It was early in 1665 that the first proposal for lighting9 this dangerous reef, full in the course of ships passing up or down Channel, was made; Sir John Coryton and one Henry Brouncker[282] petitioning the Duke of York, the then Lord High Admiral, for permission to build a number of lighthouses, and, incidentally, one on the Eddystone. This proposal, referred to the Trinity House, was eventually reduced to a scheme for the Eddystone only, and the projectors10, who were not proposing to benefit mankind without a good profit for themselves, were to be recouped their outlay11 by a charge of 2d. a ton on foreign shipping13 entering West Country ports: English vessels14 to be free of charge.
Nothing more was ever heard of this early project, but in 1692 one Walter Whitfield made a bid for a patent from the Trinity House, by which he was to be authorised, at his own risk, to build a lighthouse, to reap the entire profits for a term of three years, and one-half for the next fifty years: the undertaking15 then to revert16 to the Trinity House. A patent was granted on these terms in 1694, but no works were initiated17, and even when a revised agreement was made in 1696, it was not Whitfield, but Winstanley, who designed and built the first Eddystone Lighthouse. Under this compact the projector’s term of full profits was extended from three to five years.
Henry Winstanley was a singular genius: very much of an artist, something, but not much, of an engineer, and a wholly sanguine18 person. He commenced operations on the rock on July 14th, 1696, his workmen being occupied all that summer in drilling holes and fixing the iron stanchions that were to support his building. Sometimes[283] he and his men slept on the rock itself, on other occasions they were rowed at nightfall to the guardship Terrible, which, lent by the Admiralty,[284] stood off and on all day. In June 1697, the commander of this ship, one Commissioner19 St. Loe, thought well to go off upon a wholly unauthorised cruise for nearly a week, and in the meanwhile a French privateer pounced20 upon Winstanley and his men, took Winstanley prisoner and, taking away the last stitch of the workmen’s clothing, turned them adrift in their boat. To the credit of the French government, Winstanley was speedily released, and the too zealous21 captain of the privateer seems to have been reprimanded for excess of zeal22; while St. Loe was peremptorily23 asked by the Admiralty for an explanation of his conduct. In the midsummer of 1698 Winstanley’s lighthouse was completed and on November 14th, shed the first warning gleam across the waters. It was a remarkable24 structure. Rising to a height of about eighty feet to its weather-vane, it was fantastic in outline, beautiful in colour and gilding25, and adorned26 with devices of the sun in splendour and the imposing27 inscriptions28, “Pax in terra. Post tenebras lux. Glory be to God.” It was rather more picturesque29 than even a Chinese pagoda30, and offered so many angles of resistance to the wind that we can only marvel31 how the elements in those four years allowed him to complete it, and then suffered it to remain another three years. If picturesque beauty were the sole consideration in lighthouse-building this mingled32 stone and timber tower with its strange suggestions of Wren’s City of London church steeples and the “Queen Anne”[285] architecture of Bedford Park, was surely the finest lighthouse ever built. It proclaims itself in every circumstance the work of an artist, and was to its smallest detail unpractical. Winstanley even provided a highly picturesque means of defence against an enemy: a contrivance in an upper gallery that would drop heavy stones upon his boats; and he designed an elaborate room, from which, in the picture, you see him fishing, and apparently33 trying to hook one of the boat’s crew pushing off from the rock.
Many of these ornate features were found to be hazardous34; the tower itself was not sufficiently35 lofty, and alterations36 were made in 1699, by which its height was increased to 120 feet. Remodelled37, it was, in Winstanley’s own opinion, as safe as any castle ashore38, and he expressed himself as only too eager to be in his lighthouse when the worst storm ever known was blowing. On November 26th, 1703, he had his wish. He put off from the Barbican at Plymouth for the Eddystone on the afternoon of that day, when all the signs pointed39 to an unprecedented40 tempest. That night was the night of the famous storm that levelled uncounted trees, unroofed and wrecked41 many mansions42, and sunk fleets of shipping. Henry Winstanley was born at Littlebury, near Saffron Walden, but he is not buried there, for on that night he and his lighthouse and the lighthouse-keepers perished together. When morning dawned the rock was bare, except for one surviving link of iron chain.[286] Winstanley’s project had lost considerably43 more than £3,000, and his widow was reduced to seeking a pension from the Government; but a singular fascination44 seems to have impelled45 private persons to risk their all in a work that should have been the sole concern of the Trinity House. A certain John Lovett, merchant, of London, was the next to enter this, as a commercial project, and the designer of his lighthouse was Rudyerd, a Ludgate Hill silk mercer. He began work in 1706, and by 1709 had completed a wooden tower, which lasted nearly fifty years, and was then destroyed by fire, December 2nd, 1755. There were three keepers. Their efforts at subduing46 the flames were useless, the molten lead from the roof driving them into the crannies of the rock; where they went through such terrors of exposure to the cold and the waves on the one hand, and the cascades47 of melted lead on the other that one, raving48 mad, plunged49 to death in the sea. Two actually survived the occasion, but one of these was thought a lunatic by the rescuing party. He declared that while he stood looking up at the flames, some molten lead had run down his throat. In the course of twelve days he died, and his incredible story was proved by nearly eight ounces of lead being found in his stomach. Incidentally, Lovett was ruined.
[287]
The third lighthouse was begun by the mortgagees of Lovett’s estate, in June 1757. This was the famous stone structure designed and built by Smeaton. Although the building was[289] hindered by Smeaton’s men being every now and again seized by the Press Gang, it was completed in October 1759, and would probably still be standing50 except for the curious fact that the rock it stood upon was showing signs of weakness. In 1807 the building lease lapsed51 and the lighthouse became the property of the Trinity House, when the tallow candles, which, up to that time had been the sole illuminant, were exchanged for oil. A newer building, the existing lighthouse, was decided52 upon in 1877, and built on an adjoining reef. Begun in 1879, it was completed in 1882. It is circular, constructed of Cornish granite53, and rises to a height of 130 feet.
The streets of Plymouth and its sister towns are a good deal more crowded than even those of London. It is among the busiest of places, and with its vast naval54 dockyards at Devonport and Keyham, its military interests, and its great commercial importance, is in a good many districts grim and unlovely. The centre of Plymouth—the municipal centre—is, however, strikingly beautiful, and is the outcome of a movement dating from about 1867, having for its object the creation of a group of municipal buildings worthy55 of a place with so long and stirring a history. What the old Guildhall was like may still be seen, for it survives in the dirty, dark and inconvenient56 building thought good enough for the Public Library, though not for the town Councillors. It was a worthy and brilliant idea to build a new[290] group of Guildhall and offices for the governance of the town; a majestic57 group that should harmonise with the ancient Gothic church of St. Andrew, and form with it three sides of a spacious58 square. The opening of the Guildhall took place in 1874, when the then Prince of Wales performed the ceremony. The Great Hall, used for concerts and public functions, is a noble building, with fine hammerbeam roof, and an excellent range of beautiful stained-glass windows, recounting in spirited and well-coloured designs the Departure from Plymouth for France of the Black Prince, in 1355; the Breton raid upon the town in 1404; the enquiry at Plympton Priory as to the incorporation59 of Plymouth, 1440; the Landing of Katharine of Aragon, 1501; Captain Fleming announcing the Armada in sight, 1588; Drake inaugurating the Water Supply, 1592; the Arrest of Raleigh, 1618; Sailing of the Mayflower, 1620; Final Repulse60 of the Royalists from the town, 1643; Proclamation of William of Orange as King of England 1688; Cookworthy and the Plymouth Club House, 1772; and Napoleon on the Bellerophon at Plymouth, 1815.
The series ends with a window representing the opening of the Guildhall itself, August 15th, 1874, by the Prince of Wales, who is shown in stained-glass, taking part in the ceremony attired61 in conventional silk hat, frock coat, and lavender-coloured trousers. It is a weird62 and uncanny use for stained-glass, and the thing is not less grotesque63 because it thus perpetuates64 what now seems the[293] ridiculous fashion in hats, coats, and trousers obtaining in 1874. The Prince is shown holding a wand, symbol of his then honorary office of High Steward65 of the borough66 of Plymouth; within the other hand the key used for the opening. In the background of this highly remarkable work of art, which would certainly astonish the mediæval craftsmen67, could they return and see it, are represented those who strutted68 their little parts on the local stage in that day. They are duly pictured in their robes as Town Councillors, and are happier in that fact than the Prince is in his everyday gear. Prominent among them you see a face like a Dutch cheese with whiskers; probably intended for the mayor.
St. Andrew’s Church is a striking feature in this group of municipal buildings. It “suggested” the group: it was the keynote whence this architectural symphony was developed, and in the continual modernising of Plymouth, it remains69 one of the very few old, and characteristic Devonian buildings in the Three Towns. The tower, built in 1460, is the latest part of the church.
An odd punning epitaph within is worthy a note. It is to the memory of one “Mrs.[294] Mary Sparke,” whose light was quenched70 in 1665:—
“Life’s but a Sparke, a weake uncertaine breath,
Such was my Name, my frame, my fate, yet I,
Am still a living Sparke, though thus I dye,
And shine in Heaven’s orbe, a Star most bright,
Though Death on Earth so soone Eclipst my light.”
Plymouth’s other old church—although not so very old—has a romantic story. It is one of the four churches in England dedicated72 to “King Charles the Martyr73.” Begun in the reign12 of Charles the First, it was abandoned during the troubles that led to the execution of the king, and was completed and dedicated in 1664.
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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isolation
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| n.隔离，孤立，分解，分离 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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hazy
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| adj.有薄雾的，朦胧的；不肯定的，模糊的 | |
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puny
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| adj.微不足道的，弱小的 | |
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shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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temerity
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| n.鲁莽，冒失 | |
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masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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projectors
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| 电影放映机，幻灯机( projector的名词复数 ) | |
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outlay
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| n.费用，经费，支出；v.花费 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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revert
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| v.恢复，复归，回到 | |
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initiated
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| n. 创始人 adj. 新加入的 vt. 开始，创始，启蒙，介绍加入 | |
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sanguine
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| adj.充满希望的，乐观的，血红色的 | |
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commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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pounced
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| v.突然袭击( pounce的过去式和过去分词 )；猛扑；一眼看出；抓住机会（进行抨击） | |
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zealous
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| adj.狂热的，热心的 | |
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zeal
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| n.热心，热情，热忱 | |
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peremptorily
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| adv.紧急地，不容分说地，专横地 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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inscriptions
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| （作者）题词( inscription的名词复数 )； 献词； 碑文； 证劵持有人的登记 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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pagoda
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| n.宝塔（尤指印度和远东的多层宝塔），（印度教或佛教的）塔式庙宇 | |
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marvel
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| vi.(at)惊叹vt.感到惊异；n.令人惊异的事 | |
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mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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hazardous
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| adj.(有)危险的，冒险的；碰运气的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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alterations
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| n.改动( alteration的名词复数 )；更改；变化；改变 | |
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remodelled
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| v.改变…的结构[形状]( remodel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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unprecedented
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| adj.无前例的，新奇的 | |
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wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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mansions
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| n.宅第，公馆，大厦( mansion的名词复数 ) | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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fascination
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| n.令人着迷的事物，魅力，迷恋 | |
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impelled
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| v.推动、推进或敦促某人做某事( impel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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46
subduing
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| 征服( subdue的现在分词 )； 克制； 制服； 色变暗 | |
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47
cascades
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| 倾泻( cascade的名词复数 )； 小瀑布（尤指一连串瀑布中的一支）； 瀑布状物； 倾泻（或涌出）的东西 | |
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48
raving
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| adj.说胡话的；疯狂的，怒吼的；非常漂亮的；令人醉心[痴心]的v.胡言乱语(rave的现在分词)n.胡话；疯话adv.胡言乱语地；疯狂地 | |
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49
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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50
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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51
lapsed
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| adj.流失的，堕落的v.退步( lapse的过去式和过去分词 )；陷入；倒退；丧失 | |
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52
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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incorporation
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| n.设立，合并，法人组织 | |
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repulse
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| n.击退，拒绝；vt.逐退，击退，拒绝 | |
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attired
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| adj.穿着整齐的v.使穿上衣服，使穿上盛装( attire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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grotesque
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| adj.怪诞的，丑陋的；n.怪诞的图案，怪人（物） | |
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perpetuates
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| n.使永存，使人记住不忘( perpetuate的名词复数 )；使永久化，使持久化，使持续 | |
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steward
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| n.乘务员，服务员；看管人；膳食管理员 | |
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borough
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| n.享有自治权的市镇；(英)自治市镇 | |
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craftsmen
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| n. 技工 | |
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strutted
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| 趾高气扬地走，高视阔步( strut的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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quenched
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| 解（渴）( quench的过去式和过去分词 )； 终止（某事物）； （用水）扑灭（火焰等）； 将（热物体）放入水中急速冷却 | |
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kindled
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| （使某物）燃烧，着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 )； 激起（感情等）； 发亮，放光 | |
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dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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martyr
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| n.烈士，殉难者；vt.杀害，折磨，牺牲 | |
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