hours, unusually long for these Hejaz Bedouin.
We were then reasonably tired, both men and camels, since we had had no food after breakfast the day before. Therefore it seemed fit to the boy Mohammed to run races. He jumped from his camel, took off his clothes, and challenged us to race to the clump39 of thorns up the slope in front, for a pound English. Everybody took the offer, and the camels set off in a mob. The distance, about three-quarters of a mile, uphill, over heavy sand, proved probably more than Mohammed had bargained for. However, he showed surprising strength and won, though by inches: then he promptly40 collapsed41, bleeding from mouth and nose. Some of our camels were good, and they went their fastest when pitted against one another.
The air here was very hot and heavy for natives of the hills, and I feared there might be consequences of Mohammed’s exhaustion42: but after we had rested an hour and made him a cup of coffee he got going again and did the six remaining hours into Wejh as cheerfully as ever; continuing to play the little pranks43 which had brightened our long march from Abu Markha. If one man rode quietly behind another’s camel, poked44 his stick suddenly up its rump, and screeched45, it mistook him for an excited male, and plunged46 off at a mad gallop47, very disconcerting to the rider. A second good game was to cannon48 one galloping49 camel with another, and crash it into a near tree. Either the tree went down (valley trees in the light Hejaz soil were notably50 unstable51 things) or the rider was scratched and torn; or, best of all, he was swept quite out of his saddle, and left impaled52 on a thorny53 branch, if not dropped violently to the ground. This counted as a bull, and was very popular with everyone but him.
The Bedu were odd people. For an Englishman, sojourning with them was unsatisfactory unless he had patience wide and deep as the sea. They were absolute slaves of their appetite, with no stamina54 of mind, drunkards for coffee, milk or water, gluttons55 for stewed56 meat, shameless beggars of tobacco. They dreamed for weeks before and after their rare sexual exercises, and spent the intervening days titillating57 themselves and their hearers with bawdy58 tales. Had the circumstances of their lives given them opportunity they would have been sheer sensualists. Their strength was the strength of men geographically59 beyond temptation: the poverty of Arabia made them simple, continent, enduring. If forced into civilized60 life they would have succumbed61 like any savage62 race to its diseases, meanness, luxury, cruelty, crooked32 dealing63, artifice64; and, like savages65, they would have suffered them exaggeratedly for lack of inoculation66.
If they suspected that we wanted to drive them either they were mulish or they went away. If we comprehended them, and gave time and trouble to make things tempting67 to them, then they would go to great pains for our pleasure. Whether the results achieved were worth the effort, no man could tell. Englishmen, accustomed to greater returns, would not, and, indeed, could not, have spent the time, thought and tact1 lavished68 every day by sheikhs and emirs for such meagre ends. Arab processes were clear, Arab minds moved logically as our own, with nothing radically69 incomprehensible or different, except the premiss: there was no excuse or reason, except our laziness and ignorance, whereby we could call them inscrutable or Oriental, or leave them misunderstood.
They would follow us, if we endured with them, and played the game according to their rules. The pity was, that we often began to do so, and broke down with exasperation70 and threw them over, blaming them for what was a fault in our own selves. Such strictures like a general’s complaint of bad troops, were in reality a confession71 of our faulty foresight72, often made falsely out of mock modesty73 to show that, though mistaken, we had at least the wit to know our fault.
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1 tact | |
n.机敏,圆滑,得体 | |
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2 pettishly | |
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3 jealousy | |
n.妒忌,嫉妒,猜忌 | |
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4 ceded | |
v.让给,割让,放弃( cede的过去式 ) | |
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5 demolition | |
n.破坏,毁坏,毁坏之遗迹 | |
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6 wreck | |
n.失事,遇难;沉船;vt.(船等)失事,遇难 | |
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7 garrison | |
n.卫戍部队;驻地,卫戍区;vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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8 sufficiently | |
adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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9 enthusiast | |
n.热心人,热衷者 | |
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10 justify | |
vt.证明…正当(或有理),为…辩护 | |
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11 renown | |
n.声誉,名望 | |
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12 lieutenants | |
n.陆军中尉( lieutenant的名词复数 );副职官员;空军;仅低于…官阶的官员 | |
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13 synthetic | |
adj.合成的,人工的;综合的;n.人工制品 | |
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14 droll | |
adj.古怪的,好笑的 | |
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15 lava | |
n.熔岩,火山岩 | |
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16 millet | |
n.小米,谷子 | |
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17 copper | |
n.铜;铜币;铜器;adj.铜(制)的;(紫)铜色的 | |
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18 Christians | |
n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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19 marvelling | |
v.惊奇,对…感到惊奇( marvel的现在分词 ) | |
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20 skull | |
n.头骨;颅骨 | |
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21 gorge | |
n.咽喉,胃,暴食,山峡;v.塞饱,狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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22 bristled | |
adj. 直立的,多刺毛的 动词bristle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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23 bulging | |
膨胀; 凸出(部); 打气; 折皱 | |
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24 impervious | |
adj.不能渗透的,不能穿过的,不易伤害的 | |
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25 sardines | |
n. 沙丁鱼 | |
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26 ravenous | |
adj.极饿的,贪婪的 | |
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27 glazing | |
n.玻璃装配业;玻璃窗;上釉;上光v.装玻璃( glaze的现在分词 );上釉于,上光;(目光)变得呆滞无神 | |
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28 unnatural | |
adj.不自然的;反常的 | |
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29 brackish | |
adj.混有盐的;咸的 | |
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30 northward | |
adv.向北;n.北方的地区 | |
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31 abreast | |
adv.并排地;跟上(时代)的步伐,与…并进地 | |
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32 crooked | |
adj.弯曲的;不诚实的,狡猾的,不正当的 | |
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33 crookedly | |
adv. 弯曲地,不诚实地 | |
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34 dagger | |
n.匕首,短剑,剑号 | |
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35 philosophically | |
adv.哲学上;富有哲理性地;贤明地;冷静地 | |
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36 mosses | |
n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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37 impure | |
adj.不纯净的,不洁的;不道德的,下流的 | |
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38 purged | |
清除(政敌等)( purge的过去式和过去分词 ); 涤除(罪恶等); 净化(心灵、风气等); 消除(错事等)的不良影响 | |
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39 clump | |
n.树丛,草丛;vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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40 promptly | |
adv.及时地,敏捷地 | |
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41 collapsed | |
adj.倒塌的 | |
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42 exhaustion | |
n.耗尽枯竭,疲惫,筋疲力尽,竭尽,详尽无遗的论述 | |
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43 pranks | |
n.玩笑,恶作剧( prank的名词复数 ) | |
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44 poked | |
v.伸出( poke的过去式和过去分词 );戳出;拨弄;与(某人)性交 | |
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45 screeched | |
v.发出尖叫声( screech的过去式和过去分词 );发出粗而刺耳的声音;高叫 | |
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46 plunged | |
v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 );暴跌;骤降;突降 | |
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47 gallop | |
v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔;飞速发展 | |
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48 cannon | |
n.大炮,火炮;飞机上的机关炮 | |
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49 galloping | |
adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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50 notably | |
adv.值得注意地,显著地,尤其地,特别地 | |
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51 unstable | |
adj.不稳定的,易变的 | |
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52 impaled | |
钉在尖桩上( impale的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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53 thorny | |
adj.多刺的,棘手的 | |
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54 stamina | |
n.体力;精力;耐力 | |
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55 gluttons | |
贪食者( glutton的名词复数 ); 贪图者; 酷爱…的人; 狼獾 | |
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56 stewed | |
adj.焦虑不安的,烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 );煨;思考;担忧 | |
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57 titillating | |
adj.使人痒痒的; 使人激动的,令人兴奋的v.使觉得痒( titillate的现在分词 );逗引;激发;使高兴 | |
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58 bawdy | |
adj.淫猥的,下流的;n.粗话 | |
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59 geographically | |
adv.地理学上,在地理上,地理方面 | |
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60 civilized | |
a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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61 succumbed | |
不再抵抗(诱惑、疾病、攻击等)( succumb的过去式和过去分词 ); 屈从; 被压垮; 死 | |
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62 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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63 dealing | |
n.经商方法,待人态度 | |
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64 artifice | |
n.妙计,高明的手段;狡诈,诡计 | |
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65 savages | |
未开化的人,野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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66 inoculation | |
n.接芽;预防接种 | |
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67 tempting | |
a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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68 lavished | |
v.过分给予,滥施( lavish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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69 radically | |
ad.根本地,本质地 | |
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70 exasperation | |
n.愤慨 | |
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71 confession | |
n.自白,供认,承认 | |
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72 foresight | |
n.先见之明,深谋远虑 | |
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73 modesty | |
n.谦逊,虚心,端庄,稳重,羞怯,朴素 | |
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