I, who am a pagan child,
Who know how dying Plato smiled,
And how Confucius lessoned kings,
And of the Buddha's wanderings,
Find God in very usual things.
Toller Porcorum (Toller of the Swine) has a railway station on the Bridport branch line and is two miles from Maiden1 Newton. The name is explanatory, and great herds2 of swine were once bred here. The affix3 serves to distinguish this Toller from its next neighbour, Toller Fratrum (Toller of the Brethren, i.e. monks5), which is one mile from Maiden Newton station. The mansion6 of Sir Thomas Fulford still stands and is a fine instance of early seventeenth-century domestic architecture. The very first things I noticed about this house were the tall, narrow, thick windows—windows that any man might look upon with covetous7 eyes. Such tall stone-mullioned windows are an enchantment8, and, as Hilaire Belloc says, it is the duty of every man to keep up the high worship of noble windows till he comes down to the windowless grave. A building with a thatched roof near the house is a refectory, and appropriately cut in stone on the wall will be noticed a monk4 eating bread.
At Wynford Eagle, two miles south, the church still preserves a curious tympanum of a Norman door. It shows two ferocious9 and unspeakable-looking beasts, who are about to fight. They are said to be wyverns—which are heraldic monsters with two wings, two legs and tapering10 bodies. The most remarkable11 discovery ever made in the vicinity of Wynford Eagle was recorded by Aubrey in connection with the opening of a barrow at Ferndown. The diggers came upon "a place like an Oven, curiously12 clay'd round; and in the midst of it a fair Urn13 full of very firm bones, with a great quantity of black ashes under it. And what is most remarkable; one of the diggers putting his hand into the Oven when first open'd, pull'd it back hastily, not being able to endure the heat; and several others doing the like, affirmed it to be hot enough to bake bread.... Digging further they met with sixteen Urns14 more, but not in Ovens; and in the middle one with ears; they were all full of some bones and black ashes."
The house of the Sydenhams still stands at Wynford Eagle. On the highest point of the central gable a fierce-looking stone eagle arrests our attention, and under it is carved the date 1630.
Rampisham is three miles south of Evershot, and the churchyard contains an ancient stone cross, the decayed condition of which will test the patience and ingenuity15 of those who desire to satisfy themselves of the accuracy of Britton's description of the sculpture—namely, that it represents "the stoning of St Stephen, the Martyrdom of St Edmund, the Martyrdom of St Thomas à Becket, and two crowned figures sitting at a long table, to whom a man kneels on one knee."
The inn called the "Tiger's Head" is of great antiquity16; it has stooped and settled down with age, and, within, the low-ceiled rooms seem saturated17 with influence, and weighty with the wearing of men's lives.
Cross-in-Hand stands on the verge18 of the down, which breaks away precipitously to the vale where Yetminster lies. A bleached19 and desolate20 upland, it took its name from a stone pillar which stood there, a strange, rude monolith, from a stratum21 unknown in any local quarry22, on which was roughly carved a human hand. Differing accounts were given of its history and purport23. Some authorities stated that a devotional cross had once formed the complete erection thereon, of which the present relic24 was but the stump25; others that the stone as it stood was entire, and[Pg 233] that it had been fixed26 there to mark a boundary or place of meeting.
It was on this stone that Alec D'Urberville made Tess swear not to tempt27 him by her charms. "This was once a holy cross," said he. "Relics28 are not in my creed29, but I fear you at moments." It was with a sense of painful dread30 that Tess, after leaving this spot, learned from a rustic31 that the stone was not a holy cross. "Cross—no; 'twere not a cross! 'Tis a thing of ill-omen, miss. It was put up in wuld times by the relations of a malefactor32, who was tortured there by nailing his hands to a post and afterwards hung. The bones lie underneath33. They say he sold his soul to the devil, and that he walks at times."
Deep down below is the sequestered34 village of Batcombe. An uncanny story attaches itself to a battered35 old Gothic tomb in Batcombe churchyard. The tomb stands near the north wall of the church, and it is said to be the resting-place of one Conjuring36 Minterne, who Hardy37 in one of his novels tells us left directions, after having quarrelled with his vicar, that he was to be buried "neither in the church nor out of it." It is said that this eccentric injunction was complied with, but the tomb has since been moved. What deed Minterne had committed that prevented him from lying quietly in the usual grave like the other good folk of Batcombe who had departed this life no man can tell. All the rustics39 could tell me was they had heard he had sold himself to Old Nick, and that his request to be buried in such a unique manner was a ruse40 to prevent his master "the old 'un" from getting him when he died.
In bygone days the "conjurer" was an important character in the Dorset village, and he was generally of good reputation, and supposed to be gifted with supernatural power, which he exercised for good. By his incantations and ceremonies he cured anything from inflamed41 eyes to lung disease. A Wessex dealer42 in magic and spells is mentioned in Hardy's story, The Withered43 Arm. He lived in a valley in the remotest part of Egdon Heath:
"He did not profess44 his remedial practices openly, or care anything about their continuance, his direct interests being those of a dealer in furze, turf, 'sharp sand,' and other local products. Indeed, he affected45 not to believe largely in his own powers, and when warts46 that had been shown him for cure miraculously47 disappeared—which it must be owned they infallibly did—he would say lightly, 'Oh, I only drink a glass of grog upon 'em—perhaps it's all chance,' and immediately turn the subject."
But to return to Minterne. The present vicar of Batcombe church—Rev38. Joseph Pulliblank—thinks the fore-shortened stone of Minterne's tomb, which is square instead of the usual oblong, gives some support to the story of the "conjurer" being buried with his feet under the masonry48 of the church wall. The following paragraph is also from some notes kindly49 sent to me by the Rev. Joseph Pulliblank:—
"Batcombe Church, originally Saxon, has only two points which testify to the fact—(1) A Saxon font inside, (2) a small portion of Saxon masonry worked into the outside south wall.
"In modern times Batcombe was the seat of 'the Little Commonwealth50' settlement founded by the Earl of Sandwich and run on the lines of the 'George Junior Republic' in America—owing to financial and other difficulties it came to an end during the war."
In the church are wall tablets to the Minterne family: one to a John Minterne who died in 1716, as well as a John Minterne who was buried in 1592. There is a monument to Bridget Minterne in Yetminster church, who was the wife of John Minterne of Batcombe. The inscription52 runs:
"Here lyeth y body of Bridgett Minterne wife of John Minterne of Batcombe esq., second daughter of Sir John Brown of Frampton Kt. who died y 19th July Ano Domini 1649."
Which of the ancient possessors of Batcombe can claim the honour of being the famous Conjuring Minterne I was unable to discover. Little remains53 of his history. We only know that he was always kind, and knew how to ride well, for he once jumped his horse from the crest54 of the down into the village, knocking one of the pinnacles55 off the church tower on his way. He would not talk much about wizardry, but would rather sing songs. No doubt Minterne was a very lovable fellow!
In Rudyard Kipling's "Marklake Witches" (Rewards and Fairies) the Sussex "conjurer" is represented by Jerry Gamm the witchmaster, and he is one of the most striking examples in literature of the rustic astrologer and doctor. The following charm—a very excellent one, too—was Jerry Gamm's charm against a disease of an obstinate56 and deadly character:
"You know the names of the Twelve Apostles, dearie? You say them names, one by one, before your open window, rain or storm, wet or shine, five times a day fasting. But mind you, 'twixt every name you draw in your breath through your nose, right down to your pretty toes, as long and as deep as you can, and let it out slow through your pretty little mouth. There's virtue57 for your cough in those names spoke58 that[Pg 237] way. And I'll give you something you can see, moreover. Here's a stick of maple59 which is the warmest tree in the wood. It's cut one inch long for you every year," Jerry said. "That's sixteen inches. You set it in your window so that it holds up the sash, and thus you keep it, rain or shine, or wet or fine, day and night. I've said words over it which will have virtue on your complaints."
Bridport lies two miles inland from the sea and its unheard-of harbour of West Bay. We first hear of the town in the reign60 of Edward the Confessor, when it could boast a mint, a priory of monks and two hundred houses. In Saxon days it was probably a place of some importance, owing to the fact of it being the port to the River Brit, but its early history is without any distinctive61 mark or important event. When Charles II. arrived at Bridport in his hasty flight from Charmouth the town was full of soldiers, but the royal party went boldly to an inn (the George, now a shop, incorporating part of the old building opposite the Town Hall) and mixed with the company. Every stranger was mistrusted by the troops, however, and Charles and his suite62 quitted the town after a hasty meal. They retired63 by the main Dorchester road and took a lane leading to Broadwindsor and so escaped. Lee Lane, a[Pg 238] mile to the east of Bridport, is said to be the actual scene where the royal party retreated to security.
The first thing the pilgrim will notice when entering Bridport is the generous width of the streets, and it is a curious fact that the local industries have left their stamp on the town in this way. The town was always famed for its hempen65 manufactures, and it furnished most of the cordage for the royal fleet in the good old times of "wooden walls." It was for this reason the roads were made wider—to allow each house to have a "rope walk." At one time the town enjoyed almost a monopoly in the manufacture of cordage. Gallows66' ropes also were made here, hence the grim retort often heard in Wessex: "You'll live to be stabbed with a Bridport dagger67!"
George Barnet, "a gentleman-burgher of Port Bredy," in Hardy's Fellow Townsmen, was descended68 from the hemp64 and rope merchants of Bridport.
The church is fifteenth-century and contains a cross-legged effigy69 of a mail-clad knight70, probably one of the De Chideocks. The old building was restored in 1860, when two bays were added to the nave71. Thomas Hardy waxes bitterly jocular over this piece of restoration: "The church had had such a tremendous joke played upon it by[Pg 239] some facetious72 restorer or other as to be scarce recognisable by its dearest old friends."
West Bay and Bridport are scenes in Hardy's tale, Fellow Townsmen, where they are dealt with under the name of "Port Bredy," from the name of the little River Bredy, which here flows into the sea. The town mainly consists of one long highway, divided at West Street and East Street by the clock tower of the Town Hall, which forms the very hub of commercial liveliness, with the fine old inns and quaint73 shops about it. The Greyhound Hotel is a place very much favoured by travellers, and for old-fashioned fare and comfort there is no inn in England which could better it. Mr Trump74, the broad-shouldered landlord, is one of the old school, a man of genial75 humour and generous strength, and his popularity reaches well over the borders of Dorset. He is a great lover of horses, and I stood by his side as he surveyed a manifestation76 of Divine Energy in the form of a horse of spirit and tremendous power owned by a local farmer. "Walter" Trump took off his hat to the fine animal and turned to me, saying: "If there are no horses in heaven I don't want to go there."
South Street turns down to the quay77 near the Greyhound, and in the summer traps will be usually found at this corner to take one down to the sea.
The Literary and Scientific Institute, in East Street, opposite the Bull Hotel, contains a number of coins and some natural history exhibits, as well as a library.
The Conservative Club has been established in a fine old Tudor building in South Street, on the opposite side of which is another ancient house called Dungeness. At the back of a house on the south side of the East Bridge is a portion of the old Hospital of St John. The Bull has been modernised, but it is the Black Bull where George Barnet put up on his return to his native town, in Fellow Townsmen.
Between the Town Hall and the Greyhound is a passage known as Bucky Doo, which the Rev. R. Grosvenor Bartelot traces to "Bocardo," "originally a syllogism78 in logic79, which was here, as at Oxford80, applied81 to the prison, because, just as a Bocardo syllogism always ended in a final negative, so did a compulsory82 visit to the Bocardo lock-up generally mean a closer acquaintance with the disciplinary use of 'the Bridport dagger' and a final negative to the drama of life."
If the pilgrim wishes to make a pleasant excursion on foot to West Bay he must take a track that goes round the churchyard and follow the riverside footpath83 on the right bank of the stream. Thus we arrive at Bridport Quay and West Bay. The harbour never became of any importance owing to the microscopic84 shingle85 which has always obstructed86 and choked its mouth. Everywhere the pilgrim turns he sees hillocks of this waste sand which has prevented a willing port from serving its country. The fact that Bridport was not called upon to provide any ships either for the siege of Calais in 1347 or for the fleet to oppose the Spanish Armada may be accepted as proof that the burgesses of the town possessed87 no vessels88 large enough for fighting purposes. So the little harbour fell into indolence and sluggishness89, thus bearing out the truth of the old saying: "That which does not serve dies."
The place is picturesque90 in an odd and casual way, and a scattering91 of quaint old dwellings92 contrast with a row of new lodging-houses which are very showy (rory-tory the Dorset rustic would style them!) in spite of their affectation of the dandy-go-rusty tiles of antiquity. A little group of fishermen may always be seen loafing and smoking by the thatched Bridport Arms Hotel, and the only time these good fellows ever show any quickening to life is when some barque, taking unusual risks, allows itself to be towed and winched between the narrow pier-heads. At such times the spirit of ships and men departed seems to enter into them, and they shout and heave and sing randy-dandy deep-sea songs, and use much profanity.
The shingle is part of one of the remarkable features of the Dorset coast—the Chesil Beach or Chesil Bank, which runs as far as Portland. Chesil is Old English for pebble93, the old word being found in Chesilton in Dorset and Chislehurst in Kent. The pebbles94 gradually grow coarser as one progresses in a south-easterly direction, so that in olden days the smugglers, running their "tubs" ashore95, at venture, in the fog or during the night, knew the exact stretch of bank they had arrived on by taking a handful of shingle to examine. The attractions of West Bay are good bathing, good sea fishing and good boating, for the curious little harbour is a particularly pleasing haunt for amateur sailors.
There are many pleasant short walks in the neighbourhood of Bridport and West Bay. Eype is reached from Bridport by field paths passing through Allington and the Lovers' Grove96. A bridle-way takes one to Eype church, standing97 on the ridge51, whence it leads through the village down a deep hollow to the beach. Continuing over Thorncombe Beacon98, we reach Seatown, which is a seaside branch of Chideock. "Chiddick," as any Wessex man of the soil will pronounce the name, is a little less than a mile inland on the Lyme Regis road. The Anchor Inn at Seatown is an old place of entertainment I have not personally visited, but a man who knows his Dorset informs me that it is a place where the centuries mingle99; with black beams in the ceiling, oak settles, shining with long usage, and ironwork full of the rough simplicity100 of the Elizabethan forge. I shall call there next time I fare Dorset way, if only to stand in the great bay window which looks out to the sea. Such buildings remind one, not of decay but of immutableness. Perhaps even the summons of the dark Reaper101 would not sound quite so sharp in an ancient inn. There are less perfect places one might die in, and if I had my wish I would choose to pass away in an inn, where all my regrets would be arrested by the stamping of feet on the sanded floor beneath, and the ancient and untutored voices of farmhands and ploughmen singing some lively song.
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1
maiden
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| n.少女，处女；adj.未婚的，纯洁的，无经验的 | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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affix
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| n.附件，附录 vt.附贴，盖(章)，签署 | |
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monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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monks
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| n.修道士，僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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mansion
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| n.大厦，大楼；宅第 | |
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covetous
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| adj.贪婪的，贪心的 | |
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8
enchantment
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| n.迷惑，妖术，魅力 | |
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ferocious
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| adj.凶猛的，残暴的，极度的，十分强烈的 | |
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tapering
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| adj.尖端细的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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urn
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| n.（有座脚的）瓮；坟墓；骨灰瓮 | |
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urns
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| n.壶( urn的名词复数 )；瓮；缸；骨灰瓮 | |
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ingenuity
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| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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saturated
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| a.饱和的，充满的 | |
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verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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bleached
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| 漂白的，晒白的，颜色变浅的 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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stratum
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| n.地层，社会阶层 | |
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quarry
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| n.采石场；v.采石；费力地找 | |
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purport
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| n.意义，要旨，大要；v.意味著，做为...要旨，要领是... | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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stump
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| n.残株，烟蒂，讲演台；v.砍断，蹒跚而走 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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tempt
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| vt.引诱，勾引，吸引，引起…的兴趣 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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creed
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| n.信条；信念，纲领 | |
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dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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malefactor
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| n.罪犯 | |
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underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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sequestered
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| adj.扣押的；隐退的；幽静的；偏僻的v.使隔绝，使隔离( sequester的过去式和过去分词 )；扣押 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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conjuring
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| n.魔术 | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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rev
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| v.发动机旋转，加快速度 | |
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rustics
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| n.有农村或村民特色的( rustic的名词复数 )；粗野的；不雅的；用粗糙的木材或树枝制作的 | |
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ruse
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| n.诡计，计策；诡计 | |
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inflamed
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| adj.发炎的，红肿的v.（使）变红，发怒，过热( inflame的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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dealer
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| n.商人，贩子 | |
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43
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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44
profess
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| v.声称，冒称，以...为业，正式接受入教，表明信仰 | |
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45
affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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warts
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| n.疣( wart的名词复数 )；肉赘；树瘤；缺点 | |
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47
miraculously
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| ad.奇迹般地 | |
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48
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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49
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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50
commonwealth
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| n.共和国，联邦，共同体 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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52
inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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53
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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54
crest
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| n.顶点；饰章；羽冠；vt.达到顶点；vi.形成浪尖 | |
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55
pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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56
obstinate
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| adj.顽固的，倔强的，不易屈服的，较难治愈的 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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58
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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maple
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| n.槭树，枫树，槭木 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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distinctive
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| adj.特别的，有特色的，与众不同的 | |
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suite
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| n.一套(家具)；套房；随从人员 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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hempen
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| adj. 大麻制的, 大麻的 | |
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gallows
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| n.绞刑架，绞台 | |
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dagger
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| n.匕首，短剑，剑号 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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effigy
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| n.肖像 | |
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knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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facetious
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| adj.轻浮的，好开玩笑的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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trump
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| n.王牌，法宝；v.打出王牌，吹喇叭 | |
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genial
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| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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manifestation
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| n.表现形式；表明；现象 | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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syllogism
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| n.演绎法，三段论法 | |
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logic
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| n.逻辑(学)；逻辑性 | |
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Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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compulsory
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| n.强制的，必修的；规定的，义务的 | |
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footpath
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| n.小路，人行道 | |
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microscopic
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| adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的 | |
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shingle
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| n.木瓦板；小招牌(尤指医生或律师挂的营业招牌)；v.用木瓦板盖（屋顶）；把（女子头发）剪短 | |
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obstructed
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| 阻塞( obstruct的过去式和过去分词 )； 堵塞； 阻碍； 阻止 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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sluggishness
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| 不振，萧条，呆滞；惰性；滞性；惯性 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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scattering
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| n.[物]散射；散乱，分散；在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的；分散在不同范围的；广泛扩散的；（选票）数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式)；散布；驱散 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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pebble
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| n.卵石，小圆石 | |
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pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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beacon
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| n.烽火，（警告用的）闪火灯，灯塔 | |
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mingle
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| vt.使混合，使相混；vi.混合起来；相交往 | |
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simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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reaper
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| n.收割者，收割机 | |
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