Suppose the great Hydrographer of the Admiralty himself can’t describe it, who surveyed the place; suppose Mr. Fellowes, who discovered it afterwards — suppose, I say, Sir John Fellowes, Knt., can’t do it (and I defy any man of imagination to got an impression of Telmessus from his book)— can you, vain man, hope to try? The effect of the artist, as I take it, ought to be, to produce upon his hearer’s mind, by his art, an effect something similar to that produced on his own by the sight of the natural object. Only music, or the best poetry, can do this. Keats’s “Ode to the Grecian Urn10” is the best description I know of that sweet old silent ruin of Telmessus. After you have once seen it, the remembrance remains11 with you, like a tune12 from Mozart, which he seems to have caught out of heaven, and which rings sweet harmony in your ears for ever after! It’s a benefit for all after life! You have but to shut your eyes, and think, and recall it, and the delightful13 vision comes smiling back, to your order! — the divine air — the delicious little pageant14, which nature set before you on this lucky day.
Here is the entry made in the note-book on the eventful day:— “In the morning steamed into the bay of Glaucus — landed at Makri — cheerful old desolate15 village — theatre by the beautiful sea-shore — great fertility, oleanders — a palm-tree in the midst of the village, spreading out like a Sultan’s aigrette — sculptured caverns16, or tombs, up the mountain — camels over the bridge.”
Perhaps it is best for a man of fancy to make his own landscape out of these materials: to group the couched camels under the plane-trees; the little crowd of wandering ragged17 heathens come down to the calm water, to behold18 the nearing steamer; to fancy a mountain, in the sides of which some scores of tombs are rudely carved; pillars and porticos, and Doric entablatures. But it is of the little theatre that he must make the most beautiful picture — a charming little place of festival, lying out on the shore, and looking over the sweet bay and the swelling purple islands. No theatre-goer ever looked out on a fairer scene. It encourages poetry, idleness, delicious sensual reverie. O Jones! friend of my heart! would you not like to be a white-robed Greek, lolling languidly, on the cool benches here, and pouring compliments (in the Ionic dialect) into the rosy ears of Neaera? Instead of Jones, your name should be Ionides; instead of a silk hat, you should wear a chaplet of roses in your hair: you would not listen to the choruses they were singing on the stage, for the voice of the fair one would be whispering a rendezvous19 for the mesonuktiais horais, and my Ionides would have no ear for aught beside. Yonder, in the mountain, they would carve a Doric cave temple, to receive your urn when all was done; and you would be accompanied thither20 by a dirge21 of the surviving Ionidae. The caves of the dead are empty now, however, and their place knows them not any more among the festal haunts of the living. But, by way of supplying the choric melodies sung here in old time, one of our companions mounted on the scene and spouted22,
“My name is Norval.”
On the same day we lay to for a while at another ruined theatre, that of Antiphilos. The Oxford23 men, fresh with recollections of the little-go, bounded away up the hill on which it lies to the ruin, measured the steps of the theatre, and calculated the width of the scene; while others, less active, watched them with telescopes from the ship’s sides, as they plunged24 in and out of the stones and hollows.
Two days after the scene was quite changed. We were out of sight of the classical country, and lay in St. George’s Bay, behind a huge mountain, upon which St. George fought the dragon, and rescued the lovely Lady Sabra, the King of Babylon’s daughter. The Turkish fleet was lying about us, commanded by that Halil Pasha whose two children the two last Sultans murdered. The crimson25 flag, with the star and crescent, floated at the stern of his ship. Our diplomatist put on his uniform and cordons26, and paid his Excellency a visit. He spoke27 in rapture28, when he returned, of the beauty and order of the ship, and the urbanity of the infidel Admiral. He sent us bottles of ancient Cyprus wine to drink: and the captain of Her Majesty29’s ship “Trump,” alongside which we were lying, confirmed that good opinion of the Capitan Pasha which the reception of the above present led us to entertain, by relating many instances of his friendliness30 and hospitalities. Captain G-said the Turkish ships were as well manned, as well kept, and as well manoeuvred, as any vessels31 in any service; and intimated a desire to command a Turkish seventy-four, and a perfect willingness to fight her against a French ship of the same size. But I heartily33 trust he will neither embrace the Mahometan opinions, nor be called upon to engage any seventy-four whatever. If he do, let us hope he will have his own men to fight with. If the crew of the “Trump” were all like the crew of the captain’s boat, they need fear no two hundred and fifty men out of any country, with any Joinville at their head. We were carried on shore by this boat. For two years, during which the “Trump” had been lying off Beyrout, none of the men but these eight had ever set foot on shore. Mustn’t it be a happy life? We were landed at the busy quay34 of Beyrout, flanked by the castle that the fighting old commodore half battered35 down.
Along the Beyrout quays36 civilisation37 flourishes under the flags of the consuls38, which are streaming out over the yellow buildings in the clear air. Hither she brings from England her produce of marine-stores and woollens, her crockeries, her portable soups, and her bitter ale. Hither she has brought politeness, and the last modes from Paris. They were exhibited in the person of a pretty lady, superintending the great French store, and who, seeing a stranger sketching40 on the quay, sent forward a man with a chair to accommodate that artist, and greeted him with a bow and a smile, such as only can be found in France. Then she fell to talking with a young French officer with a beard, who was greatly smitten41 with her. They were making love just as they do on the Boulevard. An Arab porter left his bales, and the camel he was unloading, to come and look at the sketch39. Two stumpy flat-faced Turkish soldiers, in red caps and white undresses, peered over the paper. A noble little Lebanonian girl, with a deep yellow face, and curly dun-coloured hair, and a blue tattooed42 chin, and for all clothing a little ragged shift of blue cloth, stood by like a little statue, holding her urn, and stared with wondering brown eyes. How magnificently blue the water was! — how bright the flags and buildings as they shone above it, and the lines of the rigging tossing in the bay! The white crests43 of the blue waves jumped and sparkled like quicksilver; the shadows were as broad and cool as the lights were brilliant and rosy; the battered old towers of the commodore looked quite cheerful in the delicious atmosphere; and the mountains beyond were of an amethyst44 colour. The French officer and the lady went on chattering45 quite happily about love, the last new bonnet46, or the battle of Isly, or the “Juif Errant.” How neatly47 her gown and sleeves fitted her pretty little person! We had not seen a woman for a month, except honest Mrs. Flanigan, the stewardess48, and the ladies of our party, and the tips of the noses of the Constantinople beauties as they passed by leering from their yakmacs, waddling49 and plapping in their odious50 yellow papooshes.
And this day is to be marked with a second white stone, for having given the lucky writer of the present, occasion to behold a second beauty. This was a native Syrian damsel, who bore the sweet name of Mariam. So it was she stood as two of us (I mention the number for fear of scandal) took her picture.
So it was that the good-natured black cook looked behind her young mistress, with a benevolent51 grin, that only the admirable Leslie could paint.
Mariam was the sister of the young guide whom we hired to show us through the town, and to let us be cheated in the purchase of gilt52 scarfs and handkerchiefs, which strangers think proper to buy. And before the following authentic53 drawing could be made, many were the stratagems54 the wily artists were obliged to employ, to subdue55 the shyness of the little Mariam. In the first place, she would stand behind the door (from which in the darkness her beautiful black eyes gleamed out like penny tapers); nor could the entreaties56 of her brother and mamma bring her from that hiding-place. In order to conciliate the latter, we began by making a picture of her too — that is, not of her, who was an enormous old fat woman in yellow, quivering all over with strings57 of pearls, and necklaces of sequins, and other ornaments58, the which descended59 from her neck, and down her ample stomacher: we did not depict60 that big old woman, who would have been frightened at an accurate representation of her own enormity; but an ideal being, all grace and beauty, dressed in her costume, and still simpering before me in my sketch-book like a lady in a book of fashions.
This portrait was shown to the old woman, who handed it over to the black cook, who, grinning, carried it to little Mariam — and the result was, that the young creature stepped forward, and submitted; and has come over to Europe as you see. [illustration]
A very snug61 and happy family did this of Mariam’s appear to be. If you could judge by all the laughter and giggling62, by the splendour of the women’s attire63, by the neatness of the little house, prettily64 decorated with arabesque65 paintings, neat mats, and gay carpets, they were a family well to do in the Beyrout world, and lived with as much comfort as any Europeans. They had one book; and, on the wall of the principal apartment, a black picture of the Virgin66, whose name is borne by pretty Mariam.
The camels and the soldiers, the bazaars67 and khans, the fountains and awnings69, which chequer, with such delightful variety of light and shade, the alleys70 and markets of an Oriental town, are to be seen in Beyrout in perfection; and an artist might here employ himself for months with advantage and pleasure. A new costume was here added to the motley and picturesque71 assembly of dresses. This was the dress of the blue-veiled women from the Lebanon, stalking solemnly through the markets, with huge horns, near a yard high, on their foreheads. For thousands of years, since the time the Hebrew prophets wrote, these horns have so been exalted72 in the Lebanon.
At night Captain Lewis gave a splendid ball and supper to the “Trump.” We had the “Trump’s” band to perform the music; and a grand sight it was to see the captain himself enthusiastically leading on the drum. Blue lights and rockets were burned from the yards of our ship; which festive73 signals were answered presently from the “Trump,” and from another English vessel32 in the harbour.
They must have struck the Capitan Pasha with wonder, for he sent his secretary on board of us to inquire what the fireworks meant. And the worthy74 Turk had scarcely put his foot on the deck, when he found himself seized round the waist by one of the “Trump’s” officers, and whirling round the deck in a waltz, to his own amazement75, and the huge delight of the company. His face of wonder and gravity, as he went on twirling, could not have been exceeded by that of a dancing dervish at Scutari; and the manner in which he managed to enjamber the waltz excited universal applause.
I forgot whether he accommodated himself to European ways so much further as to drink champagne76 at supper-time; to say that he did would be telling tales out of school, and might interfere77 with the future advancement78 of that jolly dancing Turk.
We made acquaintance with another of the Sultan’s subjects, who, I fear, will have occasion to doubt of the honour of the English nation, after the foul79 treachery with which he was treated.
Among the occupiers of the little bazaar68 matchboxes, vendors80 of embroidered81 handkerchiefs and other articles of showy Eastern haberdashery, was a good-looking neat young fellow, who spoke English very fluently, and was particularly attentive82 to all the passengers on board our ship. This gentleman was not only a pocket-handkerchief merchant in the bazaar, but earned a further livelihood83 by letting out mules84 and donkeys; and he kept a small lodging-house, or inn, for travellers, as we were informed.
No wonder he spoke good English, and was exceedingly polite and well-bred; for the worthy man had passed some time in England, and in the best society too. That humble85 haberdasher at Beyrout had been a lion here, at the very best houses of the great people, and had actually made his appearance at Windsor, where he was received as a Syrian Prince, and treated with great hospitality by Royalty86 itself.
I don’t know what waggish87 propensity88 moved one of the officers of the “Trump” to say that there was an equerry of His Royal Highness the Prince on board, and to point me out as the dignified89 personage in question. So the Syrian Prince was introduced to the Royal equerry, and a great many compliments passed between us. I even had the audacity90 to state that on my very last interview with my Royal master, His Royal Highness had said, “Colonel Titmarsh, when you go to Beyrout, you will make special inquiries91 regarding my interesting friend Cogia Hassan.”
Poor Cogia Hassan (I forget whether that was his name, but it is as good as another) was overpowered with this Royal message; and we had an intimate conversation together, at which the waggish officer of the “Trump” assisted with the greatest glee.
But see the consequences of deceit! The next day, as we were getting under way, who should come on board but my friend the Syrian Prince, most eager for a last interview with the Windsor equerry; and he begged me to carry his protestations of unalterable fidelity92 to the gracious consort93 of Her Majesty. Nor was this all. Cogia Hassan actually produced a great box of sweetmeats, of which he begged my Excellency to accept, and a little figure of a doll dressed in the costume of Lebanon. Then the punishment of imposture94 began to be felt severely95 by me. How to accept the poor devil’s sweetmeats? How to refuse them? And as we know that one fib leads to another, so I was obliged to support the first falsehood by another; and putting on a dignified air —“Cogia Hassan,” says I, “I am surprised you don’t know the habits of the British Court better, and are not aware that our gracious master solemnly forbids his servants to accept any sort of backsheesh upon our travels.”
So Prince Cogia Hassan went over the side with his chest of sweetmeats, but insisted on leaving the doll, which may be worth twopence-halfpenny; of which, and of the costume of the women of Lebanon, the following is an accurate likeness:-
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1
swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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minaret
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| n.（回教寺院的）尖塔 | |
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nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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urn
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| n.（有座脚的）瓮；坟墓；骨灰瓮 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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tune
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| n.调子；和谐，协调；v.调音，调节，调整 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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pageant
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| n.壮观的游行；露天历史剧 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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caverns
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| 大山洞，大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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rendezvous
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| n.约会，约会地点，汇合点；vi.汇合，集合；vt.使汇合，使在汇合地点相遇 | |
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thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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dirge
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| n.哀乐，挽歌，庄重悲哀的乐曲 | |
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spouted
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| adj.装有嘴的v.（指液体）喷出( spout的过去式和过去分词 )；滔滔不绝地讲；喋喋不休地说；喷水 | |
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Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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cordons
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| n.警戒线，警戒圈( cordon的名词复数 ) | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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rapture
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| n.狂喜；全神贯注；着迷；v.使狂喜 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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friendliness
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| n.友谊，亲切，亲密 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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quays
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| 码头( quay的名词复数 ) | |
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civilisation
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| n.文明，文化，开化，教化 | |
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consuls
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| 领事( consul的名词复数 )； （古罗马共和国时期）执政官 （古罗马共和国及其军队的最高首长，同时共有两位，每年选举一次） | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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sketching
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| n.草图 | |
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smitten
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| 猛打，重击，打击( smite的过去分词 ) | |
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tattooed
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| v.刺青，文身( tattoo的过去式和过去分词 )；连续有节奏地敲击；作连续有节奏的敲击 | |
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crests
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| v.到达山顶（或浪峰）( crest的第三人称单数 )；到达洪峰，达到顶点 | |
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amethyst
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| n.紫水晶 | |
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chattering
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| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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bonnet
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| n.无边女帽；童帽 | |
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neatly
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| adv.整洁地，干净地，灵巧地，熟练地 | |
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stewardess
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| n.空中小姐，女乘务员 | |
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waddling
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| v.（像鸭子一样）摇摇摆摆地走( waddle的现在分词 ) | |
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odious
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| adj.可憎的，讨厌的 | |
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benevolent
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| adj.仁慈的，乐善好施的 | |
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gilt
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| adj.镀金的；n.金边证券 | |
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authentic
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| a.真的，真正的；可靠的，可信的，有根据的 | |
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stratagems
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| n.诡计，计谋( stratagem的名词复数 )；花招 | |
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subdue
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| vt.制服，使顺从，征服；抑制，克制 | |
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entreaties
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| n.恳求，乞求( entreaty的名词复数 ) | |
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strings
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| n.弦 | |
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ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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depict
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| vt.描画，描绘；描写，描述 | |
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snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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giggling
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| v.咯咯地笑( giggle的现在分词 ) | |
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attire
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| v.穿衣，装扮[同]array；n.衣着；盛装 | |
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prettily
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| adv.优美地；可爱地 | |
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arabesque
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| n.阿拉伯式花饰；adj.阿拉伯式图案的 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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awnings
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| 篷帐布 | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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exalted
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| adj.(地位等)高的，崇高的；尊贵的，高尚的 | |
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festive
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| adj.欢宴的，节日的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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amazement
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| n.惊奇，惊讶 | |
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champagne
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| n.香槟酒；微黄色 | |
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interfere
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| v.(in)干涉，干预；(with)妨碍，打扰 | |
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advancement
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| n.前进，促进，提升 | |
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foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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vendors
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| n.摊贩( vendor的名词复数 )；小贩；（房屋等的）卖主；卖方 | |
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embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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attentive
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| adj.注意的，专心的；关心(别人)的，殷勤的 | |
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livelihood
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| n.生计，谋生之道 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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humble
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| adj.谦卑的，恭顺的；地位低下的；v.降低，贬低 | |
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royalty
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| n.皇家，皇族 | |
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waggish
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| adj.诙谐的，滑稽的 | |
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propensity
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| n.倾向；习性 | |
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dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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audacity
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| n.大胆，卤莽，无礼 | |
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inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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fidelity
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| n.忠诚，忠实；精确 | |
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consort
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| v.相伴；结交 | |
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imposture
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| n.冒名顶替，欺骗 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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