There remains1 to-day but a very imperceptible vestige2 of the Place de Grève, such as it existed then; it consists in the charming little turret3, which occupies the angle north of the Place, and which, already enshrouded in the ignoble4 plaster which fills with paste the delicate lines of its sculpture, would soon have disappeared, perhaps submerged by that flood of new houses which so rapidly devours5 all the ancient fa?ades of Paris.
The persons who, like ourselves, never cross the Place de Grève without casting a glance of pity and sympathy on that poor turret strangled between two hovels of the time of Louis XV., can easily reconstruct in their minds the aggregate6 of edifices7 to which it belonged, and find again entire in it the ancient Gothic place of the fifteenth century.
It was then, as it is to-day, an irregular trapezoid, bordered on one side by the quay8, and on the other three by a series of lofty, narrow, and gloomy houses. By day, one could admire the variety of its edifices, all sculptured in stone or wood, and already presenting complete specimens9 of the different domestic architectures of the Middle Ages, running back from the fifteenth to the eleventh century, from the casement10 which had begun to dethrone the arch, to the Roman semicircle, which had been supplanted11 by the ogive, and which still occupies, below it, the first story of that ancient house de la Tour Roland, at the corner of the Place upon the Seine, on the side of the street with the Tannerie. At night, one could distinguish nothing of all that mass of buildings, except the black indentation of the roofs, unrolling their chain of acute angles round the place; for one of the radical12 differences between the cities of that time, and the cities of the present day, lay in the fa?ades which looked upon the places and streets, and which were then gables. For the last two centuries the houses have been turned round.
In the centre of the eastern side of the Place, rose a heavy and hybrid13 construction, formed of three buildings placed in juxtaposition14. It was called by three names which explain its history, its destination, and its architecture: "The House of the Dauphin," because Charles V., when Dauphin, had inhabited it; "The Marchandise," because it had served as town hall; and "The Pillared House" (~domus ad piloria~), because of a series of large pillars which sustained the three stories. The city found there all that is required for a city like Paris; a chapel15 in which to pray to God; a ~plaidoyer~, or pleading room, in which to hold hearings, and to repel16, at need, the King's people; and under the roof, an ~arsenac~ full of artillery17. For the bourgeois18 of Paris were aware that it is not sufficient to pray in every conjuncture, and to plead for the franchises19 of the city, and they had always in reserve, in the garret of the town hall, a few good rusty20 arquebuses. The Grève had then that sinister21 aspect which it preserves to-day from the execrable ideas which it awakens22, and from the sombre town hall of Dominique Bocador, which has replaced the Pillared House. It must be admitted that a permanent gibbet and a pillory23, "a justice and a ladder," as they were called in that day, erected24 side by side in the centre of the pavement, contributed not a little to cause eyes to be turned away from that fatal place, where so many beings full of life and health have agonized25; where, fifty years later, that fever of Saint Vallier was destined26 to have its birth, that terror of the scaffold, the most monstrous27 of all maladies because it comes not from God, but from man.
It is a consoling idea (let us remark in passing), to think that the death penalty, which three hundred years ago still encumbered28 with its iron wheels, its stone gibbets, and all its paraphernalia29 of torture, permanent and riveted30 to the pavement, the Grève, the Halles, the Place Dauphine, the Cross du Trahoir, the Marché aux Pourceaux, that hideous31 Montfau?on, the barrier des Sergents, the Place aux Chats, the Porte Saint-Denis, Champeaux, the Porte Baudets, the Porte Saint Jacques, without reckoning the innumerable ladders of the provosts, the bishop32 of the chapters, of the abbots, of the priors, who had the decree of life and death,--without reckoning the judicial33 drownings in the river Seine; it is consoling to-day, after having lost successively all the pieces of its armor, its luxury of torment34, its penalty of imagination and fancy, its torture for which it reconstructed every five years a leather bed at the Grand Chatelet, that ancient suzerain of feudal35 society almost expunged36 from our laws and our cities, hunted from code to code, chased from place to place, has no longer, in our immense Paris, any more than a dishonored corner of the Grève,--than a miserable37 guillotine, furtive38, uneasy, shameful39, which seems always afraid of being caught in the act, so quickly does it disappear after having dealt its blow.
当时的格雷沃广场,现在已经只剩下模糊的痕迹。占据广场北头一个角落的那座可爱的小塔楼,它的生动的浮雕已经被难看的粉刷盖住,淹没在那些迅速吞没巴黎所有古老建筑物的新式房屋之中,也许不久就会完全消灭了。
从格雷沃广场走过的人们,和我们自己一样,都不会不朝这座塔楼投去怜悯和同情的眼光,它夹在两座路易十五时期的破屋中间。人们可以很容易在心里描绘出附有这个小塔楼的那座主体建筑的样子,并通过它来恢复这十五世纪古老的哥特式广场的全貌。
格雷沃广场在当时也象现在一样是个梯形,一边是码头,其余三边是一排排又高又窄的黑洞洞的房屋。在白天,人们可以欣赏这些形形色色的建筑物,它们到处都有石刻或木刻,已经表现出中世纪(从十五世纪上溯到十一世纪)各种建筑形式的完整雏形,从那些开始取代尖拱的交叉尖拱一直到那已经被尖拱替代了的罗曼式半圆拱,这种圆拱式建筑在尖拱下面却仍占据着这座古老的罗兰塔建筑的第一层。这座塔构成广场的一角,位于制革街这一边,朝着塞纳河。到晚上,就只看得出这堆建筑的一排排尖顶,那些参差不齐的黑色轮廓展现在广场的周围。因为那时候的城市和现代城市根本不同,现代建筑物都是正面朝向街道和广场的,那时朝向广场和街道的却是一些山墙。两个世纪以前,那些房屋就已经翻修过了。
在广场东边的正中,矗立着一座分为并排三套的笨重错杂的建筑,它有三个名字可以说明它的历史、它修造的目的和它的建筑方式。因为查理五世接位前在那里住过,它名叫太子宫;因为它曾经是总督府,所以叫百货商场;又由于支撑它那三层楼的一排大柱子,它又叫柱子房。在那里可以找到巴黎这样一座好城市所需要的一切:一座用来祷告上帝的小礼拜堂,一个用来谒见和在必要时猛烈还击国王近卫队的厅堂,顶楼上还有一个兵器室。因为巴黎的市民都知道,在任何一个非常时期,为旧城区辩护或恳求特权都是不够的,所以他们经常在总督府的一座顶楼上藏着几支生锈的好火绳枪。
格雷沃广场从那时起就象今天这样一直保持着这副惨淡景象,那是由于它本身以及修建在柱子房旧址上的多米尼格·波卡多尔的阴沉沉的总督府所引起的。在那里有一座永久性的刑台和绞刑架,或者照当时人们的说法:一个法官和一架梯子。这座刑台和绞刑架紧挨着矗立在路当中,使那要命的地方特别触目惊心。曾经有多少健康而富于生命力的人在那个地方断送了性命,五十年以后那地方发生过一种圣瓦耶热病,那是担心被绞死的病,是一切病症中最可怕的一种,因为它不是出于天意,而是来自人为。
我们顺便说说,想到死刑在三百年前还把它那些铁轮、石头绞架和一切常设的器械深深嵌进路面,塞满了格雷沃广场、菜市场、王妃广场、德·特拉瓦尔十字架、猪市、骇人听闻的隼山、警卫卡、猫场、圣德尼门、草场、波代门和圣雅克门,这还没算上总督、主教、教务会、神甫和执掌生杀大权的修道院长们的无数“梯子”,还没算上那种把人扔到塞纳河去淹死的刑罚;想到封建社会这个衰老的统治者,在不断失掉它的各种甲胄,失掉它那五花八门的酷刑和各种异想天开的刑罚,失掉每五年要为大沙特雷法庭定制一张作拷问用的皮床之后,如今几乎已消失在我们的法律和我们的城市之外了——想到这种情况,实在令人觉得万分欣慰。在我们庞大的巴黎,如今只剩下格雷沃广场一个不光彩的角落,只剩下一个阴惨的、见不得人的、不安和可耻的绞刑架,它仿佛老在害怕被人当做现行犯,每次行刑完毕就迅速消失不见了!
1 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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2 vestige | |
n.痕迹,遗迹,残余 | |
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3 turret | |
n.塔楼,角塔 | |
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4 ignoble | |
adj.不光彩的,卑鄙的;可耻的 | |
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5 devours | |
吞没( devour的第三人称单数 ); 耗尽; 津津有味地看; 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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6 aggregate | |
adj.总计的,集合的;n.总数;v.合计;集合 | |
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7 edifices | |
n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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8 quay | |
n.码头,靠岸处 | |
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9 specimens | |
n.样品( specimen的名词复数 );范例;(化验的)抽样;某种类型的人 | |
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10 casement | |
n.竖铰链窗;窗扉 | |
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11 supplanted | |
把…排挤掉,取代( supplant的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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12 radical | |
n.激进份子,原子团,根号;adj.根本的,激进的,彻底的 | |
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13 hybrid | |
n.(动,植)杂种,混合物 | |
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14 juxtaposition | |
n.毗邻,并置,并列 | |
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15 chapel | |
n.小教堂,殡仪馆 | |
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16 repel | |
v.击退,抵制,拒绝,排斥 | |
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17 artillery | |
n.(军)火炮,大炮;炮兵(部队) | |
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18 bourgeois | |
adj./n.追求物质享受的(人);中产阶级分子 | |
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19 franchises | |
n.(尤指选举议员的)选举权( franchise的名词复数 );参政权;获特许权的商业机构(或服务);(公司授予的)特许经销权v.给…以特许权,出售特许权( franchise的第三人称单数 ) | |
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20 rusty | |
adj.生锈的;锈色的;荒废了的 | |
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21 sinister | |
adj.不吉利的,凶恶的,左边的 | |
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22 awakens | |
v.(使)醒( awaken的第三人称单数 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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23 pillory | |
n.嘲弄;v.使受公众嘲笑;将…示众 | |
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24 ERECTED | |
adj. 直立的,竖立的,笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立,建立 | |
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25 agonized | |
v.使(极度)痛苦,折磨( agonize的过去式和过去分词 );苦斗;苦苦思索;感到极度痛苦 | |
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26 destined | |
adj.命中注定的;(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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27 monstrous | |
adj.巨大的;恐怖的;可耻的,丢脸的 | |
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28 encumbered | |
v.妨碍,阻碍,拖累( encumber的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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29 paraphernalia | |
n.装备;随身用品 | |
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30 riveted | |
铆接( rivet的过去式和过去分词 ); 把…固定住; 吸引; 引起某人的注意 | |
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31 hideous | |
adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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32 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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33 judicial | |
adj.司法的,法庭的,审判的,明断的,公正的 | |
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34 torment | |
n.折磨;令人痛苦的东西(人);vt.折磨;纠缠 | |
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35 feudal | |
adj.封建的,封地的,领地的 | |
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36 expunged | |
v.擦掉( expunge的过去式和过去分词 );除去;删去;消除 | |
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37 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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38 furtive | |
adj.鬼鬼崇崇的,偷偷摸摸的 | |
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39 shameful | |
adj.可耻的,不道德的 | |
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