[The following passages, from Admiral Fox's report, give his reasonsfor believing that Samana, or Atwood's Key, is the island where Columbusfirst touched land. The interest which attaches to this subject at themoment of the centennial, when many voyages will be made by personsfollowing Columbus, induces me to copy Admiral Fox's reasonings indetail. I believe his conclusion to be correct.]
This method of applying Columbus's words in detail to refute each ofthe alleged1 tracks, and the study that I gave to the subject in the winter of1878-79 in the Bahamas, which has been familiar cruising ground to me,has resulted in the selection of Samana or Atwood's Key for the firstlanding place.
It is a little island 8.8 miles east and west; 1.6 extreme breadth, andaveraging 1.2 north and south. It has 8.6 square miles. The east end is inlatitude 23 degrees 5' N.; longitude2 73 degrees 37' west of Greenwich. Thereef on which it lies is 15 by 2 1/2 miles.
On the southeast this reef stretches half a mile from the land, on theeast four miles, on the west two, along the north shore one-quarter to one-half mile, and on the southwest scarcely one-quarter. Turk is smaller thanSamana, and Cat very much larger.
The selection of two so unlike in size show that dimension has notbeen considered essential in choosing an island for the first landfall.[*]
[*] I am indebted to T. J. McLain, Esq., United States consul3 at Nassau,for the following information given to him by the captains of this port,who visit Samana or Atwood's Key. The sub-sketch on this chart issubstantially correct: Good water is only obtained by sinking wells. Thetwo keys to the east are covered with guano; white boobies hold the largerone, and black boobies the other; neither intermingles.
The island is now uninhabited, but arrow heads and stone hatchets4 aresometimes found; and in places there are piles of stones supposed to havebeen made by the aborigines. Most of the growth is scrubby, with a fewscattered trees.
The Nassau vessels5 enter an opening through the reef on the south sideof the island and find a very comfortable little harbor with from two to twoand a half fathoms6 of water. From here they send their boats on shore to"strip" guano, and cut satin, dye woods and bark.
When Columbus discovered Guanahani, the journal called it a "littleisland." After landing he speaks of it as "bien grande," "very large," whichsome translate, tolerably, or pretty large. November 20, 1492 (Navarette,first edition, p. 61), the journal refers to Isabella, a larger island thanGuanahani, as "little island," and the fifth of January following (p. 125)San Salvador is again called "little island."The Bahamas have an area of about 37,000 square miles, six per centof which may be land, enumerated7 as 36 islands, 687 keys, and 2,414rocks. The submarine bank upon which these rest underlies8 Florida also.
But this peninsula is wave-formed upon living corals, whose growth andgradual stretch toward the south has been made known by Agassiz.
I had an unsuccessful search for a similar story of the Bahamas, tolearn whether there were any probable changes within so recent a periodas four hundred years.
The common mind can see that all the rock there is coral, none ofwhich is in position. The surface, the caves, the chinks, and the numerouspot-holes are compact limestone9, often quite crystalline, while beneath it isoolitic, either friable10 or hard enough to be used for buildings. The hills aresand-blown, not upheaved. On a majority of the maps of the sixteenthcentury there were islands on Mouchoir, and on Silver Banks, where noware rocks "awash;" and the Dutch and the Severn Shoals, which lay to theeast, have disappeared.
It is difficult to resist the impression that the shoal banks, and the reefsof the Bahamas, were formerly11 covered with land; and that for ageological age waste has been going on, and, perhaps, subsidence. Thecoral polyp seems to be doing only desultory12 work, and that mostly on thenortheast or Atlantic side of the islands; everywhere else it has abandonedthe field to the erosive action of the waves.
Columbus said that Guanahani had abundance of water and a verylarge lagoon13 in the middle of it. He used the word laguna--lagoon, not lago--lake. His arrival in the Bahamas was at the height of the rainy season.
Governor Rawson's Report on the Bahamas, 1864, page 92, Appendix 4,gives the annual rainfall at Nassau for ten years, 1855--'64, as sixty-fourinches. From May 1, to November 1 is the wet season, during which 44.7inches fall; the other six months 19.3 only. The most is in October, 8.5inches.
Andros, the largest island, 1,600 square miles, is the only one that hasa stream of water. The subdivision of the land into so many islands andkeys, the absence of mountains, the showery characteristic of the rainfall,the porosity14 of the rock, and the great heat reflected from the white coral,are the chief causes for the want of running water. During the rainy seasonthe "abundance of water" collects in the low places, making ponds andlagoons, that afterward16 are soaked up by the rock and evaporated by thesun.
Turk and Watling have lagoons15 of a more permanent condition,because they are maintained from the ocean by permeation17. The lagoonwhich Columbus found at Guanahani had certainly undrinkable water, orhe would have gotten some for his vessels, instead of putting it off until hereached the third island.
There is nothing in the journal to indicate that the lagoon at Guanahaniwas aught but the flooding of the low grounds by excessive rains; andeven if it was one communicating with the ocean, its absence now may bereferred to the effect of those agencies which are working incessantly18 toreshape the soft structure of the Bahamas.
Samana has a range of hills on the southwest side about one hundredfeet high, and on the northeast another, lower. Between them, and alsoalong the north shore, the land is low, and during the season of rains thereis a row of ponds parallel to the shore. On the south side a conspicuouswhite bluff19 looks to the southward and eastward20.
The two keys, lying respectively half a mile and three miles east of theisland, and possibly the outer breaker, which is four miles, all might havebeen connected with each other, and with the island, four hundred yearsago. In that event the most convenient place for Columbus to anchor in thestrong northeast trade-wind, was where I have put an anchor on the subsketch of Samana.
[In a subsequent passage Admiral Fox says:--]
There is a common belief that the first landing place is settled by oneor another of the authors cited here. Nevertheless, I trust to have shown,paragraph by paragraph, wherein their several tracks are contrary to thejournal, inconsistent with the true cartography of the neighborhood, and tothe discredit21, measurably, both of Columbus and of Las Casas. Theobscurity and the carelessness which appear in part of the diary throughthe Bahamas offer no obstacle to this demonstration22, provided that they donot extend to the "log," or nautical23 part.
Columbus went to sea when he was fourteen years of age, and servedthere almost continuously for twenty-three years. The strain of a sea-faringlife, from so tender an age, is not conducive24 to literary exactness. Still, forthe very reason of this sea experience, the "log" should be correct.
This is composed of the courses steered25, distances sailed over,bearings of islands from one another, trend of shores, etc. The recording26 ofthese is the daily business of seamen27, and here the entries were byColumbus himself, chiefly to enable him, on his return to Spain, toconstruct that nautical map, which is promised in the prologue28 of the firstvoyage.
In crossing the Atlantic the Admiral understated to the crew each day'srun, so that they should not know how far they had gone into an unknownocean. Las Casas was aware of this counterfeit29 "log," but his abridgment30 isfrom that one which Columbus kept for his own use.
If the complicated courses and distances in this were originally wrong,or if the copy of them is false, it is obvious that they cannot be "plotted "upon a correct chart. Conversely, if they ARE made to conform to asuccession of islands among which he is known to have sailed, it isevident that this is a genuine transcript31 of the authentic32 "log" of Columbus,and, reciprocally, that we have the true track, the beginning of which is theeventful landfall of October 12, 1492.
The student or critical reader, and the seaman33, will have to determinewhether the writer has established this conformity34. The public, probably,desires to have the question settled, but it will hardly take any interest in a discussion that has no practical bearing, and which, for its elucidation,leans so much upon the jargon35 or the sea.
It is not flattering to the English or Spanish speaking peoples that thefour hundredth anniversary of this great event draws nigh, and is likely tocatch us still floundering, touching36 the first landing place.
1 alleged | |
a.被指控的,嫌疑的 | |
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2 longitude | |
n.经线,经度 | |
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3 consul | |
n.领事;执政官 | |
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4 hatchets | |
n.短柄小斧( hatchet的名词复数 );恶毒攻击;诽谤;休战 | |
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5 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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6 fathoms | |
英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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7 enumerated | |
v.列举,枚举,数( enumerate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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8 underlies | |
v.位于或存在于(某物)之下( underlie的第三人称单数 );构成…的基础(或起因),引起 | |
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9 limestone | |
n.石灰石 | |
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10 friable | |
adj.易碎的 | |
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11 formerly | |
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12 desultory | |
adj.散漫的,无方法的 | |
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13 lagoon | |
n.泻湖,咸水湖 | |
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14 porosity | |
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15 lagoons | |
n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 );潟湖;(大湖或江河附近的)小而浅的淡水湖;温泉形成的池塘 | |
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16 afterward | |
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17 permeation | |
渗入,透过 | |
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18 incessantly | |
ad.不停地 | |
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19 bluff | |
v.虚张声势,用假象骗人;n.虚张声势,欺骗 | |
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20 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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21 discredit | |
vt.使不可置信;n.丧失信义;不信,怀疑 | |
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22 demonstration | |
n.表明,示范,论证,示威 | |
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23 nautical | |
adj.海上的,航海的,船员的 | |
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24 conducive | |
adj.有益的,有助的 | |
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25 steered | |
v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 );操纵;控制;引导 | |
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26 recording | |
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27 seamen | |
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28 prologue | |
n.开场白,序言;开端,序幕 | |
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29 counterfeit | |
vt.伪造,仿造;adj.伪造的,假冒的 | |
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30 abridgment | |
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31 transcript | |
n.抄本,誊本,副本,肄业证书 | |
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32 authentic | |
a.真的,真正的;可靠的,可信的,有根据的 | |
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33 seaman | |
n.海员,水手,水兵 | |
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34 conformity | |
n.一致,遵从,顺从 | |
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35 jargon | |
n.术语,行话 | |
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36 touching | |
adj.动人的,使人感伤的 | |
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