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Chapter 36
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I have only a week left here. I'm planning to go back to America for Christmas before flying to India, not only because I can't stand the thought of spending Christmas without my family but also because the next eight months of my journey--India and Indonesia--require a complete repacking of gear. Very little of the stuff you need when you are living in Rome is the same stuff you need when you are wandering around India.
And maybe it's in preparation for my trip to India that I decide to spend this last week traveling through Sicily--the most third-world section of Italy, and therefore not a bad place to go if you need to prepare yourself to experience extreme poverty. Or maybe I only want to go to Sicily because of what Goethe said: "Without seeing Sicily one cannot get a clear idea of what Italy is."
But it's not easy getting to or around Sicily. I have to use all my finding-out skills to find a train that runs on Sunday all the way down the coast and then to find the correct ferryboat to Messina (a scary and suspicious Sicilian port town that seems to howl from behind barricaded1 doors, "It's not my fault I'm ugly! I've been earthquaked and carpet-bombed and raped2 by the Mafia, too!") Once I've arrived in Messina, I have to find a bus station (grimy as a smoker's lung) and find the man whose job it is to sit there in the ticket booth, mourning his life, and see if he will please sell me a ticket to the coastal3 town of Taormina. Then I rattle4 along the cliffs and beaches of Sicily's stupendous and hard-edged east coast until I get to Taormina, and then I have to find a taxi and then I have to find a hotel. Then I have to find the right person of whom to ask my favorite question in Italian: "Where is the best food in this town?" In Taormina, that person turns out to be a sleepy policeman. He gives me one of the greatest things anyone can ever give me in life--a tiny piece of paper with the name of an obscure restaurant written on it, a hand-drawn map of how to find the place.
Which turns out to be a little trattoria where the friendly elderly proprietress is getting ready for her evening's customers by standing5 on a table in her stocking feet, trying not to knock over the Christmas creche as she polishes the restaurant windows. I tell her that I don't need to see the menu but could she just bring me the best food possible because this is my first night in Sicily. She rubs her hands together in pleasure and yells something in Sicilian dialect to her even-more-elderly mother in the kitchen, and within the space of twenty minutes I am busily eating the hands-down most amazing meal I've eaten yet in all of Italy. It's pasta, but a shape of pasta I've never before seen--big, fresh, sheets of pasta folded ravioli-like into the shape (if not exactly the size) of the pope's hat, stuffed with a hot,
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收听单词发音

1
barricaded
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设路障于,以障碍物阻塞( barricade的过去式和过去分词 ); 设路障[防御工事]保卫或固守 | |
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2
raped
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v.以暴力夺取,强夺( rape的过去式和过去分词 );强奸 | |
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3
coastal
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adj.海岸的,沿海的,沿岸的 | |
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rattle
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v.飞奔,碰响;激怒;n.碰撞声;拨浪鼓 | |
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standing
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n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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aromatic
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adj.芳香的,有香味的 | |
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crustaceans
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n.甲壳纲动物(如蟹、龙虾)( crustacean的名词复数 ) | |
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octopus
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n.章鱼 | |
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broth
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n.原(汁)汤(鱼汤、肉汤、菜汤等) | |
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stewed
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adj.焦虑不安的,烂醉的v.炖( stew的过去式和过去分词 );煨;思考;担忧 | |
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playwrights
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n.剧作家( playwright的名词复数 ) | |
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antiquity
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n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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rhetoric
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n.修辞学,浮夸之言语 | |
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minor
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adj.较小(少)的,较次要的;n.辅修学科;vi.辅修 | |
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gut
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n.[pl.]胆量;内脏;adj.本能的;vt.取出内脏 | |
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chunks
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厚厚的一块( chunk的名词复数 ); (某物)相当大的数量或部分 | |
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dressing
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n.(食物)调料;包扎伤口的用品,敷料 | |
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specialty
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n.(speciality)特性,特质;专业,专长 | |
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fully
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adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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traumas
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n.心灵创伤( trauma的名词复数 );损伤;痛苦经历;挫折 | |
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interfere
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v.(in)干涉,干预;(with)妨碍,打扰 | |
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possessed
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adj.疯狂的;拥有的,占有的 | |
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rubble
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n.(一堆)碎石,瓦砾 | |
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systematically
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adv.有系统地 | |
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hideous
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adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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batch
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n.一批(组,群);一批生产量 | |
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artistic
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adj.艺术(家)的,美术(家)的;善于艺术创作的 | |
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diplomacy
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n.外交;外交手腕,交际手腕 | |
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inept
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adj.不恰当的,荒谬的,拙劣的 | |
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valiant
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adj.勇敢的,英勇的;n.勇士,勇敢的人 | |
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inefficient
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adj.效率低的,无效的 | |
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corruption
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n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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corrupted
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(使)败坏( corrupt的过去式和过去分词 ); (使)腐化; 引起(计算机文件等的)错误; 破坏 | |
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unstable
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adj.不稳定的,易变的 | |
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hideously
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adv.可怕地,非常讨厌地 | |
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incompetent
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adj.无能力的,不能胜任的 | |
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tyrants
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专制统治者( tyrant的名词复数 ); 暴君似的人; (古希腊的)僭主; 严酷的事物 | |
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bureaucrats
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n.官僚( bureaucrat的名词复数 );官僚主义;官僚主义者;官僚语言 | |
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disorder
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n.紊乱,混乱;骚动,骚乱;疾病,失调 | |
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excellence
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n.优秀,杰出,(pl.)优点,美德 | |
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enjoyment
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n.乐趣;享有;享用 | |
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flaking
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刨成片,压成片; 盘网 | |
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brotherhood
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n.兄弟般的关系,手中情谊 | |
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monks
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n.修道士,僧侣( monk的名词复数 ) | |
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conspiracy
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n.阴谋,密谋,共谋 | |
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epically
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adv.史诗式地,宏伟地 | |
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appreciation
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n.评价;欣赏;感谢;领会,理解;价格上涨 | |
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instinctively
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adv.本能地 | |
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decided
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adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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glimmer
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v.发出闪烁的微光;n.微光,微弱的闪光 | |
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Chapter 35
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Chapter 37
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