NEW YORK CITYIT WAS DUSK WHEN I got my first glimpse of it off in the distance, beyond a ridge1. All I could see were the spires2 and blocky tops of buildings. And then we reached the crest3 of the ridge, and there, across a wide river, was a huge island jammed tip to tip with skyscrapers4, their glass glowing like fire in the setting sun.
My heart started to race, and my palms grew damp. I walked down the bus aisle5 to the tiny restroom in the rear and washed up in the metal basin. I studied my face in the mirror and wondered what New Yorkers would think when they looked at me. Would they see an Appalachian hick, a tall, gawky girl, still all elbows and knees and jutting6 teeth? For years Dad had been telling me I had an inner beauty. Most people didn't see it. I had trouble seeing it myself, but Dad was always saying he could damn well see it and that was what mattered. I hoped when New Yorkers looked at me, they would see whatever it was that Dad saw.
* * *When the bus pulled into the terminal, I collected my suitcase and walked to the middle of the station. A blur7 of hurrying bodies streamed past me, leaving me feeling like a stone in a creek8, and then I heard someone calling my name. He was a pale guy with thick, black-framed glasses that made his eyes look tiny. His name was Evan, and he was a friend of Lori's. She was at work and had asked him to come meet me. Evan offered to carry my suitcase and led me out to the street, a noisy place with crowds backed up waiting to cross the intersection9, cars jammed together, and papers blowing every which way. I followed him right into the thick of it.
After one block, Evan put down my suitcase. "This is heavy," he said. "What do you have in here?""My coal collection."He looked at me blankly.
"Just funning with you," I said and punched him in the shoulder. Evan wasn't too quick on the uptake, but I took that as a good sign. There was no reason for me to be automatically in awe10 of the wit and intellect of these New Yorkers.
I picked up the suitcase. Evan did not insist I give it back to him. In fact, he seemed sort of relieved that I was carrying it. We continued on down the block, and he kept glancing at me sideways.
"You West Virginia girls are one tough breed," he said.
"You got that right," I told him.
* * *Evan dropped me off at a German restaurant called Zum Zum. Lori was behind the counter, carrying four beer steins in each hand, her hair in twin buns and speaking in a thick German accent because, she explained later, it increased tips. "Dees ees mein seester!" she called out to the men at one of her tables. They raised their beer steins and shouted. "Velkomen to New Yorken!"I didn't know any German, so I said, "Grazi!"They all got a chuckle11 out of that. Lori was in the middle of her shift, so I went out to wander the streets. I got lost a couple of times and had to ask directions. People had been warning me for months about how rude New Yorkers were. It was true, I learned that night, that if you tried to stop them on the street, a lot of them kept on walking, shaking their heads; those who did stop didn't look at you at first. They gazed off down the block, their faces closed. But as soon as they realized you weren't trying to hustle12 them or panhandle money, they warmed right up. They looked you in the eye and gave you detailed13 instructions about how, to get to the Empire State Building, you went up nine blocks and made a right and cut across two blocks and so on. They even drew you maps. New Yorkers, I figured, just pretended to be unfriendly.
* * *Later, Lori and I took a subway down to Greenwich Village and walked over to the Evangeline, a women's hostel14 where she had been living. That first night I woke up at three a.m. and saw the sky all lit up a bright orange. I wondered if there was a big fire somewhere, but in the morning Lori told me that the orange glow came from the air pollution refracting the light off the streets and buildings. The night sky here, she said, always had that color. What it meant was that in New York, you could never see the stars. But Venus wasn't a star. I wondered if I'd be able to see it.
The very next day, I landed a job at a hamburger joint15 on Fourteenth Street. After taxes and social security, I'd be taking home over eighty dollars a week. I had spent a lot of time imagining what New York would be like, but the one thing that had never occurred to me was that the opportunities would come so easily. Aside from having to wear those embarrassing red-and-yellow uniforms with matching floppy16 hats, I loved the job. The lunch and dinner rushes were always exciting, with the lines backing up at the counter, the cashiers shouting orders over the microphones, the grill17 guys shoveling hamburgers through the flame-broiling conveyer belt, everyone running from the fixings counter to the drinks station to the infrared18 fries warmer, staying on top of the orders, the manager jumping in to help whenever a crisis cropped up. We got 20 percent off on our meals, and for the first few weeks there, I had a cheeseburger and a chocolate milk shake every day for lunch.
* * *In the middle of the summer, Lori found us an apartment in a neighborhood we could afford梩he South Bronx. The yellow art deco building must have been pretty fancy when it opened, but now graffiti covered the outside walls, and the cracked mirrors in the lobby were held together with duct tape. Still, it had what Mom called good bones.
Our apartment was bigger than the entire house on Little Hobart Street, and way fancier. It had shiny oak parquet19 floors, a foyer with two steps leading down into the living room梬here I slept梐nd, off to the side, a bedroom that became Lori's. We also had a kitchen with a working refrigerator and a gas stove that had a pilot light, so you didn't need matches to get it going, you just turned the dial, listened to the clicking, then watched the circle of blue flame flare20 up through the tiny holes in the burner. My favorite room was the bathroom. It had a black-and-white tile floor, a toilet that flushed with a powerful whoosh21, a tub so deep you could submerge yourself completely in it, and hot water that never ran out.
It didn't bother me that the apartment was in a rough neighborhood; we'd always lived in rough neighborhoods. Puerto Rican kids hung out on the block at all hours, playing music, dancing, sitting on abandoned cars, clustering at the entrance to the elevated subway station and in front of the bodega that sold single cigarettes called loosies. I got jumped a number of times. People were always telling me that if I was robbed, I should hand over my money rather than risk being killed. But I was darned if I was going to give some stranger my hard-earned cash, and I didn't want to become known in the neighborhood as an easy target, so I always fought back. Sometimes I won, sometimes I lost. What worked best was to keep my wits about me. Once, as I was getting on the train, some guy tried to grab my purse, but I jerked it back and the strap22 broke. He fell empty-handed to the platform floor, and as the train pulled out, I looked through the window and gave him a big sarcastic23 wave.
* * *That fall, Lori helped me find a public school where, instead of going to classes, the students signed up for internships all over the city. One of my internships was at The Phoenix24, a weekly newspaper run out of a dingy25 storefront on Atlantic Avenue in downtown Brooklyn, near the old Ex-Lax factory. The owner, publisher, and editor in chief was Mike Armstrong. He saw himself as a muckraking gadfly and had mortgaged his brownstone five times to keep The Phoenix going. The staff all used Underwood manual typewriters with threadbare ribbons and yellowed keys. The E on mine was broken, so I used the @ in its place. We never had copy paper and instead wrote on discarded press releases we dug out of the trash. At least once a month, someone's paycheck bounced. Reporters were always quitting in disgust. In the spring, when Mr. Armstrong was interviewing a journalism26 school graduate for a job opening, a mouse ran over her foot, and she screamed. After she'd left, Mr. Armstrong looked at me. The Brooklyn zoning board was meeting that afternoon and he had no one to cover it. "If you start calling me Mike instead of Mr. Armstrong," he said. "you can have the job."I had just turned eighteen. I quit my job at the hamburger joint the next day and became a full-time27 reporter for The Phoenix. I'd never been happier in my life. I worked ninety-hour weeks, my telephone rang constantly, I was always hurrying off to interviews and checking the ten-dollar Rolex I'd bought on the street to make sure I wasn't running late, rushing back to file my copy, and staying up until four a.m. to set type when the typesetter quit. And I was bringing home $125 a week. If the check cleared.
* * *I wrote Brian long letters describing the sweet life in New York City. He wrote back saying things in Welch were still going downhill. Dad was drunk all the time except when he was in jail; Mom had completely withdrawn28 into her own world; and Maureen was more or less living with neighbors. The ceiling in the bedroom had collapsed29, and Brian had moved his bed onto the porch. He made walls by nailing boards along the railings, but it leaked pretty badly out there, too, so he still slept under the inflatable raft.
I told Lori that Brian should come live with us in New York, and she agreed. But I was afraid Brian would want to stay in Welch. He seemed more of a country boy than a city kid. He was always wandering through the woods, tinkering with a discarded two-stroke engine, chopping wood, or carving30 a block of wood into an animal head. He never complained about Welch, and unlike Lori and me, he'd made a lot of friends there. But I thought it was in Brian's long-term interest to get out of the town. I made a list of reasons he should move to New York, so I could argue him into it.
I called him at Grandpa's and presented my case. He'd need to get a job to pay his share of the rent and groceries, I said, but jobs were going begging in the city. He could share the living room with me梩here was plenty of space for a second bed梩he toilet flushed, and the ceiling never leaked.
When I finished, Brian was silent for a moment. Then he said, "When's the soonest I can come?"* * *Just like me, Brian hopped31 the Trailways bus the morning after completing his junior year. The day after he got to New York, he found a job at an ice-cream parlor32 in Brooklyn, not far from The Phoenix. He said he liked Brooklyn better than Manhattan or the Bronx, but he also developed a habit of dropping by The Phoenix when he got off work and waiting for me until three or four in the morning so we could take the subway together up to the South Bronx. He never said anything, but I think he figured that, as when we were kids, we both stood a better chance if we took on the world together.
I now saw no point in going to college. It was expensive, and my aim in going would have been to get a degree to qualify me for a job as a journalist. But I now had my job at The Phoenix. As for the learning itself, I figured you didn't need a college degree to become one of the people who knew what was really going on. If you paid attention, you could pick things up on your own. And so, if I overheard mention of something I was ignorant about梜eeping Kosher, Tammany Hall, haute couture桰 researched it later on. One day I interviewed a community activist33 who described a particular job program as a throwback to the Progressive Era. I had no idea what the Progressive Era was, and back in the office, I got out the World Book Encyclopedia34. Mike Armstrong wanted to know what I was doing, and when I explained, he asked me if I had ever thought of going to college.
"Why should I give up this job to go to college?" I asked. "You've got college graduates working here who are doing what I'm doing.""You may not believe this," he said. "but there are better jobs out there than the one you've got now. You might get one of them one of these days. But not without a college degree." Mike promised me that if I went to college, I could come back to The Phoenix anytime I wanted. But, he added, he didn't think I would.
* * *Lori's friends told me that Columbia University was the best in New York City. Since it took only men at the time, I applied35 to its sister college, Barnard, and was accepted. I received grants and loans to cover most of the tuition, which was steep, and I'd saved a little money while working at The Phoenix. But to pay for the rest, I had to spend a year answering phones at a Wall Street firm.
Once school started, I could no longer pay my share of the rent, but a psychologist let me have a room in her Upper West Side apartment in exchange for looking after her two small sons. I found a weekend job in an art gallery, crowded all my classes into two days, and became the news editor of the Barnard Bulletin. But I gave that up when I was hired as an editorial assistant three days a week at one of the biggest magazines in the city. Writers there had published books and covered wars and interviewed presidents. I got to forward their mail, check their expense accounts, and do word counts on their manuscripts. I felt I'd arrived.
* * *Mom and Dad called us now and then from Grandpa's to bring us up to date on life in Welch. I began to dread36 those calls, since every time we heard from them, there was a new problem: a mudslide had washed away what was left of the stairs; our neighbors the Freemans were trying to get the house condemned37; Maureen had fallen off the porch and gashed38 her head.
When Lori heard that, she declared it was time for Maureen to move to New York, too. But Maureen was only twelve, and I worried that she might be too young to leave home. She'd been four when we moved to West Virginia, and it was all she really knew.
"Who's going to look after her?" I asked.
"I will," Lori said. "She can stay with me."Lori called Maureen, who got squeally with excitement about the idea, and then Lori talked to Mom and Dad. Mom thought it was a great plan, but Dad accused Lori of stealing his children and declared he was disowning her. Maureen arrived in early winter. By then Brian had moved into a walk-up near the Port Authority bus terminal, and using his address, we enrolled39 Maureen in a good public school in Manhattan. On weekends, we all met at Lori's apartment. We made fried pork chops or heaping plates of spaghetti and meatballs and sat around talking about Welch, laughing so hard at the idea of all that craziness that our eyes watered.
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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spires
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| n.（教堂的） 塔尖，尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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skyscrapers
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| n.摩天大楼 | |
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aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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jutting
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| v.（使）突出( jut的现在分词 )；伸出；（从…）突出；高出 | |
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blur
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| n.模糊不清的事物；vt.使模糊，使看不清楚 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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intersection
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| n.交集，十字路口，交叉点；[计算机] 交集 | |
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awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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chuckle
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| vi.／n.轻声笑，咯咯笑 | |
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hustle
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| v.推搡；竭力兜售或获取；催促；n.奔忙(碌) | |
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detailed
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| adj.详细的，详尽的，极注意细节的，完全的 | |
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hostel
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| n.（学生）宿舍，招待所 | |
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joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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floppy
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| adj.松软的，衰弱的 | |
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grill
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| n.烤架，铁格子，烤肉；v.烧，烤，严加盘问 | |
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infrared
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| adj./n.红外线(的) | |
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parquet
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| n.镶木地板 | |
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flare
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| v.闪耀，闪烁；n.潮红；突发 | |
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whoosh
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| v.飞快地移动，呼 | |
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strap
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| n.皮带，带子；v.用带扣住，束牢；用绷带包扎 | |
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sarcastic
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| adj.讥讽的，讽刺的，嘲弄的 | |
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phoenix
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| n.凤凰，长生(不死)鸟；引申为重生 | |
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dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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journalism
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| n.新闻工作，报业 | |
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full-time
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| adj.满工作日的或工作周的，全时间的 | |
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withdrawn
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| vt.收回；使退出；vi.撤退，退出 | |
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collapsed
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| adj.倒塌的 | |
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carving
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| n.雕刻品，雕花 | |
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hopped
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| 跳上[下]( hop的过去式和过去分词 )； 单足蹦跳； 齐足（或双足）跳行； 摘葎草花 | |
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parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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activist
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| n.活动分子，积极分子 | |
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encyclopedia
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| n.百科全书 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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gashed
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| v.划伤，割破( gash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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enrolled
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| adj.入学登记了的v.[亦作enrol]( enroll的过去式和过去分词 )；登记，招收，使入伍（或入会、入学等），参加，成为成员；记入名册；卷起，包起 | |
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